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Adoom's 1976 Triumph 2500 TC


Adoom

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5 minutes ago, ~Slideways~ said:

I've looked at some like that. But that is so basic, I'd be better off making my own. You also don't get any way to turn separate vents off/on.

The current setup has:

  1. Large central dash vent.
  2. left dash vent
  3. right dash vent
  4. left windscreen vent
  5. right windscreen vent
  6. left rear vent (can't be very effective, could remove)
  7. right rear vent (can't be very effective, could remove)
  8. Venting to the foot area(no ducts, just a big hole in the side)

I'd want to retain at least 1-5.

 

I thought of making a box up for the original long heat exchanger but run two fans that I can control separately. One fan is ducted to windscreen for super demist. The other fan is ducted to all the other vents. 

 

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I'd just recondition the factory heater since it's already out. It's not like you're going to get 40 years of leaves and shit in it as an occasional car that's probably going to be kept undercover, plus they work well when they work. Maybe could do with a gruntier fan, but we had mine in an absolute monsoon a few weeks back in Hamilton and it demisted just fine.

Cutting firewalls is IMO just a giant clusterfuck of a thing, perhaps suss out if you actually need to, and if you don't then retain that factory heater.

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48 minutes ago, ~Slideways~ said:

Rust, so much rust. But it looks possible right?

Will feel good to have new metal in there and covered in POR15 all over your hands.

Most of the patches I need to make are simple shapes. A bunch of straight bends, no compound curves. A lot of it is out of sight so it doesn't have to be exactly the right shape.

I'll need to make a sheet metal bender. They are stupid expensive to buy.

46 minutes ago, ~Slideways~ said:

But freight for stuff that size must cost a fortune.

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5 minutes ago, triumph...tristan said:

Sweet! looks good! its awesome watching this build thread as im doing similar rust repairs on my one at the moment i look forward to seeing all the new steel welded in! 

It's a bit slow going due to current living arrangement.

IMAG0010.thumb.jpg.09358ca7b5c21675e35a6c870c76eb94.jpg

Keep getting grinding dust on the 'kitchen'.

 

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That POR15 you've painted onto shiny new metal.... just check its stuck properly.  I reckon that paint is amazing for rusted surfaces, sticks so well and sets proper hard. But on shiny steel or anything already painted it almost peels off. I think they sell an etch primer to help with this but its expensive paint to new steel.

Check out Resene Durapox epoxy primer for new steel. Goes along way and great for topcoats.

Awesome work you're doing. Not seen anyone in NZ devote so much effort to rusty trump! (and probably not again until Steve begins his marathon on his mk1 wagon... :-)   )

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12 hours ago, yoeddynz said:

Ahh yeah. Cool. Yeah that is some sort of acid etch eh?

I don't think it's an acid. But you can see it reacting with the metal and rust. If you leave it wet long enough, it even dissolves the rust from the pits.

It leaves a phosphate coating on the metal that is supposed to 'key' it. But you have to wash the excess off with water. Then dry the fuck out of it with the mechanic's hair drier. 

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On 6/7/2017 at 10:41, Adoom said:

But freight for stuff that size must cost a fortune.

Sucks, the Rover club here even tried to get them to do a bulk combined shipment of larger items, but they weren’t interested. Rimmers have good stuff but can be dicks. 

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