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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/03/17 in all areas

  1. much more space now after completing the engine bay(all hoses connected etc), iam really satisfied how it looks
    8 points
  2. Well i brought a Austin, not much to say, got a really good deal and is in original and okay condition, plans for this old girl. well first i need to fix the clunking noise in the passenger left front, i think it may be the inner cv. Buy new house carpet as the 80s house carpet aint to flash.
    4 points
  3. Cowl vent patch is now welded in. Welded like crap because it was still a bit rusty and thin in places, but should clean up nicely with some paint. Gonna have to learn how to airbrush patina or something haha. Started a collection of dashes. Picked up the middle RHD one last weekend from a guy just 5 minutes up the road. Including mine there's now 3 50's Chevy pickup projects within about a 10km radius and that's out in the country haha. Bought the one that's been very badly modified to fit a commodore dash cluster a few years ago, not sure why because it's a hideous thing! At least it's in good condition where the unmodified RHD one isn't, so it's going to get cut up. Got it sand blasted and primed. The left side is mint, the right side is quite holey but it's fixable.
    4 points
  4. is there anyplace i can go to get the specific colour electrical wires i want? ideally i could walk in and get various lengths of differently striped wire without having to buy a massive roll of each
    2 points
  5. Yep, pretty frigging happy with it, paint could be nicer, more stainless/polish/chrome etc would be cool, but at the end of it, no one is really going to see it are they!?Bonus shots.bolted in the shocks, painted the white front ones matt black like the rears.thought I may have a problem here. actually about 1cm away from the shock, should be okay? would be much eaier to change it now than when it's full of fluid.other random pics.this thing was super handy for bending up the brake lines.
    2 points
  6. The rear cab mounts/ front deck mount things had rotted through all along where they were welded to the chassis. Various patches had already been done and the only option was complete replacement. (Lol..Cat added one extra brown hole to this photo.) Probably mentioned these heaps but had them laser cut out of 3mm steel (significantly thicker than factory) and then folded at work during smoko. I cut the old mount off on one side and used it as a template to mark cut and fold lines on my new pieces. Have acquired a TIG welder to use at home. The GOOD body guys use Tig to weld up their panel steel- the benefit being far less material to clean up and a much softer weld that you can hammer (I'm told MIG will crack) The professionals don't even use filler wire- their gaps are so minimal that they can fuse the panels together and planish the seam out so that virtually no grinding is needed! I'm nowhere near that skill level but made my first decent part for the driver's side patch that I stuffed up earlier. This part is a front corner and it is a mirror image of the factory floor on the passenger side (I have nothing on the driver's side left to copy) As I don't have one of those fancy contour tools I used very low tensile bent wire (I think it's gas welding filler wire) to transfer and check shapes.
    1 point
  7. 1 point
  8. If my engine crane gets dropped off I'll need a hand/someone to pull a motor out. I'll even supply beers
    1 point
  9. The front suspension was a little stiff, seems no one had been greasing it over the last decade.. New shocks Late night suspension work..
    1 point
  10. Finishing off the wiring, uncovered horrors.. This must have got a little hot at some point?
    1 point
  11. Welcome to the gang, we need to organise BMC foamer stickers and mugs.
    1 point
  12. Nice car! Twins to mine. The passenger side noise is more likely to be the bush in the steering rack, it makes a noise through the floor. Check my thread here - I just did the fix. I'll find the nolathane part number later. See below for how I did it. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/35013-guywithaviators-1974-austin-1300/&page=6
    1 point
  13. TVNZ "The Mainland Touch" story on Ernie Spragues Mk3.
    1 point
  14. After fitting the engine, next problem was that engine moved forward, so there wasnt many space for the pipe from air filter to the turbo. So i bought a SPAL slim ventilator, as stock one is really deep here is the problem Comparasion and fitted, looks like OEM
    1 point
  15. I used to run triple SU,s on my mk3 in the 80's. Never had many issues at all with tuning. Key is to have a good adjustable linkages. I'm gathering all the parts to do a lowline Mk 2 Zodiac build once my GT is finished. Have a Mk 3 engine with Bedford pistons prettyy big cam, big valve head gas flowed and triple SU,s. going to run a Mk 3 box and steering column, negative camber front crossmember and it all slammed on 8" steel widened wheels all old school.
    1 point
  16. I'm here already, we put thi sign up today then this tonight
    1 point
  17. Broken selector fork, pretty easy fix if you can get a replacement and are not afraid to open it up.
    1 point
  18. Every time I see this thread updated I jump in here. So sick, possibly one of my fav builds. Godspeed!
    1 point
  19. In other related news from Kumey - Giz?
    1 point
  20. After another rub-down, we shot another layer of sunrise red in the bay. Now there are only a few patches where you can see the sanding marks therefore yet another rub down will be needed. The colour really deepened after the second coat and should be looking bang on after another couple. Somehow I have lost 1L of clear in my shed somewhere….FML. The FXGT brakes/s2 RX7 discs are all fitted to the dummy diff and this all should be ready to bosch together this weekend. The discs were opened up on the lathe so that they fit over the ‘snout’ of the hub extensions which allows me to run my RX2 wheel centres. Hoping that this weekend I can have the rear end rolling and the bay painted. 6 mates pooled in $80 each and we got ourselves a tyre changing machine and balancer off trademe - this is living in a mates shed and will give us free tyre changes for life.
    1 point
  21. The big rush was to get the new engine up and running as I'll be competing at the Leadfoot Festival this weekend 2 more days to go Come and say Hi if you're down at Hahei this weekend
    1 point
  22. So christmas came a little late this year.who am I kidding, this was better!Mark at the Metric Nut sent me up pretty much everything I'd need to get this thing on the road.I wasn't going to bother with the shift rod seal but after cleaning up the gearbox, I'd found one small tear in one of the axle boots, so while it's apart we might as well stick one in, never had one before, fancy!got the front brakes back together.had to get the rear oil seals pressed in by the local shop (cheers frank and co) I tried doing my self but just mangled it. nearly didn't do that either as I read the seals don't work without the drums torqued up, again, glad I did as this was inside the leaking one.took the pedals apart, cleaned, painted, greased and reassembled.pretty much every part of the throttle linkage was all bent to hell.new bumpstopstwin circuit master with fluid res on top, started running new stainless brake lines that I brought ages ago.pedals installed.ran clutch and throttle cables, forgot how much of a ass hooking up the clutch cable was who designed that fucking thing!got the rear brakes back in along with the bearing seals, handbrake cables run and hooked up.cleaned up the tie rods and installed new inner ends, the outer one have been replaced in the last decade or so.I was going to polish up those stainless brake lines but I had run out of autosol and wanted to get it done, I've also realized how little things like a tube of this, a can of that, soon adds up, I needed rubber grommets for the brake line, some else this car has never had, and bugger me if stupercheap wanted over eight bucks for two.this shit adds up man!ah, forgot the lube!never forget the lube.then I came up with this genius way of getting it inside the steering box.and paint bla bla.front drums on, with new locking tabs for the bearings.rears all jammed on.and holy shit balls! it's on it's wheels!
    1 point
  23. Commission job i did. Client said "Do it when ya get bored mate", so i was bored over the weekend lol.
    1 point
  24. Well I got the donor car... Seems to be running the standard EX box. Once I have it apart I guess I will see what clutch etc it is running.
    1 point
  25. With my lightning quick reactions, I pressed this plan into action a mere 21 months later than expected: Note the kayak on the roof for extra internet cool points and also the headlights, grille and bonnet removed, to make the job look more involved. That's not me on the ground doing stuff by the way; that's my cousin, who did a vast majority of the work, whilst I pondered over various bits and did a small fraction of removing stuff, plus took some terrible photos on an outdated camera phone, for the benefit of a few people who like to read about old cars on the internet. Here's a very similar photo, just prior to the one above (where 'we' were removing the Nissan gearbox) which shows the LD28 freshly removed and testing the load bearing capabilities of some old seatbelts, whilst I pause to take another photo. There's a bit more to say about the 308 motor but that'll have to wait for another time, as I've had a few drinks tonight to celebrate/commiserate the LD28's passing.
    1 point
  26. Anyhooo, got it home on wednesday, and on Friday after work ripped everything out and gave all the carpets, interior and engine a waterblast, used a whole liter can of cavity wax and put 20mm XPS behind the interior panels. Also some old carpet as underlay under the 'lounge' part. Tidied up the one rusty area (under the drivers feet) Euuugh Stripper wheel and some Phosphoric acid Paint (wooo appliance white!) Today I installed the bed. The side 'pods' are now permanently attached to the van, but the centre part of the bed (a 1200 x 2000 bit of ply) can be easily slid out to convert to a van. Gets the bitches seal of approval. Mrs like it too. Still got black out curtains to make and install, a sink/shelf (Mrs runs contact lenses so running water is a prerequisite), new (from the Caldina) head unit overhead storage? retractable awning for over the sliding door etc. Stoked.
    1 point
  27. Oh yeah, success! http://www.tasteslikepetrol.net/2017/01/rover-sd1-its-a-pass/
    1 point
  28. Some more rust, this time the cowl vent. The channel where the rubber seal sits needs to be completely replaced. The other piece that is spot welded underneath just needs a few small holes patched up. Attempted to use a shrinker/stretcher to make up individual pieces but it wouldn't stretch enough for the tight radius. So then I thought about other ways and decided to try and form it out of one piece. Drew up some cad drawings and got them laser cut. After one hour of smacking it with a hammer. Came out way better than expected. Just needed to fold the inside up now. The inner corners required heating as they needed some decent stretching. The shape and fitment turned out as good as my measuring and cad drawing skills.
    1 point
  29. So that last post was fuckin terrible. I have never done any sort of sheet metal like this (just what's in this thread) so it was easy for me to bust out some garbage that filled the hole and sort of ignore how terrible it was. I made the mistake of sharing some of those images on Facebook and got many good comments and I fleas feeling pretty good about things. Nek minnit a friend (an Oldschool rodder who has done thousands of hours of high quality bodywork) was brutally honest about how shit that section of floor is and told me I could do better. It was embarrassing as hell and I remembered what it felt like to be an apprentice.. so started googling. First of all- I need to buy some decent hammers. It's pretty damn obvious but every dent in your hammer is going to leave a mark in the steel. I shouldn't have used my single planishing hammer for driving nails, basically. Secondly- it's not THAT hard to watch some videos and just do things properly. So I polished the face of my only hammer and gave my only dolly a file. Then I made a template of what I thought would be the hardest section to start with, transferred it to MDF and rasped some curves round the perimeter. I can flip this wood over and use it to do the driver's side (which I cut out way too eagerly) I pinned the steel into place with a few nails and started tapping it round...Which didn't last long as it soon became a pretzel. So if you don't have a shrinker stretcher there seems to be really only one way of shrinking things. You have to make a joggle tool..There seem to be quite a few diy solutions online but I just cut a slot into this big old screwdriver. You slip it over the edge of the panel where you need it shrunk and twist then move along and twist in the other direction. Eventually you end up with what looks like a cupcake case. But rather than being twisted like before it will now have a flat bottom ..Like TS The joggle tool is also great for shaping the edge of panels.. you can slip it on and lever the steel up or down in little increments and grandually change things quite nicely. Next you need heat. All I have is a little MAP set but it suits my limited space and does the job. Heat the joggled area cherry red and then tap down quickly and gently over a dolly. This squashes the z's down flat but somehow doesn't spread them back out.. dunno how but it works waaaaaay better than expected. So.. a heap more tapping and adjusting with this new dolly I made and suddenly I have something nearly ready to fit! Now I need a hammer with a pick end and a way of forming the swage in the rear section.
    1 point
  30. Off to drop a 6/71 topped Big Block Chev into my old Panelvan at the new owners' house and remove a diff head if anyone is keen on chipping in. This guy has the best yarns I have ever heard mayte.
    1 point
  31. Yeah that port is effectively a breather, filtered through a carbon canister for emissions etc. Apparently people plumb it to the air filter? With the idle mixture screw, generally its clockwise lean, anticlockwise rich. There will be a manual or something which specifies that the screw should be 2 to turns out from close. Set it 2 turns out,start the motor and warm it up, then screw the idle mixture screw slowly in till the motor starts to stumble, this will make it run too lean. Then slowly like quarter turns screw it anti clock wise to let more fuel in, you should hear the engine speed pick up a bit and smooth out. Too far antilock wise and it'll start to run poor again as it'll be rich. Should land somewhere close 2 turns out. I used a glass spark plug to set this up on my motorbike thread, makes it an easy job but you should be able to get it reasonable good by ear.
    1 point
  32. Not much work has been done of this, busy modifying my MIG to have a "Spot Weld" mode (If successful I will start a seperate thread on that). I did however install the remaining tinware and connected the fan so I could run it for longer and get it properly hot. Here it is, Runs sweet!
    1 point
  33. Done diddly fuck for a while, took her for a WOF after the brake work and she passed _b Adjusted the rear brakes and that's been about it lately, have been too busy being a company man at the moment. For the thread, here's a pic during a spin around town the other day. Such good fun to drive.
    1 point
  34. My engine exploded! IMG_4030
    1 point
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