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More wire stuff. So to make an omelette first you must break some eggs. So trials first, glad I did. I have just about completed the first section of the engine wiring. Feeling pumped. Also picked up some weld on AN fittings and top radiator return block from Taarks for the cooling system. More on this later.
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Te Urewera Undertaking, 2020 Nov 27th, 28th, 29th.
Vintage Grumble replied to johnnyfive's topic in Upper North Island Region
Yep, unless you want to double me? -
Te Urewera Undertaking, 2020 Nov 27th, 28th, 29th.
RUNAMUCK replied to johnnyfive's topic in Upper North Island Region
Didnt VG say he was out? - Yesterday
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Te Urewera Undertaking, 2020 Nov 27th, 28th, 29th.
HighLUX replied to johnnyfive's topic in Upper North Island Region
Anyone pussying out yet? Kez the sparky at work is keen to snakes spot if ones available -
Te Urewera Undertaking, 2020 Nov 27th, 28th, 29th.
MopedNZ replied to johnnyfive's topic in Upper North Island Region
Off to test the Wave and it's knobblies tomorrow in Raglan. Pissing cheese for Te Uruwera! -
I woke up this morning with a massive erection and it still hasnt gone away was tryna figure out why... then i realised Te Urewera only 2 months away! -
So I didn't end up using the rx7 shock insert, they do however fit the 323 strut, and would be useful for someone not wanting to shorten a 323 shock. Only if they're lowering the car 30-40mm though. Not short enough for my springs. I had myself confused for a bit when I compared the two shock types. I had them side by side and the shock shafts are the same length, but the rx7 shock body is shorter, so in theory if I was to space them up (see my paint diagram below), then there would be no benefit to using them (apart from price). Spacing them 'down' however, with a collar type spacer would work. However, after pulling out my struts and taking a look at the inserts in them, they looked / felt very new, so decided I may as well get them shortened, and sell the rx7 inserts to save myselft the hassle of shortening and making a spacer thing. (reserve met on trademe if you'd like to buy them lol). Had a mate shorten the 323 inserts for me to keep the springs nice n captive, wire wheeled the strut body, dusted them with some black paint, and got them back in the car the other night. Also replaced the rear shocks, cos why not. Have got new brake shoes, cylinders and pads, so will get around to doing that soon also. Will aim to get the car back on the ground the next few days, and hopefully wof time in the next week or two.
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bald supercats are amazing on the back of my paddock car, lush ride and little grass damage. would trade again
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Here's a pic that shows the paint height variation, if you painted with a typical glossy paint (even matt) it would look terrible. However we eneded up painting straight over this surface - with Raptor Liner!
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This is about as flat as we got it. Got all the flakey bits off however the height difference between the metal and the paint surface was still quite uneven, quite a few microns. There's no typical auto paint that could look good on that surface - However, the coating system I had in mind was thicker than the micron difference and stuck like high school nick name. I just hope it would work as I hadn't seen it applied to such a rugged surface. Here's a pic of it prepped and waterproofed. We took it camping like this looking all ratty, was crack up watching all the people looking at it in disgust when it arrived at the campground but a few came by to say they thought the opening back end was pretty cool. I was tempted to leave it like this but also wanted to ensure it was waterproof so ended up painting it.
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Ok, onto the paint prep. Now I've been around a paint can once or twice, but I have no idea what paint they used on this, it was the oddest stuff - as can be seen in the photos, the original paint was crazy cracking everywhere, yet for some reason it was impossible to sand off, even with the most gnarliest sandpaper I could find for the orbital sander (I think I was down to 60 grit? and it still wouldn't budge). Despite all the elbow grease and the abrasion it wouldn't sand off. I have no idea how something could be so flaky, yet still somehow have such awesome adhesion! Which turned out to be a bad thing, but a good thing, as you will see. We ended up trying some paint stripper, two coats didn't work so tried the "cling wrap" method which worked a lot better. This is were you put the paint stripper on, then lay cling wrap over it straight away to try stop the VOC's from off gassing as quick and keeps it more reactive for longer. While it improved the performance, it was still slow going and tedious. The photo below where there's a square of mostly raw metal took ALOT of sanding and several coats of stripper to achieve. Considering the amount of m2 real estate on this badboy, I was not impressed with the ET calculations, so had to come up with another plan...
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My best laptimes around Pukekohe and Hamptons were on supercats with way more power than your starlet ^^^^ what he said
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Mate, there's enough space to have O/S jazzersize classes haha - Enroll now! Yeah I thought it would be more common. But it's the only O/S toy hauler I've seen in NZ. There's quite a few modern ones.
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Are there any yellow plugs that plug into the seat?
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Well rear quarter panels have been ordered and should hopefully be on the way to my shipper in the next week or so. ended up going for Goodmark panels through getallparts.com after a recommendation from an American mopar site I’m on (FABO) so far they have set me back about 790 NZD shipped to my shipper in California, so once he charges me the GST and freight, I think I’ll still be pretty happy with what they cost me.
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That's correct.
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I’ve now made the move to Palmy and have spent this week sorting out the wee workshop I’m renting. I’ve set up a bunch of shelves, built a bench and added a tyre rack along the back. It’s about 40m2 (10m deep, 4m wide) and has a decent high stud so I can hang junk from the ceiling if needed. The unit number will make @kpr jealous: #unit4A Unwrapped my fresh bottom end for the first time... really keen to get the head built now... Then I finished the rear suspension guff from the previous post, removed the springs and dropped it on the ground to see what rubs. The front LCA angles are pretty bad at this height. This is on bumps and I don’t have roll centre adjusters yet. At full compression the front lower arms just touch the chassis and the tyres rub on part of the inner guard (I’ll remedy this before finishing the engine bay tidy up). The lowest point of the chassis rails are are at 35mm or so. That’s with 225/45/15 tyres... probably safe enough to not scrape ripple strips at full compression? It will never run this low, but it’s good to see what the suspension will do over big bumps.
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Maybe, first brake fitting i've used that doesn't have a flare inside. Well it does have one, but the caliper doesn't. I'd be surprised if it didn't leak fluid, but maybe brake fluid is thick enough to not matter. Will google. edit - dug through my paperwork and found instructions for the kit, says to use loctite, so I guess i'll do that. So long since I read them I didn't recall that step. As you were.
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My folks have just picked up one of these. I know ugly AF, but at least they got the bumper sprayed to match the rest of it... https://www.toyota.co.nz/new-car/hiace/HIACE-HSHA-SI2/?skuCode=HIACE-HSHA-SI2-058-11# The major issue is that apparently they can't remove the rear seats without creating issues for the curtain airbags in the rear. The reality is that the seats in the rear is a once or twice a year kind of thing and it will be used as a trades van 99% of the time. Can we make up a plug to fool the airbag computer into thinking the seats are still there? Or is it a little more complicated than just detecting that the seats are occupied? Cheers, Will
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Oops haha. Was the first thread I saw.
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Fancy some bonus non-river pics? Green hut track Full of blardy Pajeros m8
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Tedious yes, but totally understand how mesmerising it is in person when you get a computer to do something useful! We found the hood visually got in the way when working on 3d stuff, eventually replacing the brushes with clear vinyl, even then you'd be pulling the suction hose off and manually cleaning up to check on cut quality etc. Keep throwing up the updates, keen to see what you'll get it carving!
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Chinamans creek, Slab hut creek at Green Hut/Commissioners flat
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Mackley river Nobles creek (caves) There's some rivers I couldn't find pics for. Waipuna river before the caves to Napoleon hill is more like a large creek. The Greenstone river at the end of Noname road is much better since the local landowner changed the exit position. Not deep. This all depends on rainfall of course
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wrong thread yo. but close enough. only got post iat sensor. The temps were never really an issue, china intercooler cooled good. just doesn't flow enough
