Ashkellybarr

Ash's 82 AA60 rina of rustic glory

56 posts in this topic

Finally, decent weather!

Pulled the gaurds out, couple coats for west system epoxi and boat cloth

A pillars will never rust!!

Started on the new under seal.

Black epoxi sealer, first time I've used this product but it seems pretty good so far.

It's thinner then I thought but its intended that it's able to be sprayed on.

Broken foot means I can't get to the workshop to use the compressor so I've just been using foam cut offs to apply it.

Seems to be working well through.

Managed to swap the struts and bled the brakes again

Got a load of other stuff coming threw in the next couple weeks too

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New under seal under the guards at the A pillars is done.

Three coats of the epoxi stuff all the way up to the windscreen.

Weathers been mint for getting it to cure witch is awesome and making it quicker

Guards can go back down now and with the struts etc back in, go back on the ground

Going over the car it seems the dizzy is leaking, possibly the cam cover gaskets to

As I expected the 3A dizzy is very similar to the 4A dizzy and the Orings are the same size

Luckily I've got loads of new genuine Toyota ones already (AW11 cooked repco ones on track days and oil would seep down onto the headers and smoke like fuck)

Unfortunately my marking on the dizzy came off and my timing is now in limbo

Setting to TDC I think I had it on the exhaust stroke and the battery died before I had a chance to swap it around.. FFS

I'll give the cover a smear of gasket goop and clean it down to see if there's any other leaks

Once the leaks are fixed I can clean up the trans tunnel and continue the under seal

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Have inherited a couple blacktop motors so the aw11 will get a BT 7A so all the snazzy 16v stuff will get put in this motor.

272/267 cams

Toda valve springs

Full ARP and billet oil pump

Picked up some carbs and manifold because I'm impatient as fuck and want to run the 7A before cert

Heads at the shop at the moment, blokes taking his sweet time so hopefully I get it back soon, although I still need to sort Ignition (hyperpac most likely) and extractors

Picked up some 3pc 14" wheels I can daily on and fit a decent RCA in as well so those should be here next week.

Put some new mintex pads in the front, on the inside pads the bottom edge of the pad sits out a bit (only half a mm sits in the clip) and is pretty much only held in by the piston.

Think the brakes brakets are a bit different between the new/old struts so I'll pull them off and shave a bit off so the brackets sits more centre to the disc, would hate for a pad to slip out on heavy braking.

Also have an idea for a shifter relocator, purely for comfort reasons.

With the current t50 I haft to lean forward a little for top shift.

Both the short shifters on the t50 and the j160 unscrew like the picture so it could transfer to the j160 to move the shifter forward once that's in

All draw something up and send it to a good bloke down the line

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Fresh dellortos for the duce!

Gasket and Oring kit from palmside

Venturies 32mm

.8 emulsion

145 main

200 air

55 pump

.2 idel emulsion

70 idel jet

Matching up to the book I have a feeling the idle jets to big and the chokes should be 34's but we'll see how they run

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So I dunno what the previous owner did with the paint.

Guy did a good job at painting it I'll give him that but it seems like maybe he stuffed up the hardener mixture??

Every time I cleaned it the sponge ended up red from the paint and the paint had got so thin primer was showing in places.

I didn't want a Matt red car, nor dose glossy primer look to good either so met half way with Saturn clear coate.

Happy with the turn out, needs a attention to take the Orange peal out but it miles better and most importantly it's sealed from the sun and weather so won't get any worse.

Carbs are done and ready to go. Just need to sort throttle linkage and shorter trumpets/filters

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4agze throttle wheel ended up bolting straight up to the end of the carbs.

Flipped the micro adjuster around the wrong way to suit the throttle side.

I'll need to swap the micro adjuster screw and the spring thing around as its opening the second carb off the springer thinger

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~{J160 expeditions - part 1}~

 

a. random blabbering

b. 6th gear and shift location

 

A:

alrightie, so I have a J160 and want to run it in the rina

 

couple things have come up with regards to the box but also staying A series motor

 

first is ill be using the SQ engineering adaptor

http://www.sq-engineering.com/upgrade-parts/4age-to-j160-gearbox-adapter-kit.html

positives are,

-I can sell my A series bell housing to help fund it (leen reuses it)

-my aw11 has a 225mm clutch kit and flywheel, the altezza uses a 225mm clutch so I can run a 225mm kit (225 doesn't clear the housing in T40/50),

not hugely important but it means both cars will run the exact same MRP flywheel, carbon kev plate and rated pres plate

 

second is this 6th gear from a Nissan S15 everyone has been talking about

for those not familiar, the boxs are both asin AZ6 that have then been sold to Nissan and Toyota (and others) so it would make sence the parts swap between them

reason being that the Nissan 6th gear  would make the yota 6th longer, better highway mileage, lower revs on motor over long distances etc etc

ive been lucky enough to pick up a s15 6sp dirt cheap so ill be dissecting that and documenting it up against the j160, and all importantly seeing if the 6th gearset can swap onto the yota shafts

 

third is the strength, now the ASIN AZ6 is said to be very strong, but most reports show after 220nm or more theres a chance to kick thrust washers out on 3rd and 4th

all is explained and resolved in this link. the link is however for the nissan 6sp so if the Nissan shafts and Toyota shafts in my 2 boxes match up then we can all do the same mod to the j160, where reports of 500nm reliability is being said by Nissan guys

https://neatgearboxes.wordpress.com/2014/04/16/nissan-silvia-s15-6-speed-gearbox-circlip-mod/ 

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ok so I still haven't figured out how to link nice photos cause I suck with computers but want to use links to spread it out as a pose to "add photo" so if some one could explain or fix it that would be awesome

 

B.

 

so removing 6th gear set

14 bolts

1 split pin

3 C clips

1 snap ring thinger

 

removing case:

pull the rear case off all you need is a 12mm-extention, hole punch, 10mm ellen key, and 19mm socket

bolts for the rear case and shifter mount are all 12mm and all the same length (cheers ASIN) so can go back where ever and you not having to use egg cartons and lable them all

 

theres two shift location lockers you need to remove/loosen

ones the 10mm ellen key next to the shifter RHS (is basically a plug with spring under it to push the down)

others 19mm half way down the rear case LHS (this was tight as hell, I nearly rounded it off, not a bolt that can be bought off the shelf so be careful)

these are basically sprung ball bearings that sit in grooves and hold the shaft arms in position and maintain shifter position while changing gears 

 

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once the 4 bolts for the shift brace/mount are undone it'll pull straight off

the mount on the shaft has one 12mm bolt and a split pin, think I used a #4 Ellen key and hammer to tap it out

after that it slides straight off

 

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couple taps with a mallet and wedging a screw driver off it pops and up it slides

there's two previsions for screw driver wedging on either side for maximum wedgness ;)

 

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B. continued

 

alright so theres some mounts that shifter base can swap onto, their even tapped out already

gold bolts are original, mount sitting in other..

you cant see it but theres allowance on the bottom mount as well

 

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im unsure if this is maybe

because the rear case is the same on the nissan or MX5 maybe??

maybe their shift mounts can swap over??

 

any who, we can see this would move the whole mount and shifter forward 53mm

 

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sooooo, can the shift mount move forward on the shaft??

indead it can, how ever, the case gets in the way 28mm of it going into 2nd-4th-6th

photo of mount on shaft in 4th in standard postion

 

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so we need to cut the case down, not to hard

 

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lets look at what's inside..

seal and bearing as expected

 

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we can see the bearing floats in a stainless sleave

 

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looking inside toward the back we can see a bit of meat, around 20mm or so

can also see the ball bearing shift locker (10mm ellen key next to shifter)

 

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so, if we pull the bearing sleeve out, mill that down further so the sleeve sits further inside the box

and instead of putting that one back in, put one out of a C series box that doesn't slide backwards and forwards to save space (some MR2 guys run fwd-rwd converted boxes with no bearings) and then resessed the seal up against that we would in fact gain 32-35mm witch would be enough to move the mount on the shaft forward and clear the gears on the down stroke where the shaft gets pushed forward

 

last piece of this puzzle is mounting the mount forward on the shaft.

shafts are nitrated hardened steel

 

when I made a selector shaft to convert an E58 to rwd (or rear mount), I simply used and angle grinder to grind a 4x4mm patch threw the top 3mm of steel

after 4mm the steels soft as butter and easy to drill and tap

just haft to be careful to remove as little of the hardened outer as possible

 

so we'll see how it goes but the should put the shifter forward 53mm :)

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~{j160 experditions part 2}~

 

s15-altezza differences..

 

first off the cases are completely different. sort of

cases aren't interchangeable

the structures are different externally

the shifter shafts are the same length how ever the j160 shaft comes out of the case and has a separate bracket the shifter mounts to

the s15 box the selector shaft is inside the case and the shifter mount mounts to the case and the bottom of the shifter from the ball down sits in the case

 

the structure inside is actually the same

breather location and splash plate are identical

and also the plastic locator in the end of the input shaft

 

the output splines are different sizes and spline counts well

 

we can see there the s15 output shaft is 1 and 1/8 of a hammer long

 

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and that the j160 output shaft is 5/8's of a hammer long

 

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now the similarity's...

 

the selector shafts are exactly the same

only difference being the things that those location ball bearing things sit in.

this will be due to the different cases and possibly from car manufacture selector feel preferences???

 

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now the big question.. are the gears interchangeable??

the inside of the cases being the same, the selector setup being nearly identical, cheaper to manufacture them the same, 1-5 being identical ratio's it would seem the gear set is exactly the same

the shaft for the output gears measures the same and has the same spline count so those are interchangeable, I'm yet to pull the syncro's off the input gears so cant confirm 100% but externally they are exsactly the same so I can only assume they are.

 

so.. they can be interchangeable

 

bad part, output gear is press off only. so to do that its gear box apart, completely

 

however it does mean its a good excuse to do the thrust washer mod ;)

 

I'm yet to pull the front housing apart but from so far id say its fair to think the gear sets are in them are interchangeable

 

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Under seal time! Ooh the fun..

Jumped in the small fours garage for a couple days to smash it out.

Dropped the fuel tank etc, just the tunnel to do but I can do that went I swap the box later on.

Picked up a mx5 asin AZ6 as well for more of the research project

Mold for the intake plenums getting a push with some demand from other people

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Sooo tedious

Nearly there, I've done all the crappy places like above the fuel tank etc so I'll just do the other small patches later as I do work to the car.

Shit takes a long time on stands with the car 1ft off the ground and loads of tiny sponges to apply it

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Heads back from Taylor's, labeled, hot tub'd

Picked up a new carbide bit witch eats threw alloy like butter.

Couldn't help my self with head.

Took the Orange peal off the chambers
Casting mark behind seats
Ex port out and polished
All the casting marks up top to reduce build up areas.

I'll polish up the ex ports and drop it back at Taylor for assembly with the new parts next week then hopefully get this bloody short block off to tony marsh

 

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Night missions for the insomniac's

These tires are a bit thinner and balder then the previous, ended up facing the other way at one point haha

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Moulds getting there, little more to do still. Haft to touch up the gel coat where I got s bubble between the gel and glass. I little support to do and maybe a base so it sits flat.

Went to a mates and started sand blasting some OG wheels I picked up.

Finally picked up a drivers side window mount mirror so can pull thoughts hidious rep I things off!!

Cars got fender mirror door on passenger side so I can probably just run drivers side and if get hit up I'll just say it's factory like that ;)

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Since the car is pretty much a daily driven ute I thought I'd make life a little easier.

6x9's make for a good sound system on long trips but moving wheels/engines and other crap is a pain in the ass.

Thought I'd keep it OG with the White and red plugs. Sorced from jaycar they didn't break the bank and make every day useage miles easier.

Other thing that's been bugging me is the hideous repco wing mirrors someone put on.

Prefacelift mirrors are ok I guess, big improvement over repco jobies.

Just running drivers side.

Big ups to the bloke who drilled holes in my doors for no reason

Spring thinger retainer clip thingy had come off on both mirrors of donor car, nor did they want to go back on.

Stopped by steel masters and picked up a bolt long enough with an 8mm shank.

Had to cut the head down to clear mounting bracket.

And I welded the nut on for good measure. Was pretty fiddly pulling apart and getting back together so want to avoid doing that again

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