Ashkellybarr

Ash's 82 AA60 rina of rustic glory

51 posts in this topic

Update and to do list.

Plan was to sell a 4AGZE and some other things to find the 7A. I've zero interest in my 4AGZE and they seem to be selling real cheap at the moment so instead of spending loads on a new bottom end I'll re-use the 4AGZE bottom end.

Picked up a blacktop flywheel and clutch for a reasonable price.

Got some cheap average RWD headers.

Things to do:

Finish smallport head.

Get head to shop for reassembly with new valve train.

Insert frost plugs into injector holes.

Sort loom for wasted spark and RPM read out.

Find EFI fuel tank that bolts in.

Buy fuel pump and regulator for delodortos.

Thankfully ben made reciterfier thingy for that red AW's RPM read out I can use if it's still in that loom and I'll reuse the coil packs as well.

I've got a spare dif that someone's locked at some point I'll swap in. Haven't figured out the ratio yet and I'll need to get it re-welded as its cracked and open but hopefully get at some drift practice/learner days

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Picked up some bits

Went into segedins to ask about pumps and was pretty surprised with price so bought off their shelf

Holley solid state pump and pressure regulator.

Also a nifty fuel filter from aeroflow, was only $20 and can be opened so the filter can be changed/cleaned and looks pretty pro too

Just got to sort out mounting.

I don't want to touch the hardlines as they will be used when I go to EFI with a return system.

There's soft hose that goes from tank to hard line so I'll put it between there.

Was suggested to mount as low as possible but with out modifying the hardline it's not easy.

I'll mount it on the chassis with the filter above it and put a loop in the hose from filter to tank and hopefully that will help keep fuel in the hose for start up.

Have a relay from a security system I'll use for the pump feed. Leave extra slack under the carpet so there's enough length for an EFI in tank pump later on

Wiring and fuel pressure gauge and then that's done

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Sooooo many lols

Awesome day at drag day. Cheers to the organisers and support crew!

Nice to get the 3A down the strip before it gets pulled out haha

Consistent 19.7's all morning so I was super keen to get some DYO in haha

Tried to do a braking burn out so I could sit there and pull a sick one wheeler peeler but as I eased on the brake the motor started to stall haha

34 years, 260,000kms, bad rings and 20w50 to hide thoughts bad rings certainly wasn't helping haha

Now with more motivation I'll pull the 4AGE out of anouther car next week so if I get my A into G and finish that small port head then the long block will be finished.

Picked up the loom from storage so can start cutting that back to basics and hopefully find the RPM rectifier Ben made for the wasted spark setup.

Might haft to call on some help to double check the ignitions configured properly

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Couldn't sleep so jumped on the calculator.

Writen it up so that it'll help others too

Ratio's j160 (s15 6th gear) - F code diff

J160-3.9 195/50/14

6500rpm

1st - 44.63kph

2nd - 79.49kph

3rd - 116.5kph

4th - 141.36kph

5th - 172.98kph

6th - 225.41kph

3000rpm

1st - 20.6kph

2nd - 36.69kph

3rd - 53.77kph

4th - 65.25kph

5th - 79.79kph

6th - 104.03kph

55kph 4th 2529rpm

95kph 6th 2739.4rpm

J160-4.1 195/50/14

6500rpm

1st - 42.45kph

2nd - 75.65kph

3rd - 110.82kph

4th - 134.47kph

5th - 164.45kph

6th - 214.41kph

3000rpm

1st - 19.59kph

2nd - 34.9kph

3rd - 51.15kph

4th - 62.06kph

5th - 75.9kph

6th - 98.96kph

J160-4.3 195/50/14

6500rpm

1st - 40.48kph

2nd - 72.09kph

3rd - 105.66kph

4th - 128.21kph

5th - 156.81kph

6th - 204.44kph

3000rpm

1st - 18.68kph

2nd - 33.27kph

3rd - 48.77kph

4th - 59.81kph

5th - 72.37kph

6th - 94.34kph

J160-3.9 205/50/15

6500rpm

1st - 47.5kph

2nd - 84.6kph

3rd - 123.99kph

4th - 150.45kph

5th - 184kph

6th - 239.9kph

3000rpm

1st - 21.92kph

2nd - 39.05kph

3rd - 57.23kph

4th - 69.44kph

5th - 84.92kph

6th - 110.72kph

55kph 4th 2376rpm

95kph 6th 2438.5rpm

I've go something cool turning up later this week, won't be in for ages (year or so) as that has its own head aches and things to figure out. But for the ultimate goal it looks like the altezza 3.9 ratio is the go

As far as I'm aware the tezi CWP can swap into a solid axle case, the pinion just needs a spacer and to set..?? If so then that's all good and I'm on the look out for one of those.

Since the new motor will be in for cert and I don't want to cert twice there's no point in turboing a 4A so all that stuff can get sold.

And I'm possibly swapping the 4AGZE for a high comp bottom end, so at least I've got a cam'd small port with 11.5:1 to run around in for a year or so till I get all this gearbox, motor and diff jaz worked out, done and funned

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Back at it, silly season and other cars have seen this slow.

 

Out with the old, in with the new.

 

x3 new over size Pistons installed.

x1 I've had trouble with tolerance, my rods top falling a tad to tight, and new piston/pin falling a bit over the threshold, I've got anouther on order so should be sweet.

Heads nearly done, just need to go over the ex ports with the final grade to get a smooth surface and it'll be ready for assembly.

 

as it stands with a TRD 0.8 HG it will sit at 10.11:1 comp.

 

ideal for what I'm trying to acheave as its the daily beater, turning over on start up and sidies on a cold motor with any more comp might make for a pig of a daily.

 

might be some taken off the head/block but that's up to the machinist. And doubt it'll go over 11:1 of need be 

 

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Making progress slowly.

picked up another new piston to replace the odd one witch is sweet.

so just needs machine work and its good to go together!

bought a mega squirt kit and made the most of the rainy weekend.

pretty happy with it so far, more simple then I thought to get together. Although i jumped the gun and put the MAP input on the wrong side witch is amateur AF.

with no solder sucker I can't get the bastard out either haha ah ffs

Open to suggestions for that

 

seems people have had trouble with the VR input of the CAS, I've been talking to quite a few people trying to get some solid info but I'm getting different answers from people with mixed results. Unsure if I should dodge the an of worms or persist with fingers crossed

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After fluffing around with what to do about engine speed pickup I've scrapped the idea of running VR input in favour of hall sensor and crank trigger wheel.

next was what hassle free bolt on were available.

 

theres the t3 trigger wheel. Witch is cheap and looks nice. But it only fits on their alloy pulley, and worse part cause it fixes to the back you can't run the lower cam belt cover so I'd haft to fluf around and mark out new timing position reference points.

decided I'll run it on the front instead.

no cheap products off the shelf I'll haft to make something up.

consistion of an alloy spacer/insert that mounts to the factory crank pulley using the tapped holes already.

from there I can fix a trigger wheel to the front.

 

see if I can lathe it up at work to save moollar 

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Chopped a bit more out the rear to get it sitting a bit flatter.

picked up some 15" ssr meshies off a mate for peanuts

sweet cause I can swap the centres over to my flashy 8.5" barrels too

 

had a geez at yota fest at a couple trigger setups.

photos from a 3tgte rina and look exactly like what I need.

ill use the factory pulley as it's harm balanced etc etc.

but for the spacer to sit flat I'll need to lathe the inside surface down and possibly tap the lip off.

only needing water pump and alt I might be able to cut the front grooves off as well

 

 

aaaand I was making coilovers but ended up finding some already made on AA60 stubs so should have those here I couple weeks too

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Been off the road for a wheel with a leaky wheel valve and an indicator relay that gave up.

Relay is one that doesn't change flash speeds from jaycar, I'll pull it open and see why it gave up, wouldn't think it would be loading with only two lamps but maybe.

other shit storm is the last place I haven't removed rust.

you can see it's eating into the seem where the two layers meet, and has made a hole so waters getting into the drivers foot well.

the masking tape is the area I'm thinking of cutting out to get at the rust and repair.

My welding skills aren't great and I want a good job of it. i found a bloke by the name of chris grant that seems onto it so hopefully he's not to busy to help and I can get it sorted.

 

after that it'all be rust free and sealed up and I can focus on getting that motor in

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