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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/24/15 in all areas

  1. 16 points
  2. today i took the motor out and in traditional OS tradition here is a picture of me playing actual guitar in the hole. you probably can't tell but I'm playing a fine rendition of the sound of silence. 2015-12-24_04-25-34 by sheepers, on Flickr 2015-12-24_04-08-58 by sheepers, on Flickr so, onward. whats wrongs with this picture?? 2015-12-24_02-54-59 by sheepers, on Flickr thats right keen eyed reader! the pipey bits should line up with the slots in the fire wall, but they don't. id been intrigued by this oddity for some time and today after i got the motor out i decided it was time to investigate. i have no fucking clue how this was assembled in this way, i could not get it out without breaking the housing. its the wrong heater core but i suppose that much was obvious. there just was no way of getting it out without breaking it. so i broke it. 2015-12-24_03-02-46 by sheepers, on Flickr whatchaaaa gonna do now? well, tomorrow is Christmas day so ill probably take tomorrow off. boxing day however is prep engine bay day.
    8 points
  3. ran this down the road to the new house. All of the smoke came out, so I should probably change the oil, its full of moreys that leaked past the cylinders and probably water from sitting. Got a wheel going for my granddad and locked the brakes up after a speed run. So replace fuel bowl gasket cos its pissing out torque head bolts, looked like a bit of weeping more brake work. They lock and stop but the pedal feels horrible and the new house is at the bottom of a hill pretty sure I saw a crack in the exhaust, so il do something with that I guess change the drive dog on the new distributor 180 so the leads reach and I can tune it properly new fluids get a suspect east coast wof cruise the heads
    8 points
  4. Since the beginning of this project O.S. decided to discontinue production of the Wankel engine, this in turn has obviously been met with an increased demand for second hand engine and parts. As the Type II engine is the rarest on auction sites, I decided to purchase a used condition Type I (first of the PP engines) and use that as a base for the project. The first step was to dismantle the engine to see its condition. Disassembly proved quite a challenge with one main setback. Whilst removing the rotor gear the head of my 2mm hex bit broke off into the cap screw proving a pain to get out, only for me to cock it all up and loosen the rotor from the vice chipping part of the rotor where the apex seal sits. The rotor could be reused but I have since bought a replacement. Unsurprisingly the engine is simple in architecture with no side seals just apex seals held in by two mini leaf springs. The beauty lies in the finish of the parts. Without side seals the rotorhousing, rotor and end plates are all surface ground to ensure the engine has compression. As I have two generations of peripheral port O.S. Wankels I got rotorhoe to take some extra images images of the differences between generations. From what I have read and can be seen in the image above the Type II has a machined rotor housing and rotor as well as a newer glowplug, carburettor and cap screw fasteners. The remainder of the parts carry over from the Type I. Thus, I aim to improve the Type I where possible and encompassing some of the Type II upgrades.
    8 points
  5. Finished work after a casual day, managed to steal the work welder, so figured I would get this chassis done so I can actually get the motor sitting in place. So welded in the piece I was missing, ground it back, sanded it down, painted iron oxide and then a bit of Black, then covered it with oil and a bunch of dirt, looks ok, alternator sits over the area anyway so hopefully no one really suspects anything lol and yeah, hopefully from here I can now just do motor stuff.
    6 points
  6. Merry Christmas " Project Alan Mann " New Wheels and Tyres Dragged the four door out for a photo too
    4 points
  7. So i saved up and brought 4x new eagers. Sent the rims off to get blasted, then painted them satin black. Got the boys at mag n turbo to fit + balance them and roll the rear guards
    4 points
  8. So i live in kaiapoi and i needed a car to fit in with the locals. This came up for sale on trademe without photos and i couldnt get a hold of him, till one day i posted on Dirty South advertising and got linked to the sellers profile. Went to look at it the next day, brought it. Basically when i was looking for one it had to be Column/Benchy so we could pack the boys in and go for a cruise. It has been in one family for most of its life and i am the fifth registered owner. Genuine 194xxx kms!! Here it is when i first got it. Discussion Thread
    3 points
  9. The bigger of those two. I have the smaller one on my Circuit car and its not enough...
    3 points
  10. Started a new job for the summer and being an easy bike from home the Niva has been a little neglected, amusingly last time it drove we had to push it through the Mcdonalds drive through on Riccarton road because of flooding (surely another bucket list item for the lady ) sadly I couldn't work it out at the time, some gremlins for sure, so today I had a closer look, taking the air cleaner off I found the top plate of the carb was loose, that can't have helped! but while I was there I checked the float and needle valve before securing everything in place, for now it seems to have helped, idle is a bit rough so might have another slight blockage or airleak to find. Moving on the temp gauge was doing a few odd things so I pulled out my thermostat testing rig: All is happy, nice smooth opening, now to look at another possible temperature culprit, for some reason I've been loosing coolant, i've been passing this off as a radiator leak so made the call to pull the radiator out, give it a clean and see if any solder needs a touch up, once again all happy, feeling somewhat confused and being that I had the whole cooling system open I picked up some coolant flush and ran it through, on heating up the system the radiator cap started spewing out foam.... Left is the replacement Repco gave me when my original fell apart, right is the radiator cap from the 2105, that explains alot! pretty much running an open cooling system the coolant has either leaked out the top or boiled off, will have to start another shopping list from the Ukraine! Merry christmas everyone, hope you all have some adventures over the break and drive safe!
    3 points
  11. Man everyone trys to use the wrong gas to save on bottles/cash, just buy the right gas for the welding method and it works better.
    3 points
  12. Instead of cutting springs i did it properly and brought cobras + monroes which set me back 500 odd and gave me the same ride quality.. haha Took the hubcaps off because they didnt look dirty enough And on the R/F lower guard i fixed the only rust on the car but unfortunately couldnt find the paint code to match up some paint for it properly, even after the spray stores best attempts
    2 points
  13. And in I have put 20psi in the bags and the rear is about an inch higher and a lot more solid. Tomorrow is load up the family with all their crap and road test day. Exciting. DISCUSS HERE
    2 points
  14. i didn't fuck it up to bad. 2015-12-23_07-51-16 by sheepers, on Flickr
    2 points
  15. Put the front back together this evening and fitted my latest wheel acquisition, 13x7 Watanabe Falcon Turbo. See Steeb, I got "turbo's." The wheels are brand spankers - never been fitted to a car and date stamped with August 1980. IMG_7085 by Richard Opie, on Flickr
    2 points
  16. save the date.. Sunday 17th Jan 2016 (usual same weekend as Kumeu hotrod show) Place.. TBA (but probably massy uni Auckland again). I'll post up more details as they happen. previous meets deets here... click me
    1 point
  17. Money money money, thats rotaries. Keen to hear it screammmmmmmmmmm
    1 point
  18. Alternatively there is a bloke on here doing a very similar conversion on an EJ so take a geeze at his thread and snaffle some ideas. He is using an LH Torana front end. Build thread - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/47193-kiwibirdmans-1962-ej-holden-wagon/ Discussion - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/47194-kiwibirdmans-1962-ej-holden-wagon/
    1 point
  19. It will probably need to go through Technical Approval Committee. It isn't hard and they aren't unreasonable pricks as some people would have you believe. But it takes a bit of effort and you may need to ask CRS for some technical drawings or bring in a front end for them to look at. However the fact it has ADR compliance means it should piss in or it may just be a paperwork and tick the boxes exercise. I presume its bolt in?
    1 point
  20. An expensive (and belated) 21st present to myself turned up yesterday In time for Christmas, though Will assemble the head and swap it over Christmas, all going well. And in other news, the car is all back together and on the road. Did the Waipu cruise, which was fun. Also got Drive Inn to put a new centre bearing on the driveshaft.
    1 point
  21. Basically MIG brazing. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/brazing.htm
    1 point
  22. You'll notice the lack of sway bar link in the top pic. I have no idea how long that has been missing. We are taking the wagon up to palmy for Xmas tomorrow, so I managed to cobble together this junk as a temporary link using a long bolt, some tube and the washers and bushes from the old front shocks.
    1 point
  23. with the co2 argon mix the more argon the flatter and more penetration you get, I used straight argon in my MIG the other day aad it was nearly impossible to weld exhaust tube, it just burnt right though. I have an F size cylinder here, it was last tested in 1999 if you want to try your luck on getting it tested
    1 point
  24. right so. came home from the work crissy BBQ and painted the boot with primer. its been an hour since i painted it and its still not ready for top coating yet so I'm going to give it another hour then I'm going to coluor it and clear it. i hope i don't fuck it up again. time will tell. 2015-12-23_05-45-09 by sheepers, on Flickr
    1 point
  25. it most definitely doesn't have any road grime on it.
    1 point
  26. I think returnless system is something to do with simplifying manufacturing and maybe fuel vapour stuff or something like that. re fuel cooling. its much easier to reject energy from a hotter source e.g. you can reject the smae amount of energy from the hot thing to the cold thing faster with 1x hotter thing to cold thing, than 2x not quite as hot thing hot thing with half the energy (i.e. same total engery but at lower heat) to same cold thing. funny that the rule of this was discovered by a guy called carnot.
    1 point
  27. In relation to above, Common Rail diesel cars generally have a fuel cooler in place, buuuuutttt its always placed on the return rail back to the tank, rather than cooling the fuel coming to the rail. I think this is more credibility towards the idea that it's generally the rail that heats up the fuel. This way you're cooling it just after it's been heated, so its not hot back at the tank and second time around. Also minimising complexity of the high pressure side. Fascinating topic! ... ...
    1 point
  28. Wow! Six months or so since I last wrote about the Viva. This is not because nothing has happened. Things have happened but nothing big. Lots of little jobs, some of which have made a huge improvement. First off. The brake master cylinder started weeping out the back and down the front of the servo taking all my carefully applied spray can finish with it. Damn. So I ordered another seal kit and stripped the master. Right in the very first bit of the bore was a little bit of surface rust. enough that it had been wearing away at the last seal and it lost its edge. I gave the bore a hone, fitted new seals and applied rubber grease inside the bore at the end after it was assembled. Hopefully no more wearing. So that was exciting. Here's some photos of the excitement... see that seal edge all rounded off... Next up was to replace the front control arm bushes. The original ones were knackered. All squishy and deformed out of shape. These take all the loading when the brakes are applied. They stop the wheels ending up in footwells under hard braking plus they set the amount of castor. Quite important things. I should have replaced them years ago. I had the bush kit sitting in the boot for ages but it was just one of those jobs... always on the back of my mind, knowing full well it will be easy and make a difference. Instead I did an engine swap or two. Oh well.. better replace them then. The decision to finally get around to replacing them was made much easier by finally having a hoist. So up the car went and fueled with a cup of tea and a big dose of enthusiasm it was off with the control arms. The state of these!... But the new bushes were the wrong size!!! Listed for an Viva HB but blatantly much bigger in all dimensions. Not even a chance of fitting. So back on with the old ones and ring the suspension place I got them from, then the distributors. The bushes are for a Torana! Same designed front end but bigger to take more weight. Oh. But they located a set the right size internally and I'll have to turn down the outers. They can send them and I just swap the bits over. Off the phone, car off the hoist and my tea was cold A week or two later I finally picked up the bushes. Country life now dictates I don't go to the big smoke that is Nelson as often. Once home I hoisted the Viva up again, off with the arms, another cup of tea and remove the dust sheet from the old colchester lathe. I have not machined poly for maybe 20 years since doing my apprenticeship. Very sharp tooling was needed. I had to use some old thing called HSS! I even had to grind the edge on this oldschool tooling. The result was smooth and the size was now right. Here's some soft swarf.. Then in with the new bushes. Down with the tea. Still warm. Yay! While the car was up I noticed the front tyres were unevenly worn beyond salvage (Actually noticed ages ago but was ignoring due to $$$). So with car now armed with a lovely new pair of bushes I drove to Nelson, had some lovely new Falken tyres in 185/60 13 size installed and then got a full wheel alignment done. The fella at the new place I took it is well known through the Nelson car club for knowing his onions and he spotted as I turned up an excessive amount of toe out. That will be the cause of the scrubbing. I was also running a touch too much negative camber on the front. I couldnt get it any less so before I took the car out I took another mm out of the slots on the top arm allowing him to adjust it. Also a bit less castor was ordered as I felt I wanted nicer turn in, less weighty steering and I would deal with the old car/side wind float. When I picked the car up it was instantly better! He said the wheels needed 20-30mm of pulling in via the tierods to correct the Toe out!!! I could tell when I lifted off the accelerator in town and the car would roll further that there was a heck load less drag now. Sweet. This will equal better economy- not only fuel but tyre wear! Job two I have been putting off... This.. Doesnt look so bad and Ive happily ignored it. But no longer. I did this.. Then it was all gone. This made me happy. Third job I have put off. This one has been bugging me, and Hannah even more, for a long time. Self cancelling indicators. Or lack of. Ever since I fitted a new steering wheel boss for my uncles old Motolita wheel I have not had self cancelling indicators. Because I never did that 20 minutes extra work in fitting a little ring. I had kept the ring from an old Viva steering wheel. I cut it down, drilled two holes in the current wheel boss then glued the ring in place with JJ quickweld epoxy. Just in case. Hey wow. A throughly modern car. No more telling every single person who jumps in to drive the Viva that the indicators don't self cancel. Its often those little things in life eh. Here's some photos of the proceedings.. Oh and I did this too. I gt sick of the slightly sticky throttle body. The butterfly gets sort of jammed shut and makes it hard to squeeze the throttle open gently when pulling away. I added an adjustable stop to the pulley so I could crack the butterfly open ever so slightly avoiding the jam.. That is all for now. Im going to have a play with the ignition timing table that I had retarded a while back trying to chase that low speed vibration which I now know is the long single piece driveshaft. With the ignition timing back to where it should be my quest for better economy will improve. I did an oil change last month and went through the my Scottish book of mileage and fuel usage. I have some stats here.. 7374 miles I drove with the 2.0 litre KF V6. Over those miles it had averaged 29.14 MPG. Not bad at all considering how much of a thrashing that engine has had. Then I swapped in the 2.5 litre KL v6. I have since done 5689 miles with this engine and overall it has averaged 28,1 MPG!!! So with the extra 50 or 60 bhp that bigger engine offers I was pleasantly surprised at that. I figure it being its not having to work so hard to shift the car. I am still chasing more economy from the engine but realise it will never be modern car amazing when I am trying to push a brick through the air. But its fun trying..
    1 point
  29. Right, so the first step in testing the Wankel engine was to design and build a run in/test table. These are very common for R/C plane guys and there are plywood kits available but I wanted to make a table just for the Wankel project. The brief was for the table to be easy to transport, a decent working height, adaptable for multi rotor engines, able to carry all the equipment required for the engines and be adaptable for any alterations down the line (Tachometer, EGT sensors etc.). I then decided to CAD the table and because the old boy put the thought in my mind of using aluminium I built it around readily available extrusions. To aid transport the top is held into the main tube by pip pin allowing for it to be quickly disassembled (assuming I get a noise complaint and need to leave quick fast). The heavy items (battery, nitro meth bottle, starter) are placed near the base as to lower the COG hahaha, while the table top holds the fuel tank, engine and throttle lever (not in image). All the required items will be held in by O-rings held by small stubs similar to those “JDM” bumper mounts. Thankfully my good friend Tim welded the aluminium and did a mighty fine job at it considering the extrusions were only 1.6mm thick. I turned and threaded some aluminium bar to make the feet caps which are threaded into the swivel foot and will be pressed into the feet tubes. The table top was cut from 18mm MDF and will be varnished after the fuel tank and throttle lever is completed. I was also lucky to have Ross from the Uni’s work shop CNC machine an engine bracket from aluminium which will be held by some stainless fasteners. The image above shows the extent of what has been done so far. Only the throttle lever, fuel tank bracket, battery bracket, nitro bottle bracket and accompanying O-ring stubs are yet to be fabricated and welded… alas, I have taken my pretty time getting this far hahaha.
    1 point
  30. Turbo manifold finished. Made a start on the exhaust. Got a blank plate made for the dizzy, came out quite nice in stainless. 1/4'' stainless tube for turbo oil feed with swagelok fittings. Took so long to get right I will probably have to run the waste gate outlet towards the front then down and back. Well that's the easiest option anyway Discussion: http://oldschool.co....uss-1ggte-ae85/
    1 point
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