Adoom

Adoom's 1976 Triumph 2500 TC

55 posts in this topic

Damn, cracked wheel looks bad!

You could repair the cracks with some 15x9 superlites? 

 

 

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I drove 650km on that wheel!!!

I have some 14X6 in the container that will fit. I can't remember what they look like, probably don't suit it. I'd need tyres, don't think they have legal tread.

It's possible I will be changing the brakes to something bigger eventually. So 14's or 15's would be better.

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On 2/13/2017 at 21:55, Alfashark said:

TBH, I can't imagine anything being dimmer than Lucas lighting in Smiths instruments...

Dim and dimmer...

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My S has to date, the best dash lights I've encountered on a Trump sedan. Actual bright, and the dimmer seems to offer a modicum of progressiveness when it comes to lighting options. 

I recommend getting a swaybar if you can, it changes the drive for the better in a huge way!

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Sway bar will need mods to bottom arm where the links mount no? 

Sounds like you got a bit of a turd (for that price lol) but trumps are lush so stick at it (I've had three mkII's: a 2000, 2500S and a 2000 estate)

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53 minutes ago, Snoozin said:

My S has to date, the best dash lights I've encountered on a Trump sedan. Actual bright, and the dimmer seems to offer a modicum of progressiveness when it comes to lighting options. 

Perhaps upgrade to these, for those with dim bulbs... 

http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/Triumph-TR2-TR3-TR4-TR5-TR6-SPITFIRE-LED-Instrument-Xenon-White-Bulb-Upgrade-x2-/272382748335

 

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13 minutes ago, Beaver said:

Sway bar will need mods to bottom arm where the links mount no? 

Sounds like you got a bit of a turd (for that price lol) but trumps are lush so stick at it (I've had three mkII's: a 2000, 2500S and a 2000 estate)

I don't know how it attaches to the lower arm... Is it a hole I can surreptitiously drill, or a bracket that is welded on?

Yeh, I'm wondering how it got a wof which runs out in July... so it got one last month? Did they even see the car? I would expect it to fail on:

  • Black/low brake fluid.
  • Shit brakes with a sinking pedal.
  • Brake pads with almost no friction material
  • Two small fuel leaks.
  • Badly cracked alloy wheel. But I didn't notice until I went to undo the wheel nuts.

I just picked up:

  • New stainless brake caliper pistons. (rusty)
  • new caliper seals(still some to come)
  • new pads (were fucked)
  • new shoes (worn)
  • reground drums
  • new caliper split pins(one broke)
  • New e-clips for wheel cylinders. (one broke)
  • Cleaned and stripped calipers(I couldn't get the pistons out)
  • New wheel cylinders (got them yesterday)

I have ordered:

  • Front and rear brake hoses
  • fuel pump rebuild kit
  • Speedo cable 

 

I think I've spent over $500 so far trying to make it not a death trap.

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I'm sure many of us have bought similarly shagged cars with new wofs only to have a huge list of stuff to fix for the next one.

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53 minutes ago, Beaver said:

Sway bar will need mods to bottom arm where the links mount no? 

Sounds like you got a bit of a turd (for that price lol) but trumps are lush so stick at it (I've had three mkII's: a 2000, 2500S and a 2000 estate)

Yep, will need the castor arms off a 2.5S also or weld a bracket on. Usually pretty easy to find though.

ARB arm; standard one is missing the big bracket you can see.

TKC2864R.jpg

 

The days of properly tidy Trumps for 2k or less are gone now, a scruffy manual OD 2.5S went for a shade under $5400 last week. Primer patches, work required etc, some misguided souls somewhere have decided they want these things.

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16 minutes ago, Adoom said:

I don't know how it attaches to the lower arm... Is it a hole I can surreptitiously drill, or a bracket that is welded on?

 

I'm pretty sure the engine cross member is different (as the mounts for the sway bar bolt to that), and then from memory there is a bracket one og the arms/legs/limbs which the sway bar links bolt through. Its been a few years since I looked at one though

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Did I detect a little frustration in the brake drum department? Those springs are a pita on all BL cars; worse on my Mini with front drugs too. 

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18 hours ago, Snoozin said:

The days of properly tidy Trumps for 2k or less are gone now, a scruffy manual OD 2.5S went for a shade under $5400 last week. Primer patches, work required etc, some misguided souls somewhere have decided they want these things.

I blame someone who is too good at taking shiny photos of vehicles, I mean look at the price of KPs before you started interfering with them...

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20 hours ago, igor said:

I'm sure many of us have bought similarly shagged cars with new wofs only to have a huge list of stuff to fix for the next one.

My SD1 was a good example of this. WOF before i got it, but it somehow passed with low brake pads, a serious fuel leak, and a couple of small things.

That cracked wheel is farked. Good things the trump isnt too heavy and you didnt go kerb hopping.

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in terms of sway bars i made brackets and welded to my lower arms, its better to do this than source stock ones as you can make them even stronger. And from when i did mine i think beaver is correct there, pretty sure i used an S engine cross member as they have the bits for it too all attach too.

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Are the drum adjusters wound up right? If you back them off then the shoes will have a long way to travel to the drums. 

 

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2 minutes ago, Nominal said:

Are the drum adjusters wound up right? If you back them off then the shoes will have a long way to travel to the drums. 

 

It's got "automatic" ratcheting adjusters. The shoes seem to be snug inside the drum. I've manually adjusted them with the drum off until I can 'just' get eh drum back on.

If I press the pedal, then press the pedal again, it feels better. So mechanical slack, or air?  I think I will bleed them again.

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Yep that be air. Describe your bleeding process please..  

Same colour as my second trump. Monkey shit brown. Its lovely :-)

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10 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

Yep that be air. Describe your bleeding process please..  

Same colour as my second trump. Monkey shit brown. Its lovely :-)

Car is on a slope with the arse at the bottom. But when the rear is jacked up, it's more or less horizontal.

Attach bleed hose to right rear nipple. twist nipple open. The assistant pumps the pedal, possibly too furiously, until I say "stop" and the pedal stays down. twist nipple closed. periodically check reservoir level. Repeat on left rear, then front right, then front rear.

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