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I think read about someone fitting a 2ZZ head to a K series, I think if you google ZZ top you should find it.

With the freshly painted shell back in the workshop, it was time to bolt everything back in so I could put the car away for storage. Although I was in a rush, I had to get an exploded car photo, as this is the last time I intend to have the car in this many pieces for a long long time haha.

I can take what ever days off I want. Contractor life. Would happily be cruise down Friday for Sat and Sunday too. But don't think Hannah would as easily get off Friday. So Sat sun suits us betterer. If some from NI are driving down and heading down the centre of Marlborough to get to Hanmer then we Flat white and a piece of ginger slice Nelsonians could plan to meet you shandy drinking and a ciabatta with olives and salmon Wellingtonians at Lake Rotoiti. Then we cruise in convoy through to meet the bourbon and coke, steak and cheese pie Cantabrians.

I think you need to learn how to walk before you run. There is a lot of vodo when it come to engine building but in reality it takes about a day or 2 to remove strip clean and reassemble an engine, a k series should take not more than 10 hours they are absolutely gold to work on, so so easy. I spent the last 15 years of my life being a mechanic, and there is so much shit that you don’t have to know because you don’t need to use it every day . There is also a fuck load of stuff you have to know to be able to do your job properly and its never ending, every day I learn something new. but in saying that you don’t need to know every last specification of your motor, even if you could learn every aspect of building a engine and making it hotted up you still wont be able to do it at home and you will need an engine builder to do things like overbore blocks, skim heads, vacuum test valves ect. . . I am trying not to be too negative as I don’t want this to come across as a put down, but there is a reason that engine builders are around, they are there to make sure the final clearances are correct, to make sure the compression ratio is what it needs to be, that the cam height isn’t to harsh for the valve springs used. There is a whole trade based upon building engine and that is because it can take a life time to learn all this shit. My honest opinion is k series motor is one of the most simplest and easiest motors to work on, and if you want to build an engine and learn all that goes with it, buy the Haynes manual and an old motor and do what the book tells you, all the information that you will need to know is in the book, now if you need to machine blocks, cc the pistons ect that is what engine builders do, you can’t get around not needing them when building a modified engine. You also don’t need to know how to do their job , that is what they are there for , you tell them what you want to accomplish and they make it happen. Almost like getting your car painted, you know the colour they do the work. It only takes a couple hours to build an engine, 90 per cent of the time is cleaning painting and making it look nice, the last couple hours are actually putting it together, so go get a motor pull it apart and slowly clean everything. Then get a book. sit down and read it, then put the thing together. When you get stuck then ask us a question. Otherwise what your asking is imposable, almost like “tell me your trade, but not all of it just the bits I need to know”. : p ?

i just want to re-post this picture:

Yarp. I loike 2 fink me ave a way wif words an fink me nos lots of gargantuan words dat I can insurt into a centance making me sem to apere relly intelagent.

I'm with Cam, KPR = GOD of ITBs.

DATSUN MANUAL CONVERSIONS FOR EVERYONE YEAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHH!

I've got some engine books at home too... Bought them before I plunged in the deep end and bought a blown motor in parts to rebuild when I was in a similar situation. You're welcome to borrow them if you want to have a read. But yeah, I reckon best way is just throw yourself in the deep end. Buy a spare 7k and an engine stand, pull it all apart and clean it up etc. It's nice knowing the terms for what's what, but being able to visualise everything, knowing how big valves physically are, etc etc helps to no end in my opinion. Either way, the best possible advice I think I can give, is that if you are planning to rebuilt a motor.... Leave the one in your car, and buy a second one to play with. Keep your car running while you work on it, then swap them over and sell the other one, so it's cost neutral but much better than having a car off the road to 10 gazillion years when you inevitably find some complications etc. Also maybe dont read up too much on engines, it might dissuade you from the 7K

Discussion: //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/38004-mattescorts-1973-galant-16l-project-discussion/ This is my most recent project. I have purchased some Advanti Takashi wheels as a temporary thing until I find something old school Jap that I really want. The owner before me purchased the car in the 70's and it had just the one owner before her. It's in pretty good nic, it does need a couple of paintless dents fixed and a bubble of rust in the drivers side guard done. Also the top surfaces need a good cut and polish. At the moment my biggest priority is lowering which I am having a bit of trouble with gaining information about. The most drop that is on offer from Autoline Suspension is 1.5" in the front with King Springs but I really want 3-4". Any help would be much appreciated. Matt.

Hey got a bit of second hand knowledge for you that may be useful the company i work for uses merc vans we also have a v8 supercar mechanic working for us he's fitted the sway bars from the longest heaviest merc in the same series his van is shall we say terrifying to be a passenger in it grips insanely well and doesnt roll. if you beefed up your bars and maybe some quality shocks in the back to tame the bounce you should be pretty happy.

Replaced the fuel pump for a higher flowing pump (Bosch 950 to a Bosch 910) and a FPR suited for this engine. Not sure if its made an improvement but I can sort of rest at ease that the engine wont be running lean. It is back to being my daily driver now and im pretty happy with how its going. A bonus with this engine swap is that it seems to be almost twice as economical as the old motor (if that makes sense) As promised, skid vid. All thats left to do now is get it certified. I may be looking at selling in the near future. Weighing up the pros and cons Happy.

I hope Shaz doesnt read that, she may well want to shoot herself.

Shock mounts wouldn't be designed to take the extra weight/pressure I would think. Would need reinforcing at least

I like that law. And I like the way my brakes now feel. Cups of tea all round.

There are heaps of books on TM (such as the ones posted earlier) on the subject, and they're bloody brilliant. I bought a bunch last year, and there is a ton of stuff in there that explains how/why things work the way they do.

Down like James Brown. Poo, remember that shit for me.

Old shape guards and bonnet at panel beater right now being straightened and holes filled. Then parts are off to Mike Shaw fiberglass to get moulds pulled and good light parts made Yussssssss

Look up air helpers - they are little airbags that sit in the coil spring - I believe Spence has some in his Buick.. edit - this kind of thing.. http://www.suspensionconnection.com/cgi-bin/suscon/60789-eurovan-air-springs.html

/\ Like this train of thought Pfft fuck gay book... And only about 1-2 of those people will ACTUALLY go... Well at least buy the last 4-6 months/meets standards. If they all turn up I will NOT eat my hat

The 12R is not a good motor to do any performance mods to, they have terrible heads and are only 3 main bearing engines so you don't want to rev them any more than you have to. All of the above mods that have been listed are very conservative prices, there is absolutely zero support for these engines so you will have to get everything made custom. Best thing you can do with this engine is get it running in top order.Make sure it has compression, points, leads & plugs (cap and rotor if you need), clean out the carb and make sure the throttle shaft doesn't have to much play. Flush the radiator and make sure the water pump is in good condition and then drive it.

Took the Escort into friendly old school boys, GT Refinishers in Penrose for rust repairs. Seven days later and they have being busy.

Also, don't do 50 billion researches and then go to an actual engine builder and tell him he's wrong haha.

and pull a motor apart with its associated manual

Get a David Vizard book

Cheers dave. I know i dont need to be building an engine to talk to someone. But as soon as the engine builder mentions anything technical, i'll be lost. So want to learn about the terminology etc before i waste his time and get him to spoon feed me the information etc and me not being able to come to my own conclusions or really know what he means. I'm finding it pretty hard to explain what i want from this thread, so sorry if it looks like i'm not grateful for the information, because i'm very happy with you lot all trying to help me. I'll try one more time to put across what i want to know. I cant give examples of what i want to learn, because i dont know what i dont know. I dont specifically want to know the examples i've given, i want to be able to have a conversation with an engine builder before going to talk to one. I'll try explaining it in electronics. If some guy came to me that knew nothing about electronics and wanted to modify a mega squirt, i wouldn't be able to explain how to do things and give him ideas to ponder over, i would only be able to tell him what to do and that wont do him any good if he wants to learn. If he understands the difference between a transistor and a fet, and the difference between a P and N channel one of them, and knows what Ohms law is, then i can explain how he can modify his MS to run his own coil drivers etc and tell him what parts to use and with what spec, and he'll be able to understand why to use part x instead of part y or part z. So for a person who knows nothing, it's impossible to know what to search for. So if someone asked the question i asked about motors but he asked it about electronics, and he has never even heard of even a resistor, i would provide links on ohms law, transistors, resistors, capacitors, diodes and all the other basics of electronics. I wouldnt offer him help on figuring out how to use the RDS of the fet to measure current flowing through it. Granted thats a nice thing to offer him, and he'll want to know that at some point, just not when he doesnt know what a mosfet is. I hop that explains my position a bit better?

I'm intersted in learning how to measure assemble engines at the moment also. I just got out some car mans as they have some cool tips for measuring and assembly of motors. Figure if i know the engine inside out would be a good first step so pulled motor to bits, and in weekend went to pick a part pulled out a bottom end and and knew semi what to look for. new need to learn bout head

I would go to tech books/library and have a browse there. Grab one of their books (will likely be similar to those trademe links) then you can read and google terminology etc I would recommend finding a good k series specific manual - pref the toyota workshop manual - I have a 4age one and its been so useful above standard haynes stuff (which just refers to the workshop manual anyway)

I'm not sure you grasp quite how big of a topic engine tuning is. You could have a 10 page thread on any specific part of an engine, and the problem is that somethings work in spite of a certain modification so there is a lot of misinformation surrounding building high performance motors, as xyz may work for one joker but be completely rubbish for another. Is there any specific topic you want to talk about and we can probably give you the quick and dirty answers that you seek.

Ned, two words - Sheldon Rush

I don't know anything about K series motors but 3KB head and twin carbs bro.

Diagram drawings from gasket manufacturers like ACL are either super good or super rubbish. If the image on the website comes from the source file that was used to make the dies then it's great. I presume that they probably aren't though so this is a stupid post. If you want to check how (in)accurate your printer is draw up a 100x100 square with a 10mm grid and then measure it up with your calipers. I used to print sub-mm accuracte circuit board designs with a standard laser printer by doing that and then scaling to suit. That technique will be more than good enough for any flanges etc.

First inject it http://oldschool.co....jection-thread/ Then add ITB's http://oldschool.co....dies-itbs-tech/ Big valves may help http://oldschool.co....ersized-valves/ But I can't find the cam or exhaust threads at the moment with a quick search. They are out there though (on this forum). And have the engine rebuilt fresh with a port clean up (don't polish) and a bump up in compression according to what the engine builder recommends after seeing the combustion chamber. edit: I should really put up the twincam head thread and show you why you shouldn't bother with a 7k and should just go to something twincam atleast, but meh.. I know there's no point trying to change the mind of a crazy dutch man.

Right, motivation levels are high. Have everythign I need for manual swap except driveshaft (have a few leads workign on it for me however). There is a high chance I will need to make up some adaptor pates for the gbox x-member although no biggy. Also picked up a set of bike crabs from Denham, should be a bit of fun. I think i will have to run extractors (what a shame...) with these as the facotry intake and exhaust manifolds are botled together with a little flap inbetween so wont really work. (well I could make a up a blanking plate and bolt it on.....but is a good excuse for a nicer exhaust I guess) Onwards!

Cam - a friends AW has done 7-8 years with a 100A circuit breaker, so I'd suggest using that as a starting point. Only caught fire once (Mid WOF too, lol).

I dont mind either way so really this is a useless post

The Mazda engines I got all came with these clips and hoses so I just reused them. I can't pull them no matter how hard I tug..... Still not even touched the table since getting back. Can't seem to find the 're-scale' bit on tunerstudio. Want to rescale it, take a screen shot to note numbers, create a new 16x16 table. This time have a table with the right parameters ie Kpa bin that actually starts lower then the current one as the engine goes off the current map at idle, plus higher rev bins as current table only up to 6000. Amazed how well it's running on this table so far though. Had a friend who has a much better feel for tuning take it out and he thinks there is plenty more to get out of this engine. I've not touched on he igniton side and he thinks it's quite retarded (the timing, not my car..I think..) After all the town driving I have done in the last week plus with some pretty rapid bits and mainly pretty brisk averages I refilled the tank to see how economy was. 11L/100km which Im stoked with! I never saw those figures on any previous engine, esp the rotaries. On way home from petrol station I got stopped by police doing random breath testing. They loved the car They commented on how tidy it was and how quiet the engine was (of course unaware it has an uncerted V6 under the bonnet) One of them said "ooh the boy racers would love to get their hands on this" He he. I love understated old Vivas..

Rode this this arvo, it goes mean!!!

My mind just exploded with disbelief at this mornings discovery. For the past few weeks I have had trouble with the gems gauge cluster lights being very very dim. I decided it must be a dirty switch so decided to remove it for a clean. While trying to remove the knob from the switch the gauge cluster lit up!! Then I realised that in addition to pulling or pushing the knob to control the lights you can also twist it for completely variable gauge brightness. There are cars 30 years younger that still don't have this feature! Unbelievable.