kyteler

Ash's A6 Carina Coupe (Lyfe)

88 posts in this topic

Hmmmmmmmm reading this makes me want to dig the yellow car out of the garage and take it for a spin.

Words I never thought I'd ever utter, but the 3AU in the yellow car is actually really nice to drive.

 

It possibly has the worlds smoothest T50 as well, because it's never had any power through it hahaha.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Don't get me wrong! 3A would have been a good motor in its day and it does the job, you're seen how it pulls for me.

I just need a bit more of a kick.

Maybe I've just been driving to many modern cars.

Wishing I kept the 2ZZ I had as that would have been perfect

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Haha yeah maybe oldschool drags this year?

3AU showdown. I'll get an epic launch with the super boaty suspension.

 

Could possibly even break traction. Maybe.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

^ lol.....

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

I don't think there is any other word to describe the last two post...

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice work on the gearboxes.

You will have no problem drilling that hardened shaft. I ground a little notch in the surface then drilled that for easier starting when I did a similar thing.

2 people like this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Yeah I'm super keen for that S15 6th gear!

In my case drops 105kph cruising rpm from 3600rpm to 3150 and still keep nice final drive and other gear ratios as-is.

 

Watching with interest 8)

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Nice work on the gearboxes.

Watching with interest 8)

Cheers guys! Should have another update with a MX5 NB parts inclusive next

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey shouldnt that mold be two piece? Im sure ya have figured this out already haha

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Hey shouldnt that mold be two piece? Im sure ya have figured this out already haha

Nah, just going to make it 2ply then crack it, leave it in and then add strength layers.

Far more time effective and won't need to sand then polish the mould seam.

The neck gets progressively smaller.

For the silicone joiner I'll add a strip or two of carbon to the end on the outside, then sand and paint a layer of epoxy onto to smooth it out and make a good sealing surface.

Same as I did for the fibre glass flanges I made for my aw11

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Did you say 20 dollars?

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Probably to late but......

 

 

IMG_7329.JPG

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On 3/20/2017 at 17:23, rxtoy said:

Probably to late but......

 

 

IMG_7329.JPG

Cheers! I'll have a look at them. Haven't actually got started yet so I'm open to suggestions still.

 

it seems as though their trigger wheels are designed to fit only their alloy crank pulleys, so I'd need to buy their setup

im not looking to spend much, think I can get it sorted with an off the shelf trigger wheel, and make a spacer for less then $100

if I get their pulley/spacer/trigger wheel it'all probably run over +$200

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Why don't people use bike sprockets as their trigger wheels? Some of the available wheels look juuuust like bike sprockets 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry, I read that wrong and thought they were to suit standard pulleys. I read your question on their page, can you machine the front of the stock pulley flat to suit their trigger wheel?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 hours ago, flyingbrick said:

Why don't people use bike sprockets as their trigger wheels? Some of the available wheels look juuuust like bike sprockets 

I asked a couple onto it people about this. Using push bike sprocket. All said cause the teeth tapper to an almost point/curve their not ideal as hall sensors operate better and clearer with straight edges.

i did wonder if you could get a moto sprocket and lathe the end of the teeth off to give a sparser edge

1 person likes this

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
19 hours ago, rxtoy said:

Sorry, I read that wrong and thought they were to suit standard pulleys. I read your question on their page, can you machine the front of the stock pulley flat to suit their trigger wheel?

Or trim the edge down of their spacer??

 

lips not that big

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
21 hours ago, Ashkellybarr said:

I asked a couple onto it people about this. Using push bike sprocket. All said cause the teeth tapper to an almost point/curve their not ideal as hall sensors operate better and clearer with straight edges.

i did wonder if you could get a moto sprocket and lathe the end of the teeth off to give a sparser edge

I only mention it because I have seen some for sale (on diy autotune I think) that are even pointier than bike sprockets. 

Never used any of em myself so learning.

You could get one laser cut pretty easily.

 

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!


Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.


Sign In Now