Popular Post Mr.Mk1 Posted July 2, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 2, 2017 started off a bit hmmmm. the hardner went off so tried some other stuff I have laying around and seem to have gotten away with it! It's touch dry and I can leave it sit for a week. Yes I painted over the brake lines but it's so frustrating unmasking them that I now just put paper behind them and spray them black with an aerosol. 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Mr.Mk1 Posted July 11, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 11, 2017 Engines back in and plumbed, borrowed a standard inlet and carb from mint16 to use while its run in to eliminate teething issues with twin carbs. just missing one carb bit and I can fire it up. Haven't attached headers to exhaust yet just incase it needs to come out for any reason. Even though they are 120y flows they clear everything well, just had to trim the last 4 inches off cause it tilted upward and was touching the modified gearbox member but now it's trimmed off its nicely in line with the old system. hoarding cured a few problems I had with radiator and breather hoses so that was a good result with no outlay! stand by 19 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Mk1 Posted August 3, 2017 Author Share Posted August 3, 2017 Well fuck this things been fighting me hard ever since and it's been thoroughly depressing. Briefly: Engine is tight, old starter stopped cranking it, like it would crank then click another 20 times then crank again. If I turned the engine on the pulley bolt to a different part of the cycle it would crank again but not always. took starter apart and cleaned up/greased..throws out fine on bench but never went again in situ. borrowed a good one and it's epic old battery an issue also so have to charge it after every attempt and use a spare to help jump. bit of shit in carb tried to fill it with juice. battery cables getting very hot, replaced positive to starter. No way only negative gets warm. added another makeshift earth from block to body. got a new battery that may be faulty cause it's not a lot better but borrowed a brand new one and it was sweet. longest it ever runs is about 5 seconds, coil lead was bit loose, fixed, still shit, tried new lead, spark erratic. i do all my own stunts so I can't hit the key and attend to carb 100% but copious amounts of engine start should help? tried wife's dailys cap with leads and no real advantage. tried a near new coil, same shit. it will crank away but then as u let off the key it sometimes Gives a cough to start but of course you've just switched it off then it wont take back up where it was or the battery is too lame. gave it a new condenser and it livened up and fired quite quickly but still no more run time and only did it once. the cam was ground advanced so I could throw it back in to factory specs and it would be a good starting point.. I thought. mint16 and I are happy with static timing and firing order etc. bad earths couldn't cause this? As everything has just been painted? theres a wire from the horn mount (a solid bracket on the chassis) to oil pump bolt-block, a lead from neg on batt,-to the strut tower,-to the block, and another from other strut to block. Obviously I don't want to hack off the paint to bare steel under the body points to see, it should earth through the threads. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RUNAMUCK Posted August 4, 2017 Share Posted August 4, 2017 Have you got power to the anti dieselING solenoid on the carb? Or removed the plunger? They'll only run for a few seconds then. Edit whoops, meant to post in discussion thread. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Mk1 Posted August 5, 2017 Author Share Posted August 5, 2017 The plunger was gone when I checked. well! it turned out to be a dud ignition switch. i hotwired it and it fired straight up, ran great but then I wound on the revs to run in the cam and it started rattling. so out it came, apart she went and it's fucked I'm rapt I got to the bottom of it, gutted it's taken a month, a lot of stress and cost probably $500 all for the sake of one bung wire. we will rebuild! I'll send the crank to the shop and see if it will polish up cause there's 2 pretty dull journals, otherwise they'll get the rest and I'll have it assembled oversize, lob the head on and throw it back in. and look for a new ignition 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Mr.Mk1 Posted August 9, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 9, 2017 The cranks getting machine and I needed cheering up, and the car for a tiki tour in a fortnight, so borrowed this A15 with R1 carbs and a bit of work done. the manifolds are on the same flange and it's to suit a vanette so the extractors hit the idler and the floor so I might need to modify a little but might also just flag it and use my carbs and extractors 23 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Mk1 Posted August 12, 2017 Author Share Posted August 12, 2017 Got to the go ahead to modify so a few pie-cuts and welds and the exhaust was clear. got it running last night after figuring out which of the various hose tails was the fuel inlet, and blocked the (anodised purple) vac block off as I have no brake booster, and finished the exhaust and a little more tidying today, drove out of shed. the throttle cable is lacklustre and I need to come up with a nicer bracket. Got a good bark to it, quite funny watching it jiggle away at idle. Will need to readdress the exhaust as now it's a lot closer to the floor in one spot and the idler is almost touching 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Mr.Mk1 Posted August 13, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 13, 2017 Got the exhaust off the floor and tweaked the pipe by the idler and took it for a fang. It goes really well! Sounds fantastic but on the loud side. Have since tidied up hoses and things but I needed a picture 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Mr.Mk1 Posted August 20, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted August 20, 2017 Went for a hoon over the hills and took in a few country pubs with some other 1200s and a 260, car went well and no issues. Today I butchered a couple of old standard A12 downpipes I no longer need and made a flange so this will make life a lot easier in the future! Not to mention tidier looking. There's a pie cut left open cause I don't know what angle it needs to be yet 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Mk1 Posted August 27, 2017 Author Share Posted August 27, 2017 Today I decided to try my twin carb setup so I could dial it in. once the exhaust was sorted ( fucking thing came out right under the modified gearbox x-member so had to trim excess threads and piecut pipe, it plumbed up easy and with some gas down the throats it fired straight up! went for a test fang but had no vac secondaries. didnt like to idle but have hooked up vacuum hoses and it's good now. yet to re-test. i have a wee video but can't upload 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Mk1 Posted September 1, 2017 Author Share Posted September 1, 2017 I was in the shed for about a minute last night before I noticed a linkage rod on front carb had over-centred, so righted that and it seems to have full travel incl secondary's . So I'll test that on the way to work tomorrow! 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Mr.Mk1 Posted September 2, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted September 2, 2017 Nah fail, it was better but no full secondary's. Pissed about with it all afternoon but never got there. I noticed the dizzy wasn't advancing so I put mine in, tweaked the feet of the secondary's so it's just about touching the primary's actuator. pulled the diaphragms off and they checked out, put back on with some sealant on the gaskets. I though maybe the airbox might affect the vacuum situation so I also sliced the bottom of the air box, pushed it down to where it cleared the bonnet and filled the gap with panel steel. Didn't get to test drive it but didn't seem to change with free revving on the spot. A keen mate decided I needed mirrors so went and scored a few from some wrecked Cedrics, I made a pair from the best of them, cleaned up well. Stoked with the look, sedans look best with rectangles as opposed to round sporty ones. were now cooking up some 13" wheels so I can utilise the golf shocks and lowering springs I got a few months ago. likely have to reset the leaves too but it needs to come down. I like the current wheels but they..aren't 13s 15 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Mk1 Posted September 6, 2017 Author Share Posted September 6, 2017 I decided I'd make some of my own actuators to see if I could make the arm longer and change the fat of it so it moved the secondarys more/sooner. After a few volumes, I gave up. it was a Shit, confined by other bits it would try and hit or you clear that part then the shape is wrong and it would essentially jam wide open. So as a compromise I just built up the part the screwdriver is pointing at, so it engages the secondary's sooner. Will have a test hoon tomorrow night 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Mk1 Posted September 7, 2017 Author Share Posted September 7, 2017 Certainly improved, would be happy with it if I hadn't already driven er with bike carbs on ... Now has a bit more noticeable punch I reckon a few more tweaks to the actuator shape and I'll be getting somewhere 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Mr.Mk1 Posted October 2, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 2, 2017 I was looking forward to driving it to work the other Saturday cause my work car is boring, but when I did it was flat as fuck, boring and generally disappointing. when I got home I put the timing light on it to find it had moved a little, so tightened. Needed a warrant so I put a standard carb on, so it had choke and wasn’t a jerk to start for them. hosed gas into the engine when you shut it off. pulled it apart and cleaned it, did the same thing. then discovered the power valve actuator was frozen up Freed that up and it was mint, but The morning of the warrant it started doing it again. passed with a clean sheet! Was a totaI knob to start afterwards so I hotwired it and wouldn’t rev out, popped and banged, so chugged it home. They didn’t mention it doing this to them so she must have behaved. more of the same. Have since thrown the twin carbs back on. it pulled a bit under brakes so I ripped the other caliper off (did the opposite side before last warrant) and: one Piston was a bit scabby so used a spare and got it back together, cheers to mint16 for the bleeding help! cheers also to the above for making my sweet rocker shaft spacers. likely overkill but it’s a cool old school mod which replaces the springs with a brass bushes to stop the rockers moving laterally under revs I also modified the mazda air box a while back so the bonnet closes over it. required me to cut most of the base, push down at front and then fill the pie-cut section with panel steel. and found out the hard way that if you leave the key on while you go check something else, it can get ultra hot,produce a lot of rank smelling smoke, drip Brown shit out of it and fail! Lucky I had a spare generic one, cooked one was a GT40. I have a new one, but I’m planning to go electronic dizzy soon so needed to be a non-resistor type. Heres a shot of the current state of play. I used to have the fuel line running over the rocker cover into a tee, but discovered that the factory hard line will reach with a little bending. Much tidier and safer. 16 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Mr.Mk1 Posted October 15, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 15, 2017 I got the old gal some new boots. Always planned on wider and 13in anyway. mate sold her van and kept the wheels so had no use for them, I’ve always liked Jilbas so once I test fit and they cleared, we struck a deal! Two were pretty grubby and brake dust starting to eat into them but they cleaned up pretty well with some truck wash, my electric toothbrush and a fine steelo pad. SSR Jilba 13x6.5 Type A. Nankang 175/50swith decent tread. Now I know how much I need to lower it, the front especially. It’s quite high at the x-member. 22 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Mr.Mk1 Posted October 17, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 17, 2017 Got word from the machine shop that I can pick my engine up on Thursday! it came in at under half what I expected to pay so I’m fizzy! they did new bearings throughout, frost plugs, ground crank, acid tanked block, resized rods, measured up the rotating, removed + cleaned + tapped and bunged the crank. tore the engine out after work in preparation, jazzed on a long weekend refit and run in. also got some lock nuts and maybe some freebie chrome wheel nuts. good week 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Mk1 Posted October 21, 2017 Author Share Posted October 21, 2017 Engine came back, put er back together, looked sharp as a pin..acid bath ate all my paint off the block so hazed it again. engine guy gave me some syrupy green assembly shit to use. I found it way too sticky and I had trouble with bearing caps sticking and trying to spin so had to re start that a few times. went in beautifully, always usually a jerk to line up the box. oil pressure straight away, ran like a clock. 25 minutes at 2500 to run in the cam then went for a drive to the hills to bed it it. on the second run it started making a funny noise. Bee lined for home and it got much worse, yay. dropped the oil and it was great. Wiggled everything and it was tight. out she came. the fucking flywheel came loose. Despite being torqued to spec and loctite 10hours prior.. so stoked it’s not shot, perplexed how that happened. Also found a torn engine mount and the gearbox mount mite be poked too. then I spent 3 hours trying to get the fucking gearbox lined up, had a big ole rage and went inside. 7 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Mr.Mk1 Posted October 22, 2017 Author Popular Post Share Posted October 22, 2017 ..Another 4 hours and the box met the engine. jesus so fucking sore and tired and angry. the spines on the clutch plate got a bit caned and it just wouldn’t go home. Ended up putting old clutch back in. Outside the car this time. also put standard single carb on, as yesterday I had twins on and it was shitty. Today it hauls fucking well!! 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mr.Mk1 Posted October 23, 2017 Author Share Posted October 23, 2017 Went for another drive and all went well. Also ditched the vacuum advance on the twin carbs and made my own actuators. Lots easier once the vac gear was out of the way and I could cut off the wee leg the diaphragm arm went onto that was fouling my previous design. not in a rush to put them back on just yet, will keep putting miles on the engine. Maybe when I have it apart to put the HD valve springs in once it’s run in 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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