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Tortrons's 1981 Mitsi L200 Clubsport

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had a look at a few things today


namely none of the gauges work properly


tacho didnt work

speedo will work up until 90kph, then drop back to 0 every 2 seconds

fuel gauge reads past full always

temperature gauge doenst read



it has a poorly installed VN commodore instrument panel 


I figure the speedo is a speed sensor issue, will need to confirm what is currently in there and replace it


cleaned up all the contacts and got the tacho working


tested the fuel gauge and have narrowed it down to the sender having an issue (it may work now, its got a full tank, will watch it, otherwise pull it out when there's less fuel in there)


and found very little power getting to the temperature sender, maybe a dodgy wire, or the circuit on the dash is no good. not real sure on where the power comes from to that wire from the instrument panel, will need to find a decent wiring diagram


basically its just a clusterfuck of wiring with a mix of original mitsi, commodore, and aftermarket. awful. it has 4 fuse boxes plus a bunch of other bits that may or may not actually be connected.


also found the flasher relay is no good so have ordered one of those 

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Smooth sailing so far, it's quite nice to drive, not loud, power steering,auto, lovely cruiser.

Everyone wants to pass it on the road though, P.O. mentioned the speedo isn't true, will need to double check with GPS.

Took apart dash and resoldered the circuit board to rule out dodgy dry Holden soldering.

Fuel gauge now works, except that it's a Holden gauge on a Mitsubishi sender, so it's range is way out. Stays on full till half a tank, then starts moving till 1/4 tank which is more or less empty.

Will get an adjustable potentiometer inline so I can dial the range in closer.

Replaced the temperature sender so now that's working. Which is good piece of mind on a cranking hot day like today. Pretty sure it's a (new) standard l200 radiator, has a pusher fan on it just wired to a switch. Not a fan of that. Will monitor how the cooling goes and assess whether to bang in a couple of pull fans.

Haven't done anything about the speed sensor, might go to the wreckers tomorrow.

Have a gap under the dash where I though I might mount some cup holders (in-between dash and random centre console). However I have just noticed that there should be a good down arm rest/middle seat back, which has gone missing probably 20 years ago, so will look for one of those or make one. Gotta have a cup holder cos I'm going on a tour in a few weeks

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Drove from auckland, waitomo, whakapapa, taupo, rotorua, taneatua, opotiki, whakatane, tauranga, hamilton, auckland on about 120L of gas and unknown kms because the odo has now also stopped working


otherwise it goes nicely, hit some back roads and got it muddy, should have taken a photo on the old wooden bush bridges but it was raining. leak in passenger foot well, otherwise nice





also put a new LED compatible hazard flasher relay in and that has gotten them going again

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Hauled some junk around, tray is just a little too small to fit a queen bed widthwise, but length is spot on. better suited to loads of garden junk.

Odo stopped working just before the trip, was the typical broken odo gear that every single one of these speedos has, so a new one off ebay has gone in. However, the speed sensor has now totally died, and i am sort of surprised that it hasnt stopped the engine running as it feeds into the ecu, but whatever. will need a new one of them now too (have checked the speedo and wiring and its alright, also checked with a different speedo incase).

greased the sticky bonnet pull

Have delved into the horrors that are the electricals in this

- rebuilt the neutral switch. the contacts had worn down, so i cleaned it all out and reset them, should be good for another 100,000km, now it doesnt start in gear.

-rebuilt the wiper switch and rewired it. similar to above it was half worn inside, and for some reason the wires have been all changed around. probably the reservoir has been moved to fit the engine, it says made in japan so i assume its not the holden one. Background - there is an aftermarket intermittent speed unit wired in, and a toggle switch to run the washer pump.

Took a bit of looking, because i dont have an l200 wiring diagram, the wires are spliced with different colours, and they are all taped up, pluss there are extra wires not attached to anything, and im not sure which loom was used for half the stuff anyway. Anyway, the pump is supposed to be set up with a live wire and then the switch completes the circuit through a common earth. They had taken the live wire, and cut it, earthing one end to the floor, and the other left cut off an inch from the pump plug, another wire had then been added to the pump plug and earthed out to the engine bay (coupled with the switch wire earthing through the switch), so all that mess had been bypassed with a toggle switch.


Now it all works and has yet to catch on fire.


next i will figure out why the fan is on a toggle switch rather than ecu controlled, and maybe look at how well the alarm is installed

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i put a brand new speed sensor in and its still dropping to 0 and back up when over 80-90kph

noticed that the high beam dash lamp bulb was missing, so i put one in, its on all the time, even with key off, only turning off when the high beam is on. probably because the relay set up is different or something, however i just cut the high beam wire going into the dash and it didnt change anything.

i see the oil warning light has been cut, and a bunch of other horrid things



its horrible, going to have to basically pull the whole loom out i think and do it properly 

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so theres "some" rust, typical of an 80's Mitsubishi

in the windscreen cowel/heater box area in the firewall where every car with this set up rusts out. right in the centre of the firewall, the hoop on the inside is pretty much gone too so will need to make a bigger hole and put one back in.

its not a major at this stage and is pretty centralised at that one point

it was still full of leaves


I also imagine the drains at each side are blocked too because ol mate has bogged up some rust where the inner fender meets the firewall and I get some water coming into the cab from somewhere near there.

theres a bubble on the inside of the drivers door frame, and a streak of rust coming out from behind where the visor is mounted


it also appears that a few unneeded brackets have been chiselled off from the engine bay and some lovely jagged holes left behind

some of the bedliner has failed and is getting rust behind it, so il clean that up


the rest of the thing seems to be ok, I checked out the inside of the doors and they are very nice, needs to have the underside redone, and il be waxoiling the chassis





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1. track down a genuine mitsubishi patch repair panel



Dig out your stash Od3FKAi.jpg


3. wonder where the rest of your panel beating hammers have gone



i will end up cutting probably that entire patch worth out so i can get access to the heater box, which is that dark hole where everything has rusted out and replacing it, but will wait on cutting the truck up totally until i get some argon

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