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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/26/17 in all areas

  1. discussion Brought this home today, it's the reason for selling the hardtop. It's a 68 Plymouth Valiant, has a 'leaning tower of power' 225, auto, has power steer, 13" wheels hah, drums all round. Most of the paint is original, it has a couple of bits where it's been repaired that need touching up. I'll probably get it repainted in the same colour at some point. It belonged to a mate of mine that died in 2015. It's a bit special to me because of that, I went with him to have a look at it, had one of the sketchiest rides I've ever experienced when we went for a drive after he got out of hospital and was still on something. He always wanted to put a V8 etc in it but he ran out of time. His family kept it since but decided to sell it, and his mum rang me to give me first option on buying it. They are keen to see it get an 8 so it will get the turbo 318, 727 and 9" I was going to put in the hardtop. I'll drive it for a while till I've got everything ready then bolt it all in. Obviously this one will need a brake upgrade as well and I'll put some 15" wheels of some sort on it
    19 points
  2. I took some quick shots this morning before work just in case anyone crashed into it
    7 points
  3. Teretonga stalwart Colin Dawson sadly died this weekend of a heart attack. He was the owner of Riverside Rentals and the pilot of a ridiculous fast V8 powered Gen. I Rx7 that I admired for many years. More recently the motor from the 7 was put into his Gen. I Chevrolet Camaro RIP Colin. You provided me personally many hours of entertainment as well as countless others, I'm sure.
    6 points
  4. I thought i would have this going by Christmas but did absolutely nothing over the holiday period. Have got back into the swing of things now with the engine and gearbox back in place Ive removed the severely damaged dash in favour of one with only one crack in it, still keen to have that repaired at some point however ill leave it for now I have undertaken most of the wiring, this has taken me a bit longer than expected as ive tried to use the 1geu engine loom as a kind of adapter plug to the 2jzge engine loom plugs so have been slowly identifying each wire, a great tip i discovered regarding a ma61 ecu which turned out to be same on my 1geu ecu is if you pop the cover off the board is actually marked with the ecu pin out with labels that are relevant to the wilbo666 jza80 2jzge wiring diagrams, this drastically sped the process up as i was able to eliminate everything i didnt need from the plugs. You will see I've taken apart way more of the dash than i would need to, this was due to literally every piece of plastic being cracked from mistreatment, most of it i have undamaged replacements for but i feel there will be a few bits ill need to pickup or try repair in the mean time. I also noticed all of the plastic pipes for the heater have been removed and outlets taped up, not too sure what this is about but i have a spare heater and ac unit in stock so ill look at checking these out and restoring that! I thought i had struck gold with some monsoon sheilds listed on yahoo auctions japan as gx61 that were chaser specific with a small decal printed on them and came with all the clips and even the bonnet emblem which i was missing and the avante and chaser boot badges However it appears they were for a gx71 hardtop Luckily i was able to pass them on to someone locally who could use them and still use the emblem for the bonnet and the boot badges so not a complete loss Next mission has been the front bumper support. The face lift iron was rusted very badly but upon inspection the pre-face lift has the same core with a few additions of indicator brackets and a top piece spot welded on. These bits aren't too badly rusted on the toasted FL support so I've drilled the spot welds and removed them to weld on my PFL support which actually seems to be pretty good condition. Whilst all of this is going on ill fix the number plate holder tabs that always break off on these too Ill get a friend to weld this up today and then strip it all back and treat rust before painting in a flat black Ive just got the mx83 alloy radiator to mount and plumb in the engine bay, connect the electric fans, finish wiring behind glove box, reinstate dash, finish aligning headlights and fit the facelift front bumper and then off to toyota festival at hampton downs on april the 1st hopefully!
    6 points
  5. Turbo pipework all welded ready to go.
    6 points
  6. Also, look how tiny the carb is
    5 points
  7. one of the reasons i put 17s on it was so i could run bigger brakes. i had to make some brackets (well, Neil at Whiters made them for me because he's a super GC) to get them to fit and it all went together perfectly. they are a Yellow Speed kit designed for a V spec R33 GTR - 330 dia x 32 thick with a 6 piston caliper. they arent bedded in properly yet but sweet baby jebus do they stop you in a hurry. i used a G meter to calibrate the difference between before and after and the calculations came out at 2 billion percent better. pictures of things. 2017-02-25_05-17-32 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-02-25_04-36-53 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-02-25_04-36-41 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-02-25_04-36-28 by sheepers, on Flickr
    5 points
  8. Done a little bit more. Tried the x-flow underneath but there wasn't really enough room. Move it back to here and looks pretty good. Can be dropped out from here as well. Resonators go somewhere around here. Ran out of stuff to do on the exhaust since I don't have the pipe or flanges yet, so went and filled in some more holes in the floor.
    4 points
  9. Got my home boi home and onto putting it back together. Kayne has done an awesome job, so many details have been put into the car its becoming a pleasure to put back together. My personal favorite is the color between dash pad and windscreen being a paint match to what was factory tan instead of the colour of the car.
    4 points
  10. Markku came over here, and told me off for not working on this enough, so I did a little more this weekend. I mounted the fuel tank, its just a plastic ride on mower one, I may upgrade this in the future as its not very industrial. I also modified the original coil bracket to fit the roll bar, as its the same size as the motorbikes frame. I then mounted the radiator, its basically sideways to the air flow, but seemed to fit there best. I will make up a big alloy scoop to whack air through it. Then I made up a flange, and a mount, and finished off the exhaust. I will weld a couple of tabs to it, and use springs to hold it onto the support. Next on the list is the intake/plenum, then all I need is to sort plumbing and wiring, and I can run the engine. One thing I do need is an oil cooler to suit this engine, as I didn't get one with the motor (GPX750, around 86-89) so if anyone knows of one kicking around Regards, VG.
    4 points
  11. No not entirely correct. That wont have enough power to run a pump. Your best bet will be to get a test light and check the wiring under that dash by the Ignition switch. OR Wire up a relay to the Ignition coil wire as per this:
    4 points
  12. After much experimentation we've worked out how to laser etch into concrete pavers....much easier than sand blasting! We've got interest from some town planners up north, really need to get this in front of planners in Christchurch for their urban rebuild.
    4 points
  13. Are the a-25-2's sand tyres, fulfil all your middle eastern sand dune hill climb dreams
    3 points
  14. white wire on the coil + is 12v unfused ignition feed. put an in-line fuse holder from there to the pump. then earth the pump. simple, easy to do. no need for a relay in a viva. cheers.
    3 points
  15. Looks like i will have an awful new car to disgust you all with for this event. Even more oldschool than the golf! Im excited.
    3 points
  16. 3 points
  17. and also i forgot about this. here is some footage of the drag day that was shown on TV. we're the first feature in the program. i talk and look stupid. which is pretty much standard for me. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pt5wLpzjCJQ
    3 points
  18. ### Due to Photobucket being a pack of complete fuckwits, I've removed all the pic links to shorten Fred up a bit. ### So I got side tracked once again, with the offer of a go kart frame. I made it longer so myself and the GPX750 motor will fit in it. I've been fiddling with it on and off for a few months now. Any ways, pretty basic business, just the old road bike powered go kart lark. Annnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnnd that's about where i'm up to. Regards, VG.
    2 points
  19. I'll try and find a photo of my old Avenger. Was super mint white with tan vinyl roof. Super lush spec sheepskins etc. I did a recy run to St Bathan's today. Half the loop road is gravel but do able. I also did the Ida Valley and it's a great empty road and a shortcut to Ranfurly. St Bathan's is worth the detour. They also have some of the best DB posters I have ever seen. And a few bottles of Emersons wanker beer for those that don't do real beer. im excited.
    2 points
  20. Also just read that the surface left can be quite porus because of how it so selectively removes the oxide. So there's lots of surface area So it will rust fast.
    2 points
  21. Get A-019 tyres plz Semislick spec
    2 points
  22. Things wernt begin captive in the rear since I swapped out the diff so nabbed the shocks to match top set had been in it since I bought it & had never been an issue til now shorter (proper) shock on the bottom i out of an 80's Chrysler Avenger but noticeably an improvement straight away also nah could not be arsed tidying them up, she'll be right : or I'll buy actual new shocks next time
    2 points
  23. One we spotted in Miami few yeas back. Full hydro set up
    2 points
  24. I'm planning to lower the tone a whole lot with the avenger if i can get some niggly bits & a w.o.f sorted. Otherwise I'll just have to take the rolling roadblock....... again
    2 points
  25. This car is still impossible to take photos of that accurately show the colour but this vid is probably the best so far... Out in the sun...
    2 points
  26. Thought I'd have a crack at chucking the new springs in. Never done any suspension work before so playing it by ear. Pulled bump stop plate out inside guard and removed the shock. Things were really covered in crap, looked like decades of grease and dust had accumulated, and everything was pretty much seized when I had dug it out to get a spanner on it - one lower bolt sheared off the shock, then when I undid top bolts the thing didn't move upwards like I expected, guess shocks were well overdue for replacement... Spring pulled out no bother (scored set of compressors for $30) and rubber insulator on top looks ok... And I pulled the upper control arm out, this is after a clean, it was covered in around 10mm of dust coloured muck... And the spindle had issues with the o-rings, one end had bulged out, while the other had a section missing. This would explain why previous attempts at lubing had just pumped grease under the guard... And old vs new. new ones are Lovells lows, matching them with KYB shocks... I was hoping to just chuck the spring in and move onto replacing the rubber suspension bushes, but cleaning the pivot revealed some wear (potentially the source of my slight but annoying Falcon squeak) so looked at replacements... Upper ball joints were equally scruffy, so ordered new ones of those too. Under the crud in this pic is the lower ball joint, I suspect these are riveted in rather than bolted so will have to drill them out after I've cleaned up. The top joint resisted all my attempts at getting it out till I shot into supercheap and grabbed a $20 separator tool... and naturally the tie rod rubbers were also shagged... I looked at replacing the rubber on these but seems tie rod comes as a complete unit, so - have ordered: * new upper control arm pivot bushes * upper and lower ball joints * and inner and outer tie rod ends. More costs I hadn't intended, but might as well do it now...
    2 points
  27. Sweet, I'll have a poke around and If it dosent improve I'll kit my spare with its bits
    2 points
  28. So its had about a week, I've scraped off the anodes a few times since the last fluid change. I think we can safely say this works good. Because I'm cheap I'm tempted not to use a sealer on the tank, I think as long as it is full of fuel/ has a functioning fuel cap (not a emergency style one like it had) it should be ok? What are your thoughts? You can see the high tide mark there, I might flip the tank or something to try get that last bit out. I suspect if I was more careful I could strain and re use the solution.
    1 point
  29. your ignition counts as a cut-off switch, so yea anything off that is pretty much fine
    1 point
  30. Like you I usually use the Kyteler/Hemi method which works 95% of the time - when something being a bit of a cunt (usually the jag where the rear pipes has lots of ups and down or if a systems been completely drained) and still has a small amount of air somewhere in the system bleed as per above and then go around each corner again this time get someone to pump the brake pedal a few times and then hold it down while you crack open your bleed nipple and then tighten it before they release then pedal you should only need to do this once or twice at each corner. This pressurizes the brake fluid and makes the air into larger bubbles rather than lots of tiny ones which sometimes can't be seen you should get a few bubbles at the affected corners (no way of knowing which ones they are so do them all).
    1 point
  31. Trailer my minor and claim it's a barn find, there's enough dust on it. Nah mate a true survivor car, all factory options, untouched, been tucked away since the spring of 72
    1 point
  32. Break out your best walk socks and home spun jumpers Steam and Vintage Country Festival 2017 Glenbrook Vintage Railway, Glenbrook Station Rd, Glenbrook, Auckland Saturday 25 February 2017 9:00am and Sunday 26 February 2017 9:00am Admission to event - adult: $10.00 Admission to event - child under 14 year free: $0.00 Train ride - adult: $20.00 Train ride - child (4 to 14 years) - under 4 years free: $10.00 Train ride - Family (2 adults & up to 4 children): $55.00 Door Sales Only Experience the charm of earlier times, when the Glenbrook Vintage Railway, in conjunction with the Franklin Vintage Machinery Club, stage their Steam and Vintage Country Festival 2017 at the Glenbrook Vintage Railway’s Glenbrook Station near Waiuku, on Saturday 25th and Sunday 26th February 2017. See Clydesdale horses ploughing, marvel at ancient steam traction engines, witness vintage tractors and machinery carrying out ploughing, reaping and binding, threshing and baling, take a 15km ride on a genuine steam train, view steam locomotives from around the country, sail on the lake in a classic steamboat, experience the silent power of steam cars, be fascinated by the sight and sound of vintage engines operating, dance to Big Band music, watch rare vintage aircraft perform overhead, cuddle farm animals, enjoy a range of refreshments and children’s activities, and much, much more! A truly informative and fun event for the whole family, not to be missed! The Steam and Vintage Country Festival is held only once every 4 years. Entry has been kept affordable at $10 for adults, with all accompanied children under 14years free. Parking is also free. Steam train and other rides are optional and are not included in the entry fee. Follow the Drury-Waiuku or Pukekohe-Waiuku route, and turn into Glenbrook Station Rd (Signposted) http://www.eventfinda.co.nz/2017/steam-and-vintage-country-festival-2017/auckland/glenbrook Saw a sign for this the other day, sounds like a good day out for you barries
    1 point
  33. If you do it anything like me, you might as well just let it run out on the floor as that's where most of it will end up when the house flips out of the container or I knock it over.
    1 point
  34. I didn't think mine leaked oil until I noted it had no oil. Normal service then resumed. Good to see the Oldschool stand is close to the edge so we can bugger off before the prescribed 3pm official. I say everyone bring a deck chair and pretend we're the Jowett club or something Barryish, and then advertise doing hourly displays on how to use your Makita to cut springs.
    1 point
  35. It's all done by the province, there really isn't any federal governing body for vehicles outside of aircraft. You'd be amazed at what passes for "safe" here. My friend drives a 95 Impreza wagon that is a complete mess of random subaru parts and his rear strut towers look like this: And the car is still road legal, somehow. Here in Alberta, we have very very limited safety and emission enforcement. I can get a technician to sign off a piece of paper saying he deems the car to be road worthy and I can get it insured. It's a bit of a joke. Back in Ontario where I'm originally from, they are super super strict on emissions and safety. You have to go for yearly safety inspections to get your licence plates renewed and every 2 years for vehicles '87 or newer needs to get emissions tests. I've left some of the rack tracks back home where friends of mine have full race cars that get trailered to and from the track and they have been given fines for not complying with emissions on their race vehicles, even though if the vehicle is used on private property (such as at a race track), it does not need to meet emission standards. I love Lake Louise, it's only about an hour and a half away from my house. I actually picked the car up from a kid in Canmore just outside of Banff. Out that way there's not a whole lot of Salt being used on the road, but here in Calgary they use a ton of salt on the road when it gets near freezing. I'm originally from Toronto and out there if they mention the word "snow" they will start salting the roads even before it snows. My Subaru's floor pans rusted out completely from the road salt out there.
    1 point
  36. Finished this patch Made a start on the exhaust and realised I have a problem with it fitting between the crossmembers. It's going to have to be made of lots of different sections with a heap of flanges, otherwise it won't be able to be removed or fitted. It's fairly tight just to get the x-flow bit in. Might be better if I put the x-flow underneath, so then that whole section to the headers can be one piece and just drop straight down to remove. Only problem with doing that will make the exhaust sit very close to the ground, but should be fine as it won't be as low as the running boards. Will run a resonator on either side in the middle and hopefully those sections can be slid out the back if there's a flange just before the diff kick-up.
    1 point
  37. Dose it have some kind of caulking compound in there to?
    1 point
  38. For those interested, this is an EA71 (1600cc) with no topside stuff attached. The carbs got a little freshen up, I figure I'm more likely to work on the rest of it if its running OK. Will try start chipping away at a bit more maybe.
    1 point
  39. sorry it's a shitter but the lights blew on that side of the garage and it was late. Is wet also. Gonna drive to work tomorrow. Lights came right, did hoon a fuse so easy fix. practically everything it had, has been re-attached, but plenty of tidying inside to do. liking the direction it's going in. The rubber sample will work, just has less contact area for glue but seems to sit in the grooves better. Likely have 13m of that tomorrow to slug in this weekend. Is not the same profile as the boot so have chucked the old skode one back in for now.
    1 point
  40. If you want to get a few more years out of it before a weldathon then that would work IMHO, especially if it is kept out of the weather most of the time.
    1 point
  41. Picked up the side covers, look bloody great. Going to leave them raw.
    1 point
  42. For those of you that are going to Nats, this will be our last meet before Nats. and at Nats, there will be Rocker Cover racing. So bring your rocker cover racer and we can do a Test and Tune down the ramp from upstairs Amd if you're not going to nats and want to build one any way get amongst.
    1 point
  43. Getting through the number of patch panels. Most of the pictured repairs are now finished but just realised i didn't take photos of the finished patch. I decided to TIG all the repairs where the panel is a butt joint and im getting far better results then the previous MIG repairs i've done
    1 point
  44. Its been a busy week and Kayne sent me this. Im fizzing hard to have a look and the car comes home next week to be put back together.
    1 point
  45. Picked up the rims now and starting to plan out just how crazy I want to get with the chassis. Pinning over Ali drop beam frontends but we will see. Second wagon pan rocking up soon too just to double my work load She just wants me to hurry up and fix her wagon Plans for the seat
    1 point
  46. Picked these up today Picking these up Monday And potentially a second wagon, will build up both and sell one to try and cover some of the cost of the builds. Started planning the chassis and seat, hoping to have one completed for the Nostalgia Drags here in Perth this April
    1 point
  47. Seems this discussion thread hasn't been active for a while but just wanted to say it was awesome to see your car go up the hill at leadfoot and thank you for taking the time to meet and chat with my mates and I in the pits between runs. The atmosphere at the event was fantastic and they way the drivers, mechanics and team members welcomed the spectators in and around the pits was just fantastic.
    1 point
  48. All un-needed holes are now filled! And is now covered in etch-primer.
    1 point
  49. After removing the engine i saw the brake and clutch master cylinder must have been leaking at some point and had stripped the paint below so decided it was a good opportunity to tidy that up and paint the rest as well. Happy not to find any rust under the wiper cowl and around the front door jambs where they usually corrode. The surface rust was all stripped back and treated with 2 coats of Brunox and then primer layered on the areas where we had gone back to bare metal. next the black base coat was applied Now this is where the party starts. Two layers of clear were applied with Lil Daddy Roth's 'Trippin crystal Beth' metal flake mixed through Finally four coats of clear layered on top to effectively sink the flake to give a smooth finish. I couldnt be happier with the end result, the work was done by a friend as a labour swap in exchange for some building work so hasnt cost me a dime. The flake changes in the sunlight as seen in the video in the post above -sorry im unsure how to embed an instagram video- from green to blue and also purple. The inspiration came from this model which ive seen online, Im thinking i may paint the roof pad to match and get rid of the rising sun which the seller had told me was a sticker which upon further inspection is painted Who knows, maybe the entire car will end up this colour
    1 point
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