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Chrisr's G van


chris r

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It just fits down the side of the house...
I got some more pics today in the daylight.

Dat ass

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For some reason I really like the twin pipes hanging out

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Lush chairs

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If you line the side doors up and press the retaining strap in the right spot they open up really wide, Wide enough to hit the passengers mirror hence the open front door

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Crappy under bonnet(hood) shot and the worlds longest dipstick. Its longer than my leg. It smells the same as my old c10. I guess a mix of 350 horsepower sweat (have to find somewhere for the power to go thats not the wheels) and dust.

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I had plans of washing it today but had a nap instead

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Turns out I was lying about it being a treefiddy. I had a look at the build plate and figured out all the codes. It looks like its a povo pack with a few extras. 305? TBI explains why it started and drove so nicely. 

A01- WINDOW, TINTED, ALL SHADED, W/S
A12- WINDOW, RR, STA BACK DR     
A51- SEAT, FRT BKT PASS, DRIVER
A57- SEAT PASSENGER AUXILIARY, ONE, FLDG
B3W -TIRE ALL P205/50R 15/N BL RIPE ST TL KW4
C5S-GVW RATING, 6600 LBS 
C60- HVAC SYSTEM, AIR CONDITIONER FRT MAN CONTROLS 
D1V-  GEAR, SPEEDO DRIVEN 
D20-: SUNSHADE, WINDSHIELD, PASS SIDE 
D45- MIRROR O/S, SST 
E24-WWR SIDE, CARGO, HINGED 
E5Z-SPEEDOMETER ADAPTER (DELETE)
E60-??
E9Z-SPEEDOMETER KEY (DELETE)
F59- STABILIZER SHAFT FR, 
GU6- AXLE REAR, 3.42 RATIO 
G50-  SPRING REAR, HEAVY DUTY, VAR 1 
JB5- BRAKE, POWER, DISC/DRUM, 6400 LBS 
K19-  REACTOR SYSTEM, AIR INJECTION 
K60- GENERATOR, 100 AMP 
LOD- ??
L03-5.0 LITER V-8 TBI ENGINE 
MX81-??
M40- Turbo Hydra-matic Transmission
NA5-EMISSION SYSTEM, FEDERAL, TIER O
NL7-FUEL TANK,I25L, 33 GAL
N33-STEERING COLUMN, TILT TYPE
N40 -  STEERING, POWER, NON-VARIABLE RATIO
SLM - ??
V37 - BUUPER, FRT & RR, CHROME
V73 - ANTENNA, FIXED
XET - TIRE FRONT, P245/75R16-109S BW R/PE ST TL AT
YD3 - FRONT AXLE, BASE EQUIPMENT FOR SCHEDULING, GVW PLATE
YD5- ??
ZET- ??
ZW9-B0DY EQUIPMENT, BASE BODY OR CHASSIS
ZY1 -  COLOR COMBINATION, SOLID
Z53 CLUSTER, INST, OIL, COOL, TEMP, VOLTS
12U-??
62I- INTERIOR TRIM, LT SADDLE (I)
62V-TRIM COMBINATION, VINYL, LT SADDLE (V)
 

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Instead of cleaning it I replaced the cap,coil,rotor, leads, and plugs. The air/smog pump lines are a a bit of a pain to work around but I got there in the end. I wernt to replace the air filter and noticed all the seals around the tbi unit and air filter base were perished/gone and its been eating dust for a while. I'll give it a good clean and see what I can find in the way of seals. I replaced the brake fluid in the master as it was nasty, I'll give it a good bleed another day when I have a helper

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I replaced all the shocks, that went smoothly. I still need to finish off the air lines for the rear shocks. Front is in

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And the passengers side rear. I think they were going for longest shock bolt award too. It goes through the frame and into the wheel well.

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I went to do the drivers side and noticed this. 

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Thoughts on the spring? Be a cheap cunt and pull that leaf out on both sides and use as is? Replace it with a random leaf thats about the same size? Get reset/lowered springs to match?

I'll have to arrange getting the tyres flipped so the whitewall is on the outside at some point too

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archers can re make a leaf for me. I think I'll drop both leaf packs off to them so they can give them a once over. Any tips for realigning the diff when it goes back in? I'll wait until I actually have some spare $$ before I take the springs out. I had a quick look at the drivers side headlight and the adjuster is stripped. I've ordered some from rock as they were cheap.

I found a pdf of a tilt column rebuild and it says allow a day, with my current mental abilities I think I'll pass on that for now. I'll wait until I can think/concentrate for longer before i attempt that. I'll have to write a list and prioritize what I want to do as I'm very scatterbrained at the moment and can't seem to choose a task to do/keep jumping from task to task. The joys of head injuries.

From what I have seen so far for compliance I need to sort the leaf springs, test/fix the windscreen washers, align/replace headlights, bleed the brakes and possibly a high stop? I heard/read the rules were changing about pre 89 high stops? Can anyone confirm/deny 

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  • 4 weeks later...

I picked up some brake fluid the other day and thats as far as I got with bleeding the brakes. My rock auto order turned up. I figured the sway bar will get a workout here since we actually have corners so ordered new bushes. I ordered a fuel filter as its easy to change. One headlight adjuster was stripped and I figured they all would be shit if I didn't replace them. I'll order the semi sealed headlights this week and make a start put them in the back of the van with everything else. There isn't a huge difference between sealed beams and these semi sealed so no point in going for the sealed units imo

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I tidied up the air shock air lines and mounted the fill valve. I mounted a led flood light to use as a spit/reverse light. I'll grab another off Aliexpress because why not. I'll wire them up to a toggle inside so I can have spot or reverse 

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I got some semi sealed today but got the wrong ones. I think I got the part number 1 digit off. 

I was all set up with by Barry table and ready to go. 

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The old headlight wasn't quite sealed.. There is a spot of rust starting so I'll wire brush it and flick some paint on at some point. 

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Like any Barry I can't resist a good dumpster dive and got a few rolls of cable when work was having a clear out a while ago. I started making up a loom for relays so I won't burn out the factory wiring. I'll grab some new headlight plugs and fuse/relay holders when I get the correct headlights 

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I decided double crimps were a bit shit/too hard for someone to replace later so I got some new relays today when I got the correct semi sealed beams. I found the relay bases I got ages ago so it'll look slightly less shit. The cable is way overkill but if you want to go silly and put 1002 bulbs in it'll take it and not melt anything. I've ordered another fuse holder to match as well as I've lost the others. It was also cheaper to get headlight plugs with wires rather than get three crimps and a piece of plastic. I could of saved myself heaps of time by getting china sealed beams but I like having headlights you can see.

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I pulled some of the wood paneling off in a attempt to pull a wire through for the reverse light. Ol' mate has glued/lined the whole van with polystyrene so if/when we sleep in it it should be less cold

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I chipped away slowly at some wiring today. I had zero energy so barely cracked a idle.

I noticed the blower? motor wire was a bit toasty from a loose crimp so fixed that

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The passengers (left) headlight plug was fucked, I cbf cleaning an painting the headlight bucket on this side so just slammed the beam in.

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I think it looks lush with two new lights. Both look like they are shining down, I'll adjust them later. The new adjusters didn't work nicely with the headlight buckets so I re used the old screws.

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The existing battery terminals/wiring was not up to my standards so I started re doing it. It was crappy wire nuts and corroded cable. Why not just shove it all in the terminal? The earth side was a bit silly too. The battery to body earth had broken on one side and there was a super long cable bolted to another hanging down going across to the left hand side. The motor earth was too small too. I've gone a bit overkill on the new earth as I didn't have the right size crimp. I have some red heat shrink so I'll get rid of the ugly white tape. I'm hoping it starts a bit nicer when this is all done. It probably needs a battery though but i'm living in denial for now. I just realized I forgot about the vsr/second battery but I don't have any cable anyway so it can wait. 

 

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Shitty night time camera photo of some read heat shrink and a slightly out of focus pic of my slightly overkill earth cable. The long arse wire goes to a bolt close to the starter and the others go to the alt and the body. I thought the battery/starter were tired before but it was just a shitty earth. It cranks over heaps faster now and charging is good too. I found some old wiring for a second battery so I'll re use that. It has a rangi battery tray too. I'll have to get a pic of that one day

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  • 2 weeks later...

I took the leaf spring that was damaged out and dropped it off to archers. They have repaired it and it's good to go, ill have to arrange to get it collected next week. If I remember rightly it's about 70 plus gst for the repair. I'm stoked with that 

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Today started off well with the tank in the crx... The theme continued when I attempted to bleed the brakes on the van. I got fresh fluid to the drivers rear all ok, then when I took the cap off to top the front reservoir up and when the mrs pressed the brake it sprayed everywhere. The cap went back on and the passengers side went nicely but then the drivers side bleed nipple snapped off. For the sake of $40 ish us I'll get a new master cylinder and I'll take the caliper off and give it to someone else to wreck.

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@piazzanoob was a gc and sorted out the caliper and we put it back on last week. The pads were a bit of a fuck around to get back in. Gave the brakes a bleed and it's less jerky now. I'll give the drums a adjust up so some point which should sort out some of the pedal travel. 

I still need to finish the headlight wiring and get rid of the old 2nd battery wiring that's hanging down 

 

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  • 1 month later...

I finally did some stuff on this today. I finished off the headlight wiring and they work, I still have to align them as they are on the piss. Looking at that pic I need to re do the battery positive lead so it sits nicer

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I pulled out all the barry spec wiring for the radio, cd stacker, and fuck knows what else

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Check out the battery box

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  • 4 weeks later...

Apparently you need a tool for compressing the spring so you can get the circlip out that holds all of this in

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I'm too cheap and a barry so I made one

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It works

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undo all the screws holding the other stuff in

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Take all the torx screws out, pull the ignition barrel out and you can tighten some of the locking screws

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These two 

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There are two more up top but I couldn't get the slide pins out and with a bit of research industry practice is to tighten these two.

It went from cock in a sock to nice and tight. The small bit of movement is because I hadn't tightened up the support bracket. All went well with only one casualty, the high beam switch. Whoever designed that rod/plastic mechanism needs a dick punch or should have been wiped on the curtain. I spend the most time figuring out how to get the rod back in place. I'll order a new switch and that should be it for that. There is a bloody frustrating mix of metric and imperial fasteners in this thing.

 

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