Jukka Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Let me know what you think of the build. I'll have a bunch of questions going forward so looking forward to hearing your ideas, and get some clarification on somethings with these cars. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UTERUS Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Sweet whip. Tang, de sprang. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Lift it and put 4WD tyres on. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 How rust fucked does a car have to get to be ordered off the road by the cops in Canada? Does it vary between provinces or is it a federal thing? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
oftensideways Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 I did a winter season in Lake Louise a few years back, Canada is such an awesome place! I'm actually amazed at the lack of rust in it, the salt on the roads fucks cars and I remember seeing cars in far worse states then yours! good luck with the project, should be a cool little whip once your done Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jukka Posted February 24, 2017 Author Share Posted February 24, 2017 15 hours ago, igor said: How rust fucked does a car have to get to be ordered off the road by the cops in Canada? Does it vary between provinces or is it a federal thing? It's all done by the province, there really isn't any federal governing body for vehicles outside of aircraft. You'd be amazed at what passes for "safe" here. My friend drives a 95 Impreza wagon that is a complete mess of random subaru parts and his rear strut towers look like this: And the car is still road legal, somehow. Here in Alberta, we have very very limited safety and emission enforcement. I can get a technician to sign off a piece of paper saying he deems the car to be road worthy and I can get it insured. It's a bit of a joke. Back in Ontario where I'm originally from, they are super super strict on emissions and safety. You have to go for yearly safety inspections to get your licence plates renewed and every 2 years for vehicles '87 or newer needs to get emissions tests. I've left some of the rack tracks back home where friends of mine have full race cars that get trailered to and from the track and they have been given fines for not complying with emissions on their race vehicles, even though if the vehicle is used on private property (such as at a race track), it does not need to meet emission standards. 12 hours ago, oftensideways said: I did a winter season in Lake Louise a few years back, Canada is such an awesome place! I'm actually amazed at the lack of rust in it, the salt on the roads fucks cars and I remember seeing cars in far worse states then yours! good luck with the project, should be a cool little whip once your done I love Lake Louise, it's only about an hour and a half away from my house. I actually picked the car up from a kid in Canmore just outside of Banff. Out that way there's not a whole lot of Salt being used on the road, but here in Calgary they use a ton of salt on the road when it gets near freezing. I'm originally from Toronto and out there if they mention the word "snow" they will start salting the roads even before it snows. My Subaru's floor pans rusted out completely from the road salt out there. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 Showed my daughter that Suby and she said she'd seen worse in Tonga. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted February 24, 2017 Share Posted February 24, 2017 My Civic. Could you get away with that? Dodgy as all hell here. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jukka Posted February 25, 2017 Author Share Posted February 25, 2017 ^^ as long as you get that piece of paperwork signed off by a licence technician, you can do what ever you want. There is no annual safety inspection out here. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ajg193 Posted March 9, 2017 Share Posted March 9, 2017 I'd try to reuse the old seals if possible. Failing that I'm sure you could track some aftermarket ones down on ebay. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted April 18, 2017 Share Posted April 18, 2017 Assume you are actually referring to what most would call the rear side windows (A quarter window to me, is what i would call the triangle shaped piece on in the back doors.) then the seal just sits over the steel flange where the inner and outer panel work are spot welded together. the trick to removal is two large screw drivers, you simply need to start prying the window seal up away from the body toward the window, bit by bit, from the side of the vehicle. Just take it slow, use one screw drive to support the bit you have already lifted and work your way along, but be careful. corners are the tricky bits really. This probably makes no sense. But yeah, no clips or anything. try google or you tube for a how to. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jukka Posted April 18, 2017 Author Share Posted April 18, 2017 Yea, that's what I mean. We call them 1/4 windows over here because they are on the rear 1/4 panels. Cheers, I appreciate it. I'll have to give it a try. I did start picking away at it a bit and it looked as though there wasn't any sort of clip holding it in place. I did check google numerous times and came back empty handed, just lots of info about removing glass on KE70 sedans, which all just say "its really hard, go get it done professionally" Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jukka Posted May 2, 2017 Author Share Posted May 2, 2017 Hey @Seedy Al to remove the glass, you work from the outside of the vehicle? or the inside of the vehicle? I have been spraying the seals daily with lubricants to soften them up a bit to make the removal easier, but haven't had a chance to get at it yet. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 4 minutes ago, Jukka said: The biggest progress is that I started cutting out the rust work to start building patches for it. Cuts look a bit rough...! What did you use? I recommend an angle grinder with thin 1mm discs. A die grinder can help in tight spaces, if you have one, also with thin discs. I have a power file(long skinny 13mm belt sander) which makes adjusting the edges of the hole or patch much easier. And with 40 grit belts, makes cleaning up the welds easier because you can be more precise with the grinding and avoid thinning all the surrounding metal. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jukka Posted October 19, 2017 Author Share Posted October 19, 2017 I used a dremel with a metal cutoff wheel. I had to keep the volume down because my daughter's room is 2 floors up and she wakes up whenever I grind anything with the regular grinder. The discs were...not the best. 2 of them exploded while I was doing these cuts. The cuts really aren't too bad, but there were chunks of paint that chipped away while I was cutting, so around the edge of the rear arch it looks a lot more rough than it actually is. I do have an angle grinder with some thin 2mm discs that I'm going to use on the other side. I haven't invested in a power file yet, but I have cleaned most of the edges up with a sanding disc on my air grinder. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 If they are really 2mm discs, I'd recommend getting some 1mm ones. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Adoom Posted October 19, 2017 Share Posted October 19, 2017 Or do you guys use inches in Canada? it's like 1/32th...1/32nd Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jukka Posted October 24, 2017 Author Share Posted October 24, 2017 We are weird with using metric and imperial up here. We use both, but it depends on the circumstances. I'll have to take a look at what sizes I have at home and at the shop, but I'm 99% sure they were 2mm thick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AE25 Posted May 7, 2018 Share Posted May 7, 2018 Id suggest option 2 on the rear arch patch. easier to hide the weld when it's on the arch and flat panels are more likely to warp when welding (would pretty much guarantee it will). Dab each stitch weld with a damp rag to cool it and weld in different areas to let the previous weld cool. otherwise that panel will buckle. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jukka Posted May 8, 2018 Author Share Posted May 8, 2018 Thanks for the input. I always forget about warping panels. I just gotta make sure there's enough good metal around the arches to stitch it in. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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