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  1. 75 points
    Righto. Exciting news. However I shall start where I left off. So last time I moved the car under its own steam resulted in quite literally its own steam, all over the floor when the heater matrix decided to give up. I swapped that out with a spare unit I had, replaced that seal in the clutch slave cylinder, fixed another couple of wee things and prepared it for the big drive. I also lowered the platforms on the front dampers and got the car down to a much better height. I may well raise the front by around 5mm later on so to get the camber a little less negative. I'm not a huge fan of excessive negative camber nor does it aid in handling unless corning at 9/10ths all the time. The car looks so much better low all round. I took some photos.. Now lets take it for a drive! This time I made it about 1 metre further then last time. Then I stopped to look for the cause of a terrible rattle coming from the flywheel/clutch area upon engaging the clutch only. I suspected the spigot bearing (which foolishly ...when will I learn... I thought was a bit worn but it would be OK..) Upon Hannah sitting in the car depressing the clutch for me to investigate the sound, the drive to the box stopped. Bug-ger! I thought it might be a broken friction disc hub etc. Same scenario as last time... push the car back in feeling quite a bit pissed off and this time we both went for a decent run. Get away from that car I thought! Proper exercise is my go to thing for instantly feeling happier So that night whilst in the middle of engine and box removal I discovered that the clutch slave had pumped out, again, and was holding the clutch in I released the bleed nipple and the clutch fork returned home So I now suspected two things here: Either the flexi hose had broken down inside and was restricting fluid returning quick enough so instead the master refills from the reservoir. So I had a new hose made to rule that out. Or was it the little one way valve within the master, of which I had made a new spring for to replace the missing item, opening too easily. Possibly it was easier for the master to draw fluid in quicker via that valve then refill from the returning fluid from the slave. Hence the slave was getting pumped out with each push of the pedal. It stayed out in increasing amounts by about 4mm each stroke! So I bought a new 'proper' spring whilst I was at the brake shop too. So there it sat- engine not exactly where it should be. But I do like this shot though... So out with the engine and trans. I made a wooden cradle this time which I lowered the engine into. It made it much easier and meant I was able to have the engine and box sitting on the large mobile steel bench and I could then work on it at a decent height. I removed the transaxle, then the clutch, adaptor plate and finally the flywheel. Gave all those bits a clean. The flywheel has been lightened quite extensively and weighs up at 6kgs. A standard item is about 9kg... Here is a good shot of the alloy adaptor plate that joins the box to the engine. Its quite nicely made... The spigot bearing was indeed pretty worn once I had a good look at it... It was indeed allowing the first motion shaft to just tap inside the release bearing guide tube. I bought some Phosphor bronze and made a new spigot bearing. No photo of resulting new bearing- but rest assured it looks pretty much like the old one but this time without enough room between its bore and the shaft to house several Badgers. I reassembled that lot and had a looksie at the transaxle reverse gear plunger... I was not happy with how much effort there was involved in moving the gearstick into the reverse plane. I knew what was 'grabbing' and had an idea on how to improve it... There is this lockout plate that rotates in an arc as you move the lever across the gate in neutral. There is a spring loaded plunger that has to be pushed in to select reverse. However the edge on the plate is very sharp and rather then sliding over the plunger as it pushes it in it digs in a bit. I could feel it through the lever. You can see it here... You can see scrape marks on the cone of the plunger... So I gave the edge of the plate a gentle tickle with the grinder.. I also took the corners off on the plate here... where they slide through the slots as you move across through neutral here ... Resulting in a much nicer shift. It will be improved further when I get a proper ball for my shifter and I suspect my flexible coupling at the end of the shifter tube onto the transaxle is a bit too flexy. The trans was reunited with the engine and slung back into the Imp. It all went back in nicely. This morning we re-bled the clutch system and YAY !!! It works better with the slave returning instantly. Filled the cooling system back up, having added a bled nipple on the thermostat housing which improved the bleeding of air from the system hugely. I'd also forgotten to mention that a fair while ago a fella on the Imp forum mentioned that my stainless tubes tat run under the floor should not really be touching each other all the way down. The hot one will heat up the cool one. Not good. I didnt think too much of it but it bugged me so quite some time back I ended up ovalising them which gave them clearance all the way down... I also made a throttle stop so not to break the cable... With that it was about time to go for a drive.. Success! This time no rattles from the clutch area, clutch worked fine, battery was good. Ran it up to temp and bled all the air out. Temp went up to about 80 degrees C indicated and sat there. It was a fantastic sunny and pretty hot Autumn day for a drive. All the smoke from oil spills, coolant spills etc burnt off. I checked the timing which was about spot on at factory setting. Gave the carb a tweak so the car idled nicer but it'll need more attention. It has quite a worn primary throttle spindle and I think that combined with that light flywheel makes it hard to get a super smooth idle. Enough is enough though. I finally took the plunge and did this....... I came back beaming. It drives pretty well. Wanted to stall when stopping, because of that lumpy idle. Has a slight flat spot down low but once on the secondaries it fair flies along (well.. for a Datsun powered Imp) It sounds much better then I was expecting. I parked it up and checked all the usual things. No obvious leaks and the fan came on after I adjusted the knob on the thermoswitch. Fan is loud but works really well- very efficient. Happy, relieved, excited. We both sat down on the sofa, had lunch and a cold beer and admired the little blue car in the sun. Yay
  2. 48 points
    The little IMP is now all road legal !!!! I refitted the carb this morning, hoping for the best but it was still terrible. I just couldnt get it to idle below about 1500 rpm and it had a big flat spot on light acceleration. So I gave up and we drove it to town, the long way through Kaiteriteri so I could have some fun on the windy road there. Wow its fun! Soooo much fun. Even with an engine that wouldnt pull properly, horrible flat spots, tyres that are definitely too high in pressure, a few clanks from the yet to be fully secured pipework, noise from the un-insulated engine bay shelf, noise from no carpets, fumes being drawn in through the old heater hose routing holes etc etc... it was still fun. It really is like a big go cart. The steering is lovely. Gear shift is great. Brakes getting better as they bed in. The temp gauge sat pretty much bang on an indicated 80 degrees C whch I reckon is more about 90. Fan only came on when we stopped, as expected so I was really happy about that. We got to town and straight into the booked WOF slot. Our local friendly wof man just loved it. Kept saying how cute it was, how neat the install was etc. Really impressed. Did all the check things as usual, test drive and it was all good. We looked about all the neat stuff in his workshop.... WOF attained and we went to the local council and got a years license. $47 - yay for old cars. Did a shop at supermarket, did the proper look back over my shoulder at my little Imp, sitting there in a sea of bland grey modern cars, looking sooooo tiny. On the way home we popped in to show it to another couple of fellas who run a nice country workshop and had sorted out the tyres for me. They too loved it and the older fella reckoned it was running way too lean and certainly had a big air leak somewhere. Then off home, this time driving over the much steeper longer climb. No worries even with terrible carb. No increase in temp. Yay for that. I got home and removed the carb. Discovered two things. Firstly. Spot the schoolboy error here... Yep- That accelerator pump can go downwards for sure, but not if the lever pushing it down cant go up at the other end! My air filter base was stopping it. This also meant that along with only a tiny bit of travel I was also not getting the secondaries to open properly. Easily sorted with a hole, some alloy and some epoxy. Second thing- this... There goes my air leak. Air getting pulled in through that huge split, past the accelerator pump piston and into the venturi. Well at least I am pretty damn sure that this is the culprit! Reporting back with findings soon.....
  3. 30 points
    Holyyyyy cr@p.... I just got a phone call from an unknown number, it was Stephen Fleming's partner!? She said he is the same guy and she said he most likely does have paper work for the car since he never throws anything away. He is a busy guy so she thought she would ring me to let me know the good news, that he is the person I am looking for. What are the chances. I can't believe that worked and what a nice lady to talk to too. Still can't believe it. I'm also being made redundant, which is less useful.
  4. 26 points
    Hello and welcome. Due to popular interest in another small bike endeavour, this year we plan to not do what we've done, and do do, what we don't done. This has been on the want to do list for a little while, but thought it was a bit hard logistically to link it up with anywhere else on small bikes. After looking at things a bit closer, it seems doable while staying off a lot of the main roads. There are some sections unfamiliar to us, but if Google says you can drive there, we can drive there, there is one place Google says you can't drive there, and we're still gonna drive there. The date will be 2019 Nov 29, 30 and Dec 1. Still over 3 days this route appears shorter than previous East Cape trips at about 540km, but I believe there to be significantly more gravel so your average speed will be down a bit overall, exact route might get some fine tuning if we manage to get some recce/expert advice. An estimate of the gravel portions of this ride comes to ~250km. Play along at home here https://goo.gl/maps/w5Z1CH4tkfX5SiyR9 ride '19 final by John Bell, on Flickr Day One, Nov-29. We believe day one will be the most taxing. ~200km. Starting right off the bat with ex rally stage Stanley Road. From there we head over East over an ex-rail bridge, through Awakeri and over Matahina hydro dam. Decent gravel stretch on Pokairoa Road, head past the Kopuriki store ,Galatea area, and further south to the borders of Te Urewera. Onwards onto rougher roads through Ruatahuna and finally to stay at Lake Waikaremoana Holiday Park (or nearby). 2019Day1 by John Bell, on Flickr Day Two Nov-30. This is easy day, from Waikaremoana out to Gisborne. ~155km. Hopefully some opportunity to look at hydro power stuff. Back roads, maybe lunch at the Tiniroto pub and hopefully more gravel. Hopefully time for recreation on getting to Gisborne. I'm not particularly familiar with much this days ride. 2019Day2 by John Bell, on Flickr Day Three Dec-1. Medium day. ~180km. We sneak out of Gisborne parallel to SH2, gravel on ex rally stage Whakarau Road in the direction of the Motu village. From Motu its familiar going on another ex rally stage to the Bay of Plenty coast. Through Opotiki, and headed back to the starting point via a few bonus squiggly gravel bits. 2019Day3 by John Bell, on Flickr Fuel is probably less available then up the cape, I reckon less people too if thats even possible. Less food opportunities also. Night one will likely be a frugal, quiet one, pretty sure theres no pub or restaurant there. Save party time for Gisborne. Theres proabably more to say, but its early days yet. There'll be a lot to discuss, but if you could keep the complete spam to a minimum for those looking for info. Holla at cha boi.
  5. 26 points
    Got the roof off, you can see how damaged it is. I reckon it must have hit something while open or possibly someone tried to pry it open from the front? I have almost all of the bits to fix it but I am also hoping to get a whole 'new' roof. Started cleaning out the crap from the floor, lots of broken glass. Not safety glass either, its in fckn everything, even the air vents and gearshift holes: It's all dry inside now, so pulled out the fcked carpet (classy 70's blue loop carpet): Found a key! (and some rust in the floor): Tried the key in the ign key hole but it snapped in there...cool. Coolcoolcool. That's annoying but it refused to turn with the other key as well which was also rusty. So no real loss, I was thinking I'd need to replace the barrel anyway. Also found this magazine behind the drivers seat under the carpet, lol: The steering wheel is weirdly bent: Cut the ign key wires because I wanted to see what would happen with power. Not much, although I can get a click from a relay in the back which must be the starter motor. There is a crude fuse box which is a bit stuffed so might explain why I don't get much happening. So out of interest I put some fuel in the carb, plugged in the coil that was inside the car and connected it to battery positive. Tried to crank over with the jumper leads straight on the starter but nothing happened. Think that spare battery is stuffed. Took the battery out of the 200sx and tried with that. OK so engine is cranking over again, but pretty sluggish and no sign of it wanting to start.... that was kind of optimistic. Ran out of time to do anything more so haven't checked to see if there is any spark. Have chucked the battery on charge and will see if it cranks over any better tomorrow. Maybe the starter is just tired or the bores are rusty, who knows
  6. 26 points
    small update on this, new engine is still a work in progress. New block has been bored out for the toda pistons, new rings acquired ( was thinking about getting something higher compression but spent too much already) Crank; the crank out of the spare 4agze block was bent?! Was over old junk by this point and brought a new genuine crank thanks @CorollaGT Head had 2 bent exhaust valves, which had no signs of contact on the pistons when pulled the engine apart, unlike the inlet valves. guessing i may have got slightly aggressive on the exhaust cam timing at some stage. Otherwise its fine. Done a little work in the chambers while head is off. Hand finished the transition into exhaust seats. previously was a small lip, knocked that off into small radius. plus knocked off a few other little bits . Assembled with kelford beehive springs and ti retainers, top side is even lighter now due to the smaller diameter of the spring and retainer. engine guy has the last exhaust valve, as needs a little bit of a zing to get clearances correct. Going to ditch the oil cooler for now. First reason being, it probably has bits of rod bearing stuck in it. also suspect it even needs it, plus is more shit to go wrong and it weighs something. so yeh mostly the last too reasons.. have welded a bung in the sump to monitor oil temps. before the sensor was in the sandwich plate for the cooler. tl;dr : found more broken stuff. spent more money. should be running again sometime
  7. 21 points
    Hannah got to drive it yesteryear evening. She loves it I knew she would. Hannah's first classic was a little imp super she bought in the UK and she joined the imp club back then. Did a few local meets in Oxford. This was her first drive of one since then. We popped down to the beach last night... The little car is going well but for a stumbling idle. I cant quite tune it out because the throttle spindle was so worn. So last night I took the carb off and stripped off the linkages... The gap is quite large! .... I'll keep a look out for a better carb body but for now I have to improve this one. So I went through my collection of rubber washers and found one to suit, which I did. Its a good snug fit over the shaft and sandwiches in neatly between the body and the first bit of linkage... Then the other end. Nothing to sit a washer on. So I dabbed a bit of automotive silicone on top and let it set. It flexes enough to let the shaft turn so its now well sealed... I have yet to try it out. The car is booked in for a WOF today so wish me luck
  8. 20 points
    V3.0 Bottom end All the ARP's Threw the bottom end in the car, before attempting to put head on, since don't have an engine stand. One small issue. 16v sumps are a little bigger than the 20v one that was in there. Hits the bash plate/ brace. will probably modify the engine mounts engine to lift the engine 5mm or so. cbf'd taking sump back off.
  9. 20 points
    Bought a Fiat 500D a couple years ago for the Mrs. Was supposed to be a quick panel and paint, re reg and enjoy. Had beers with angle grinder out. Discovered many cancers. Got depressed. Moved overseas and forgot about it. Moved back to NZ and it hasn't turned itself in to dust so I decided to get it done. Hopefully making a thread will motivate me to finish it.
  10. 18 points
    Stripped the Ute down for round 2 or rust work last weekend. Had to drop the steering column and pedal box to clear everything so that the rust in the rain gutter could be sorted properly. A couple before and after...rain gutter and also the drivers side wheel well frame (unsure of correct name) Whilst a mate was doing the welding I started to play around with the new Vitex timber for the decking. Quite happy with this. Will be oiling it and securing it this coming weekend. Need to cut down two lengths by 8mm each and we will be away.
  11. 16 points
    Sweatmeat. Need I say more? Come for the longest running o/s event. Just like every year, it’s the first weekend of August. Friday night shenanigans at the ‘Ding Hotel. Saturday attendance to the Swapmeet itself hosted by the Palmy North Hot Rod Club down at Manfeild, Feilding. Best place for speedway sauce covered hotdogs and Jag IRS parts. Entrance fee is $10 and Automotive only swapsite $10. Bring ya cash. Saturday afternoon adventures at TBC. Saturday night shenanigans at likely that same Hall we were at last year. $10 entry and the first 40 are in the meat raffle draw. Sunday morning at some cafe but if you were man enough to party hard then you’ll be in no state to eat. Book your own accom, sort your own ride. T-shirts and stickers TBC! Who’s ken?
  12. 16 points
    Hi All Ive dipped into here once or twice... summary of activity so far: Bought a white triumph toledo Taumaranui foudn that it was very rusty. Came a cross a virtually rust free Toledo body at Horopito which I bought. Stripped all the good bits out of the white Toledo and am gradually putting them into the green Toledo. Green Toledo is in a good shape which is amazing for these cars as they rust like crazy! Slowly sort of half restoring half reassembling the car. Up to the sage where I am about to put the engine/gearbox into the Toledo from the donor car - all going quite well just not enough hours in the week! Later in the year Im planning on painting the car and removing whatever small bits of rust that it has.. Quotes to do this work are astronomical so may well end up doing the painting bit myself - anyone have any contacts who might be able to help me in this area - not looking for a concours job just good enough to get through certification. couple of photos
  13. 16 points
    Got a new look for the Beat
  14. 15 points
    OK, so not the end of the story New owner has been busy with the pain gun. Interior is also partly re-done.
  15. 15 points
    i got a better idea, drive them to the ball in EA wagon, wearing your pirate costume, and ramble on to the kids outside the hall that the EA is a future classic and a high quality Australian sports wagon, and that they will be the most desirable car in NZ. then they will look back on that night years later, being like, hey remember that old pirate dude at our high school ball who told us EA falcons were the next Mustang? he was right all along. /ling
  16. 14 points
    Fleet expanded. Discuss - It's a 1985 Honda Crx, bought it for a sharp price. Its a ex drag hack from a guy on nzhondas Deanis from 2006. It had a feature in July 2007 performance car, yet to find a copy. Its best time down the strip in its hayday was 12.7 I believe. It had a high comp B18cr (kinda), quads, LSD box, super light wheels and drag radials. Current specs are aporox: - Poor man's type R engine - Non LSD box - Rust - No wof and Dereg, but has a cert Plans are: - De-rustify - Get it legal (needs at least washer bottle + motor, quieter muffler, 15 inch wheels, B pilar plastic) - Tidy up and add a couple niceties back in like carpet and a windscreen fan. Will try redo wiring and tidy engine bay. - Later - try add quads back, needs exhaust headers, get an LSD. Garage space at a premium Just fits Now to get it naked to make more space
  17. 14 points
  18. 13 points
    In the mean time, the old owner managed to track down the leg shield which he reported was fucked, but I wanted it anyway. Turns out my standards must be lower as its perfect. Perfectly aged! I also ditched the front guard as it looked weird as it had faded to grey and sat waaay to high. Looks much better without in my opinion. And to keep the barrys happy, here is my solution to stop me from losing the key (it is just a random key that works but rattle out when riding). Perfect. Next are plans to big block/chuck a lifan in. Not really going to touch the bike otherwise, as I like the idea of a originalish looking bike but with enough grunt to go adventuring.
  19. 13 points
    Something I've been looking forward to for a year, putting the front back together. Luckily my two boys didn't go and loose all my bolts, and lots of pictures makes it so easy. The paint turned out nice too which is a bonus. Now the front is all bolted up the fuse box & wiring can go in, then I'll figure out the ECU wiring. I've got new neighbors moving in soon, might be making a good/bad first impression depending on their tastes. Maybe I should hook up the exhaust first...
  20. 13 points
    Mrs and kids went down south to her parents place for 10 days over easter, this gave me the much needed opportunity to get into the shed and tick a few jobs off, and also fly to Queenstown to pick up the boomer bike and ride it home. spent a few days chipping away at some jobs on the rally car then got into the trombone. PPSC have a 500km ride coming up next weekend and i needed to get some auxiliary fuel and a little rack to carry a small bag with my wet weathers and beer. i like the idea of the center legsheild racks but im too jew to buy some so i said my goodbyes to the Wifes clothes horse, as i cut it up to get some steel to make this bent up a bit of a profile on one side, then copied it for the other side and it started to take shape. while i was mucking around with it i also make a nice real solid mount for my CT aux fuel can to snug in nice and tight on the back, this should give me some half decent range now with about 6 litres on board in total then i flew down to queenstown on a thursday night, collected the africa twin then heading north on the friday taking a pretty cool route to chch via hawkesburn road to clyde, over the danseys pass to Kurow then over the Hakataramea pass and up to chch where the GC @Chris.QCR housed, fed and beer'd me for the night, and also leant me some waterproof gloves which becuase crucial on the next day where it pissed down the entire time as i went up to Domett, met up with my father in law on his africa twin and then went over kaiwai rd to Culverden and up the rainbow road to st bathans, to his place in havelock for a quick cuppa and then to the ferry terminal. ferry was delayed and i got into welly about 11:30 saturday night and then made the last dash home to feilding. was just over 1600kms in 48 hours in the end, a great ride to get used to the bike, just should have cleaned out the airfilter in queenstown and i might have saved myself like $50 worth of gas, thing sucks it back! cant wait to rip into it and start making it look pretty. Also, i got myself a Blizzshop embroided patch made up for my vest after the GC PPSC aritst callum smacked this logo together for me, i got a bunch of extra ones made up if anyone wants one send me a PM and ill get one out to ya for $10.
  21. 13 points
    Made some progress tonite with my good mate Mush sorted out the cutting and welding for the pipes. Done !
  22. 12 points
    Hey, its been awhile since ive had anything to post on here have only recently gotten back into the oldschool game, more or less Datsuns, Well my weird obsession for them this being my 5-6th B310, Anyway. ive owned this Sunny for about 2-3 months now, and i have only recently started ripping into it after being employeed again. So far ive done the basics motor wise to an unknown car, Spark plugs, leads dizzy cap and rotors. also had brendan tune and sort my carb issue out and a new radiator put in, also a few cosmetic things, better tail lights. fender mirrors. I also have been buying and collection a lot of the interior pieces that have been missing or annoy me because the are rough, so currently in the process of putting my new dash in and painting the top of it, and found a small amount of rust which was better then i expected! bonus, and also getting the heatercore sorted for those winter drives, Here are a few photos of it so far, will post progress photos as i go, as ill use this a reference of where im at. -Michael
  23. 12 points
    So I looked at the prices of aftermarket pulleys and said to myself "fuck that, I can make those" so have drawn them all up and will be putting them on the cnc lathe soon. Idea is to make myself a set and get them anodised. Will likely sell these eventually too, have got fwd and rwd water pump pulleys drawn up and the alternator pulleys so yell out if anyone is interested. These are underdriven too. Nearly there with the design, just need a few tweaks to give some added strength and make them easier to run up on the lathe.
  24. 12 points
    Spent a bit of time checking it over. Under the rocker cover its super clean, no build up at all: Took the weber apart, fully expecting to see disintegrated brass dust and gunked up crap but look at it, it looks barely used! A little bit of dust at the bottom but that vacuumed out easily. The floats look new: Throttle plates move fine, a bit carboned up intake: Under the ramflow element is a bit rusty but nothing major. Definitely needs new foam though. Took the mild steel radiator hose tubes off, the top hose isn't too bad inside but the bottom one is stuffed. I'll make something to replace it. This brass outlet has turned to dust though, looks like it must be for the heater: The inside of the hose is weird...like a solid blockage of brass corrosion dust? Sprayed some more CRC into the spark plug holes again to let it soak while looking at the above then connected a battery straight to the starter and it bloody cranks over smoothly now! And the starter works, its pretty rusty but looks to work fine. The battery I used is a bit weak but it worked, crazy. I then flushed water though the engine block, it came out clean surprisingly. The radiator had some rust-mud in the bottom which looks like the remains of that badly rusted bottom hose. It fckn turns over with the starter! I wonder what the fuel tank looks like inside? ...not expecting it to be good. Anyone know what this number means? I already know/think its a 'sport/GT spec' based on the L3 stamp but not sure what this means.
  25. 12 points
    I've gone front to back replacing all the old low pressure fuel hoses. I chopped the engine bay fuel lines a foot shorter to tidy it up, and I found a nice spot underneath for the filter. The fuel tank pickup hole is tiny at 45mm, but I've managed to fit the new electric pump to the pickup and squeeze it through. I've ordered a bulkhead terminal for power, then it's just pump wiring and the fuel system is sorted... Thanks for watching!
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