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KustomKreeps 49 Hudson - Discussion


KustomKreeps

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What Terry said.

 

I didn't have to with mine but plenty of people have done it with great success.  Dry ice in bag, move it around floor, chip off, etc.  

There's a guy down here in Invers that's good for upholstery but you can likely find someone closer?

Hemi @ Arrow Upholstery, pretty sure he just cranks away at it by himself, nice dude and does a good job by all accounts.  There's usually something interesting in his tiny shop, I took one of the truck seats there to be re-done for the boss and there was a Riviera of 60's vintage sitting there with him beside it pedaling away on his machine.

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Just make sure that if you use the dry ice method, it's beneficial to put it in a bag as above, THEN put it on the sound deadener you wish to remove. That way, it helps with cleanup (ie. there is no cleanup of dry ice pellets).

However it's not as effective on underseal as it is on interior sound deadener.

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  • 5 weeks later...
  • 1 month later...

Im a regular guest here browsing but I made an account just so I can post on your build. Have read the whole build thread start to stop a few times over in a row and where i see you taking this is awesome.

Totally impressed. Its a big dollar build whats cool to see. Unlike myself and every other person on here who just recycles old crap then needs to massage it and fix it up to suit.

I also had never heard of a Hudson until the movie "Cars" and Doc Hudson. Seems to be what all the Mercs want to be but cooler due to race heritage.  I see in the upcoming Cars 3 they have a hudson pickup. after looking them up I started drooling with truck envy. large, wide and chopped looking. Im now a fan of the Hudson vehicles. 

sc0517-282567_2.jpg

sc0517-282567_1.jpg

Hudson car envy aside. I have to say a dressed nailhead happens to be my favorite engine. Nice to see a swap that isnt a 351 or a chev. Those finned covers look ace.

But im worried. two x 650 carbs. Over carbed to the max? most guys would run just one of those and be optimal.

Welding workmanship is spot on and that C-Notch is just done right and looks so good flowing like that and not all boxy. Needs to be as this could be a show winning car once done.

At first i was like "Racing brakes are a bit overboard for this style of car" but then i asked my self why? And couldn't say why not to use them. As i said its got potential to be a magazine car so why the hell not. Also using Wilwood MC and other power break parts?

Cant wait to see it all together and with that 1950 Buick grille and what ever other custom mods you do. will look amazing air out.

keep at it and at the level you are doing it at bro.

The Rev'

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22 hours ago, REVerend said:

Im a regular guest here browsing but I made an account just so I can post on your build. Have read the whole build thread start to stop a few times over in a row and where i see you taking this is awesome.

Totally impressed. Its a big dollar build whats cool to see. Unlike myself and every other person on here who just recycles old crap then needs to massage it and fix it up to suit.

I also had never heard of a Hudson until the movie "Cars" and Doc Hudson. Seems to be what all the Mercs want to be but cooler due to race heritage.  I see in the upcoming Cars 3 they have a hudson pickup. after looking them up I started drooling with truck envy. large, wide and chopped looking. Im now a fan of the Hudson vehicles. 

sc0517-282567_2.jpg

sc0517-282567_1.jpg

Hudson car envy aside. I have to say a dressed nailhead happens to be my favorite engine. Nice to see a swap that isnt a 351 or a chev. Those finned covers look ace.

But im worried. two x 650 carbs. Over carbed to the max? most guys would run just one of those and be optimal.

Welding workmanship is spot on and that C-Notch is just done right and looks so good flowing like that and not all boxy. Needs to be as this could be a show winning car once done.

At first i was like "Racing brakes are a bit overboard for this style of car" but then i asked my self why? And couldn't say why not to use them. As i said its got potential to be a magazine car so why the hell not. Also using Wilwood MC and other power break parts?

Cant wait to see it all together and with that 1950 Buick grille and what ever other custom mods you do. will look amazing air out.

keep at it and at the level you are doing it at bro.

The Rev'

Hey thanks man.  Thats wicked what you said.

Im also a fan of the pickups. Like the grill how it curves in the center behind the fog lights. Have seen a few that had been used back in the day at race tracks with modified decks. The center section of the tray opened up like two big door and folded flat to reveal a collapsed beam that you rise up, add the supports and BAM you had a tow truck.

Cant find the pics of them at the moment but here is a similar modified 1950 Buick wrecker.

e19bcfad879f1192ad33dcce043100b4.jpg

link with more info for those wanting to see more here.

 

"Nailhead" came about due to the fact the engines valves kinda look like nails. they are that small. So the old donks have troubles breathing. Factory 2x4 setups used two 600s. These days with pros and the guys who are in the know all recommend two 650s. More so when used with the top intakes like i have coupled in with porting etc.

I have had alot of guys go WTF over carbed and point out there worked 350 chev or 351 ford uses half or less of my total CFM. Different strokes for different folks.

Yeah im pretty stoked with how the Cnotch turned out. Flockie did an awesome job on it.

For breaks im using a Hydroboost setup with 1.125 in master cylinder and proportioning valve. Was wanting to keep the engine bay clean as possible and vacuum units can get rather large. Then the more I read about Hydroboost the more I wanted one. The old 401s dont make much vacuum and if i do the cam will be even less. With the hydro boost running off the PSC pro touring PS pump & external reservoir it will be better for me. The thing will have three full powered breaks worth of compression with engine off and decline from there to normal unpowered breaks. Better yet they sent me TWO full units when i only ordered one.

Hydroboost info here.

 Tell the truth alot of the reason i went with Wilwood was its just easy and simple. the Rods by Reid front end was made for em. John gave me the part numbers needed. Hubs included. No messing about and I was able to get them from summit on special then with my other junk via Kiwi Shipping to NZ considerably cheaper than buying in NZ.

Again thanks for the words of encouragement man.

Alex

 

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hey man choice work good to see how pros do this work. was in an old guys shed the other day and he had a pretty mint early 50's studebaker 4 door straight 8 for $4500 de-reg, looked real similar to your beast, they ant made by the same umbrella are they? shame i have too much shit.

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Oh man thats an awesome idea. Concealed fold down wreaker with a hidden winch.
If i had the cash and a decent ute I would be into that.

Like those hydroboost systems. I didn’t realise there was an aftermarket setup. Had seen them in Cadillacs and modern cars only. Would work well on performance engines where you don’t always have the vacuum needed for the booster. Im using an old HQ one in my rod. big ugly bastard but it was free even though i had to fix it up a bit. 
Nice score on the free extra setup. You selling it?

Rev'

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On 29/05/2017 at 13:19, REVerend said:

Oh man thats an awesome idea. Concealed fold down wreaker with a hidden winch.
If i had the cash and a decent ute I would be into that.

Like those hydroboost systems. I didn’t realise there was an aftermarket setup. Had seen them in Cadillacs and modern cars only. Would work well on performance engines where you don’t always have the vacuum needed for the booster. Im using an old HQ one in my rod. big ugly bastard but it was free even though i had to fix it up a bit. 
Nice score on the free extra setup. You selling it?

Rev'

Yeah will be flicking it off when i get time etc.

You interested? Hydroboost unit is from Hydrotech with CPP proportioning valve. Universal mount.

Basically the setup below.

clp-6474hbk-sb_sn_xl.jpg?rep=True

Alex

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  • 5 months later...
35 minutes ago, KustomKreeps said:



1ImojmX.jpg
Extra bracing added to cross member. You can also see some of the gazetting that strengthens up frame. Thick plate with circles cut, welded in and out.
 

AFAIK, it's "Gusseting". Triangles of metal welded in corners to make them stronger. They do the same thing and use the same word in clothing... just with cloth, not metal.

"Gazetting", sounds similar... but, I had to look it up, means something like "publish".

Don't mean to be a dick or anything.

/Spelling nazi

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  • 3 months later...
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Awesome work, coming along really well! 

Where did you get the lizard skin from? Looks like a good product, how does the sound deadening compare to dynamat for example??

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7 minutes ago, SamB said:

Awesome work, coming along really well! 

Where did you get the lizard skin from? Looks like a good product, how does the sound deadening compare to dynamat for example??

you can get Lizard Skin from Rods by Reid in NZ http://www.rodsbyreid.co.nz/

But I got it from Summit in the states as it worked out cheaper at the time.

Hard to tell as yet how much it will deaden the sound as its just coated on the outside. In the end I will have it every where inside (floor, roof, in & ondoors, boot, firewall and anywhere else I can get it)

But saying this.

I did a tap test. - had meant to record it but forgot. before spraying the floor "rang" when tapped. after with the underside sprayed its a solid thunk.

Cant find the youtube clips that kinda sold me on it. first was a hand bell before and after and the other was for high end stereo with dyno mat vs LS.

But the time to apply, places able to coat and area of coverage vs traditional sound deadening mats kinda balanced out the price for me.

few youtube clips:

 

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