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Adoom's 1982 KP60 "Starvia" Discussion


Adoom

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  • 3 weeks later...

excellent work. 

When you made that 20hp with the water injection, Was that just though increasing the values on the timing map? Or without doing anything else?

If the former, how many extra degrees could it stand?

What brand was the kit? 

All the reading I've done suggest that coolingmist stuff is the one to go for. 

And I like your clutch plate too. I'm going to talk to my clutch guy about that for my next build.

 

PS, that piston reached me at Waitangi weekend. Thanks!

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excellent work. 

When you made that 20hp with the water injection, Was that just though increasing the values on the timing map? Or without doing anything else?

If the former, how many extra degrees could it stand?

What brand was the kit? 

All the reading I've done suggest that coolingmist stuff is the one to go for. 

And I like your clutch plate too. I'm going to talk to my clutch guy about that for my next build.

 

PS, that piston reached me at Waitangi weekend. Thanks!

We made no real gains with the water injection(Aquamist) until the tuner replaced the water with 100% E85. The added E85 allowed them to reduce the "normal" 95 octane by 20% and advance the timing.

But the amount of E85 being injected was inconsistent. I replaced the water injection system with a single fuel injector attached to a pressure regulator and fuel pump with a little 5L tank. This seemed to be much more reliable/consistent.

But then the engine killed itself, I wasn't sure if it was the fault of the E85 injection(uneven mixture distribution??) or a blown head gasket.

I decided not to keep the system on the new engine.

I can send you a copy of my LInk G4 tune if you want, you can view it on the pc link software that you can download for free.

My clutch was made by MP Autoparts here in Upper Hutt. http://www.mpautoparts.co.nz/

It wasn't cheap, $500+ But no problems with it slipping. And it feels fine, perfectly drivable in normal traffic.

 

OS freight service, for the win!

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I don't have a link, so your maps arent much use to me.

Ah, so it was actually a fuel substitute dealio. Hmmm.

You don't need a link. I meant that you could look at the ignition map stuff and see what they did with the timing. It's pretty visual in the pc link software, with graphs and tables and stuff. The help is pretty good too.

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  • 1 month later...

can you just drill and tap a grease nipple into the steel part of the bush and give it a couple pumps?

I had a similar thought last night.

But it should last some time without having to be regreased I think...

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I was told by some old barry to leave all the bolts loose and tighten them up once the car was at ride height. It was to make bushes last longer.

I think it's just for those bonded rubber ones maybe

Yep, I know that one. I think it's in the Haynes.... But afaik it's for the bonded rubber bushes since they cannot rotate in their housings.

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  • 1 year later...

what size seal have you got there? stock is 35x50x11 but nissan replacements are only 9mm thick so it sits further in so they rub on a fresh part of the driveshaft

 

13 minutes ago, flyingbrick said:

Could use a strip of aluminium can with gasket poo to jam it in there tightly 

thats a good idea

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If it;s not tight, put a collection of centre pops aroudn the periphery of the insude of where the seal runs. the metal which mushrooms out aroudn the pop will hold the seal in place.  Then whack a smear of 3bond around the outside of the seal prior to install.

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