Leaderboard

Cut the floor to and replaced with a bigger piece to fit a bigger transmission Drinking on the job.......Gets the job done

With last Saturdays gymkhana coming up with the CJC guys, A few of the boys (Cam, Chris, Ned, Ed and Richy) and I stuck in a couple of long nights and got it fired up on the Thursday night. Pieced the rest of it together on the friday night and took it for its first drive. WHAT A DIFFERENCE THAT FLYWHEEL MAKES!!! So we made it to the Khana no problems and everything went well. Well everything we changed did anyway. So next on the list is the bunch of things that went wrong on the day but thats all 15min jobs like the fan belt and speedo cable I have to install these aswell

Hi Guys I am Lance from South Africa, I moving to New Zealand in a few month i am hoping to bring my project with me. I am worried, i will only be able to take it over as a racing car because of complience issues. New streeting rack Electronic ignition adjustable control arms Gas flowed head Powerflow exhaust Engine line bored This is what i started with They changed the pcd to 114 to mazda front wheel drive rims. Car was pretty hacked about New tunnel welded Rebuilt and repainted diff Fitting the diff Head assembly Welding done to body outside Undercoat sprayed Final spray Car inside

Picked this 2 group La Scala commercial machine for next to nothing. Took all the side panels off. Looks like it will have to be descaled. All the crap it due to water leak which usually means tap water has being used without a good filter. Came from a country pub. Has E61 group sets [/url] Was told it wasn't working. With the side panels off, I turned it on with a water supply fitted. Pump started and sucked up water. Within a minute it was coming out of the pressurestat. Machine started to heat up. Both volumetric control panels worked with water coming out off group heads, Sweet. Turned off after a few minutes. Started to remove the boiler. url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=j4czxjf3.3rh.jpg] Boiler out. More tomorrow url=http://www.iforce.co.nz/View.aspx?i=xpadj43x.u2e.jpg][/url]

Trust me, i know my Hoshinos http://www.hachiroku.net/forums/showthread.php?t=13876

Ha its all good man, if you are doing that kind of resto and can afford it then a pre made factory looking loom is a good thing, and the way to go. Personally most old cars I have owned are not as the factory intended (switched to internal regulated alternators, electronic ignition, relayed headlights etc) and a custom loom means you can usually remove clutter and add in circuits you now need. Its the OS poverty spec DIY way, factory restos and resale value that hinges on looms isn't the norm haha.

IKNOWRITE/its because they are so reliable, i've never had to pull one to bits?

welcoming package at the door made a average day awesome! origional packaging and in absolutly flawless condition. momo leather steering wheel with red stitch and a boss kit. thanks to forum member 4age. biggest gc out. its all installed but the crap photos i got were crap so ill chuck one up tomorrow. goes with the black interior soo nice next up is some speakers and a headunit. some of you may have seen my thread looking for some recaro fishnets aswell. looking for some mint as ones for this ol' girl. prefurably black. just to keep with the boxy shapen and retro feel to the car. not a biggy so can wait for the perfect set to pop up really wanted to get into the PB drag club day on this saturday but have rugby so will pass it up. NZHondas is holding a dyno day on the 31st hopefully so will see a before figure then slap a HKS EVC in and crank the boost to 15psi with a fuel cut defender to hold back the factory fuel cut to 20psi, chuck in an O2 sensor and gauge, then put a progrsssing fuel reg in, something like a 3:1 should do and bleed it off till im happy i've been advised around 11.8:1 is a good sweet spot for 13 psi so will dable around there. thanks for reading again guys. much apprichiated. if theres anything you would like to know, or help me out with im open to all. just post up in my questions thread

Beave when someone says glass is a liquid they have to be told what's up.

Where did ya'll get them ram tubes? Also, I very much like this. You and me, we could go places. Prolly to repco, to get more oil.

Alright, So you have a sweet ride, but its way to Jack and you cant get no love from the ladys because they can Limbo under your veilside Side skirts. Well heres a little artical i wrote, And I hope you do it, note for note, but dont worry, Be happy. Anyway, Secondly, This is my disclaimer, follow this as a general guideline to what I have done in the past, its not gosbel, and if anything happens to your stuff Dont blame me, push a push pop. I would like to note, i Have had a few sets of these Certed in the past, But you never know what might happen, so consult your nearest Cert guy. Right, The fun Stuff. The struts used in this build are from a 1981 Toyota Cressida Wagon, however they are the same as pretty much all 80's corona's cressidas and the likes. Ae-86 etc are equally as easy, you just need to use AW-11 or AE92 strut insert, instead of the GT-4 celica ones used here. I always try and water blast the shit out of the struts once removed from the car, makes like so much easier and nicer, plus your less likely to drop a strut on your nuts. So you pretty much have something like these. Then its into the workshop, Where I recommend some fucken sweet beats, and some fucken sweet beer. I chose Deftones, and Flame in this case. Next, pull all the shit off the strut like brakes, hubs etc, the lighter the strut, the easier to man handle, Like your mum. I also find the easitest way to get two piece brake hoses off is to very very carefully, attack it with with a hacksaw so you can bend them open. I have never had an issue when it comes to putting them back on. So you now have something like this. Then its time to remove the dredded spring. Note, I would always recommend using a spring compressor, as It is safer and better than note. (however in this instance i didnt, So.......whatever) Once compressors are on (not shown ), undo the nut the holds on the top hat, and remove both, along with the spring. You can now choose to throw away the spring, or weld them to your roller skates for max fun. So you should now have a lovely springless strut, This Pics shows what happens when you dont use compressors. Shit likes to explode Next step is to remove the smelly shock insert. i find it heaps easer in the vice. I tend to use pipe wrenches, but you can use punches, drifts, hammers, All that sort of stuff. I would also reccomend putting a tray under your vice, as if you still have origianal oil shocks, its going to want to spew that everywhere when you try and pull them out. This in it self can be a mission. I tend to refit the top hat and give it a bit persuasion with a hammer. tray Shown here One shock top nut Shock coming out of its closet Once you have removed that Pesky insert, its time to remove the spring platform. I usually grind a ring round just just just above the weld, being very carefull not to cut major deep. Then its hammer time From here, you can see how much longer the orginal MX72 shock is compared to the new gt4 shock. Which leads me to the next bit. you need to figure out how much of the strut housing you need to remove to make this new shock insert captive. I do this very simply; Insert new shock into housing, Refit strut housing nut, (note, fit it so 1/2 to 2/3 or the nut is wound in, but leave a bit for error etc) Push insert all the way down to the bottom of the strut so the shock housing is max low, Mark it, then pull strut so its set as max hight, then measere from the nut to your original mark. this is the measerment you need to remove from the strut housing. (in my case I think it was about 57mm) Measure the length when its like this Next its time to cut your strut, this can be done two ways. With a drop saw..... Or with a grinder. If using a drop saw make sure its set up perfect, and if your using a grinder, I tend to find the easist way to get a equal cut is to wrap a piece of tape round it making sure it joins up square. Then grind round the mark. Magic!! ALSO! WHEN YOU DO YOUR FIRST CUT AT THE TOP, MAKE SURE YOU DO IT RESONABLE AMOUNT BELOW THE INTERNAL THREADS OF THE STRUT HOUSING Then mark the measurement you had to remove, and remove it. Also make sure to try and cut it to the inside of you measurements, allowing for thickness of grinding disc etc, otherwise you will end up short.. I tend to v the ends a little for a bit better pentration, something like this. next I chuck the new insert in the strut, put top part one, and fit the nut, till the two sections are meeting up nicely Then its the super fun part, tack welding. I have these sweet welding magnets, they help making everything nice and straight. Then chuck 3 very careful, short and sweet tacks around it to hold it together. you dont want much heat getting into the shock insert Then remove the insert, and finish welding it up. I then give it a grind down so its pretty smooth(like how I like to grind on your mum). This makes its much easier to fit the sleeve. Which now brings me to the sleeves. I use 50nb running tube from Steel and tube, its what plumbers use, can order at any length. I also got the nuts from steel and tube. price wise came to $65 inc for 600mm of tube and 4 nuts. You should be able to get away with 300mm of tube, Usually allow 150mm each side. Anyway, cut this to length, and I have found with the last lot I got I had to file the inside abit where the seam is, to get it to slip over. In the past I have never had to do this before, so not sure what thats about. I had to press these ones on, Which is probabaly a good thing anyway So thats on, then wind on both the nuts, as once you weld the sleeve you cant get them on. SO DO IT! I tend to cover the sleeves with tape, to stop any welding splatter etc to stick to the sleeve. However, if you do, can usually fix it with a hacksaw and a small file anyway. Then its sleeve welding time. Easy. Right, next is the springs. 50NB tube has a daimeter of around 62mm, and I have found that springs around 65 internal will be fine. In this case, i went to the local wreaker, and got some aftermarket lowering springs from a 1989 Honda civic. For $40. Next is simply jabbings these in, and seeing how it all looks, setting hight of nuts etc. But wait, there is more. The top hat needs a way to hold the springs. I happened to get my hands on some none threaded 50mb tube, so cut short lengths, just long enough to go atleast 3/4 of the length of the top spring so it cant go anyway. Centering them can be hard, I tend to do it by eye, and then weld them in with three decent welds. Always clean up the area to be wleded, makes for a Nicer job However, there is one more small job to do, and that is to make it so that the springs can stop turning on the struts I did this by fitting the top hat, and marking where the spring ends. then putting a massive blob of weld on. its not the neatest, and you could make a little piece of steel etc to do the job instead. but it works Then, fit top hat on, maybe do some painting on the welds etc. And put a decent smear of grease over the threads, will make adjusting easier, and stop them from rusting at the same time. Then just slam it all back together, Then fit in car, do your measure up and then, DONE! Max low struts at a max low price. So what did you need to buy, Strut inserts, usually around $130 if you know anyone in the trade etc. Dont pay repco prices, they are crazy 50NB sleeve and nuts, $65 Springs, $40 So $235 all up. I happened to get my inserts from a mate at $40, so this made my whole job cost $150.... so yeah pretty damn cheap. What else to note...... Not much really, I have found with this style of strut mods your camber ends up pretty bad, as in close to Possitive, so Some adjustable bottom arms or similar would go down a treat. As would some RCA's, as your now rocking 4 inch's lower than before. Also i have made these for a Nissan 910 bluebird, now in Hemis ride, Was pretty much just as easy. just needed to get some spacers made up to support the shock insert (I used gt-4 again) inside the housing. To a cost of $60. so still mint. Anyway.these ride pretty nice, Non lowered springs would make for a harder ride, which I have in my corona, And it drives pretty damn nice too, but to get the hight, I am runnign them un captive. Anyway, fucken done. Any questions, go nuts. Mad look out for more, like how to make adjustable bottom arms, and an Adjustable Pan hard rod. Seedy Fucken Al

so it happened again... along the junk yard i was wondering and across this i stumbled... looks like its had a hard life so far with its matt black hiding god knows what and the rear end damage BUT i thought i had better rescue it, prolong its life, and keep it having a hard time for a little longer yet. I've always had a bit of a soft spot for these old wagons and ke36s and the like so i kinda had to get it despite my ever growing fleet of old money pits haha After some discussions with the owner i managed to make it mine for a fair price. Turns out he got it in to use the engine as a spare for his mini stock or something so ive ended up getting it minus the A12. Luckily that suits me just fine as i have had a pretty decent A15 sitting in my driveway for a month or so waiting for something just like this! Monday it got forklifted down to my work due to the wheels on it not being able to even turn as a result of the extreeme wrong offset of the wheels fitted to it haha Tuesday i removed the a12 and in went the a15. Changing these engines is around one million times easier to remove/replace compared to the 1gge in my gx61! And had a good lol at the home made air filter - chicken wire, a rag and the end of a spray can haha This is the damage at the back. Hopefully be fairly easy to fix up. Also looks like i've already sussed out the spare parts I'm gunna need too - sweet! Then because i couldn't move the car at all due to the wheels this motivated me to get some tyres for my equips I've had sitting around for a while. I've gotta say i think they look pretty sweet on there. I'm really not a fan of the flares but they can stay on for now cos they are hiding some pretty horrendous guard rolling/flaring/rust holes on the back guards. Wheel fitment is near perfect without the flares on there too Kinda digging the rat look at the moment too, which is good cos i don't really want to spend much money on this at this point in time and ratty = not very spendy Discuss etc here - //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/39682-be4vers-ratty-datsun-wagon/

The Auckland Monthly Meet! Wednesday 21 August 7:30pm onward A chance to catch up with fellow club members, talk some shit and eat some lush foodstuffs. Burgerfuel and California burrito cnr of Robert St and Hurst St, Ellerslie See map. The DEAL$: $1 Spud Fries with any burger purchased! (excluding minis) 10% off everything on the menu with a drink! FIRST MEET??If you are new to these meets here are a few points that may help,Most people usually show up between 730 and 8 ish,We roll down to get burgers sometime around 8 / 8:15 ish. Or whenever you feel like really.We sit around either at burgerfuel or back up top and continue the yarns.Remember its always a casual affair , a place to yarn to mates and make new ones.An oldschool car is not required at all, of course if youve got one on the road then bring it and show it off!! Doesnt need to be flash or special. SOME OF THESE ARE NEW, MOST OF THESE ARE COMMON SENSE. WE WILL PROVIDE A FEW GENTLE REMINDERS WITH THE NEW RULES BUT REPEAT OFFENDERS MAY BE ASKED TO LEAVE.RULES AND THE BORING STUFF!! Basically these are in place so we have a fun and friendly meet and leave the carpark clean and tidy like we were never there. Take your rubbish away with you or put it in a bin, (Use the public bins downstairs not the private ones belonging to the business up top Smokers please don't dispose of your butts on the ground! NO ALCOHOL fullstop. Its a public place and the Police/security regularly stop in and we don't want want anyone getting in trouble, We also don't want people leaving empties around. You are welcome to invite a few mates, but please note you are 100% responsible for their behaviour If you belong to other clubs and feel they might be keen to come check out our meet then that's cool but please see EURON8 or BDA780 for permission before inviting them. NO Skids or Reckless/Dangerous driving Please leave a space near the fenced off area clear for the cleaners and dont block them in if they are there. Park in a proper carpark! If its full then just use a bit of common sense and try not to park to many people in. Newschool cars please park to one side and be prepared to move if we get short on space. If its raining and we have to park downstairs then new cars park upstairs or out of the way. The covered carpark is very small and needs to be OS only, If you have any suggestions or import for the meets then PM EURON8 or BDA780. Thanks!!

Another few months - another dead EFI pump. For some reason they die after sitting unused in a part-full petrol tank. So, quick escape from work, racing change into old jeans, and up to pick-a-part in Wingate. Only to find that every modern Nissan (like post-1992) has a plastic pump carrier that is different to the bolt-in one I build my fuel tank around. In the end I pulled the pump unit from a dead Skyline and lashed-up a mounting inside the old carrier I had. So, it runs again, and I can move it off my lift when I get the front wheel back on. Before I do that I need to get some dimensions on the front suspension so I can draw it up for TAC approval. 6th Form Tech Drawing skills will be called on finally!

It's a bit of a mind fuck as I have both G5s and 02s and have run them both as fronts My bad

Haha

I've worked for a few places that do rust repairs and I sometimes do rust repairs for people myself, never heard of any one ive worked for using a disclaimer/I havn't and never plan to. /Just do a good job It wont rust out in a amount of time where it would be fair to argue.

hell no, im not painting this thing. and yeh i got your mums pink hand bag. i had to give her a potato sack to carry my plums anyway, the rim bands were already matte black. looked like dog shit. spray bombed it silver. looks alot better. this is how you do fake wheels rota.. anyone got some 195/45r15's they want to sell? thats a 185/55 on there, is a bit big. cant turn.

NaN

Interesting, I suppose the shop still would have taken my dosh. Chur for that muchly. Managed to track down the old owner anyway, after cold calling the other guy with the same name in Dunedin, and he is going to post me a letter of sale. Speedo also was still working today, duno what he was on about. Just the lights and waiting on a letter to finish, whee!

You're going to have to arrange that with Kirk first. I accidentally double bounced a guy across the lawn at a party. I didn't even know him so I felt a little bit bad. I'm going to fill your sleeping bag with cats.

I can see the meet this time. Possibly if the title was in bright pink it might help hahaha

On its way today! dont know if its the exact part I need but in theory it will do the job ie pulling on the throttle and the two smoke cable at same time instead of 2 carbs. meh cost $12 only! PS am out of doghouse and spare room and now have a new clock in the garage -score!

Hi Joe, do you have any photos of the interior? Like the Gear 'Knob'......?

work has m10x1.5 helicoils! might be able to get this cunt back on track.

Probably going to be cheaper/easier to go with a generic hotrod wiring kit?

Yup that is the plan. Kinda more worried about the MR2 atm so focusing on that, so a basic clean will do for now. But sometime soon (probably this weekend), seats will be coming out. Hate to think whats chilling out in there considering the roaches and spiderses I found in engine bay lols. You should check out whats underneath your carpets! I found about 25 bucks worth of coins, broken glass, and a couple of matches under the carpet of my MR2. Also the wheels look poo currently, so will be repainting them for time being while I find some suitable rims for this. I'm not sure if I should respray both the rim and cover in silver, but definitely digging the white + chrome scheme on the car lol.

*waits for Broccoli to school re: glass*

This thing is meke as Fels. Import flare kit would be awesome but will not improve handling/RPMs more slam and lock then more track days gets my vote

turbo buick v6?

Aquired a couple of things to make this build progress a bit easier now. Boring new school daily to relieve the ute of it duty. Crown midsump and pickup cheers to Frosty which should clear the crossmember with minimal or no notching required Pretty much means I can start fitting the 1G good and proper now and get it running to make sure its a half decent motor, it should be a sweet runner, it has good compression and turns over nicely. If its running sweet then I look at doing a C notch and some other suspension mods to obtain slam http://www.oldschool... ... greatness

and i doubt he can save this car either.

Try Dion Taylor. 021 232 3276. He has a truck and is well priced.

Having a shed tidy up this weekend and found this inside. Still runs! Needs finishing! I wonder where the drivers door has got to. Better keep tidying!

Doesn't take much to make this shape look cool

this looks to be a very delightful car what engine etc you going with?

ALL INFORMATION BELOW IS PROPERTY OF OLDSCHOOL.CO.NZ, PLEASE RESPECT THIS AND LINK TO THIS PAGE RATHER THAN COPYING OUT OF IT. THANKS. Note: There are multiple ways of doing this, here is one way to do it to NZ Low Volume Vehicle Certification standards. Some of the things I have done were also done because I run a 2l Pinto in my Cortina rather than a 1600 or 1500. Shopping List: - Capri struts - Sierra lower arms - Sierra sway bar - Sierra steering Column - Tierod ends (cant member, check!) - Triumph 2000/2500TC steering linkages - Escort rack - Escort crossmember - Some round bar around 22mm dia and 200mm long is plenty - Bolt with thread same as tierod ends - Some steel plate around 5mm+ - Cap screws with low height heads - Tappered Reamer Step 1 CROSSMEMBER: Firstly the escort crossmember is not a bolt in affair. Between the outer edge of the engine mounts it is too wide for the chassis rails of the cortina. I trimmed this off bit by bit untill it fitted. (you will see what needs trimming as soon as you try to fit the crossmember in) I then used some 4mm steel to reinforce the mounts just incase mr certguy had a problem. The bolt holes on the crossmember are in the right place to line up, or may need a slight slotting but no major at all, one is slotted standard from memory. Step 2 RACK: Now you have your crossmember bolted in you can bolt the rack up to it in normal position. The rack will be too short to use as is so you need to use your 22mm round solid bar to make some rack extensions up. measure the length of my extensions and dia and update If you have a lathe you should make them in this, if not, a drill press and tap set will do. Basically all you are doing is making something to extend the length of your rack. This will screw onto the thread of the rack and also have a bolt sticking out of it that the tierod ends can thread onto. (Draw cad image once dimensions found) Step 3 STRUTS: I have used Capri struts in my setup because the mounting point of the steering arms are better suited.. Reversed Mk2 Cortina ones fouled and binded the lower arms and the steering rack before full lock of the steering. I have used mk2 escort inserts (I had some brand new ones that had already been shortened so was silly not to use) This caused me problems because the dia of them compared to the dia of the capri strut tube is differant. I turned up a sleave to sit in the capri strut housing which meant it was tight. I also have aftermarket roller bearing top mounts and the escort shock dia was too small for the strut top. I turned up some stepped spacers which fixed this.. Both of these problems would most prob be non existant if you just used the Capri shocks and cortina top hats. (that is assuming the shock shaft dia is the same between Cortina dn capri, which, is likely but not gaurenteed). I also grafted 4pot JFZ aftermarket calipers onto my capri struts which is not necessary. Capri calipers would be fine, brake pipe changes would prob be needed from imperial to metric. Step 4 LOWER/BOTTOM ARMS: I have used Sierra bottom arms and I think I have them swapped from left to right. They bolted up fine to the escort crossmember and capri strut. Step 5 TIEROD ENDS: I have used ??? tie rod ends which thread into the rack extensions one end and into the standard capri sturt the other. Well, almost... I put the tierods in from the top down rather than from the bottom up to clear stuff. This means that the tapper the tierods go into is wrong and the tierod doesn't slot through enough and sits wrong. The cert guy possiably wouldn't notice this, apart from that the nut is not on very much, but none the less it is not right and needs fixing. This is the part that took the longest... finding the right tappered reamer to match the tapper of the tierod end. Lucky for you I know what it is and where to find it but, cant member right now so will have to look at it and update later Step 6 SWAYBAR: I have used a Sierra sway bar (way larger dia than cortina) which in a Sierra runs behind the crossmember. I have turned it around so that it runs in the normal cortina direction but it will not quite reach the standard mounting points. Because we have Sierra bottom arms it bolts in to the lower arm side fine. At the front end you will need to relocated the sway bar mounting points. This can be done multiple ways but here is what I did. I used 2 small peices (one adaptor each side) around 7mm plate and drilled the original holes out so the plate mounted up to the original position. I then countersunk the holes so that a cap screw with a small head would sink down flush with the surface. Another plate was then welded onto this one with the right amount of distance between the new mounting holes and the old ones. This allows the sway bar to relocate further back, resulting in better positioning of the wheels in the gaurds, and also lower, making a kind of anti dive kit I supose Anyways my description sucks, Ill draw a cad file which will explain 10x better, prob take some pics too I guess Another thing I had to do was trim the Nolothane bushes down so they fit in the cortina sway bar mounting shackles. Step 7 STEERING COLUMN: I have used a Sierra steering column for a few reasons. 1. it has more modern switches and key access than escort or cortina, 2. It has steering lock, 3. It is a spring loaded wheel which will compress on impact, 4. They have plenty of decent sized wires on the back of them 5. They are easy to get and cheap. To mount the column I made two new hangers which are basically just L brackets with rounded off edges so you dont cut your knees on them while driving. The brackets will be differant for every person and where they wish the steering column/wheel to mount but either way they are a simple bracket which I simply bolted to the original steering hanger area. I have also put a spherical bearing in the firewall where the column passes through. This is prob not needed but just added to the smooth feel steering handling that I was aiming for. It is a large bearing from Seaco, will show pics and it comes with its own housing which I have just welded to the original mk2 cortina removable panel where the old column went through. Step 8 STEERING LINKAGES: I scoured the wreakers for ages trying to find a linkage with a decent UJ on it. The angle the UJ has to operate at is quite large so I wanted a decent universal joint here. A triumph 2500TC was the donor in the end and the UJ had good radius. The shaft however was too long. This was an easy fix with the grinder and welder, (shh, you cant tell cert guy this... make it tidy and paint it after). It is not cast so welding is no prob.. just make sure you weld it straight, I used a bird mouth technique so the weld was plenty strong. I will check but I think this linkage worked both ends of the linkage and caused no problems once shortened. Step 9 ACKERMAN STEERING GEOMETRIES: Im sick of this. Basically the above is fine.. Ill write some more tommorrow. ALL INFORMATION ABOVE IS PROPERTY OF OLDSCHOOL.CO.NZ, PLEASE RESPECT THIS AND LINK TO THIS PAGE RATHER THAN COPYING OUT OF IT. THANKS. Gaz