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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/25/17 in all areas

  1. I took some quick shots this morning before work just in case anyone crashed into it
    13 points
  2. one of the reasons i put 17s on it was so i could run bigger brakes. i had to make some brackets (well, Neil at Whiters made them for me because he's a super GC) to get them to fit and it all went together perfectly. they are a Yellow Speed kit designed for a V spec R33 GTR - 330 dia x 32 thick with a 6 piston caliper. they arent bedded in properly yet but sweet baby jebus do they stop you in a hurry. i used a G meter to calibrate the difference between before and after and the calculations came out at 2 billion percent better. pictures of things. 2017-02-25_05-17-32 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-02-25_04-36-53 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-02-25_04-36-41 by sheepers, on Flickr 2017-02-25_04-36-28 by sheepers, on Flickr
    12 points
  3. discussion Brought this home today, it's the reason for selling the hardtop. It's a 68 Plymouth Valiant, has a 'leaning tower of power' 225, auto, has power steer, 13" wheels hah, drums all round. Most of the paint is original, it has a couple of bits where it's been repaired that need touching up. I'll probably get it repainted in the same colour at some point. It belonged to a mate of mine that died in 2015. It's a bit special to me because of that, I went with him to have a look at it, had one of the sketchiest rides I've ever experienced when we went for a drive after he got out of hospital and was still on something. He always wanted to put a V8 etc in it but he ran out of time. His family kept it since but decided to sell it, and his mum rang me to give me first option on buying it. They are keen to see it get an 8 so it will get the turbo 318, 727 and 9" I was going to put in the hardtop. I'll drive it for a while till I've got everything ready then bolt it all in. Obviously this one will need a brake upgrade as well and I'll put some 15" wheels of some sort on it
    6 points
  4. Thought I'd have a crack at chucking the new springs in. Never done any suspension work before so playing it by ear. Pulled bump stop plate out inside guard and removed the shock. Things were really covered in crap, looked like decades of grease and dust had accumulated, and everything was pretty much seized when I had dug it out to get a spanner on it - one lower bolt sheared off the shock, then when I undid top bolts the thing didn't move upwards like I expected, guess shocks were well overdue for replacement... Spring pulled out no bother (scored set of compressors for $30) and rubber insulator on top looks ok... And I pulled the upper control arm out, this is after a clean, it was covered in around 10mm of dust coloured muck... And the spindle had issues with the o-rings, one end had bulged out, while the other had a section missing. This would explain why previous attempts at lubing had just pumped grease under the guard... And old vs new. new ones are Lovells lows, matching them with KYB shocks... I was hoping to just chuck the spring in and move onto replacing the rubber suspension bushes, but cleaning the pivot revealed some wear (potentially the source of my slight but annoying Falcon squeak) so looked at replacements... Upper ball joints were equally scruffy, so ordered new ones of those too. Under the crud in this pic is the lower ball joint, I suspect these are riveted in rather than bolted so will have to drill them out after I've cleaned up. The top joint resisted all my attempts at getting it out till I shot into supercheap and grabbed a $20 separator tool... and naturally the tie rod rubbers were also shagged... I looked at replacing the rubber on these but seems tie rod comes as a complete unit, so - have ordered: * new upper control arm pivot bushes * upper and lower ball joints * and inner and outer tie rod ends. More costs I hadn't intended, but might as well do it now...
    5 points
  5. Sweet, I'll have a poke around and If it dosent improve I'll kit my spare with its bits
    5 points
  6. Turbo pipework all welded ready to go.
    5 points
  7. what if we call for a breakdown at St Bathans and you accidentally have 5 shandies while loading the truck?
    4 points
  8. ride in a EF wagon and free speights. what a time to be alive
    4 points
  9. Hello. I have edited the date to the second to last Wednesday of every month. This is what it should be but I made a few fuckups last year and the date got all scrambled. Soz bowls'. I'll advertise it on facebook too so we can hopefully get a few more newbies and steer them away from the path of large diameter rims and back towards widened steels and cellular telephones used to measure the dish of said wheel. See you all there!
    4 points
  10. @mint16 you need to head along to your first regional meet and suck in some two stroke fumes on the lake
    4 points
  11. After much experimentation we've worked out how to laser etch into concrete pavers....much easier than sand blasting! We've got interest from some town planners up north, really need to get this in front of planners in Christchurch for their urban rebuild.
    4 points
  12. That's a pretty intense earthquake that flips the house while you're doing the brakes.
    3 points
  13. grouse! the more the merrier. sucks to hear about the finances @igor, perhaps we can crowdfund your roadtrip?
    3 points
  14. I didn't think mine leaked oil until I noted it had no oil. Normal service then resumed. Good to see the Oldschool stand is close to the edge so we can bugger off before the prescribed 3pm official. I say everyone bring a deck chair and pretend we're the Jowett club or something Barryish, and then advertise doing hourly displays on how to use your Makita to cut springs.
    3 points
  15. So, Guypie's pic shows the name on the back. In one of the older threads it was mentioned that the Trudgeon business (painting and decorating) still exists in Ashburton I got a reply from Greg Trudgeon that the car was owned by Mr Russell Johnson who used to work for the business, and that the sign writing was a bit of joke as he had been with them for 30 years (has died since). Based on the modern papers i have the car was sold by Mr Johnson in 1979. Cool story bro.
    3 points
  16. I don't know if you peeps know about thermettes, but basically they are the most awesome bit of OS camping kit there has ever been. Shit has been around since the 1900's; https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kelly_Kettle You can still buy them new; http://www.wilsonandco.co.nz/thermette/ They are so sweet to use, you just need some twigs and you can boil 2 liters of water in 7 - 8 mins, plus cook on them as well. We used our neighbors one for the first couple of trips away in the bus, but we really needed one that lived in the bus. I was going to buy one but it really needed to be a bit bigger (hot water for the morning dishes) and I also thought it would be good to have a tap so you could siphon off water for cups of tea. So being the sort of boy I am, and just happening to have some copper sheet lying around the workshop I thought I would make one... The is the second one I have made, the first was a tiny 700ml one so you can boil up two cups of tea - I learned a lot of stuff building this one so No2 went a bit easier. Firstly I drew it up in Solidworks so I could get all the correct pattern sizes etc, then I cut all these out of the sheet. The copper is 0.5mm thick so you can do it with a decent set of scissors if need be. The outer sheet cut; Used the fingerbender to get a bend on each end; Roll it and hook them together; Gently hammer the seam together; Same for the inner cone; Then solder them up; I used lead free plumbers solder - lead poisoning does not appeal. For heat I used the oxy/lpg plant with a small tip. Then I made the cap; I actually sized the thermette around that bit of steel pipe so that it would be easy to make the cap etc. Now unfortunately, I did the rest the next day and was under serious time constraints before going away in the bus, so I forgot to take any more pics. So pretend you have just watched one of those time lapse thingies of me crashing about the workshop doing things at stupid speeds.... As you can see I soldered it all together, added a pouring orifice, made a firebox on a stand, made a handle out of a broomstick handle, added a wee brass tap, made a top mounted cooking frame and then rushed to Marahau to use it. I brought it back to the workshop for a few wee mods after the trip - it needed a lip at the opening of the firebox to stop shit falling out, and I did not get a chance to put the pipe on the tap that you can see. This made for amusing dances when filling up cups of tea as you would get boiling water dropping into your safety crocs. I also made a wooden handle for the tap handle as the brass would get very hot as well. It is pretty much perfect now, here it is heating 3 litres of water plus boiling some spuds for tea.. And next to the camping brazier and a human for scale (she is a midget so it looks quite tall, the pot base is about a meter off the ground - perfect height for me to work at);
    2 points
  17. Also, look how tiny the carb is
    2 points
  18. The wags will fit on the AA truck, we've had a 63 on there with room to spare. Also, I want to bring either the Gloria or the Merc, not a fookin' truck m8.
    2 points
  19. If you do it anything like me, you might as well just let it run out on the floor as that's where most of it will end up when the house flips out of the container or I knock it over.
    2 points
  20. You need to do it like this: 1. Open Bleeder 2. Assist pushes pedal down and holds down 3. Close Bleeder 4. Assistant lets pedal up Repeat until no air comes out, remembering to check reservoir. Unless you are using a special hose with a valve of some sort on the end to stop the air/fluid from sucking back up
    2 points
  21. Didnt end up going to the car show last month but id be keen for a roadtrip. @igor feel free to come along for the ride if you want ill probably take the lush ef wagoon so youd be riding in style
    2 points
  22. Thanks all! Pretty stoked how it's come up now tomorrows job is to glue the roof foam good and proper then perhaps the roof lining, and get it sorted for a warrant. And clean the damn windows! carb/choke is a bit gammy so will see if I can adjust that. Accordingly has had a kit but may be something sticking. where do you work nick? I had to chuckle, it fits in between the stains the wagon left from the fuel tank and the sump
    2 points
  23. Finished this patch Made a start on the exhaust and realised I have a problem with it fitting between the crossmembers. It's going to have to be made of lots of different sections with a heap of flanges, otherwise it won't be able to be removed or fitted. It's fairly tight just to get the x-flow bit in. Might be better if I put the x-flow underneath, so then that whole section to the headers can be one piece and just drop straight down to remove. Only problem with doing that will make the exhaust sit very close to the ground, but should be fine as it won't be as low as the running boards. Will run a resonator on either side in the middle and hopefully those sections can be slid out the back if there's a flange just before the diff kick-up.
    2 points
  24. Thursday night was wagnats packing and jamming the CB radio and aerial on. The gas fridge took a lot of room in the back, and I contemplated putting the towbar on so I could take a trailer. Couldn't get the bolts to line up easily so I jacked that option in and just packed more carefully. My Mrs was coming camping too so that reduced the space available, and it was raining. Anyone with an old wagon knows about water leaks! Loaded for bear! Tagged onto the OS convoy in Te Horo and headed north. Prior to this I'd only driven the thing for about 5km in total. It went well though. Leaks as expected around the windscreen and rear side windows mostly. Some hesitation developed at higher throttle when getting near Hunterville. I suspected a blocked fuel filter due to the rusty tank, so picked up a new filter at the BP in Hunterville. Still got us to Vinegar Hill though. It's big enough for two to sleep in (so long as a few drinkies first) and did the job expected at Wagnats. I replaced the filter over the weekend and the old one (which was only little) was well clogged. Ran fine on the way home, even in the stop-go traffic coming in to Otaki. Might have been a bit smokey there, as reported on the CB. The cross-shaft in the gear linkage between the body and engine popped out when I was backing it into the garage so I lost gear selection. It was easy to lever back - looks like a new rubber bush is needed there. Still plenty to get done, but I'll leave the next steps until after British Car Day. ObPic of rusty metal removed:
    2 points
  25. Needed a small sandbag for going under the corners of my floor patch while hammering.. I love making something from nothing so used an old glove as the cuffs don't wear out. And then Greg did the sewing ( so basically he did 90% of it haha)
    2 points
  26. Dont think this car is old enough for the main forum, 1989??? So I decided to get another project to muck around with to stop me pulling things apart on the 280Z plus Craig is building lots of cool shit and I am jealous. Requirements were it had to be Nissan, be cheap, have 4 seats (the 280Z is not overly family friendly) and be cheap. I have always liked the old Z32 300zx's so decided to go down that path, they are a love it or hate it car but Im cool with that. Upsides of the Z32 are obviously you can pick them up for next to nothing these days, there are lots of spare parts available for them and they are quite a lot of car for the money. The downside is they are are a bitch to work on due to engine layout/space restrictions, you have to pull the engine to change the washer fluid. Plan for this thing is just a fun budget build, use cheap or second hand parts where possible, take to the odd track day and drive it. So knowing it was probably a stupid idea i started looking around and found cheap semi tidy 2+2 NA manual in Christchurch. So site unseen, Craig and I jumped on a plane flew down, met the guy at the airport, dropped some cash on the thing and road tripped it back to Aucks which was mint. When we picked it up Mean trip home The car has over 200K Kms on it and leaked oil from every seal imaginable, interior was filthy and it had an horrific pitstop special exhaust system that was stupidly loud and totally shit. Good points were body was fairly tidy, came on some rough 18x9.5s, gearbox felt ok and car drove pretty sweet. At home with the 280 When i got it home the first thing that needed attention was the bio-hazard of an interior. It was disgusting, the drivers seat was torn and the dash was lifting around the windscreen air vent which I believe is fairly common. Every old 300zx has a torn drivers seat which looks crap, i wanted to keep the seats as they are cool 90s retro with motors in them so decided to re skin the drivers seat. I found a tidy passenger seat online then proceeded to strip it down and swap the skin over to the original drivers seat. This was a mission that took forever, I dont recommend. Spare passenger seat I found after ripping it to pieces lots of scrubbing out years of filth, ended up with two fairly tidy seats with no rips etc. They are still wet in this pic One non torn drivers seat back in the car Rest of the interior got a full on scrub down, it was unreal how much crud came out of everything. I also pulled out the dash and glued down the area that was lifting around the air vent. Another job I did was to tidy up the vinyl trim on the rear quarter panel interior trims that were torn. Next job was address the ride height. The car was rocking full on 4x4 spec stock suspension which had to go. Cheapest option I found was some dodgy ebay style coil overs, yep they are probably made from recycled watties baked bean cans but they were cheap so they were in. Threw them in and adjusted height to something that looked more respectable There is still scope to go lower but looks better for now The car came on a set of 18x9.5 +15ET china spec Cosmis wheels. They were were in a pretty sad state with some curbing and stone chips etc. In an ideal world I should replace them with something decent but thats not happening so decided to tidy them up as best I could. You have to be a mogul when you are racing modern...WTF Spent a fair but of time sanding down all the chips and marks. Then sprayed gloss black to hide the evidence. They look 100 times better than they did so they are staying for now. Need to change the wheel nuts to something non chrome Old mate Craig had a super legit set of Defi gauges gathering dust on his shelf so i stole them, hacked up the center console and made them fit. Gauges are worth more than the whole car, cheers bro! Next thing to address is the engine. The tired VG30DE had to go, it was leaking oil real bad and is slow. I had initially thought of throwing in a RB25 for something different but by chance ended up getting hold of a supposedly low km VG30DETT twin turbo motor for super cheap from the Mrs uncle who randomly had it sitting around in his shed. Fitting a VG30DETT into a NA Z32 is meant to be relatively straight forward, you can use the NA loom etc. My car is factory manual, the NA and TT gearbox internals are identical but the TT version has a slightly larger bell housing, the internet told me it should all fit somehow... The turbo engine had been sitting in his shed for years so was looking a little worse for wear. It turned over freely so figured I would take a chance on it. This was how it looked when i got it home. I also tracked down a complete stock intercooler plumbing kit I gave it a good de-grease and waterblast then started stripping things off to tidy it up a bit. I didnt know anything about VGs so was going to be interesting. I ordered a timing belt kit, water pump and rocker cover gasket kit from the states. Then proceeded to pull things off, clean, sand, prime, paint, refit, repeat... Fitted new timing belt, idlers, water pump, thermostat etc Painted up the timing covers so they look a but different, every VG i have seen has the stock black covers. The stock T25 turbos looked in fairly good condition, no large amounts of shaft play and rotated nice and freely I ordered a set of dump pipes from ebay in the states, they were ridiculously cheap and seem OK. Painted the water inlet and outlet pipes black just to mix things up from the normal alloy finish most are Pulled the injectors and replaced the o-rings and pintle caps Painted the fuel rail gloss black Nissan engineers were on acid back in the 90s and decided to try and include lots of crazy technology into the VG engine. The engine has an exhaust recycling system to reduce emissions on startup. It is known to fail over time so I deleted it and welded up the pipe on the manifold. I also removed the PCV plumbing and welded up the ports on the rocker cover. I will be using an external oil breather tank. I also deleted all the additional water cooling lines that run under the plenum. Again these apparently begin to leak over time and arent needed. I stripped down and painted the plenum exoxy gloss black to match the rest of the engine colors. Also painted up the heat shields and other small bits, waste of time really as you will never see any of it. The factory NA engine mounts from my old engine were shot, they had cracked right through. I found some cheap nolathane ones online, I made some alloy heat shields for them as some threads online said the nolathane mounts can fail due to heat. Also replaced the rear main seal while everything was apart I reused the flywheel from the old NA engine, it is smaller than the one that comes with the TT motor but it fits with my gearbox so had no option there. NA VGs use the same clutch layout as RBs so I fitted a heavy duty Clutch Industries RB25DET clutch. Out came the tired old DE, getting at some of the plugs was a real bitch. You really need to be the size of a leprechaun to work on these engines. removed the gearbox and its 20+ years of grime Used degreaser and oven cleaner to clean it up as best I could Engine and gearbox mated up, ready to go in car In goes the DETT Boom Factory twin turbo cars have a stock external oil cooler, NA versions dont so raided Craigs parts bin again. Added a few AN fittings and sorted. I was going to used the stock intecoolers that I scored but ended up buying a dirt cheap ebay split front mount cooler for some stupid reason. I think it is a copy of the Greddy version? It is a tight fit, had to cut away some of the plastic bumper support to make room Then I made up a set of cooler pipes to fit by cutting up the stock ones I had, combined with some silicone joiners it worked out pretty sweet My car came with a china spec Greddy copy twin mushroom intake pipe I needed to fit an oil breather tank somewhere in the engine bay so decided to run with a small batter setup and combine that with a breather. Knocked up with this disaster Painted up and installed Will do the job Next job was to make up an exhaust. The dump pipes i bought off ebay included mid pipes so i was one third of the way there. Picked up a bunch of 2.5 inch bends and mufflers etc Started piecing it all together, just tacked in place to suss out the layout Went with a crossover section and two small mid resonators Once i had the layout sorted welded it all up and painted. Fitted the NA loom up to the motor. Some of the old coil plugs were broken so replaced them with new ones. I had to relocate the lower radiator mounts as the TT radiator is narrower and thicker than the NA version. I had one small issue with one of the loom grounds resulting in no power to the coils but once I sorted that the engine fired up nicely which was awesome. Used a consult cable to make sure everything was working as it should. Adjusted CAS to match engine timing to ecu timing. Oil pressure seems good, temp OK and idles nice and smooth so fingers crossed. I am waiting on a few small parts to arrive, alloy radiator as the factory one I have is a bit sketchy, factory fan shroud and radiator top mounting brackets. I have taken for a few drives up and down the road an everything seems OK so far. Car is only on wastegate boost at this stage (7psi) but I have a profec boost controller installed so will have a play with that and turn it up a bit. Washed it for the first time in forever, was such a mint weekend 280 got a clean also Next step is tidy a few small things and get a new warrant for it. Then I will fit a wide band to it and may have a play with the ECU using Nistune software or romulator. I will need to upgrade the injectors at some stage and it will need a bigger fuel pump also. Fun times
    1 point
  27. I would have to bring the truck for that.
    1 point
  28. This. I did the brakes on a club sport today with some 5mm hose from Bunnings and a Powerade bottle with a hole drilled in the lid, hose down to the bottom of the bottle and a bit of fluid and your set. It'll pull back a little bit for the first couple pumps but once up to the bottle it's sweet, and you use clear hose your can tell when all the bubbles are gone/ fluid is clean.
    1 point
  29. One time i saw a really hot girl in the jowett club. Only once though. /Ling
    1 point
  30. Maybe? I don't do well at commitment
    1 point
  31. 1 point
  32. who cares which 20v it is................. i wanna know how mental the buggy? it's mounted into is.
    1 point
  33. Thats mighty impressive work Josh indeed! My hats off to you, if it went to many others I doubt the car would've resurfaced at all let alone in this condition! Credit to your work!
    1 point
  34. My Civic got knocked back more than once for oil leaks at wof time. Must be extremely contagious. Just having them sold in Britain badged as Triumphs made mine leak oil here.
    1 point
  35. Goddamn this came out great ! Good work brother
    1 point
  36. @danger should hoon in his hairdressers/late 90s criminal defense lawyer car
    1 point
  37. Since picking her up, I've had a little bit of time to play around and work on it. I have a new born at home, so time is mostly spent taking care of her. One of the first things I did was pick up the wheels I mentioned up top. The guy had them listed as Enkei's and SSR's. When I got to his place and found out they were Rikens, I pretended to get upset and told him that they weren't worth the $400 he was originally asking for them, and bascially worked him down to $200. Works for me. One thing I hate about buying used wheels here, for some reason apparently people can't drive and find a way to rash wheels easily. You can see in the picture of the Enkei's above where the lip is slightly bent and rashed at the top. I'll be sending these out to get straightened and the rash fixed, then I'll be painting the wheels. During my time working on it, I decided to clean the car out of all the old junk and cigarette butts the previous owner decided to leave me. My buddy was giving me a hand and saw this big bubble wrapped thing in the back seat and decided to pull it out. He unwrapped it found this thing in it. It's for tobaco use, I swear..... No other major surprises, but I did manage to get $4 back from loose change, so car only cost me $746. I also got rid of the stupid ugly fog lamps and head lamp grills. The engine is in good shape, runs great except the car flood out when it reached operating temperature. I have a carb rebuild kit on order right now too, so once it comes in, I should have the car drivable. Here is my headlight/front end question. So, the front end currently on the car has 5"x7" sealed beam headlights and as i stated before the marker lenses are broken and one side is discontinued from Toyota. I've done a bunch of looking around online and it looks like the TE71 panel vans have a similar lens for the marker. We never got the panel vans up here, so does anyone have one they can measure the lens to see if it will fit?? Second question is I've been looking on ebay for the marker lens and have come across parts to do a flush face conversion. Since my front guards have the angled cutout from where the markers fit, I don't want to try and track down some earlier model guards to do a quad conversion to it, so i was wondering if anyone knew if I could do this front end without modifying the apron?? also already have those same mirrors on order too.
    1 point
  38. sorry it's a shitter but the lights blew on that side of the garage and it was late. Is wet also. Gonna drive to work tomorrow. Lights came right, did hoon a fuse so easy fix. practically everything it had, has been re-attached, but plenty of tidying inside to do. liking the direction it's going in. The rubber sample will work, just has less contact area for glue but seems to sit in the grooves better. Likely have 13m of that tomorrow to slug in this weekend. Is not the same profile as the boot so have chucked the old skode one back in for now.
    1 point
  39. The European aspect is so the electrical problems can ignite the English oil spills. Scorched earth car show.
    1 point
  40. Got the cab back from sandblasting. Has also been etch primed. They did a very good job of it. Patch panels for the right hand side floor should be here in the next week or two. Made up a plate to replace the door hinge captive nuts that were turning. Plug welded it in. Pic for thread because these updates aren't that exciting and so I don't forget how cool this will look once it's done.
    1 point
  41. Because Chris is so useless at updates heres a few pics of this cars progress.
    1 point
  42. then you can have three cars you'll never work on in your shed rotting.
    1 point
  43. So cool! I never knew any made it over here. have worked with them a bunch in Europe, just the ticket for snow at odd angles. It was pretty much the secret allowing us to build this thing
    1 point
  44. OK, so I got this done. - Fixed petrol tank and slapped some paint on it before putting it back again - Installed an electric windscreen washer setup (first bit of hack wiring on the car, amazingly) - Redid exhaust to manifold joint - Put washers on the tailgate - New bushes on the shackles. Tires were a bit of a run-around. Got some used 175's for the back as a temporary measure. New 165's for the front as I had no time for anything else. Also adjusted the column shift linkage (one rod was 5mm short) which made it heaps better to drive. Put various bits of the interior back in to make it 'comfy' I picked up the front wheels and new tires on Tuesday evening (the garage owner fitted them after hours) then took it back for a WOF recheck early Wednesday (6:45am). Mechanic was a bit grumpy but did the required paperwork and issued a sticker. I nearly drove it to town but decided I shouldn't temp fate/the popo so just bought the rego during the day.
    1 point
  45. Not mine obviously, but this is a pretty good way to shed some light on what they are and do, and how they "walk" compared to a regular machine.
    1 point
  46. Loading her up. This was a nightmare.. It doesn't run so no hydraulics, which meant cutting hoses and allowing the bleed out of the legs so we could move them manually. Obviously the flip side of this means they went wherever the fuck they wanted and with a machine weighing 7 Tonne this made things farking hard!! In the end it took 6 hours, 4 of us, 2 block n tackles, the hydraulic winch of the transporter (snapped its cable twice) and a very underpowered old tractor
    1 point
  47. Another day full of win. I left the loctite to chooch overnight and it worked perfect. Once I took a hour to diagnose a blown fuse.... New copper crush washers did the trick on the filter too. Happy with that result. I set the idle stop screw so now it actually idles and no more hunting. Attempted to do a stationary cooling test but the back is so light it drags it along, It has lots of revs now and speedo seems to be working still. it isnt too loud with the cannon gone and the muffler not leaking The loudest part is the gearbox now
    1 point
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