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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/21/15 in all areas

  1. Woodheads auto in Auckland did amazing work replacing the right hand-side chassis rail, as well as a new clutch. At this time I was working a lot and the car was stored at my parents place up north, So it only really got driven every now and then. Took it for a nice gravel road drive after spending 4 hours cleaning it... I replaced the door seals and a bunch other seals around the place, was hoping to help with the fumes, it helped a little but still more work to be done... Cleaned off the stickers on the front bumper, and order a new badge. Found some sweet leather driving gloves in a leather market on a recent trip to Italy. Ive never worn them, but they look sweet sitting in the car!
    21 points
  2. Hi Guys, Here is my 1970 series 1 Datsun 240z. Vin#: HLS30-10681 Build Date: 9/70 I will attempt to do a basic rundown timeline of how I ended up with it... 1970 - My grandfather purchased the car from his local dealer in San Diego 'Economy Car Center' 2005ish - The car got parked up under some carpet in his garage as he was too old and sick to get into it 2011 - My granddad passed away 2012 - My grandmother told me the car was mine as long as I got it out of her garage ASAP - I had the car picked up from their home in San Diego and all fluids replaced and the engine turned over - I flew to San Diego and drove the car 600 miles to SF, left it in a secure warehouse and flew home 2013 - I spent 4 months living in SF working using the on occasion - In December I sent the car to Auckland 2014 - I finally got the car registered in NZ after having to replace a chassis rail from battery acid rust. Here are some images of the Z in the states, before its rough trip home... Discussion click here
    15 points
  3. Yep go ahead and do everything you can to lower it and then when you finally put the car back together it will be sittign on the ground. Then you will have to pay more to get it lifted back up. Seriusly man, wait until you have then thing together and drive it around the block a couple of times and go from there.
    9 points
  4. bit of an update. My steering is so flippen stiff!!! probably should have aloud more clearance but its slowly wearing itself out. makes the valiant feel like its got power steering i also think the vw is broken or its got no oil in it cause after driving it around and parking it up for the night it only left these few dots of oil :/ and i also got a bit busy and done some more upholstery before it looked like this down the back it had these so i broke all the spot welds off and gave it a grind up i had a mate match up some pate for me in a rattle can, i then painted the blue and made it look some what better then i stitched a crap load of diamonds then glued a crap load of diamonds to the roof i also made the vw quieter. were the heater rails are they were just going strait to the back and going no where (cut them off ages ago) so to make it a but nicer in the cabin i did this cut the can in half and grabbed a couple of hose clamps i then did this. MY GOD!!!! thing is so much quieter!!! its amazing!!! um thats it for now i think.......
    7 points
  5. Just extend the shackles and do this:
    6 points
  6. Ok ... won't be put back together for a wee while yet ... In other news mrs had a cake made to match my SSR superstars ! Haha GA
    5 points
  7. Carrying on from my last post. Engine back in after all the suspension done Dusty photo of it all back together My mate Goob and I made a new exhaust, to get a bit more ground clearance. TIG'd a section of stainless pipe on the end of it My mate Graeme doing a bit of welding on the new collector section off the headers Ended up being stupid loud and sounded just as shit, so put a reso in and that helped, sorta Did a few drift days, ended up stacking it at Meremere after the fuel pump stopped working mid drift. Pulled a little to the right after that... Ended up bending a few bits, like the LCA bent from the gusset out Steering rack, cracked the housing and bent the rack And chassis Figured this would be a good time to improve a few things, so I begun the search for all the parts I needed to get it rolling again. Was luckily enough to find 2 AE86 manual racks. A mint guard which was absolutely rust free and most importantly unmolested. Picked up 2 KE30 LCA's which are 10mm longer than AE86 stuff and off to the panel beaters it went. Took it to West Coast Panel and they did an excellent job! Did more than I asked them to do and for a good price. They straightened and repaired the chassis rail, lower rad support and fixed the bent edge on the bonnet. These few weeks were pretty hectic so I didnt get alot of photos unfortunately. So here is the rail after a bit of paint Everything back in now, new rebuilt steering rack, tie rods, ball joints etc Made up some small alloy braces in an attempt to strengthen the chassis rail where the subframe bolts through. Battery tray now removed also New guard. Got the engine back in again. Bought a new RWD water pump from Toyota which has the proper thermostat housing on the back of it. RWD water pump pulley, top water neck and alternator bracket now also fitted. Picked up a new radiator too. Was sick of trying to find a quality alloy radiator, so I got this dual core Racing Gear radiator made by Koyo Bought a new front lip to go on the new front bumper, got a duck bill at the same time all from Mike Shaw. His fibreglass work is pretty good! Took it down to Meremere again, car ran perfectly.
    4 points
  8. Unless the springs are 1kg/mm there is no way they are going to come down enough, and even then it will be completely shit to drive. Someone fucked up, either you measured wrong, or they made them wrong, but they aren't right either way.
    4 points
  9. I wouldn't do anything more to the springs until the car is together and you have driven a few kms. The springs will settle.
    4 points
  10. Picture less update. Went to Hamilton the other weekend for a new windscreen as i cracked it on the way to Nats and it got worse on the way home. Got it done by Hamilton Windscreens/Windscreens Direct. Cannot recommend them highly enough. They let me be a fussy prick and get in their way and muck about with the trim and stuff while they were working. Plus they had one in stock! New WOF also, had to get rid of the bob jane australian allrounders im sorry Bart. Plus a wheel alignment. Handles a lot better with 8.5 deg of camel toe removed. Off to CHCH this weekend with the Mrs and 12 week old, what could possibly go wrong....
    4 points
  11. Its super lame the amount of time it took to do such a small amount of work but Im just excited that Im excited to drive 3.5 hrs to work on it hahaha. Plus I get to learn me some sweet skillz
    4 points
  12. hey Bit of a bonus, got the 2-1 pipes which i didn't know I was getting ! so fukin happy with them, going to be a blast with them on. This Thursday !
    3 points
  13. Yea something is a mess here. Usually the method for most shit is get the leaves reset flat (ie max) and then block it to the ride height. Usually flattened out springs still don't get low enough, but in some cases (as said above) they will settle and all sorts of retarded shit. Just turf them and 4 link it while its apart haha.
    3 points
  14. oh shit that really is stripped out, your missing several hundred KGs there man
    3 points
  15. The end of the cladding for the truck is in sight...................shame I've run out of plywood!, and so it seems has the supplier. The ply I'm using comes from the South Island so I guess I am in a holding pattern. The slide out holes involve custom making sections of cladding, hopefully when the slide outs are clad the grove lines will all match up. Even the smallest pieces present problems, access is the issue here as it involves a ladder and height. Along way down........definitely not OSH complaint. The thread has now caught up to actual progress. The plan is to push on and get the truck weather proof as soon as possible. Next jobs will see front and rear floors made and fitted along with the cladding and installation of push outs.
    3 points
  16. and whats behind sill number 2?? ah yes rust. chop chop!!
    3 points
  17. After bitching out on my wagon, I am now the owner of this. Got it with no wheels so chucked my Riversides and Mk1s on. A few plans, mainly more slam, and hoping to attend quite a few track days in this.
    3 points
  18. discussion here //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/45321-fletchs-1974-datsun-260c-wagon/ Bought this car back with me from OZ end of 2013 when i moved back here. Its pretty original, got it from the original owners in Tamworth, NSW. They were getting a bit old so it has slight damage to every corner. 8 seater wagon, factory AC, 3 speed manual an the column, electric rear side window. Pretty flash for its day. It belongs to my mrs. she liked it so i put it in her name. so i can get another one Here's some photos. When i first bought it Back at my place in qld. 2000kms from where i bought it. Only lost 1 hub cap and hit 1 skippy on the way Then i reconned the front end. Yuk Steering arms refurbed with new boots and a few pumps of grease I have had a battle sourcing ball joints before. Its hard to find front ball joints for this model or the earlier 130 model. One option is to fit the whole 330 series front end. I could not find a 330 front end without buying the whole car so i did a bit of creative engineering and reamed out my axles to suit the later, and more importantly, available, 330/720 ball joints Sorted!
    2 points
  19. The problem with 3 piecing them is that you're machining the stepped dish flat, you're getting rid of only thing thats ever cool about dish in the first place. The widened ones pictured look yuck with the flattened off face and gross bolts/studs combo going on there. If you're just wanting to recuperate some money, then 3 piecing them isnt going to be worth your while. Probably just need to take a hit on asking price, or hold on to them.
    2 points
  20. I have no doubt that someone could fab identical ones up just as well for a fraction of the price. All shops I looked into threw a huge price figure onto it and gave me a waiting time of a few months due to being busy, which is fair enough however i'm not in the waiting business and it's not something I'd want to nag a mate to help me with to do it on the cheap. I've done that a fair bit with this car and somethings you just accept that shelling out large is almost mandatory (which I'm all good with) 3rd option would be to learn how to weld and make them myself. However that can wait, I want noise.
    2 points
  21. 2 points
  22. Oh man that roof is extra awesome
    2 points
  23. i had new leaves made at archers rotorua and although i dont think it was intentional, they settled 2" between wellington and hunterville! loaded with shit mind you. i ended up having to take blocks out and even had to add a leaf to bring it back up haha.
    2 points
  24. So I finally got round to getting an oldschool car. Needs a lot of work as it is rusty, does not run and does not stop. My plan at this stage is to tear it down very carefully over winter to a shell with running gear, and getting it sandblasted and primed come summertime and the start patching all the gaping rust holes. Also, will add moar low and probably get the steelies widened/find a wider steel wheel that fits. Hood lining is mint, not sure how to remove without ruining it. Seats are in ok condition, carpets are long gone. Has many rusty patches but as cars of this age go it isnt that bad. Discussion: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/48006-guypies-1960-vauxhall-victor-f-discussion/ Pictures:
    2 points
  25. More progress! Got the top fully welded on now, chassis cut out and the bottom partially tacked. We are thinking of putting the airbags on the outside of the chassis, since they would be pretty close together if they're on the inside. Like the pic below, except the top bag mount will be about an inch or so lower.
    2 points
  26. front cap/bolt plate thing all welded in and ground down. patch for the firewall corner. I saw this on a thread on the samba, this little step lets the edge sit flat against the bottom of the inner wheelwell panel and the double layer of metal of the channel end cap thing. this is the patch now in place. this is a close up of the stepped detail and how it attaches to the side of the channel, this makes a nice flat flange for the wheelwell panel to be welded to. like this. Which is the other thing I've been working on, my patchwork inner wheelwell panel I started making this before the A pillar panels arrived and I forgot that the pillar actually came down another cm from where I'd cut the quarter panel off. Luckly it's only metal so you just stick it back together and add a little bit more. The curved magnet is a rare earth magnet I pulled out of a dead hard drive I found at work, Hole lee shit it's good! Very powerful, pretty hard to get off actually, wish I'd got some ages ago!
    2 points
  27. Hey, thought I would post up some pics of my project/tale of woe... It started a few years back when I foolishly thought that a rotary would go good in an Anglia, plus the motors are quite small so how hard could it be. So I bought this for the princely sum of $400 Then bought this intending to ditch the turbo and run it N/A Over the next couple of years I slowly chipped away at it until it got to this stage So it was about ready for panel and paint, however as I had been working on it I had found a bit of damage at the front end and it was only as I dug deeper that I realized how bad it was basically the front of the car had taken a massive hit and it had pushed both strut towers over towards the passenger side, as near as I could tell the drivers side had gone 30mm in and the passenger side about 20mm out. Combine this with the front panel being stuffed and the drivers guard also stuffed and the whole thing kind of ground to a halt. You can almost make out the difference in strut tower positions in this photo So I started trying to fix it but soon realized that it was a bit beyond my abilities, plus there was some other damage on the car that I was also going to have to fix, end result I started looking for another shell. Now somewhere along the lines people lost their minds and started asking ridiculous money for Anglias but after a fairly long search I picked this one up for $350 has a bit of rust but is straight and while I hate fixing rust at least I can deal with it. So this is how it sits today So in theory it is just a case now of swapping over all the good bits from the other car. So the specs are: front suspension is mk2 Cortina, converted to coilovers, Escort front brakes, modified bottom arms and a double sway bar. Rear suspension is reset and retensioned leaves with disc brakes (escort discs and Silvia calipers). 15 x 6.5 rims (trade me specials) with 195 45 tyres Engine is a 13b bridgeport, carbon seals, weber carb, gilmer belt drive, blah blah blah, s4 turbo gearbox custom 3" driveshaft all running through the standard diff I have some more pics I just need to get them off my work computer....... Discuss here //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/33014-matts-rotary-anglia/
    1 point
  28. After seeing all the sheds going up everywhere recently, actually since i started reading everybodys shed threads i felt like i was missing out. I decided on a farm style pole shed cos they are relatively good size vs cost mainly. Plus somebody would come and assemble it and be gone in a week. (weather, fishing conditions, fridays, depending..) I have gone for a 9x13.5m Flat roof, 4.2m at the front, 3.7 at the rear. They are made in 4.5m squares as the timber comes around 4.6-4.8m long and 4.5m is enough for 3 round bales wide as a haybarn. Couple of roller doors on the front, Should just have enough clearance for a hoist! First i had to clear some trees on the land we have just bought. There were 20 big as pines, over 40 years old that had to go. Their location meant i could not just blow them up and lt them fall. I got a local contractor with some decent gear to do it for me The first tree was one of the biggest. The grapple got ripped off the boom when it came down over the digger. yay. Part way through Total cost was a fair bit due to the effort of pulling the trees up the bank. Was offset by the 3 truck and trailer loads of logs that went to the port however. I could have got more selling the whole lot to the guys that do firewood but i didnt want a bunch of noisy cunce rocking up with chainsaws and wood splitters for the next year. Another problem was proximity to the paper road that is on the edge of our property. the previous owner was here when the paper road was new and planted trees in the middle of it so the road is hard against the far boundary and we get a free 1/2 acre. This meant the shed has to be in the middle of the paddock as the resource consent was for 5m from the boundary. Oh yea, despite paying 1000 for a building consent, the pricks who make the rules said i needed to also get resource consent cos its less than 30m from the boundary and i needed signed permission from the neighbour on that side. Another 1100 thanks. Anyway i got the ground cleared. turns out its not the flattest part of the paddock. by 600mm haha But it is nearly as big as our house! poles up the next day Then it was good fishing tide so they went diving for some crays and came back and did this in the afternoon Should be finished soon. Then i need 55m3 of fill to level up the floor and concrete. but everybody seems to be in some kind of rush cos its xmas. They all say 'OH, you want it done by xmas? well you see we are really busy, blah blah cost cost' SO concrete next year.
    1 point
  29. This is The Little Caravan called Daphne! It came about as we planned for our wedding and had a similar one booked but changed the date then the caravan couldn't make the new date. We then decided we liked the idea so much to build our own. Essentially the caravan is made to serve drinks at any special occasion or event. The person hiring it supplies the alcohol and we keep it cool and flowing to the guests. So we found a caravan brought it home and stripped it out. It had leaks and rotten framing to be expected from a 60's (we think) caravan. The building side was abit beyond my skill level and tools available so I searched and found a guy perfect for the job. He replaced all the rotten framing and lined it all with ply to strengthen what was quite a wobbly old girl Next was make an install cabinets for bench top to sit on Next was install bench top and the big one was custom make the Windows which took the builder many hours but using rimu did an amazing job and came better than we could of imagined. We used perpsex to keep the weight down. Next was my turn to tackle the outside and respray. Every trim had to be removed and resealed and countless hours went into getting it painted. Also our wedding date was approaching quick so pressure was on. So now all painted it was time to tidy up the inside, install sinks, finish Lighting and seal up joinery and benchtop. Me and my brother were still working on it at 11 the morning of the wedding....last minute but we made it...just! Now open for business! We have Facebook page active and the website is getting done as we speak. Enjoy
    1 point
  30. I've used Bateman, was super happy with what I got
    1 point
  31. Bateman was good. Just be clear on what you want, write it down and email him so its all there. Shit cunts be like bai, widen my 13x5.5s to 13x10s cos i want to be virtually beaten off with my facebook posts.
    1 point
  32. Nope, i dont imagine they'd get certed anyway would they? I always see Pine's wheels with 'for track use only' etc. Even if the actual wheels could be certed, it wouldnt be worth my time making them sizes that could run legal tyres. Im wanting them huge.
    1 point
  33. In other news hopefully we might get some rota motas along. Spoke to the fella with the blue S1fb12app parked near work. He seems keen.
    1 point
  34. That is the hotness, really really like it. Interested in a shoot with a modified one for shits and giggles one afternoon? You seem to be into taking pictures too! They're nice!
    1 point
  35. dunno, 55lb/in in a small light car might be ok with some decent DA shocks to get down the track.
    1 point
  36. Totally not snubbing you by not offering, we'll be arriving early and leaving early because other engagements post meet this month. Sorry!
    1 point
  37. I'd flip the eye leaf and think about yucky blocks later
    1 point
  38. Yea keen. Will be there Sunday night leaving Saturday morning. Going to Brockys Monday afternoon to scab some parts but otherwise no plans yet.
    1 point
  39. Thought I would do a small "how to" for Ae86/Ke70 Coilovers, to share some knowledge. Since this style of Strut is becoming pretty common in projects on here. This should also work for others, Cressida etc. Dont hold me to anything i type on here, this is my experience to the best of my memory. Double check all measurements etc 1. First of all you will need to pick which companies coilover “kit” you want to use. I decided to go with Powered by MAX in the end as I had some pretty good first hand feedback from people using them on there Corolla. I was also seriously considering these XYZ coilovers, before i decided on MAX. 2. Because I was buying them for a later model ke70 that has the same chassis as a AE86 but smaller non-vented brakes. I thought I would start with Gx71 Cressida struts. These are the same if not bigger than Ae86 Struts and have vented brakes like the Ae86 but are much easier to find and cheaper. 1983 Ke70 VS 1986 Gx71?? 3. Once I had these and the Max Coilovers. Using Clints handy diagram that i checked with my certifier. I then marked 60mm on the strut I then cut them off with a drop saw. I’m sure an angle grinder would work if your careful. After this you can remove all the paint of the strut ready for welding. 5. For this step you will want to pay somebody who is decent with a welder, to TIG them together. (Apparently it does not have to be done by somebody who is certified.) The certified engineer I used, welded right around the base of the Coilover tube, and then did 4 plug welds towards the top. 6. Once this has been completed you will want to get them crack tested. After I had already had them tested and painted. I found out that this MUST now be done by a certified Crack tester. Somebody who has the Certificate ANSI level 2 CBIP or equivalent. The only place in Palmerston North that has this is FieldAir, the aeroplane engineers at the airport. There must be others around the country. 7. Once painted you will have a fully adjustable Coilover, hopefully something like this? or better? Note: If you want to used the larger gx71 Cressida Struts on your Ae86/Ke70, you will need to also purchase some of Techno Toy Tuning’s hybrid Steering Knuckles and Roll Centre Adjusters. As the bolt spacing is a little larger on the cressida.
    1 point
  40. Boomerangs aint got shit on you ben! Haha
    1 point
  41. Seeing the sedan might be off the road for a bit getting its V12 I thought the coupe deserved a change. Suspension and wheels swapped over today.
    1 point
  42. Slide outs were tackled next, the frames have been fabricated in the same manner although a lighter gauge of steel has been used. The slide outs oppose each other and increase the overall width to 4.5 metres when extended. When they are locked away there will be a 450 - 500 mm gap between them inside, I don't see this as a to much of a problem as the aim is to make them easy to release and extend. http:// windows 7 screenshot This slide out will house a fixed 2 place dinette arrangement, the end of the table will lift up increasing capacity to 5. http:// how to do a screenshot on a pc This slide out will house a 2 1/2 seater lounge suite, yet to be selected. http:// free photo upload The frames are fitted with rubber rollers that will run over the hardwood flooring, the outer rollers are mounted on the bottom rail of the outer walls, these rollers will be of a much harder material than the inner rollers. Support details, lock details and weather seals have yet to be developed. The junior supervisor doesn't seem overly concerned at this point.
    1 point
  43. 1 point
  44. I love that little touch with the speedo. It's totally rad because the driver will be way too busy at that speed to actually ever look at it. Hahaha Though the OCD in me wishes the zeros in the 180 and 200 were flipped so the tapered end faced inwards like the rest of the zeros and that the 20 was spun around like the 180 and 200. But the OCD in me also wishes that television volumes only went up in even numbers and that all book pages started with a new paragraph so I could stop reading and know the next day that I could start at the top of the new page. So basically don't listen to the OCD in me - he's a dick.
    1 point
  45. An update,,,,with pictures.... Clambered underneath her to mark out the floor mounts, and found the floor didn't follow the chassis properly, dammit. so chop chop Remember its done with gasless Mig so it looks horrid. Heres the plates that the body will sit on pushed her outside, pics with the new 17" wheels on it
    1 point
  46. Carried on working through the joys of fixing more rust inside and out, finally after lots of welding, bare metalling and por15 I got the car to the stage it is panel wise now, the outside is still primer which I'll have to take back completely before I go further as its been on there for a couple of years now. After the mods for the drop tank and diff notch I also fully undersealed the car and all inside the guards etc and the entire interior/inside boot has been sprayed 2k black throughout. For some reason when tidying up the engine bay I decided to start shaving a few things in the engine bay and got carried away. This is a stupid idea. Don't ever do this. I suppose it looks good now its finished but the lengthly process of adding steel plate everywhere, then nutech, hours sanding the nutech and a final skim of bog is not cool it takes months longer than expected and will eat your soul.
    1 point
  47. Wow, can’t believe that it has been almost 2 years since I last updated this. Quite a lot has happened but unfortunately not much of it has to do with the car (well not this one anyway). So at the beginning of last year an opportunity to move to Nelson came up so we packed everything up and headed North, the car ended up in storage for a while so I used that as an excuse to get another Anglia. I figured I would post it in here as it is now sporting most of the bits off my other one and will probably end up with the motor in it as well eventually. Here are photos of when I got it. It has a 1600 escort motor in it that has been bored out and has 1300 pistons and a 234 cam in it, the rest of it is pretty much standard Anglia. So I cruised around in this for a while until the wof ran out and seeing as the motor wasn’t certified I figured that I would swap the suspension and brakes out of my other car and get this one certified. As things tend to go with my projects I also thought that it was a good opportunity to change a couple of things while I was at it. First up was the suspension, because the lower arms that I had made weren’t going to be able to be certified I decided to go with some new Mk2 Cortina ones, fitting Cortina struts to an Anglia results in a heap of positive camber which isn’t too cool but with some adjustments to the top hats it looks like I can get it back to where it should be. At the back I added some clearance around the rear leaf spring attachment point so that I could run a flipped top leaf, I had done this in my other car but don’t think I had any pictures of it. I also changed the shock absorbers to the stud type end and reinforced the wheel tub where the stud ran through, probably should have done this on the other car as it was a heap less work. Anyway with 1” lowering blocks in and my wheels on it ends up looking like this. I am pretty happy with this, it has a bit of negative rake with the back sitting lower than the front but I kind of like it that way, looks broken which is cool. I might look at some shorter springs for the front eventually but it is good as for now. Then I looked at the brakes, the front ones were ok (solid rotors and escort callipers) but I had intended to go for vented ones eventually anyway so I got some Capri ones and a spacer kit from Palmside to suit the M16 callipers and rebuilt them while I was at it. This is probably way more brakes than I need but eventually these will be stopping the rotary so I can justify the cost to myself. The back brakes stayed the same but while the diff was out I swapped the head from the 4.11 ratio Anglia one to a 3.9 ratio one that the new car came with. I would like to put a lsd in it but it is just a bit too expensive for me at the moment. So at this point I hit a couple of snags with the brakes, some of the brake lines that I had made up for the rotary unfortunately didn’t suit the 1600 as the exhaust is in a different place and they interfered, so after thinking about it for a while I decided to use this Wilwood pedal box that I bought ages ago for the other car but didn’t end up using. This may seem like a bit of an excessive way of dealing with a brake line interference and it probably is but what can I say, it makes more sense than having the pedal box sitting on the shelf. Anyway I made this mounting frame up which bolts through the master cylinder holes on the firewall and clamps to the steering column, here it is mounted up in my old car, which is really useful for this sort of thing at the moment, I will switch it out in the new car as soon as I figure out how I am going to deal with the accelerator pedal. I might try and tie it in with some of the other mount points as well, I’m not sure if it is ok to clamp to the steering column as it may not be considered structural but I haven’t found anything yet that says that I can’t do it. The only issue with this is that things get a little tight under the dash between where the reservoirs feed into the cylinders and a brace that comes out to support the dash but I think I can get around this with some banjo fittings, failing that I will just add some clearance to the brace. So I was also thinking that it may be a while before I get the rotary mounted and I was offered a 5 speed Type 9 gearbox from a guy in the Nelson Anglia club so this is the next mission, I have brought a fitting kit out of the UK to suit the Anglia, it came with an adaptor plate that bolts to the front of the type 9 box and a drilling jig to redrill the Anglia bellhousing and some measurements for modifying the thrust tower. Here is the adaptor plate fitted and thrust tower which I got modified at work (it needed the o.d. turned down and to be shortened a bit). Also while I was buying parts from the UK I got a new gearbox crossmember, this one has the bonus of already having an offset in it which means once the rotary goes in I won’t have to cut the floor and add new mount holes. I am still waiting on a thrust bearing spacer (also out of the UK) before I can fit the gearbox and that will be the last thing to do before the car goes for cert. There are some other things I have done as well, I added a bunch of gauges and the seats, mounted with bits of bent up flat bar. That's about it at the moment, as I said the plan is still to get the rotary in there, but first things first I want it back on the road. More pics to come soon.....
    1 point
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