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  3. After driving my "new" Mini for a bit, i forgot what torque was. And then i drove Tess again.
  4. Rivalrx - 1972 Mazda 618 Coupe

    Mean pulse bro. So whens it coming down to the better island? Go for some hoons on Takaka hill!
  5. 40mm lower deck than the stock one. Reckon I'd stand half a chance of not getting pulled over if i went up the road on it again hopefully even better chance of staying on. Engine sitting back in place forks back together may get the rest back on it tomorrow. Pics once it's going again looks quite different and finished I reckon just needs rego.......
  6. Raisins 1982 Toyota Corona Mkii GX61

    Time To Upgrade So It failed its next WOF on the front shocks ad ball joints, which I knew was coming. So it was time to start spending some cash money, and finally get the thing low. I will keep all the old parts so if for some odd reason i want it stock height again it can be returned simply. dspec_tt131 from here posted he was parting out his GX61. So I jumped on his modified S13 BC gold struts, to cut out the hassle of building my own. They also came with some RCA's. These have since also been crack tested and are ready for cert. I also managed to get a brand new pair of MX73 BC gold rear struts and springs. dspec_tt131 GX61 I have also pulled apart the front suspension and tidied it up. Replacing ball joints, tie rods, sway-bar links, and bushes. The wheel arches also got hit with some CRC Proseal. Two months till Toyota Fest….. It’s going to be close.
  7. New front tube out of ovalised tubing off an adults push scooter and I mirrored the existing chassis. Decided to just paint it Matt black as I won't know if it needs any more bracing till I ride it and see how it handles under brakes etc. It's 5" lower too!
  8. So got welding gas and motivation and ripped into the chassis today
  9. Pulled out my old 65 Mk 1 GT out of storage today where it’s been sitting for about 3 years. Chucked a battery in after about a miniute of cranking it burst into life. The engine is as fumey as fuck so I reckon the rings are all gummed up and the tacho has stopped working plus a couple of lights.I have owned it about 14 years and in that time done about 2000 Miles if that. The paint is shit with humidity blisters and I bought it that colour which I have always hated, it was originally an Ermine White car, so I’ll work out in the next couple of weeks what to do with it. Current thinking is rebuild the engine and go over all the mechanicals, get Chris R to sort the electrics and get it back on the road. Then either sell it or repaint it Ermine white and keep it.
  10. Here's a before and after photo to see the difference And after And hopefully that equally more flow, and will be one of many things that add up to more power. Next up for the motor is to calculate its port areas, timing, squish band and compression...then tweak those with yet more porting.
  11. 73 HQ Statesman All original 2 owner car. Bench seat. Bought it about 5 years ago after it sat unused for 20 years. Fully rebuilt the brakes and power steer. Engine had a few oil leaks so had it fully record, it had a few busted parts inside so glad I got it done. Heads converted to unleaded and put on Pacemaker Headers and dual exhausts. Put on the 14x8 Tridents to keep it all looking period. It’s virtually rust free and original paint. Interior is all factory with original brocade and factory radio, never had any holes drilled for aftermarket shit.
  12. Cases polished Transfer ports case matched
  13. Oftensideways 1983 Toyota Hiace family camper

    Pretty bloody happy right now!
  14. Tortrons's 1981 Mitsi L200 Clubsport

    Am I doing it right? I don't know if i will need 5L of bog doing it this way. Masked off the inner roof and sprayed some zinc inside the remaining hole, will eventually spray a bunch of cavity wax inside too
  15. Roughing it out Still a bit of work to do, but already a huge improvement. When I'm happy with the "flow" it will get polished up. The intake should be rough, the rest should be smooth
  16. Here's a view of the piston placed exactly where it ends up at BDC. note the skirt is to long and the sides of the barrel don't match. And here it is after matching Now it's a matter of matching to (barrel) to the cases.
  17. Yesterday
  18. I think we're going to see a goped have 3 digit top speed. Dromegedden quarterly would be great.
  19. Tortron's 3.8 Mayte fair dinkum Mitsi Ute

    $50, sweet I should be able to get $75 for mine then
  20. Tortron's 3.8 Mayte fair dinkum Mitsi Ute

    @tortron
  21. Oftensideways 1983 Toyota Hiace family camper

    Finally spraying some colour around! Real happy with the colour. Will have all bar two doors done by the end of the weekend
  22. gettinroundtuits 73 avenger discussion

    Gettin temp engine ready the old school way, lapping valves- valve grinder broken
  23. Here it is with the crank and piston installed. The open style of cylinder with a removable head allows me to port time the motor. I'll stick a degree wheel on the crank, turn it over and measure the degrees at which the ports open and close. Once I have this data, I'll know where improvements can be made.
  24. I'm going to flow the bottom end by porting/blueprinting it. Things like this lip the cylinder makes as it protrudes into the lower case will be reshaped to "seamlessly flow". The arrows I've drawn on indicate crank rotation. That sharp shelf in the photo above will receive a lot of work in this area. Any area like this will create poor flow due to an eddy forming in the low pressure area. The basic idea is that a motor is simply an air pump, and the more efficient that pump is...the more power you'll make.
  25. flyingbricks HZ Ute- I carved a plenum lid!

    I stuck a disk of metal to the snout so that i had a solid guide to sand down to. This made things MUCH easier. Nearly ready for final assembly, waxing and mold making. SO MUCH SANDING but ill be forever upset if this comes out all wavy. I bought a good new oil pump. This is exactly the model i wanted (high pressure standard flow) and the price was great so couldnt not get it. My ali express fiberglass turned up for the mold too.
  26. Jumping back to the motor. This motor was a $20 buy off trademe. It came on a totally fucked pocket bike, that was stored outside with no spark plug in the motor for God knows how long? In that time the motor filled up with rain water. I turned it over by hand and it pumped the water out. Luckily the oil in the 2-stroke mix saved the internals. But the bearings are toast! I used an old clutch to make a gear puller to remove the clutch on this motor. It was well stuck...but this tool popped it right off! With that out of the way, I stripped the motor right down. Externally its really suffered from its poor storage, but internally it all good. I'll probably sandblast it after porting, so it will look like new and its dirty past will be something we both pretend never happened
  27. Quick test fit...yup, sweet as. That'll work.
  28. Im jumping back and forwards a bit, but that's the reality of these projects. I tend to do as much as I can until I hit a barrier that stops me going any further...Then jump ahead and work on something else, to prevent losing momentum. So in saying that, back to the sprocket: I traced the brake caliper, as this will share the same PCD as the sprocket. Much easier to work with on paper, and soon I had the spacing sorted. I drew circular guidelines to locate the sprocket.Then used the centre to take all measurements from. I blacked out the area and scribed a diameter 65mm circle. This sprocket had 68 teeth, so been a nice even number the quarters equaled to 17 teeth. 68/4=17 And that split the diameter 65mm circle into 4. Giving a mark to centre punch and drill. Sorted!
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