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PBaines 1971 Toyota Corolla KE25


pbaines

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Great to see this continued.  soo many nice parts acquired!

Are you doing a twinpot front brake? Because not so sure that celica brake master is the right choice if you havent also upsized the caliper piston area larger than ae86? 86 has 13/16" master. ST2 Celica is 15/16 or 1"? May find the brake pedal too hard especially with the downsized booster. 

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5 hours ago, AE25 said:

Great to see this continued.  soo many nice parts acquired!

Are you doing a twinpot front brake? Because not so sure that celica brake master is the right choice if you havent also upsized the caliper piston area larger than ae86? 86 has 13/16" master. ST2 Celica is 15/16 or 1"? May find the brake pedal too hard especially with the downsized booster. 

Thanks!

The ST2 uses a 15/16 master, and yup will be going with a twinpot willwood dynapro front, and factory AE86 rear single pot for the rears. 

It'll be a trial and error sort of scenario.

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  • 2 weeks later...

Really nice work Phil. I stumbled onto this project as well as your AE86 recently and have been soaking them up.

I'm working on the brakes for my KE70 project at the moment and am looking to use a similar setup to what you have described (Mine will have AE111 twin-pot front disc brakes on AE86 struts and AE101 single pot rear disc brakes on an F-Series rear diff). Question regarding the ST202/205 components:

- The brake schematic you referenced shows two separate hard-lines from the proportioning valve to the rear for the front/rear diagonal split. Would you run the two hard-lines to the rear into two separate rubber flexi-lines from the chassis to the diff housing, and then to the LH and RH rear brakes to retain this diagonal split?

-Or would you just tee the two separate hardlines from the proportioning valve outlets into one hardline at the engine bay end, and then run the single hardline to the rear to a single rubber flexi-line and split them off to hardlines on the diff like a conventional set-up? This method would remove any ability for a diagonal split.

I've just not been able to find any set-ups that show two rubber flexi-lines at the rear from the chassis to the diff housing when running this sort of front-rear diagonal split in a RWD application. Engage head-scratching mode and cheers in advance for any thoughts.

Mike.

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  • 3 weeks later...
On 25/11/2023 at 22:19, Disraeli said:

Really nice work Phil. I stumbled onto this project as well as your AE86 recently and have been soaking them up.

I'm working on the brakes for my KE70 project at the moment and am looking to use a similar setup to what you have described (Mine will have AE111 twin-pot front disc brakes on AE86 struts and AE101 single pot rear disc brakes on an F-Series rear diff). Question regarding the ST202/205 components:

- The brake schematic you referenced shows two separate hard-lines from the proportioning valve to the rear for the front/rear diagonal split. Would you run the two hard-lines to the rear into two separate rubber flexi-lines from the chassis to the diff housing, and then to the LH and RH rear brakes to retain this diagonal split?

-Or would you just tee the two separate hardlines from the proportioning valve outlets into one hardline at the engine bay end, and then run the single hardline to the rear to a single rubber flexi-line and split them off to hardlines on the diff like a conventional set-up? This method would remove any ability for a diagonal split.

I've just not been able to find any set-ups that show two rubber flexi-lines at the rear from the chassis to the diff housing when running this sort of front-rear diagonal split in a RWD application. Engage head-scratching mode and cheers in advance for any thoughts.

Mike.

 

Apologies for the delayed response I missed seeing this drop into my inbox!

The brake schematic does show two separate hard-lines to the rear, the proportioning valve has 2 outputs for this and if I were to use this valve I would follow the same plumbing as outlined with the schematics diagram as it would have been in the Celica that way.
To be able to achieve this, you'd only need to bend up a bracket or go and cut one off of a car at pick-a-part and have that stitched onto the chassis so that it supports 2 flexi lines instead of the one where the one is stitched onto the chassis at the rear already.

 

But, I'm impulsive and a few days later after purchasing the prop valve i've gone with the adjustable willwood prop valve. I figured that it would be better to be able to tune things properly and have it set correctly from the get-go. It will also clean up the dual line to the rear (not that that was something I thought would have been too difficult to resolve!
https://stealthride.co.nz/products/wb260-13190

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2 minutes ago, Rhyscar said:

Hey Phil, looking over your ideas for brake upgrade. Where did you find that booster? Is it NOS or from another model? 

Might be keen to upgrade to boosted brakes in the rally car one day. Thanks 

Hey man!

It is from flos.ie, there will be a toyota oem new option but the guys at flos.ie have done the groundwork :)
https://flos.ie/shop/brake-booster-ae86/?v=3e8d115eb4b3

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  • 2 weeks later...
On 13/12/2023 at 14:43, pbaines said:

 

Apologies for the delayed response I missed seeing this drop into my inbox!

The brake schematic does show two separate hard-lines to the rear, the proportioning valve has 2 outputs for this and if I were to use this valve I would follow the same plumbing as outlined with the schematics diagram as it would have been in the Celica that way.
To be able to achieve this, you'd only need to bend up a bracket or go and cut one off of a car at pick-a-part and have that stitched onto the chassis so that it supports 2 flexi lines instead of the one where the one is stitched onto the chassis at the rear already.

 

But, I'm impulsive and a few days later after purchasing the prop valve i've gone with the adjustable willwood prop valve. I figured that it would be better to be able to tune things properly and have it set correctly from the get-go. It will also clean up the dual line to the rear (not that that was something I thought would have been too difficult to resolve!
https://stealthride.co.nz/products/wb260-13190

No worries at all mate, busy end of the year!

Thanks for the reply all the same, great to bounce ideas off someone else. After a little more research, I think I'll opt for a front/rear split as opposed to a diagonal split, and either a factory prop valve, or an adjustable type like you've mentioned. Thanks for the above link also, I'll look into it. First step for the new year is to finally build a rotisserie to make brake line fabrication as well as a myriad of other under-car SLJ's that much easier. 

Mike.

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