Do you have nerdy thoughts?

Nerdy thoughts that you're afraid to tell your freinds in regular spam, for fear of judgement?

Sometimes, do you just want to yell MATE YOU CANT USE GRADE 4.6 FOR THAT MATE! MAAAAATTTEEEE.

Welcome!
 

The jug has boiled, it's temperature is 338k which is still less than 0.2 standard deviations from ideal brewing temperature.

So feel free to make an optimal cup of tea within the next 65000 milliseconds.



 

Cheers Ivan

I decided to solve my rear tyre rub issues properly by cutting out the offending sheetmetal, which will be replaced by 1.6mm trailer guard material. I've cut the inner guard approx 25-30mm up from the lip, which will butt into the inner of the trailer guard. Car is fully painted/finished so need to be careful to avoid massively screwing up the exterior. Inside the car it's not in a noticeable area so I'm confident I can tidy it up. 

Was thinking something like this;

A few questions I have before I embark

1. Can either Tig or Mig it - which process produces less heat? Mig? Any tips/tricks? Planning on a few stitches in the sensitive areas, then panel bond/seam sealer on both sides. 

2. Also after experience/opinions on heat sink options to draw heat away from the paint;

• Welders Putty/heat blocker? 
• Wet cotton pillowcase full of wet sand?? 
• Wet cloth/towels?
• Any others?

Thanks in advance for your help!

This document has been prepared by the LTSA for the use of vehicle inspectors and inspecting organisations to aid in achieving correct and consistent standards of in service inspection and certification (WoF & CoF) http://www.ltsa.govt.nz/publications/vir-manual/#general

Basicaly this means that your car must comply with everything listed on this page to get a WOF, if this page says you need a LVV certification, try this link for more information:

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/newindex3.html

Hope this helps,

Si

admins any chance of stickying this thread or making a usefull links thread?

There are a couple of things i want to do with my truck project;

1. There is a 24-12v DC converter that is powered all the time for 12v stuff that needs constant power. In my head this will mean a low level draw on the batteries all the time. To counteract this i want a solar trickle charger to keep things maintained.

2. I kindof want to fit a little Waeco thermoelectric fridge. I know these are not the most efficient way of cooling or heating, but I thought potentially this could run off whatever solar stuff there is for the charging to reduce the load on the batteries.

https://www.marine-deals.co.nz/fridges-freezers/dometic-coolpro-tc-14-portable-cooler-and-warmer-14l?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpLfzBRCRARIsAHuj6qWfh9Xj9fkXAblzvmD9QWgCPuz8AlB-Jo0KGOx0v1OD5g5kxMgnyFQaAuqIEALw_wcB

64W/3.8A

This one is a compressor fridge, much better

https://nz.adventurekings.com/15l-centre-console-fridge-adventure-kings.html?gclid=Cj0KCQjwpLfzBRCRARIsAHuj6qWtbgm8ghuMKQ9qFTA2VfeBWpJKEjlNGI68OQjRPjdr5BZtK1UQjB8aAmQ7EALw_wcB

1.9A@24v

Bear in mind the truck is all 24v.

So what i want to know is can I just set up a 36v solar panel and charge controller and use the truck lead acid batteries as the storage? ie mostly use the solar system as the charger, but use the load terminals on the controller to run the fridge...

This is basically to save the weight and cost of 2x batteries that would normally be dedicated to the solar setup.

I also have a 12v or 24v load switching relay that can automatically deal with sharing power between the house and start batteries if so required.

Do I need to isolate this system during starting?

Will the truck batteries deal with running the fridge overnight and still work the next day?

Am I an ignorant fuck who has no real appreciation for the issues surrounding doing something like this?

I've got a couple pair old rims that came off a rwd 323 monks ago.

One on left supposedly SSR SS Mk2,

One on right Bridgestone Zona Special Stage 1.

All steel hardware, looks like machined drums/ barrels,  centres look cast, then machined. 6 point heads on zonas, pretty sure I see seems. 

Help appreciated. 

Jay

I have what I suspect are " type3",s,       I have  uploading pics in the hopes old school enthusiasts can help accurately identify.

Also, they've been sitting in the box they came in 10 yrs ago as bought off TM. The butterflies have gummed up onto choke walls via fuel residue. 

Will a shallow diesel soak just covering butterflies be ok? won't harm anything?

Advice appreciated.

Jay.

Rather than me starting a new thread for each question I come up with as my project progresses I will instead just keep coming back to this thread. In fact I think the answers to the questions I ask could be quite useful to others who might be keen on going the fuel injection way. Im asking on here as there seems to be plenty who have experience with this stuff going into old cars.

First question is,

What is phased ignition? I have been looking at various ECUs and some state this being included.

example from the Gotech website on the pro x ECU......

- 4, 6 and eight Cylinder, One coil and two injector outputs with trigger per event input

- 4 Cylinder, Two coil and Two injector outputs with crank trigger (60-2, 36-1, 12-1)

- 6 Cylinder, Three coil and three injector outputs with crank trigger (60-2)

- 4 Cylinder, Full sequential Four coil and four injector output (60 -2 plus hall effect TDC)

- 6 Cylinder, Full sequential fuelling and phased ignition (60 -2 plus hall effect TDC)

And the injector outputs- what does the number of outputs refer to?

Second question is,

When you get a aftermarket ECU and it comes with a base map for starting, how easy is it to then tune the ECU without the use of a rolling road?

What I'm picturing is Hannah driving the Viva while I sit in passenger seat and 'tune' things. I realise it will take a long time but is it easy enough to do with most of the supplies softwares if you understand the basics of car tuning. I can happily set carbs, go for a drive and know whats happening and if its running lean, rich, ignition timing is out etc. This stuff I know fairly well.

What I'm hoping is that I would be able to just sit there while the car is driving, open the appropriate software window and adjust the fuelling map, ignition map to suit. Is it that easy?

Third question,

What sort of airflow meters do most ECUs support?

I realise that a hotwire maf or a map sensor will offer far less restriction than my current 'sliding dutchcap' ( well it looks like a dutch cap) VAF but I have read that the VAF is much more accurate and better for fuel economy? If I go to a map sensor or hotwire sensor then is it just a case of getting a sensor and plumbing it in place then wiring it all up to the new ECU and starting on a base map? Or is there more involved with map sensors as they use some sort of logorithmiculculas table to work out airflow based on the pressure, air temp and TPS hence need rolling road time?

Fourth question,

Would aftermarket ECUs come with an option to control a step motor or some solenoids at certain preset rev points? I fancy making a inlet manifold with variable length velocity stacks inside the plenum ala F1 so I can maximise my torque etc.

In my pursuit of power (lol), I have had to remove my air conditioning lines to make way for a bigger intercooler. 

The old condenser was a bit munted, so that has also been changed for a new unit, along with a new drier. 

So all I need is a few new lines made up, unit oiled and gassed. 

Any suggestions?

Share them here 

1. Vacuum is a definite must have to suck the dust out and take it outside the environment. My next mod will be a 20l container to help separate the dust before it gets into the vac, as you have to stop and clean the filter regularly 

2. I put a water trap on the cabinet, this stops 90% of the water getting blown onto your blasted part . This worked much better at the cabinet end of the air hose 

3. The lamp they come with sucks and any lamp you put inside gets munted from the sand quickly so I just got a $20 bunnings led work lamp and put it on the outside of the window

4. Dust sticks to the window pretty quickly so you have to stop and clean it all the time. I started to use meguiars quick detailer spray wax stuff and that stops the shit sticking to the window, I hardly have to clean it any more  

5. You need a decent compressor,  I got a twin cyl belt drive one that is 190lpm and it keeps up fine  

On the more complicated level, watched this video for casting replacement indicator lights from resin was bloody cool.
So good! 
 

The one thing that absolutely terrifies my about my older cars, is busting a tail light. They simply dont exist anymore. 
It's some level of comfort to imagine it might be possible to cast a replacement.

That's all for now, as I've not actually cast anything myself! 
But hope to cast some useful parts over next few months hopefully.
If anyone's cast some cool shit, feel free to post it up I would love to see it.

Cheers, VG.

I have an expansion loom that plugs into the 4th optional plug, can I configure one of those pins to be the 4th direct fire signal? or are the original functions of the g4x baked-in and unable to be relocated to the expansion loom? 

probably  been asked before but my searches aint delivering 

been a while since iv had access to cad software (previously done a bit with  auto desk for electrical drawings)

Whats the go to for home use modelling software thats user friendly  and not "one million dollars" *insert dr evil*  a year?

looking for ability  to 2d/3d model good enough to  3d print prototypes brackets (guess il be going down the i need a 3d printer wormhole) & send files for cnc machining /cutting

have a top model HP envy laptop so  shouldn't have a problem running most software

Id moved the car outside to work on garage stuff, went to start it later and the motor wouldn't turn over.

The left carb was wet and dripping fuel everywhere, got the car pushed inside, removed the carb and sparkplugs, engine turns over by hand, carb was making a gurgling sound!? So hopefully the piston rings and bearings are okay.

After a Google it looks like I've got a stuck needle valve or broken float? How or what do I need to look for? 

Is that the valve attached to the float mechanism? How do I actually diagnose this?

Any wisdom from the carb Barrys?

Suppose good thing is I have lots of oil pressure at idle I've got 55-60psi cold and doesn't change much once warm with a bit of a rev it climbs to 90psi.

Would you call this too high?

It has had new bearings lifters and balance shaft deactivated basically the balance shaft is there undisturbed but no longer drive off cam so I could fit a dual row timing chain.

First test drive the steering is insanely heavy even for an adult so whats making it so hard. Built it up with a leccy start lifan for dad input free kid hoons but I can see them rotating on the steering wheel instead of turning the kart

The camber?

Linkages or pivot off the steering shaft being too short?

Back axle is wider than the front?

I have a 1976 Toyota 18R engine, and I would like to know what type of electronic distributor (without points and condenser) can be installed.

I read somewhere that when converting to an electronic distributor you might lose the vacuum advance (the small hose that goes from the distributor to the carburetor). Is that correct?

Has anyone done this conversion on an 18R engine? Any recommendations or advice would be appreciated.

Thanks!

We have had a few iterations of the cad library so the below discussion may no longer be relevant.

But use this thread to discuss any problems you have, or to request someone to help you draw something you need. 

Ask away.

Oh and if you actually get a file cut and its shit use the comments section! or get in contact and we can fix or delete it! Also it is use at your own risk or whatever, half of that stuff is just from the wilderness of the internet so measure the drawings against your parts or ask for help before dropping $$ on cutting.

I can weld in a threaded boss to suit no problem so thread doesn't matter, but being that its not earthing on head/rad, I need recommendations on a good switch that I'm guessing will be 2 wire. Doesn't need to be a fancy adjustable one or dual temp, just looking to make the current setup, which is a manual dash switch, more user freindly.

Cheers