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Johnny spent his afternoons and indeed the majority of his days pondering his existence and how he could become part of the community, not just his local community, but a global community. On a somewhat grey and cloudy day, he found himself wandering down the street near to where he lived, bound for the local convenience store to grab perhaps a baked pastry good. He'd not made his mind up yet whether that good was to be of a sausage roll variety or perhaps something a little more filling in the realms of piedom. This aside, Johnny walked down the street, each footstep on solid ashphalt more laborious than the last, Johnny wan't too enthused by walking, nor by pastry. He pondered whether he needed to make the journey at all. He did not. Yet, onwards Johnny went. As he approached the store he saw a couple of local ruffians and though normally they would give Johnny a hard time they seemed somewhat pre-occupied with a snail upon the roughcast wall of the dairy storefront. This as it was, Johnny managed to slink into the dairy relatively un-noticed. He perused the pie warmer for his delicatessan treat only to be fronted with a sign taped to the right hand door of the warmer that read "Get fucked, Johnny. Go take a photo of some starter motors connected to a blower on an SR20" ...and that's just what Johnny did. Just what he did, Dave, just what he did.

Been continuing getting some work done on this. Got pretty much everything bolted on and was doing well when I managed to snap off an inlet stud in the head. Bit of a pain in the arse, but hopefully my mate can give me a hand to sort it with an easy out. Did a round headlight conversion on it today, pretty stoked with the outcome! Managed to get a grill pretty cheap off trademe, the buckets are universal between square and round headlight then just needed to get some retainers. BNT couldn't get anything, so went to palmside. They didn't have any new ones in stock so got some 2nd hand ones cheap from them instead which worked out well for me. Got some new crystal headlights off trademe. Pretty stoked with the outcome. One of the existing headlights had had moisture in it, so needed re-silvering or replaced anyway. The whole conversion round worked out to be pretty cheap too, very happy with it.

Howdy all So as some of you know I sold all projects last year( apart from a bike I'm building) and to be honest I wasn't really looking for a he project. Anyway a mate rang me to ask if I know of anyone wanting a mk2 Tina.......I asked around and no takers........so fucking bang it turned up on Wednesday..... Even drove it of the truck So its 1970 ( I think) mk2 cortina 1600 super. Pretty much the least amount of rust in a ford shell I've bought in the past 8 years....even the ciggy lighter worked. Sat in a shed since 1988 So I stripped it down and cleaned the years off it Got up Saturday stripped the rest of the running gear and made a spit . mounted it to start on the underside And that's as it sits at the moment

Had fun meeting up with some friends at the Hampton trackday today! Some OSer's plus workmates made the journey down/up which was cool. Unfortunately my day was cut rather short by an alternator fault. Last night while doing some testing the Alternator main charge wire yanked a crimped connection apart, because I think there wasnt enough movement to the side of the body. So fixed that last night... But then it broke the alternator charge wire while out on the track, possibly for similar reasons. We got that somewhat fixed with limited tools, but it looks like the combination of abuse has toasted my alternator some how. Bummer! The good news though is that the car was running GREAT and pulled awesomely through the rev range. My favourite part of trackdays though when something's gone wrong is that I can just chuck the car in the garage and forget about it until I feel like working on it again. Rather than doing trackdays with a daily driver where you need it to get groceries or get to work the next day. Aahhh win some lose some... Better luck next time!

pretty much think that at least once a day about someone. i cant believe how useless a large portion of people who modify cars are. even simple shit like actually putting fuel in the tank is too much to ask i had one the other day. up to 5th recheck now, mostly for faults that were not fixed after id written them on the sheet, like fuel pissing out of a split hose... last one was just a road test steam comes out the dash, split heater core re booked for another day 6 weeks later cause busy rang and told him to meet out by the airport in an hour to do brake test< he said ok see you in an hour went there, waited, 1 hr 15 min passes rang to see where he was he couldnt get it started, was taking loom to bits to try to fix, hadnt even left yet, no phone call or text, so i drove from penrose to the airport for nothing. then had to make haste back to pakuranga to fit another job in just so the afternoon wasnt a complete write off then he texts 20 minutes later, wants to meet still, cant, at next job now wants to come after hours after ive finished the other job another 4 texts ''plz bro just want to finish'' etc etc hes going to get an unpleasant surprise on his next invoice if he wants to finish his cert

So I've been hacking away at this over the last couple of weeks, built a new much more robust manifold and improved coolant lines and a few other bits and pieces. I haven't taken any photos really, but there's this one from earlier in the evening Yuh

Hahahah oh man I had a hearty LOL at this thread, worth a read: http://z4.invisionfree.com/lexusaltezzaclub/index.php?showtopic=14381&st=0 EDIT: Posted in wrong thread but you get the idea

Finally legal . Now rocking Facelift Chaser bumpers, Hakosuka spoiler and a small tidy exhaust tip. Got some heavy weight springs eyed up to go low down.

Tell him to buy a bag of chips a lolly pop an ice cream and some beers. Rent a movie and watch it insted of wasting his time.

So we had a Bellair come in today for a cert for engine conversion. This thing would barely scrape through as a paddock basher.. Rust has been cut out but nothing put back in, steering was the floppiest shit I've seen (and I'm used to floppy steering), tie rods fucked, bald tyre (burnouts) front disc conversion with pads worn to the backing plates, no handbrake, some dodgy rear leaf shackles, radiator hose connecting the fuel filler to the tank, the rear brake line smashes into the exhaust, no hoops, g-box is pissing oil, some other stuff I don't recall now and on the whole the car looked like a beat up piece of shit. Some people...

just cause a compliance guy asked for this, doesnt make it correct. i had one the other day wanting me to write a letter that the rear chassis rails being trimmed on a chev truck was all no worries, never mind about the fuel tank and seats out of something else, tube front arms or springs been attacked with a bluenosed hissing spanner

So today this got its first 'proper' warrant, since deciding about a year and a half ago that i was sick of getting super lax wofs. and really wanted to bring it up to speed. this snowballed into pretty much redoing everything, and now it feels like a bit of an end of and era! there's still heaps of little stuff to do to get it looking mint, but now i can actually drive it, and bar a wheel alignment, it rides very very nicely, i am extremely happy, and cant wait for next weekend when i intend to drive it to Christchurch for the weekend, slightly unrelated pic

Have you bridged the pins in the diagnostic port and seen if any fault codes come up? or have a look through one of these and check out the vacuum diagrams or trouble shooting http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK2/default.aspx http://www.cygnusx1.net/Supra/Library/TSRM/MK3/default.aspx

You just need a FORD grille instead of a blue oval one and you'll have clocked MkII front end.

Finally had some cool bits arrive..originally ordered for Gemini and for LS build. I'll look at continuing the LS stuff once the Ute's up and going on current motor. Oh and finished my seat doubler plates.

Blue top 1G gets a blue bottom

Thats some good info - maybe a sticky? All of us wheeler dealers have issues transporting shit up and down the country with cunts asking moonbeams.

Also I think I found the source of the funny clunks at drag day when I went to change the driveshaft hanger bearing which was flogged and would have been half of the cause cant see that clearly in the pic but there are 3 big cracks halfway through the rubber doughnut and similar on the other side - plus there is a steel band that goes around the thing which I had added cable ties to and the band at the cable ties are all MIA. was new when I installed the supercharged engine, so im thinking these may end up being a consumable item...... so have a new one to install, and put a new hanger bearing on also spent some dingo dollars and got a kmac rear swaybar and fitted that (nice and easy actual bolt on/thats never happened before!) and a few euros/urals and got a lada niva LSD and 3.91:1 gears from our friend stig at ladaworld in denmark so will be install these in a spare diff head once I get the exhaust bolted up. such a twee little LSD

8 hours, oh ho ho ho ho ho try 18 at least.....more than half getting the alignment of and "tweaking" the secondaries to clear the crossmember and steering linkages which took many circuts of cut-tack-check-fuck-grind-cut-tack-check-fuck-grind etc. and yeah I follow the if you cant weld well weld lots school of welding, at least with my current welding machine haha

Since somebody took your last project i think you should 1JZ it....

This lol'd me

next meet... Scope Classic!!!!!

Ahhh so back to the VVTI thing. I wired up the MAF Sensor so I could log its output voltage to help tune cam angles. Then did a run at 12 degrees VVTI (minimum) then 20 degrees, 30 degrees, 40 degrees. If the MAF sensor voltage goes UP at a given rpm it's stuffing more air in so that's probably the best setting. Turned out a little bit different to the basemap, maybe because of my extractors/head being a little different at a guess. Plotted a graph, because graphs are awesome: So full 40 degrees advance from 3000rpm, backing it off to 20 degrees, then back down to 12 degrees by 6000rpm onwards. Interesting to see that the 'VVTI still on' curve kinda matches the engine's MAF curve on the standard ECU. But fully retarded cam position is still ingesting the maximum amount of air right to 8000rpm. The MAP sensor shows that the KPA values drop a few below 100 from 6,000rpm onwards so if I freed up the intake a bit ahead of the throttle body it looks like it would doort pretty awesomely to 8000rpm or more.

Really? I like the lower half fully painted. Currently looks like the kit is off a different car. Looks like a fun hoon. I'd love to do similar to my ae92 wagon but alas to many cars

Neither but oldman used to have a doctors stethoscope thing with the tube extended to a lump of copper that he could bolt places for this pourpose He reckoned it worked fine in the 80s lol

Yeah I've heard of using det cans and earmuffs. Not so tidy... but effective yeah? I'll double check the knock sensors. It might be that they have two wires. In other news I bought and fitted a new wideband sensor and all is happy again. I have pretty numbers to watch.

Got the old motor and box out today, managed to sell the motor to my work! Didnt get to pump the guards out today but stripped the other motor back down to send it away for honing.

Of course you can. Has anyone seen a ute with that nose? Seems to be vans getting all the love

I started to clean up some of bits from the engine and decided that I need to look into soda blasting to clean up this all alloy monster! Got these things; IMG_3572 Did this IMG_3573 Picked up this IMG_3581 Check out these before and afters, with the exception of the head - only about 30 - 60 seconds of blasting per item. IMG_3574 IMG_3576 IMG_3577 IMG_3578 IMG_3566 IMG_3580 Unfortunately it looks as though I need a new head - note the cracks between valve seats - but I really like this Soda blasting for cleaning aluminium!

2 wire will be better. as can isolate from ground. i run my amp of a 9v battery, as got alternator noise when powering off the car. best explanation ive heard re what knock sounds like, is someone flicking a sheet of tinfoil warped over top of a jam jar. some cars with noisy valvetrain can make it harder to hear, but usually comes over louder than everything else. when getting on the very edge of knock usually only here 1 or 2 ticks over the whole rev range. most likely to happen at max torque. when checking for knock engine needs to have as much as possible load on it. 1st and 2nd gear may not knock but higher gears will. loading engine up with the brakes works well, if you are doing it on the road and like your license

So I just thought you might like to see this, this is the only Torino ever entered into European Sports car racing, this is the 1976 Le Mans. Yep that really is a Torino going round a Porsche on the inside, note the look of shock and horror on the Porsche drivers face

you need a listening device to know if there is knock when tuning. anything else is just guessing. there is decent knock control out there, but only good for after the engine is tuned. engines can knock and carry on making more power. If you get to the point there are no gains in power from ignition advance, with no knock. that is best timing. doesn't mean its close to knock. you want to use minimum timing for best power. eg; if 25 degrees makes the same power as 30 degrees, set timing to 25 degrees. now if power is still climbing and runs into knock before you get to minimum best timing. you haven't reached your best timing and engine is octane limited. this will happen a lot of turbo engines running a decent amount of boost on pump gas. from here there are many options. without revising who engine setup, either; *Throw some better gas in the tank. keep advancing timing * On turbo engine, find the best compromise between ignition advance and boost * na engine can mess with the cam timing so engine makes more power at high rpm and less likely to knock in midrange ^ im talking full load stuff here 15's is usually good for most stuff at cruise. will feel power drop fairly quick if you go too far. no drama's running engine lean at cruise. will even run cooler. but no good for emissions if you care. need to find the compromise that works best if you care about every last drop of fuel. but somewhere 15-15.5 is usually a good starting point

A typo is just a typo man. But yeah this topic is relevant to my interests because I'm trying to figure out how the VVTI is going to be setup best on my engine. From the basemap it basically turns on at about 3500rpm, advances a shitload (40 degrees) by 4000rpm and then tapers off slowly to 6500rpm where it turns off again. I dont think there's any meaningful way I can measure whether advancing or retarding the cam more or less helps or hinders. I think 4,000rpm or 4500rpm is the rpm range where my intake runner lengths are working 'against' airflow, my fuel map is all up the shit at this RPM range! Smooths out nicely either side, but a big dip in fuel for a given KPA at that range even when VVTI is off. For figuring out best VVTI setting I cant go off the AFRs as a measure of anything. As if I add lots of cam overlap then unburnt air/fuel goes out the exhaust so it shows as leaner than it actually is, rather than being indicative of more air ending up in the cylinder. I remember someone saying that you need to get the exhaust manifold you plan to use sorted before you worry about the intake. This never made sense to me but I see why when you think about cam overlap. The tuned rpm of the exhaust runner length means you're either going to get a high pressure reflected wave arriving during overlap (which tries to prevent exhaust gas from exiting the engine) or a low pressure wave arriving (Yanks exhaust gas out, and pulls some intake in, with some going straight through while being unburnt) So it looks as though matching the resonant frequenies etc of both intake and exhaust (or making sure they offset from each other?) is part of getting some good zing out of an NA car. VVTI on the inlet side means I can shift the cam around to avoid the negative parts of high overlap (and resonance of intake runners) and benefit from the good bits. Dyno is only good option I think. Same kinda goes for ignition, I dont really know how to road tune it apart from creeping timing towards knock. But that might already be well past best torque. Either way I'll be taking my basemap ignition settings and fuel map I've sussed over the last few nights to Hampton on Monday, will see if it results in an inrease of speed on the back straight or not!

Someone tried to jack the car up off them would be my pick

I shot back to the Hotel where my best mate from the Uk had just arrived, "lets get food and some beers?" he suggested, "great idea" I replied we Jumped into the Torino and laid rubber out of the hotel "Faaaaaaaaaaaaarrrrrrrrrrrrrrkkkkkkk" he yelled as we slewed out into the traffic fishtailing wildly, "Chill out this is how all the cops on the edge drove them" I replied cutting off a surprised Prius as I blew a red light. I decided wisely it was time to bring things down to a slightly more sedate pace after jumping the curb at the next turn and destroying someones wheely bin. "This mother does not have any normal handling attributes at all I suggested, it understeers, and oversteers without any predictability, there is no power, and the brakes are laughable, how didn't Starsky and Hutch die in every car chase?" "Because they were fictional characters with a highly paid stunt team and modified cars, you Welsh fool" replied Watton loosening his death grip on the dash" "ah ok right, ok well this needs to last till LA anyhow, I'll take it easy" I said briefly seeing the Oil light flicker on the dash, did I just imagine that I wondered? So the next morning we arose, hangovers and jetlag in tow and decided to get the car checked out and given a more thorough service, "No worries said the affiable garage man, I'll take a look and sort it out, why don't you guys pop down to the bar down the road, where there is the best view in Colorado, come back at 4:30". " Great ,I replied see ya then" "Errrrrrrr this is a terrible idea" said Watton, for once being the voice of reason "we cannot sit in a bar for 5 hours and drive home that's insane" The Bar came into view, and yep unsurprisingly Twin Peaks was a strip club. "Awesome!" exclaimed Watton, pushing me out of the way and shoving his way through the door I don't think I need to draw a picture of the next few hours, I discovered a cider called "Angry Orchard" (honestly its just insanity juice!) renewed my friendship with Southern Comfort and made a new friend of a stripper called Brandy. All to soon it was time to pick up the car. "Do you think they will actually give us the car?" said Watton unsteadily as he picked his path very carefully across the road "What? I stumbled, why the Hell wouldn't they?" "Ummm you might be drunk, I'm definitely drunk?" "They sent us to a strip club for 5 hours, what did they think would happen?, its not freeking domino's is it?" "ok, I wont speak, you, you just make it so!" "Sweet as Brother, just trust me, I'm sure it'll be fine" As soon as I got to the garage, I felt awesome, rolled on in there, charmed the dude, grabbed the keys paid the bill, jumped in the car and rolled out. "Nice one said Watton , we pulled that off nicely" "Farrrrrrrrrk" I said as my foot slipped off the brake and we bumped over the curb Unfortunately this didn't really leave me with too many choices, There was a steep slope directly behind the kerb to the main road. so I could 1. Brake now and pray that there was enough traction on the grass to drive the Torino back on the road. 2. Put my foot on the gas, and pray that I'd make it down the slope backwards,and hope I made it to the road and didn't hit anything or the huge overhang didn't beach us on the kerb. I choose option 2 I figured the weight of the Torino would get us stuck trying to drive out, I don't think I'll ever forget the look of shock on the dude's face as we sailed backwards over the kerb and down the bank, Watton nearly freaked, and then burst out laughing as we made the main road. "Shortcut!", I yelled out of the window as I powered the old girl in a tight smoking U turn off down the road to the hotel. "Lets leave for Aspen early in the morning I said, I feel the need to get on the road and tear up some miles" Watton Grinned, and the plan was set!

OS BMW repairer Bart needed some electrons donated. I thought the Dai would work OK, cause the regulater has crept up to ~14.7V, but it wasn't happening in the 10 minutes we tried. Oh well, onwards. Better leads required?

Had paint out so added this so I can be cool like QCR

Been away for Xmas new year so now I'm back working on it for kumeu this weeknd coming. Stereo installed and wired up to car battery in boot. Different speakers with black covers in doors Graphics on door which I'll buff back for old look

Heres some tips for wheel spacers and adaptors, I get a lot of questions about them. Adaptors= bolt to the original hub and have another set of studs to bolt the wheel to Spacers= slip over the original studs the relevant rules are here- section 2.5 http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf note the maximum size for adaptors is now 30mm here is an example of a wheel spacer done correctly- fits snugly on the center spigot and has a ring which locates the center of the wheel, has countersunk bolts to attach it to the hub, longer studs so the nuts go on far enough. This ones not so good, and its had bits cut off, not sure why. Tyre shops still sell these shitty things but they are not legal. Adaptors have a few traps, more so on the narrower ones- commonly available 15mm ones have a few issues, 20mm or bigger is not so bad. The problem is, to fit a wheel with a flat mounting face, usually means there isnt enough material under the nut attaching the adaptor to the hub (some end up loose because the nut bottoms out on the disc/hub face) or the nuts are too short, and dont meet the minimum thread engagement of 'same as thread diameter', like this another common problem- often the tapers are machined wrong so they dont match the nuts. probably over half of the adaptors I look at have this issue. see this pic, the nut only contacts right at the bottom, so eventually the nuts come loose or are loose when I check them. Cheap poor quality parts are another common one These wheel nuts are from the same set. Mismatched sizes, wrongly machined tapers, tapers not parallel with the thread or in center, and poor thread fit on the stud are common to find with these. If the nuts or studs are a black colour they are usually poor quality

moto guzzi engine and tansaxel for your faiｔ

Making the tubs.. Used hammer and dolly to get nice rounded edges. I dont hink the escort suits sqaure edges so trying to avoid them. Tubs in..

Got happy with the grinder. Origonal plan was to use steel bubble arches and do a more normal build with 13" wheels and a hot xflow that came out of my old mans rally car but things changed. Decided it needed 15" wheels for big brakes. Wanted lowness so had to chop the rails.. No officer thats not modified at all...