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Ash's A6 Carina Coupe (Lyfe)


kyteler

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Hmmmmmmmm reading this makes me want to dig the yellow car out of the garage and take it for a spin.

Words I never thought I'd ever utter, but the 3AU in the yellow car is actually really nice to drive.

 

It possibly has the worlds smoothest T50 as well, because it's never had any power through it hahaha.

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Hey shouldnt that mold be two piece? Im sure ya have figured this out already haha

Nah, just going to make it 2ply then crack it, leave it in and then add strength layers.

Far more time effective and won't need to sand then polish the mould seam.

The neck gets progressively smaller.

For the silicone joiner I'll add a strip or two of carbon to the end on the outside, then sand and paint a layer of epoxy onto to smooth it out and make a good sealing surface.

Same as I did for the fibre glass flanges I made for my aw11

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On 3/20/2017 at 17:23, rxtoy said:

Probably to late but......

 

 

IMG_7329.JPG

Cheers! I'll have a look at them. Haven't actually got started yet so I'm open to suggestions still.

 

it seems as though their trigger wheels are designed to fit only their alloy crank pulleys, so I'd need to buy their setup

im not looking to spend much, think I can get it sorted with an off the shelf trigger wheel, and make a spacer for less then $100

if I get their pulley/spacer/trigger wheel it'all probably run over +$200

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19 hours ago, flyingbrick said:

Why don't people use bike sprockets as their trigger wheels? Some of the available wheels look juuuust like bike sprockets 

I asked a couple onto it people about this. Using push bike sprocket. All said cause the teeth tapper to an almost point/curve their not ideal as hall sensors operate better and clearer with straight edges.

i did wonder if you could get a moto sprocket and lathe the end of the teeth off to give a sparser edge

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19 hours ago, rxtoy said:

Sorry, I read that wrong and thought they were to suit standard pulleys. I read your question on their page, can you machine the front of the stock pulley flat to suit their trigger wheel?

Or trim the edge down of their spacer??

 

lips not that big

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21 hours ago, Ashkellybarr said:

I asked a couple onto it people about this. Using push bike sprocket. All said cause the teeth tapper to an almost point/curve their not ideal as hall sensors operate better and clearer with straight edges.

i did wonder if you could get a moto sprocket and lathe the end of the teeth off to give a sparser edge

I only mention it because I have seen some for sale (on diy autotune I think) that are even pointier than bike sprockets. 

Never used any of em myself so learning.

You could get one laser cut pretty easily.

 

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