samdash17 Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 discussion for my build thread //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/51933-samdash17s-1975-austin-1300/ Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ghostchips Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 i would look at the fuel supply for you but i'm ages away. Possibly just stale gas. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samdash17 Posted February 16, 2016 Author Share Posted February 16, 2016 i put some new gas in the tank and even pulled off the on the lines going to the carb which i thought was the fuel line and it looked dry like there was no gas going to it Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtbtimr Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 The fuel pump is on the engine and it might be having trouble sucking it all the way up from the tank. You can check by disconnecting the fuel line running into the carbs and aiming it into a bucket. Then crank the engine and see if its squirting. Also do the valve clearances (even just roughly if you don't have a feeler gauge). And definitely get a Haynes manual for it. Most worthwhile money you'll ever spend on the car. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 When my 1300 had an issue with fuel starvation due to fucked old hoses allowing it to suck air instead of petrol my son and I got it home with him reaching out the passenger window and holding up a lawnmower tank gravity feeding directly to the carb. You could try something similar to at least get the thing running. It might help to eliminate some of the potential faults. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samdash17 Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 ill try do both of these tomorow if i can get a mate to help me and see how it goes Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Of course you know that old cars have a manual choke. Easy thing to miss if you've never had an old car before. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samdash17 Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 yeah i know i was pulling the choke Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Seedy Al Posted February 17, 2016 Share Posted February 17, 2016 Interesting, Mourning Cupcakes austin wagon runs an electric fuel pump........ I just assumed they all did But yeah a fuel issue no doubt Also, in the event that you do find you have fuel at the carbs and it still wont start, its possile there is no oil in the pots on top of the carbs (when you look at the carbs, there is a black plastic cap on top that unscrews, if you undo these and pull them out you should feel a bit of drag on them as there is a tiny piston on them that stops the carbs opening up super fast, these are called dampers. there should be a little oil in there, if it feels like there is no drag, just drop a little atf in there and you should be good to go.) However ignore that for now and make sure you are getting fuel to the carbs first. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samdash17 Posted February 17, 2016 Author Share Posted February 17, 2016 i pulled those little black caps off the other day and they deifinitly looked like they were nice and oily , im gonna try the tips to see if it has fuel when i get home from school Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mo999 Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 There is not much that can go wrong with these gearboxes that can completely remove drive with out it making a lot of horrible noises! Does it feel like its going into gear at all? Are both the drive-shafts connected to each side of the gearbox? (look down the back of the engine with a torch) Unfortunately unless it's a completely worn out clutch plate (possible!) you are in for engine removal to fix anything else. How is the rust in the body? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samdash17 Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 from what i can see both are connected , the person i brought it off said it did it once while driving so they got it towed home then once they got home it started driving fine again and then after that did this again so they parked it up for the past year and a bit, could it be diff ??????? and quite bad on the a pillar and side sills then just little pieces here and there , quite bad in the door and bonnet but from what i heard that doesnt need to be fixed for a wof???? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mo999 Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Check that the gear selector shaft is connected to the gearbox - the pin sometimes falls out 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samdash17 Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 where abouts do i look for that ? sorry im a really new , it makes a complete different sound when i put it into gear if that means anything Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mo999 Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 That's never good news with one of these, I suggest you get a copy of a workshop manual and start with the clutch, it's about the only bit of the driveline that can be serviced (just) with the engine in. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mtbtimr Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Im in central Auckland too and happy to come round and give you a hand sometime if you want man. The gear selector shaft will be under the car running from the gearstick to the back/bottom of the diff. Should be connected at both ends. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
samdash17 Posted February 18, 2016 Author Share Posted February 18, 2016 that would be so helpful ! would mean so much haha 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
GuyWithAviators Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Echoing the above, sounds like selectors or clutch. I'm also based in Auckland and am happy to come have a look. I'd strongly advise getting a Haynes manual from trademe, they're the best thing you can do for yourself to learn haha. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
igor Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 Def get a Haynes manual. I got one for my first Mini in the early '80s and I've since found it helpful on two other Minis, 3 1300s, and an Allegro. Many things are the same or close enough to it on all of them. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Muncie Posted February 18, 2016 Share Posted February 18, 2016 My mini did the exact same thing was a combination of things the slave cylinder wasnt returning (poked) replaced that and when i bled the clutch found the line had collapsed internally. 65 ish in parts i found the clutch plate was seized to the flywheel locked in first key off and rocked it back and forth. Started up and was a good one mine sat for 3 years though. Unbolt your slave cylinder and see if you get drive while aimed way from fences etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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