I am also looking for an electrical forklift motor> I want to convert my 1958 Simca to a EV. If anybody know one. The internet says it should be a series wound DC electric motor.

Link to 7zip file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1TH3Mlay0gmwCvVCOC4qnaKgTGbr3a07M/view

Or link to PDF file: https://drive.google.com/file/d/1RgXnLEkzRuoCHIaRtczWJHg--VYUruZY/view

First of all some basic info about the F series Diff.

Crown Wheel: 7.5"

Braking: Drum and Disc variations

RA65 Celica = Drum
RT142 Corona IRS = Solid Disc
MA61 Supra = Vented disc
MX73 Cressida = Vented Disc
YR22 Tarago = Drum
MS112 Crown = Drum
Corona Mk2 = Drum

RT142 live axle borgwarner discs can be adopted (semi) easily onto some F and T diffs

F series ratio info here on Toymods too.

http://forums.toymods.org.au/index.php?t=msg&th=33561

To see which ratio your F diff is check out this:

Read the Axle Code from the vehicle indentification plate.

first digit: ring gear diameter

A 138mm
B 145mm
C 6.25"
D 6.62"
E 7.1"
F 7.5"
G 8"
H 9"
J 9.25"
K 9.5"
L 10.5"
M 12.5"
N 13.5"
P 14"
Q 12"
R 162mm
S 6.38"
T 6.7"
U 6"
V 10.6"
W 15.5"
X 142mm
Y 158mm
Z 202mm
- no ring gear = FWD

Second, third digits: gear ratio

01 3.30
02 3.36
03 3.545
04 3.556
05 3.70
06 3.889
07 3.90
08 4.111
09 4.222
10 4.375
11 4.444
12 4.625
13 4.79
14 4.875
15 5.125
16 5.286
17 5.60
18 5.714
19 5.833
20 6.167
21 6.667
22 6.78
23 6.833
24 7.64
25 4.556
26 5.571
27 3.364
28 4.30
29 4.10
30 3.727
31 3.909
32 6.591 or 4.807
33 7.503 or 5.583
34 6.781 or 4.786
35 7.636 or 5.60
36 4.778
37 3.583
38 3.417
39 3.154
40 5.375
41 3.308
42 6.500
43 3.550
44 3.214
45 3.533
46 2.928
47 3.944
48 3.356
49 3.729
50 3.400
51 3.736
52 3.722
53 3.250
54 3.941
55 3.333
56 2.821
57 4.058
58 3.238
59 3.234
60 3.519
61 2.724
62 2.892
63 2.655
64 4.312
65 3.837
66 3.071
67 3.526
68 3.095
69 4.176
70 5.857
71 2.962
72 3.949
73 4.285

Fourth digit: no of pinions, ltd slip-yes/no

Code pinions ls
2 2 no
3 2 yes
4 4 no
5 4 yes

Example: F372 = 7.5" 3.58 final ratio 2 pinion diff. Will not be stamped on the diff, you will have to check the build plate on the firewall of the car you pull it from.

LSD Availability: Altezza LSD's form the likes of Kaaz etc will bolt in but a spacer ring needs to be made up for it to work. Can anyone shed more light on this? Steroidchickens?

Tomei Altezza centre into an MS112 Crown = Works, no problem!
Cusco Altezza centre into YR22 Tarago = Success!

IRS centres will bolt straight into Live axle F diffs so you could use an MA61 LSD but apparently no good for proper driving with small clutch plates and small surface area they aren't very effective and usually well worn out. An aftermarket 1.5 or 2 way or locker is your best bet for grip or drift work. See Kaaz, Tomei, OS Giken, Cusco, (TRD no longer available)

Side note for celica/cressida/irs corona - Altezza/RS2000 Cusco LSD was a nightmare for my diff guy into RT142/RA65 IRS centre probably due to the car not being LSD to begin with. Machining and lots of hunting for correct bearings needed. Have been told (but can't confirm) that the MA61 diff centre half shafts are needed as they were lsd from factory and are shorter to suit.

Torsen and Truetracs LSD's are also available. Many hilux 4wd live axle ran 7.5" FRONT diffs too 80 and 90's, possibly 2000's. Lots of options from 4 wheel drive aftermarket companies.

Cars:

MX13 Cessida - 3.9 - 1410mm (Same width as T series/S series/KE70 BW)

Tarago YR22 - 4.1 manual and 4.3 auto - 1435mm
Uses a G series (Hilux) diff nose flange bolt pattern (60x60mm) All other F series is 55x55mm)

Crowns:

MS110 Solid Axle (coils) F362: 7.5", 4.77:1, 2 pinions, Open
5x114.3 1450mm Solid disc 

MS112 Solid Axle (coils) F292: 7.5", 4.10:1, 2 pinions, Open
5x114.3 1450mm Solid disc 

MS123 Semi trailing arm IRS F285: 7.5", 4.30:1, 4 pinions,
Clutch LSD 5x114.3 N/A Ventilated disc, 1 piston calipers 

MS50 Solid Axle (leaf) F292: 7.5", 4.10:1, 2 pinions, Open
5x114.3 unknown Drum

step 1 - own three cars that all need floor repairs.

step 2 - read the internet

needed a floor panel for the wagon.

measure up, choose swage positions and mark out.

testing. using a 1200mm foot guillotine and 1200mm finger folder, both in ok condition.

i made two folds in the steel both the same way, then bent the sheet back to 'straight'. it bent between the two folds, giving me the bump. close enough is good enough

do em all the same as above in the folder

use the folder to clamp the swages at the outer edges flat. sheet warped like a pringle. not sure if you're allowed to do this with a folder.

the warp is because the outer border of the panel is larger than the inner area, as i've shrunk the inner area by using up material to make the swages. the outer needs to be shrunk to compensate.

shrinking - heat it up, cool it quickly with water/wet rag.

hammer flat, trim down to size. soft hammer on anvil - didnt want to thin the steel any, which would do the opposite of shrinking. did both sides.

shrink again, hammer flat again.

encouraging the swages to be more how i like. hammers, bits of scrap, as you see. anvil, saw horses etc.

quick squirt of flat black and a check to see if it's working:

trim again, finish up and couple of mild folds down the edges to encourage the edges into straight.

in place - still a bit of a warp, but metal hot glue will hold it right.

well it's no chip foose but good enough to fill a hole in a 50 yr old floor.

thought i'd write it up cos it was surprisingly easy and yall may need to do similar next wof!

 last time i was cutting and welding the ends of the swages and they were all over the show. turns out patience, fire and hammers were the key.

Talk about it here

Adaptors= bolt to the original hub and have another set of studs to bolt the wheel to

Spacers= slip over the original studs

the relevant rules are here- section 2.5 

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/standards/LVVTA_STD_Wheels_&_Tyres.pdf

note the maximum size for adaptors is now 30mm

here is an example of a wheel spacer done correctly- fits snugly on the center spigot and has a ring which locates the center of the wheel, has countersunk bolts to attach it to the hub, longer studs so the nuts go on far enough.

This ones not so good, and its had bits cut off, not sure why. Tyre shops still sell these shitty things but they are not legal.

Adaptors have a few traps, more so on the narrower ones- commonly available 15mm ones have a few issues, 20mm or bigger is not so bad.

The problem is, to fit a wheel with a flat mounting face, usually means there isnt enough material under the nut attaching the adaptor to the hub (some end up loose because the nut bottoms out on the disc/hub face) or the nuts are too short, and dont meet the minimum thread engagement of 'same as thread diameter', like this

another common problem- often the tapers are machined wrong so they dont match the nuts.

probably over half of the adaptors I look at have this issue. see this pic, the nut only contacts right at the bottom, so eventually the nuts come loose or are loose when I check them.

Cheap poor quality parts are another common one

These wheel nuts are from the same set. Mismatched sizes, wrongly machined tapers, tapers not parallel with the thread or in center, and poor thread fit on the stud are common to find with these. If the nuts or studs are a black colour they are usually poor quality

I have had great service from DIYautotune who I think are the largest supplier of these kits or built up units. There are other places to buy from so by all means do a search but most go back to diyat.

Here is a some useful info for those that know nothing about megasquirt except having heard the name.

https://www.diyautotune.com/faq/faq.htm#whatheckms

You can add to this thread if you find more useful info about megasquirt but please keep it MS related.

For more general diy fuel injection or just fuel injection related questions please go here...

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/34850-diy-fuel-injection-thread/

http://www.rocky-road.com/calculator.html

So this page has a couple of useful boxes near the bottom if youre looking at changing tyre size or diff ratio and want to know the final outcome before even touching the car (put trans case ratio at 1:1 obviously)

It may take a bit of messing around converting MPH etc but its spot on in accuracy

And a page for converting metric tyres to inch

http://www.onlineconversion.com/tire_size_conversion.htm

For those who like their downdraughts

also this page for tuning carbys, pretty much the same but still helpfull - http://www.espritfac...bbalancing.html

Here is a link to a great article on modifying your distributor to keep up with your modified engine (think setting your advance curve and soforth rather than just improving spark)

Its all straight forward DIY and makes alot of sense, not at all blackmagic. I will be following it through on my old banger

http://www.google.com.mx/url?q=http://www.firstfives.org/faq/timing/timing_for_modified_engines.PDF&sa=U&ei=7oxNVNPdNquN8QG8v4DIBA&ved=0CAsQFjAA&usg=AFQjCNEasFUdqVc-E6vQy15gmO-7FjjGKA

Google can convert spring rates quickly from lb/in to kg/mm

http://www.monroe.com/assets/downloads/english/08_MountingLengthSheet.pdf

What size tyre can I run on my rims?

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_01-2009_V2_Tyre_Size_to_Wheel_Size_Compatibility_Guide.pdf

What are the rules with driveshaft loops?

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_09-2011_Drive-shaft_Safety_Loop_Requirement_Clarification.pdf

What are the rules regarding camber?

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/infosheets/LVVTA_Info_04-2012_Suspension_Camber_Angle_Guide.pdf

How do i weld up my adjustable struts?

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/37800-welded-strut-how-to/

What are the rules regarding fuel systems?

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/HCTM_SAMPLE_Chapter-10_Fuel%20Systems.pdf

What are the rules for air bag suspensions?

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/HCTM_SAMPLE_Chapter-6_Suspension%20Systems_airbag-hydraulics.pdf

Where can I find the rules for WOF inspections?

http://vehicleinspection.nzta.govt.nz/virms/in-service-wof-and-cof

What can I modify on a car without needing a cert?

http://www.lvvta.org.nz/documents/suplementary_information/LVVTA_LVV_Cert_Threshold.pdf

What are the rules regarding wheel spacers?

//oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/46520-wheel-adaptors-and-spacers/

As below:

Howdy,

Seeing as there is weird info online and not much is clear in regards to driving a high level tacho with a low level signal I figure I'd take mine apart and apply Ohm's Law as I figure it's got to be simple enough surely!

97 Mazda B2200, link atom g4.

Background:
"High level" tachs are driven from the neg post of the regular coil which can see 200 - 400V which is where the "high level" comes from, it's back EMF from the collapsing primary coil.
What we see from a computer and sometimes from an output from an igniter is 0-12V (more or less) and is known as "low level".
Now something that takes high voltage to drive, will not drive with low voltage, thankfully they're really only dragging down the current so we can replace the resistor with a little bit of Ohms law to match the new feed voltage.

What you will need:
Soldering iron and solder.
Multimeter.
Screwdrivers.
New resistor.

Here's how I did mine.

So I dragged out my tacho

You need to see what is + 12V, what is Ground and what is signal from coil.
Do this by tracing the ribbons or traces or wires that connect to your tacho. You'll see that they use the traces for +12V and earth for things like lights so you'll be able to figure out which is which there which leaves the other one to be your signal.

Now that you've found your signal, check to see what size the resistor is (hopefully there is one and I've not wasted your time).
Mine is a through hole resistor which is nice and simple, they may exist in surface mount too but those are easy also, don't be discouraged. You'll want a fine tip on your soldering iron though.

So mine is a 42k resistor. That sausage with bands around it and wires out either end. (http://www.digikey.com/~/media/Images/Marketing/Resources/Calculators/resistor-color-chart.jpg?la=en-US if you don't have a resistance tool on your multimeter) 
Now using Ohms law 200V / 42000 =  ~0.005 amps. (guessed at 200V, might be 400 but with such a large denominator it doesn't really matter)
Because we have only 12V to play with we go backwards to find the resistance needed for that amperage
12 / 0.005 = 2400, so we need a 2k4 resistor.

So I took out the 42k resistor, replaced with 2k4 resistor and put it back in.

Video of tacho working:

http://i801.photobucket.com/albums/yy295/Bangbug_bucket/video-2014-06-30-21-48-13.mp4

RPM sweep works nicely too, thanks link!

Anyway, Secondly, This is my disclaimer, follow this as a general guideline to what I have done in the past, its not gosbel, and if anything happens to your stuff Dont blame me, push a push pop. I would like to note, i Have had a few sets of these Certed in the past, But you never know what might happen, so consult your nearest Cert guy.

Right, The fun Stuff. The struts used in this build are from a 1981 Toyota Cressida Wagon, however they are the same as pretty much all 80's corona's cressidas and the likes. Ae-86 etc are equally as easy, you just need to use AW-11 or AE92 strut insert, instead of the GT-4 celica ones used here.

I always try and water blast the shit out of the struts once removed from the car, makes like so much easier and nicer, plus your less likely to drop a strut on your nuts. So you pretty much have something like these.

Then its into the workshop, Where I recommend some fucken sweet beats, and some fucken sweet beer.

I chose Deftones, and Flame in this case.

Next, pull all the shit off the strut like brakes, hubs etc, the lighter the strut, the easier to man handle, Like your mum.

I also find the easitest way to get two piece brake hoses off is to very very carefully, attack it with with a hacksaw so you can bend them open. I have never had an issue when it comes to putting them back on.

So you now have something like this.

Then its time to remove the dredded spring. Note, I would always recommend using a spring compressor, as It is safer and better than note. (however in this instance i didnt, So.......whatever)

Once compressors are on (not shown ), undo the nut the holds on the top hat, and remove both, along with the spring. You can now choose to throw away the spring, or weld them to your roller skates for max fun.

So you should now have a lovely springless strut,

This Pics shows what happens when you dont use compressors. Shit likes to explode

Next step is to remove the smelly shock insert. i find it heaps easer in the vice. I tend to use pipe wrenches, but you can use punches, drifts, hammers, All that sort of stuff.

I would also reccomend putting a tray under your vice, as if you still have origianal oil shocks, its going to want to spew that everywhere when you try and pull them out. This in it self can be a mission. I tend to refit the top hat and give it a bit persuasion with a hammer.

tray Shown here

One shock top nut

Shock coming out of its closet

Once you have removed that Pesky insert, its time to remove the spring platform. I usually grind a ring round just just just above the weld, being very carefull not to cut major deep.

Then its hammer time

From here, you can see how much longer the orginal MX72 shock is compared to the new gt4 shock.

Which leads me to the next bit. you need to figure out how much of the strut housing you need to remove to make this new shock insert captive. I do this very simply;

Insert new shock into housing,

Refit strut housing nut, (note, fit it so 1/2 to 2/3 or the nut is wound in, but leave a bit for error etc)

Push insert all the way down to the bottom of the strut so the shock housing is max low,

Mark it, then pull strut so its set as max hight, then measere from the nut to your original mark.

this is the measerment you need to remove from the strut housing. (in my case I think it was about 57mm)

Measure the length when its like this

Next its time to cut your strut, this can be done two ways.

With a drop saw.....

Or with a grinder.

If using a drop saw make sure its set up perfect, and if your using a grinder, I tend to find the easist way to get a equal cut is to wrap a piece of tape round it making sure it joins up square. Then grind round the mark. Magic!! ALSO! WHEN YOU DO YOUR FIRST CUT AT THE TOP, MAKE SURE YOU DO IT RESONABLE AMOUNT BELOW THE INTERNAL THREADS OF THE STRUT HOUSING

Then mark the measurement you had to remove, and remove it. Also make sure to try and cut it to the inside of you measurements, allowing for thickness of grinding disc etc, otherwise you will end up short..

I tend to v the ends a little for a bit better pentration, something like this.

next I chuck the new insert in the strut, put top part one, and fit the nut, till the two sections are meeting up nicely

Then its the super fun part, tack welding.

I have these sweet welding magnets, they help making everything nice and straight.

Then chuck 3 very careful, short and sweet tacks around it to hold it together. you dont want much heat getting into the shock insert

Then remove the insert, and finish welding it up.

I then give it a grind down so its pretty smooth(like how I like to grind on your mum). This makes its much easier to fit the sleeve.

Which now brings me to the sleeves.

I use 50nb running tube from Steel and tube, its what plumbers use, can order at any length. I also got the nuts from steel and tube.

price wise came to $65 inc for 600mm of tube and 4 nuts. You should be able to get away with 300mm of tube, Usually allow 150mm each side.

Anyway, cut this to length, and I have found with the last lot I got I had to file the inside abit where the seam is, to get it to slip over. In the past I have never had to do this before, so not sure what thats about. I had to press these ones on, Which is probabaly a good thing anyway

So thats on, then wind on both the nuts, as once you weld the sleeve you cant get them on. SO DO IT!

I tend to cover the sleeves with tape, to stop any welding splatter etc to stick to the sleeve. However, if you do, can usually fix it with a hacksaw and a small file anyway.

Then its sleeve welding time.

Easy.

Right, next is the springs. 50NB tube has a daimeter of around 62mm, and I have found that springs around 65 internal will be fine.

In this case, i went to the local wreaker, and got some aftermarket lowering springs from a 1989 Honda civic. For $40.

Next is simply jabbings these in, and seeing how it all looks, setting hight of nuts etc.

But wait, there is more. The top hat needs a way to hold the springs. I happened to get my hands on some none threaded 50mb tube, so cut short lengths, just long enough to go atleast 3/4 of the length of the top spring so it cant go anyway.

Centering them can be hard, I tend to do it by eye, and then weld them in with three decent welds.

Always clean up the area to be wleded, makes for a Nicer job

However, there is one more small job to do, and that is to make it so that the springs can stop turning on the struts

I did this by fitting the top hat, and marking where the spring ends.

then putting a massive blob of weld on. its not the neatest, and you could make a little piece of steel etc to do the job instead. but it works

Then, fit top hat on, maybe do some painting on the welds etc.

And put a decent smear of grease over the threads, will make adjusting easier, and stop them from rusting at the same time.

Then just slam it all back together,

Then fit in car, do your measure up and then, DONE!

Max low struts at a max low price.

So what did you need to buy,

Strut inserts, usually around $130 if you know anyone in the trade etc. Dont pay repco prices, they are crazy

50NB sleeve and nuts, $65

Springs, $40

So $235 all up.

I happened to get my inserts from a mate at $40, so this made my whole job cost $150.... so yeah pretty damn cheap.

What else to note...... Not much really, I have found with this style of strut mods your camber ends up pretty bad, as in close to Possitive, so Some adjustable bottom arms or similar would go down a treat.

As would some RCA's, as your now rocking 4 inch's lower than before.

Also i have made these for a Nissan 910 bluebird, now in Hemis ride, Was pretty much just as easy. just needed to get some spacers made up to support the shock insert (I used gt-4 again) inside the housing. To a cost of $60. so still mint.

Anyway.these ride pretty nice, Non lowered springs would make for a harder ride, which I have in my corona, And it drives pretty damn nice too, but to get the hight, I am runnign them un captive.

Anyway, fucken done. Any questions, go nuts.

Mad

look out for more, like how to make adjustable bottom arms, and an Adjustable Pan hard rod.

Seedy Fucken Al

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

EDIT: try this one too

http://www.ratdat.com/?page_id=60

1. Biggest giveaway is a firewall thats been painted in the area around the chassis number, when the outer panels or engine bay hasnt been painted. Cars dont often rust around the chassis number so dont often need painting around there.

2. The chassis number should look clear without sanding marks or evidence of primer or filler buildup in the digits.

3. VIN tags that are bent or crinkled up from being removed, they are riveted and stuck on so usually get damaged when they are removed.

4. Non original rivets holding tags on- eg nissans have a plastic clip thing to hold the tag on

5. The etched in vin number on the back window should match the vin number on the car- look for stickers covering it or if its been ground or sanded off

6. Check the year on the seatbelts matches the year on the rego

7. Check the car features match what it should be- ie a car I saw the other day said it was a 96 but had the facelift lights and twin airbags that were not fitted on 96 models

8. If the stamped chassis number looks like its been fiddled with, you can usually get behind it via the cowl panel, check for weld marks, also check the thickness- i have seen ones where the 'new' chassis number was stuck straight over the top. giving it a good push with your thumb will sometimes crack the filler holding it on.

One of these things might not mean anything, e.g if the car has had the rear window swapped out of another car the vin number wont match. But if theres more than one thing, start getting suspicious.......

Older cars that only have a plate riveted on are harder to pick, plus are more likely to have been painted at some stage. Make sure the car matches what it says it is, ie if says its a VK commodore but it doesnt have the little c pillar window........

heres one that hasnt been fiddled with, note the faint red stripe over it from factory

and one that has been

this one was glued in, cracked when I pushed on it......

here you can see different rivets, and where the old ones were.

hiding that with the alarm siren wont work.

tags cut off belts to remove date

'new' chassis number stuck over the top of the original

hard to see, but there was a weld visible from behind

and the etching on the window sanded off

This is Peanut, and the motivating factor in today's sanding.

Got it for $59 off trademe, it's built in 1979 according to the stamp on the back. Here's why it was not $150 like the other nice wheels.

And this at each join between alloy spokes and wooden rim...

The plan is to sand it back to clean blonde wood, fill the cracks with wood filler or gel-type superglue, brush the alloy back to brightness, mask off, spray varnish towards previous glory, and drive into sunset with one hand on my lucky 7 ball column shift knob and the other gripping fine Italian wood. Fuck that sounds yuck haha.

My old man occasionally mixes saw dust (of the same timber as being repaired) in with clear resin for a matching colour when repairing furniture.

Helps to hide cracks etc.

Don't use superglue or anything excessively harder than the wood... It will leave hard to sand ridges

this will be the best tip if you have cracks you want to fill. mix the original wood dust with pva or something and fill the cracks. just be sure to scrape off excess before it dries otherwise it will take forever to sand. it may take a couple of goes too fill if the cracks are large due to sawdust sumping.

Been working on the wheel for the last couple days.

I ended up sanding the urethane coating off as I found it pretty easy once I bought some decent norton 60 grit paper.

Detail of the cracked wood.

Sanding the finger grooves.

Close up of finger grooves after sanding through grits 60, 100, 150 and 400.

Starting to look good.

After this I figured it's as smooth as I need while still leaving some grain for the varnish to grab onto. Cleaned out the cracks by using a slim craft knife to cut any dags splintered into the cracks and blowing the dust out.

Using a Kauri coloured wood filler as it was as close as I could find at Bunnings, so once the urethane was off I started saving all the sawdust from the sanding process. Mixed it with the filler to provide something a bit closer to the hue of the wood. I spatulaed the filler into the cracks using a shaved down chopstick, and a skewer to push the filler further into the crack. It was messy, but it should do. Waiting for the filler to dry now before sanding it smooth again. More photo's and progress to come, time spent so far about 6 hours over two days and 24 standard drinks.

The filling in of cracks was a bit of a fail. Here's my advice, unless your filler material matches your wood colour perfectly, be very careful when applying it!

I thought I had a good match, but it turned out a lot lighter once it had dried and been sanded. Since I just spooged it on with my finger, this was a bit of horror show. I had to sand extra wood away to clear the lighter filler from large finger sized swathes of wheel. I managed to do this without misshaping it by sanding the entire damn wheel again..

Here's that goddamn filler...

First coat of varnish after 24hrs drying, wet sanding with 800, and a meth rub down. Not much there as I sanded really well to leave only the filled grain. Next one was pretty much the same.

Exciting varnish close up!!

My wrist's are all good now, I chucked some of the filler on them and they look sweet.

Finally got the wheel to a point where I think it'll last a while, and it looks fucking mint!

Before...

After!

Fitted it to the momo boss kit I scored off tm and slapped it on the ute.

I still have a few little things to do, one of which is to paint in the logo on the centre spoke, it has remnants of yellow paint in the creases of the stamp so I think I'll go for a bright primary yellow. Horn and indicator stalks work perfect, and the wheel centred is straight ahead.

The final stage it is at now is 6 coats of aerosol varnish (1 can from Bunnings). I allowed each coat to dry for at least 12 hours before wet sanding with 800 grit wet/dry paper. After sanding and immediately before a new coat, I would give it a thorough rub down with a clean rag and meths. 6 coats is actually a much thinner finish than I was hoping for, but I think for now it will do. One option I didn't consider until now would have been to ask the marine industry guys about urethane coating the wheel, which might have allowed a more consistent even finish. There are areas on the wheel with a mirror smooth gloss, but only where the grain is very long and running parallel to the surface, most areas have a slight orange peel texture, but not bad enough to make me keep going.

Worse comes to worse I can always take it off and do it all over again if I want a smoother finish or nicer transitions into the spokes.

After the masking came off I gave the alloy a quick brushing with scotchbrite, making sure to go in the same direction as the machining marks.

Tell me what you think!

Welding to a casting or forging has always been illegal as a modification as long as the LVV cert system has been around. The instructions that come with most aftermarket weld together coil overs say to weld the tube directly to the cast hub. fail.

DISCLAIMER

This is how I recommend it is done, other certifiers may have different ideas and if you have got yours certed with it stuck together with a hot glue gun then yay for you

Cheers

http://www.trademe.co.nz/Browse/Listing ... =508332449

So I thought I would pull out another Tech Article for you, this time on how to convert your pansy gay boring pan-hard rod into adjustable, without breaking the bank.

As Always, Disclaimer, I take no responsibility for what you do with your stuff. I know this works, and have had it certed before. I can’t be responsible for the way you go about it.

Vehicle used in this is a 1981 Cressida Wagon, MX63

Anyways, that side of things is done. So to start with, I hope you have a beer in hand, and some sweet music. These are always good ideas.

So here we have it, one pan-hard rod, that is now the wrong length because you have done the right thing and slammed out your car, but now your diff is all over to one side and rubbing more than a horny school girl watching a David Hasselhoff DVD.

So to begin, I measured the outside of the rod, assuming it is hollow in the middle (would be surprised if it wasn’t in most cases). In this case, outside was 19mm, and assumed wall thickness would be around 3mm.

Then I went up to pick a part, and hunted around some vehicle, looking for the correct type of rear tow adjuster found on many vehicles. (pictured below is the style you ultimately want), The idea is to find one that is skinner than the original inside hollow of the pan-hard rod, so you can slip one inside the other for a bit of decent strength. (this one measured at 14.5mm, pretty close to my guesstimation)

Rod measurement

Next, you want to measure your pan-hard rod, end to end, so you have a base for what length you need. Write this down as it will come handy later on. (780mm in this case)

From there, you need to figure out how much of the Pan-hard rod you need to chop out.

Firstly, I un-wound both ends of the adjusters completely out of the super larger adjuster nut section. Then I measured the length of the threaded section, and set the lock nuts to the centre, so I had decent adjustment each way (Don’t forget, that the nut takes up X of the thread, so take that into account when doing this measurement.) then I reassembled the rod till both nuts were locked to the adjuster.

Next you need to measure out the adjuster section of the rod you have bought to use. With this one, the rod has a small lip on it, so I measured between each of those lips. (190mm here). This is the measurement you are going to be doing the welding at. So then I added 30mm each side, and cut down so I had the adjuster section at 190mm and an overall length of 250mm

And clean up the ends so the are easy to slip in.

Then, Find the center of the Pan-hard rod, and mark out the section you want to cut out. In theory, for this case I should be marking out 190mm. However, I already know that my rod is too long, so I in fact cut out an extra 10mm, making it 200mm. This is simply because It will centralise my pan hard rod a lot better and leave me with more tuning ability. Make sure you know which way your rod needs to go, some need to be shorter than factory, and some longer.

I used a drop saw here, however you can use a hacksaw/ grinder/ whatever really. Just try and keep it square. You will most likely end up with a pretty yuck looking cut anyway, so next step is to clean that up inside and out. Remember, tidy work is pretty work. What would your mother say if you didn’t clean up your cuts/ Room!

Yuck

Pretty!

From here, you want to measure the internal diameter of the original Pan-hard rod you have cut, to find out if the outside diameter of the adjustable section will fit. Turns out mine measured at about 13.5mm, So it’s one miller meter to small in diameter to simply slip in. (cunt)

So I then found a 15mm drill bit (14.5 would have been ideal seeing as that’s the diameter of the rod, but I only had a 15, and wasn’t going to pay for one.) then drilled out the rod as far as I needed so the adjustable section could slip all the way up to the lip.

And it should look all nice like this (also at this point, it’s a good time to clean up the areas to be welded with a wire buff or similar, so that its nice, rust free steel)

Then, ITS PENUT BUTTER WELDING TIME! I just did a few tacks, making sure I had everything nice and straight (adjustments can be forcefully made while its tacked)

Then once I was happy. Welded both ends of the adjuster Sections, then cleaned them up to make them pretty.

And that is pretty much it! From there it’s just a matter of chucking it in the car (I painted mine first) and then setting it up. I did this with the back of the Car jacked up on axel stands, with the stands under the diff so that all the weight was on the springs like it would sit on the road. Once you have your centralized location. Lock the nuts and you are away laughing with no more one sided guard Rub!

So there you have it! one adjustable Pan-hard rod, for the cost of some time and stuff all money (the rod i got from pick-a-part cost me $15)

And thats it! Congratulations, its time for more booze / skids!

From your Good cunt

Seedy Al

soo i had only three lines working and they were at the top of the screen so didnt really work that well / couldnt see fuckall.

i also noticed spots along some lines that were working but only there .

SO here what i got to fix the problem (because its clearly broken wires)

*the pictures are fuzzy due to crampedness no useing flash and trembling due to too much caffiene

this is what i gathered to accomplish this mission i also ened up getting a craft knife blade to tidy up the lines after i laid them and let them dry .

voltmeter , ruler (which i didnt end up using) , the silver pen ($35 from jaycar), a rag and some solvent to clean the screen beforehand .

right so i started by finding i had power to the screen by taking both input wire out turning demister on and checking for 10-13 volts (yes i know i had power but im assuming they might not be working at all .

So knowing i had 12.96 volts with car running that was not the problem . next was finding a good earth from which to test for voltage across the grid . by checking continuity from a bolt on the chassis i found that the high brake light was switch earthed .cool so thats where ill stick the black lead from voltmeter .

ok i plugged the demister back in and then put black voltmeter lead into brake light .

I then turned on the demister and starting from the top ran the voltmeter from positive to negative across the grid looking for major drops in voltage

I then circled from the outside and marked where the voltage drop occured

no more photos because i figured you shouldbe able to figure it out etc

once i found the breaks i wiped with rage dipped in solvent and then dotted with the silver pen .. yes it was messy and not pretty but once it dries you get scrap the bits you dont want away .. its similar to whitout when it dries . i did three coats on each break

i then waited 5 mins and turned on the demister , the window was white from me working in there and HELLO it worked STOKED!!

admittedly some arnt working awesomly and its not perfect but faar better then not working at all .

*note* the voltage drops as you go across the grid .. this makes sence seeings as there considerable resistance across the grid to make it heat up etc .

thank you and good night

here are some pictures of it aftert letting the ink cure for a couple days this is when i got out the craft knife and very slwoly started cleaning up the ink on the lines etc

and after ialot of swearing and cursing because i couldnt stop my hand from shaking and hitting the lines etc