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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/09/16 in all areas

  1. After lifting the body off and on a few times i finally have the engine sitting almost where i want it. Front pulley sits more or less in the same place as the original TD27. I have used a Safari bellhousing bolted to a 300ZX TT auto box.
    11 points
  2. Mmmkay, so the GSR has never had a working key for the boot or passengers door. Drivers door could be opened with basically anything. Ignition has had a key broken off in it since the car was last used actively. Won't mention the fuel door lock, as they all appear to be just a latch that any key will fit into. Was hoping to use all the locks out of green car as they all appeared to match at first glance, and had an original key which I get major boners for. Did some tinkering. Found the door locks were pretty beat up, I don't really know what I'm doing but these weren't right. Ended up pulling a bunch of locks apart that were left over from crashed red Brumby, and the Green wreck. Final result is 2 working door locks, a working boot lock, a working ignition barrel and steering lock. Key will pull out of ignition barrel though, I think thats cause the key is a bit(lot) worn out. And thats my story about keys. Going up a hill Tell me to hurry up here. //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/22150-waimaks-gsr/page-19
    10 points
  3. so the car has just come back from Greg's where it has had a full cut and polish. its pretty much done now. there are two things left to do, adjust the door glass so it seats in the rubber s better and paint the rear badge. thats it. its done. hard to believe really but it is. the new owner has joined OS and will be involved in OS events for the future so imi sure you'll see the car around. for what could be the last post by me in this thread here are some bad photos of trying to show how fucking amazing it looks after polishing. 2016-06-08_06-43-53 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-06-08_06-44-17 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-06-08_06-44-30 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-06-08_06-44-51 by sheepers, on Flickr 2016-06-08_06-45-03 by sheepers, on Flickr
    10 points
  4. 6 points
  5. More not so exciting things, I got a super cheap deal on a terraphone professional intercom, 40 bucks mayyyyte. Lush thing about this is it has a audio output, so I can plug it into my go pro for max swearword crash antics. I'm going to mount the go pro on the bottom of the intercom. Got some aliexpress 12v -5v usb converters so I can hardwire the go pro in cos the batteries are super shit. So just for the purpose of form rather than function I replaced the wheel with a sweet little sportline one, makes the car look a bit more period than the rice wheel, again I can't go bigger than 320mm to fit my fat knees.
    5 points
  6. So daily has been sold to Boxed who will hopefully have heaps of fun and learn lots in it. For me its good to close another chapter in my ae101 life. Also finished moving into new garage finally getting rid of some furniture to make room for racecar. Time for some progress. All my wheels went with the daily so time to buy some new wheels and tyres. These will be my road tyres. Went for a dunlop DZII which was unfortunately only available in a 195 but the tread pattern is pretty cool which looks like the footprint on the road will be more like a bigger tyre with a conventional tread pattern. Will see how they go. Wheels are a Lenso PDJ 15x8 +20. Relatively lightweight. Bit too much bling but brake dust should solve that.. pretty happy so far. Ride height sorted: Pretty happy with finding a modern wheel in a 15x8 that looks pretty good on the car. Next up is organising rollcage re-homologation and mods and ordering a set of these: Can't wait!!!
    3 points
  7. Remove bootlid, apply tape and yellowpages I have no idea what I'm doing. STAY AWAY RUST.
    3 points
  8. I think it's well past time I updated this thread. A lot has changed since so I'll try update this thread with the progress. One of the first things I did when I got my hands on this was to pop of the rocker cover. It was a nice surprise to see Nissan Japan on the head. This shows that it is a gx head which have bigger intake ports than a15 heads and they're pretty rare. From now on the upgrades began, the first being a 5 speed swap. Luckily I had brought a sunny with a 5 speed a few months before buying this so I switched the 4 speed that was in this with the sunny 5 speed. As this was originally an auto it has a bigger tunnel than the manual 1200s. The main benefit of this apart from the extra room is that you don't have any issues with the 5 speed reverse switch hitting the tunnel. Here you can see just how different they are, manual on the left auto on the right.
    2 points
  9. When you put all three in the line up, it's red red red for me.
    2 points
  10. Here are the photos of the rear wheels on the car. There is enough clearance to go lower. I'm going to use HQ Holden lowering blocks and take out the rubbers that go between the diff and the springs. This might make for a bit of extra harshness in the car but I think that having the diff located more firmly will help tame the power of the V8. I also found these that have been in the garage for 25 years. Must be well over due to use them. There has been a fair number of hours gone into making the chassis connectors. Here is part 1 Hopefully Clint, our resident certification genius will be happy. I think so.
    2 points
  11. So had the last sprint of the DCC sprint series in this thing a few weeks ago, car was going well, wet greasy day. My father in law and I both dual drove the car so was good to see what it is capable of. Lots of sideways fun like this - Managed to win this for the series- deeeze are the results of the day, i was pretty bloody happy to only be a fraction of a second of Rhys, and dealt to a few 4age powered cars with my whopping 64hp. Father in law (chris lancaster) fucking cleaned up, finished mid pack, and almost won b class 1300-1600 also! shows what experience and big nungas can do so after i got home i decided i wanted more than 64hp and curiosity was killing me to find out what the cam specs were, as the dyno told me thats whats holding it back, so got home and pulled the cam out - reprofiled on the left, stock on the right turns out the cam spec is weak as Sparkle, almost stock cam lift (ignore valve lift, muppet fucked up the rocker ratio) and feck all duration. Trying to come up with a new profile for this now, but im currently broke for a while so dunno when the grind will happen. Cosworth A2 my asshole also did some recent mucking around with a navigators console for a couple of gauges, button switches for wipers and the horn, and space for a trip meter- have also decided when i do the cam im going to bin the fucking shit, unequal length, tiny primary, 4 into 1 and tuned for almost 9000rpm cobys and make a set of tuned 4-2-1 extractors. Played around with some potential cam specs and got some pipe diameter and length numbers here, hopefully this happens over the next couple of months. Will bang them together and get them HPC'd
    2 points
  12. Hey guys and girls, Gonna go back to the good ole Wholly Pizza in Thorndon. If we say from about 6.30-6.45ish and those that can make it at that time head up and order so we don't get a massive back log of ordering and waiting for pizza when they're trying to close. Do you really need a map? It's next to Thorndon New World. Google it. Discussion
    2 points
  13. Of the few thousand I've worked on/ built its the nrv, as they have a line to the p.switch which is open when ever the comp gets to pressure or is turned off at the pswitch, if you turn it off at the wall or as op said a switch on motor it won't open the valve thus it won't leak air, you may have a self unloading nrv that isn't connected to the pswitch but they are generally more troublesome to set up hence we only fitted them when requested
    2 points
  14. In my case it was the fuel rail getting heat soaked from the engine that raises fuel temps. Fuel comes up to the engine, gets heated by rail, then sent back to the tank slightly hotter than it started. Rinse repeat, and fuel temp creeps up and up especially if you're low on fuel. I left my fuel pump pumping at 80psi with a cold engine and from memory it took something like 1/2 an hour for the temp of the rail to raise by 5 degrees or so. Yet when turning the motor on, fuel rail temp rockets up. Since insulating the bolts that connect my rail to the engine with plastic washers, and insulating the rail itself. My fuel rail doenst get steaming hot anymore.
    2 points
  15. Long time no post I get a little bit of time to work on this every so often, and this is pretty much all I've done. Stripped all the suspension right down, cleaned, painted, and started reassembling. While I had the rear brakes apart I found the auto adjuster hinge pins were too tight and stopping the adjuster from working. That would explain the brake pedal going to the floor. And I made some new brake lines, the old ones were horrid, and crushed in a couple of places. Will do the rest of the pipes after I chuck some paint in the engine bay, and underneath. Don't open the garage door while you've got stuff hanging from the track, idiot. Oh yeah, and I cut the rusty bits out of the right sill, sprayed lots of rust converter in the sill, and ran out of gas to patch it up, dang
    2 points
  16. Yeah problem is though, that when you're actually driving the car the background knock noise increases. So need to test it in real conditions I reckon. I had a bit more of a play with this tonight, lately I've been getting a strong knocking noise even though my timing has been more conservative than previously, and AFRs on 14.7 during knocking conditions. Looking at the knock detection it seems to be primarily knocking on #3 and #4, if I let it pull out up to 15 degrees timing it was pulling the timing right back to only 2-3 degrees before TDC. But only around the 2500-3000rpm mark. Didnt seem to make sense, but I advance timing more than that and I can hear the knock myself just driving the car. I thought it might have been VVTI timing, but adjusting that one way or the other doesnt make a difference. I pulled the spark plugs out as I havent checked them in a very long time. Looks like they are due for replacement, I think they've had a hard time with a few retunes of the engine and also the time that the spark plug valleys filled up with oil due to half tightened valve cover haha. Will be interesting to see if the knock values change much with different plugs. Or maybe I had a retard moment and filled the car with 91?
    2 points
  17. I was building a Ford Escort Mk1 gasser and documenting the build on here and on facebook, but a few things made me totally change direction. After spending a huge amount of time on the Escort chassis, I still wasn't happy with the compromise of it. That coupled with the amount of new (read bloody expensive) panels needed to make it as good as I wanted it made me lose a bit of interest. Total interest was lost when I started to build the engine and found a crack through one of the bores. So the shell/chassis and all of the engine parts were sold off (at quite a handsome profit I'd like to add), and I concentrated on my bike for a while. Then this popped up for sale. It's a 1938 Ford model 7Y (which is dimensionally and physically similar to a Ford Pop). It's very straight and solid and was bought complete. The nice stuff from the Escort build will find it's way to the 7Y, so it will still be 'Cheatin' The Reaper' - just a genetically modified version. It didn't take long to strip it down to just the body, leaving the chassis to be sold off along with the engine, gearbox, interior etc I designed a new chassis, made out of 75x40x3 steel box, which is at this stage at the moment: Front suspension is parallel leaf springs. I made the shackles & mounts: Then narrowed the drop-tube axle to suit: I found a nice and perfectly sized fuel tank on TradeMe and made the crossmember to suit. This is 75x40x3 box again, with 3mm gussets: I've bent up the hoops for the rollcage (no pics yet) and am just waiting for a nice full day to get the whole lot jigged up and welded together. Rear axle will hopefully be a Jag IRS. Engine will be Ford V8. Body will be chopped about 2.5" and front end will be fibreglass flip front. Keep checking either here or on facebook: https://www.facebook.com/mk1gasser/
    1 point
  18. Well I got me another van Plans are bright yellow, chrome bumpers, Mexico front lip, fishnets, 13x6 superlites and a 2lt Pinto + 5 speed type 9.
    1 point
  19. Sold Mister Two in May or so, bought another car and flew down to Christchurch on the weekend of the crazy flooding in the north island, and came back with this. 'goze hard 4 wot it iz' It's a piece of shit but I love it. There's a fair bit of South Island engineering going on throughout the car (no hate ). This includes (but is not limited to) battery in the boot with the main battery feed in a taped up plastic box hanging around the engine bay, what looks to be a home-made stainless exhaust manifold that is full of cracks, and there was even a crack in the chassis but I got that sorted as soon as I found out about it. On the upside, it has a hybrid turbo (what looks to be the factory IHI RHB51 exhaust housing, with an IHI VJ20 compressor housing from a Familia GTX), an Apexi AFC Neo air/fuel controller and a Greddy Profec boost controller. It is currently my daily but plans are to tidy (and fix) it up once I have another daily, take it to the track a bit, and possibly coilovers a bit further in the future.
    1 point
  20. Proud of you son. Super good shit. So keen to see this out and about again. So dope.
    1 point
  21. I know it is next week, but if it was the next week... i.e. I know it's the 16th, I'm in town the following week. Semantics.
    1 point
  22. Man it looks good. Excellent job as expected my friend.
    1 point
  23. Good shit J5. I'm very happy to see you getting back into this.
    1 point
  24. A victory for internet diagnosis!
    1 point
  25. beauty tank choice etc
    1 point
  26. motors starting to look the part, new water pump and timing belt kit, ditched the belt covers. need to finish cleaning and painting the rest of the brackets/pulleys/inlet and alternator ect, also need to work out how to mount the coils on new rocker cover. hopefully pull out the old motor this weekend
    1 point
  27. that's what mine was doing (precision air) loading up to 125 psi then venting back down to 90, just randomly started doing it. Pulled the pressure switch to pieces, it was pretty clean in there, but I coated everything with silicon spray and now it works fine.. well it did when I last used, I'll go out there tonight and try it and the fucker will do it again I bet..
    1 point
  28. I'm using it with a Link G4+ Essentially how it works with the Link. You set ignition timing to settings where it definitely isnt causing any knock. And then you measure how much "background noise" the knock sensor naturally makes at each rpm and load combo. Then you add about 20% on top of this as the knock threshold. This is a graph showing the knock threshold (in Red) and the knock sensor output levels on each cylinder in grey and purple at various rpm and load combos as the car drives. If one of the grey or purple lines goes up above the red line, that's how the ECU interprets knock happening and starts pulling timing out. (you can see two examples of this, middle of screen) Only problem is that if you have engine bay rattles or go over big bumps in the road, it can sometimes falsely register as knock. At some load/rpm combos though I find that either the background engine noise is too loud, or the knock sound is too quiet so its hard to distinguish one from the other. I've currently got mine set to run between 1500rpm and 5000rpm, mainly for purpose of advancing timing at cruise conditions for good economy. But still being able to pull timing back to a sensible level if something goes wrong. My understanding is that a 3S with standard crank etc has a "deadzone" where you cant measure knock due to natural block vibrations matching the knock signal somewhere around the 6krpm mark. If you set a maximum ignition retard for knock timing of say 10 degrees, then see that your ECU has pulled 10 degrees timing out at one point. then you know that you need to increase your knock threshold value rather than reduce ignition timing. Because there's no way that an engine would need that much timing pulled out to prevent knock. It's a work in progress for me, still trying to find the best values to work with. Currently running a Bosch style wideband sensor filtered by ECU to the 6khz range.
    1 point
  29. The seats are back from being reupholstered, Should fit great in chocolate brown. Need to get carpet sorted now then re-assembly shall begin!
    1 point
  30. 1 point
  31. Another week. Not so freaken sure where all th time went. I mean, I got some shit done, but it doesn't really feel like it was much However, motor is now mounted in the car, gear box bolted up, drive shaft in etc. Might have to modify the clutch slave mounting some how, It clearly isn't right, and my guess is I was in to much of a hurry last time to do anything about it, I suspect the clutch slave movement isn't enough to fully operate the clutch fork. Maybe why I had issues with clutch slippage. Then again its probably fine. So next up is strip all the stuff off the front of the engine for painting. Which I guess is what this week is going to consist of mostly. Need the rocker covers and intake manifold painted so I can sit the loom back on the engine and figure out the few mods to the loom I need to do. As I plan on doing everything in wrinkle finish, I also need to figure out some sort of paint booth where I can use some heat. Oh and My 235 / 40/ 17's turned up so droped all my wheels down to local tire wizard for some fitting Not looking forward to finding out how much space I don't have Rad I know
    1 point
  32. My GT Replica is coming along well [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// [/url]">http://http://s1010.photobucket.com/user/garryhg/media/gt1.jpg.html'>
    1 point
  33. So planned out the brackets (this stuff is all planned you know!): Cut and drilled the bracket material (this is 8mm mild steel plate). The four mount brackets are already tapped m10 thread in this pic: Trial fit before going any further. The mount bolts are M10 12.9 countersunk allen head bolts. Then weld on the correct spacers. These were through-drilled the correct diameter and then tapped m12 after welding: and bolt it all together. The uprights will be countersunk more to allow the bolts to be flush, and the caliper bolts are only there for trial fit: There will need to be very thin shims between the calipers and mounts, but at least I know it will all works.
    1 point
  34. New wheels fitted. I'm going to sort the mistake I made with the arches...my weekend job! [/url]">http:// [/url]">http:// [/url]">http://http://s1010.photobucket.com/user/garryhg/media/20160603_150601.jpg.html'>
    1 point
  35. Mustang, Mustang, Mustang, Canam, Trike
    1 point
  36. Patched as bro. Next problem is the rear of this guard. Looks like almost the whole back edge needs replacing.
    1 point
  37. I'm Wrapped Roof done last night...looking great thanks to Matt @ Tri-Signs. He has taken the arches away to do today, get them back tomorrow, so more photos soon.
    1 point
  38. Some more of the green filth mobile. Lense repair The seats which hopefully can be used to help make one decent drivers for the orange GSR And two step bonnet.
    1 point
  39. As much as I'm head over heels in love with your escort, it makes me realise how shit I am at cars. Awesome work Cheers Matt
    1 point
  40. Got this running and drove around a bit yesterday. Needs attention obviously so hopefully there hasn't been too much deterioration on the mechanical side of things. This mess Turned into this No matter how thorough clean up you think you're doing, goddamn chunks of glass everywhere/my feet. For the matters of public interest I have received a quote to make and fit a custom rear window by an Auckland company $850NZD + GST and I understand the car is needed for 2 weeks in Auckland. I don't think I'll go down this path, because well, $50 car, and I'm one broke mofoker.
    1 point
  41. Back to racecar updates.. Daily is currently being certed ready for daily thrashing.. This thing is back to being rolling yuss! Paint turned out really good in the end Subframes back in - still need to tidy up the arms and steering rack with a fresh lick of paint. Forklifts come in handy.. Has now made the move with me to Hamilton. Good to have it in the shed again.
    1 point
  42. Bit of off-seal action this weekend. This is the normal ride height.
    1 point
  43. Cert plate acquired. Beach Hop attended. I do need to make some changes to the rear shocks or something as it is rather bouncy in the rear when driving. I've been advised that '4WD' shocks would be better. Will do some research after the school holidays.
    1 point
  44. Some of the areas worse affected by rust. Panel beater is happy for me to come and do as much as I can in weekends etc to save cost. Started sanding. Didn't have much time today. Will be at it next weekend again.
    1 point
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