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Seat reserved for Ed shaz and KK

So getting it out in the sun reveals a few very minor runs, and other tiny imperfections and some places where the paint went on a litttttttttle bit too thin A hangover from painting in minimal lighting. But all in all im stoked

hahaha. yeah. good things take time tho

axles came apart pretty easily, after grinding the welds back and throwing them in the press. wasn't sure if it was going to happen. machined them down some more and pressed back into place. will reweld chuck some new bearings on after the rest is done. cut the case for camber mod. once i finally got the camber right. i welded the shit out of the front side, using the shrinkage from the weld, to pull the case and correct the toe out. haven't checked it again since welding the case fully. but should somewhere between 1 and 1.5 degree camber and a bit of toe in. if not fail and start again.

Yep that hose worked primo with a trim, thanks! Yes that's the hose I mean - I have found one off an XF Falcon that steps down the right size but has a bend so we'll try it, and see how it goes...

The welding

FYI: DST ends at 3AM on the 7th. So don't get the time wrong.

April 7th, 3pm, at the Tower Junction Speights Ale house.

no worries, i definatly want it gone, and this is really my 'do everything right' bike, so more than happy to re do it. and cheers for the compliments! i do love how its turning out, frame really needs repainting now, because if you make something (tank) look 10x better, the thing next to it looks 10x worse.

It's so you have a place to sit Dave, I don't want you getting uncomfortable!

just wandered down and took a look at it, whats up with the huge paper mache cock on the front?

Prep for paint More POR15 purchased Mock up struts put in to test the new setup Done for now

Being nissan lego spec its possible an electronic speedo sensor from a 25det gearbox or similar will work

Make sure you get a lush socket set and power bar, you will be swanging off that bitch a fair bit over the next few years and a shit one will break into your nuts with the power of a thousand suns. Trust me.

So you can lower it some more?

So some productive productivity occured on this old thing today. Rolled out to Shannons workshop around 2pm to get cracking on the reassembly with Craig (vegie) rocking up shortly after to provide a knowledgable pair of L series savvy hands. In addition to the parts specified above, I also ended up with essentially a new radiator (complete recore courtesy of North Shore Radiators) various seals and gaskets, and a brand spankers set of ARP head studs from the kind folk at Pro Parts in Napier (hit up Craig there for sweet deals and AMAZING service). Step one was to scrape the old gasket from the block, as seen here with the ARP studs installed shortly after, to hand tight spec as per instructions. 2013-03-30 16.25.36 by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr 2013-03-30 16.26.13 by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr Those with eagle eyes will notice the front cover installed, which incidentally has been all cleaned up (not polished ) and the new waterpump in place. 2013-03-30 16.36.49 by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr The head, recipient of a complete recondition by the folks at Taylor Automotive - not the cheapest option but provided a written quote, stuck to it, and also pretty decent service. This head ended up with new seats, new stem seals and guides, as well as the usual clean, skim and pressure test. Apparently the valve springs were a bit soft - to be fair, this isn't a race motor so we'll be fine. 2013-03-30 17.25.14 by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr The head in place, timing chain gear reinstalled and timed up correctly. 2013-03-30 21.04.43 by SnoozinRichy, on Flickr This is the last shot I got - since then, the radiator has gone in, leads, dizzy cap and everything else installed and connected - about midnight we turned the key to see if it would bring up oil pressure.... oh no! The tell tale red light failed to cease illumination after several cranks. In the end, the call was made to pull the oil pump out (and the dizzy as they share the same drive) and prime it. With a further few cranks, the light went out. Following reconnection of the coil, the car cranked and started as per usual. Success! At this point I haven't got water in it, one of the small old braided hoses has cried enough so if anyone knows of a hose that reduces from 3/4" to 1/2" I am all ears as this is what I need. Otherwise, happy. Apologies for the super sub par images. At this point I must extend my sincere thanks to both Shannon and Vegie for their help, I'd be fucked without you jokers. Hope to be rolling on Monday Bring on Nats. Edit: also bought some new wheels. Again.

Have fixed most of the rust now and 2k primed it and just chucked a quick coat of spray can flat black on it for now as I'm pretty keen to paint the whole car some stage soon. Took it for a wof the other day only failed on a couple of tyres, a bulb and adlust the rear brakes which i've done now and kitted both cylinders. also pulled out most of the air con stuff today to make some room in the engine bay.

Drag bars and new grips

the only wires that were still visible in the engine bay were the plug leads. i had a few different ideas about how i wanted to run them but for one reason or another those various ideas wouldn't work. then i though about those old style tubes that run the lead inside like on luxury cars from around the 30's. i spoke to my friendly local sparky about the pros and cons of doing this and we decided it would work. so, here is what ive made. the leads run through the tube and out a slot that runs along the bottom. ive also made a cover for the top of the dizzy so you cant see the leads or the dizzy at that end either. the leads arn't in yet but they do fit down the tube (just). both the tube and the cover will get powder coated black. sheepers.

I'm happy with or without karting. Ned, I don't mind heading back to Auckland at 10pm. I have accommodation there and no way of getting back to Auckland if I stay the night anyway.

Picture time Tai