Adoom

Adoom's 1982 KP60 "Starvia"

27 posts in this topic

Passed its cert check on Friday, with nothing needing changing!! He has also done a wof check, but can't submit the wof until the new cert plate arrives. Hopefully the plate should arrive on Wednesday and I can put some rego on it and pick it up on Thursday. Been two years since I drove it.

I'm going over there on something called.....a "train". Gonna be fun times, or death, driving it home, the long long long long long way because the LSD is a bit harsh and the weather is supposed to be wet.

Is it time to pick it up yet?!

How about now?

Now?

 

 

 

Now?

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Picked up the Starvia this morning from the certifier in Carterton. Test drove/ran in the engine driving back to Upper Hutt via Pahiatua -> Palmerston North. The twisty bits were good fun, but the loooooooonnnng straights not so much.

By around 150km I'd had enough of the road noise and had to put on the ear defenders that I brought with me for exactly this reason. By about 200km my eyeballs were starting to melt and the ear defenders were crushing my skull. 250km, I was a couple of minutes from home, I removed my ear defenders and it was an EXPLOSION OF LOUDNESS!!!! And I thought I could do all of the ~500km run in on one day. LOL.

Next job is to try find the annoying loud rattle. There is not much it could be, I think it's the muffler touching the spare wheel well as there is only half a gnats nut clearance.

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Just dropped it back at STM for the road tune. I wonder if there will be a noticeable difference between the "ignition retarded for safety, to get it legal" and after the road tune.

And OH GAAAAAAAD!!!, the SQUEAKING RATTLE!!!!! My new theory is that the trailing link urethane bush is dry and it's making all the noise.... maybe

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I pulled the springs and shocks out the back with the car on axle stands and the diff head supported by the jack with some rags on it to reduce noise from there.

After bouncing it around a bit and using the mechanics stethoscope/screwdriver I decided that the noise was from the lower left rod end. I already cleaned and greased the rod end and bolt on the top left.

I did the lower one too and it didn't fix it.

I think the cause might have been the lower arm was adjusted a few mm too long so when it moved it got way more force on it. I slacked off the adjusters on that arm and adjusted it until it was in the middle of the loose area. 

 

I also thought about putting some of the friction modifier I had into the LSD to try shut up the chatter, but it was already at overflowing and the oil looked milky so I want to change the diff oil soon as.

I'm not sure how the diff oil gets water in it.... it's been sitting in the garage for 2 years. It very rarely gets wet... Where does the water come from?????

 

Well, I took it for a test drive up to Kaitoke and the noise appears to be gone... for now.

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Supercheap had a sale on Saturday, so I got 5L of Penrite 85W140 LSD oil.

I drained out the old stuff. Filled it up with penrite. Then ran it in 5th while on axle stands. Then drained that oil out. It was all foamy, like mixed with water. Then filled it again, ran it in 5th, drained it. It not as foamy. Then filled it again and decided that was enough.

While running it on the axle stands I could see that the gearbox output shaft seal was leaking and spraying the underside of the car with oil. Yay. Burnt gear oil smells great.

So I'll need a new seal. I'm sure I've done this before.... I hope its not a problem with a bearing or something that's causing the seal to fail prematurely.

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So I FINALLY got around to removing the badly leaking gearbox tailshaft oil seal.

It was a bit of a bitch to lever out with the flat head screw driver.

It turns out the propshaft is too long, so at some points in the suspension travel, the shaft of the yoke is thrust, right to its base where it is has more girth, and this has reamed out the seal in the gearboxes tail end. The weld at the base of the yoke shaft has also 'machined' a bit of a step where the seal goes in.

The alloy casting will need to be cleaned up a bit and a new seal should go in fine.

I'll get the propshaft shortened. It was probably borderline too long since I had it made and since then it's been reshelled, had a new gearbox mount and adjustable trailing arms installed. 

I could probably get myself a bit more clearance using the adjustable arms, but I'd rather shorten it to be safe.

IMAG5363.jpg

A well reamed seal.

IMAG5369.jpg

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I bought an oil seal the "same" size and got Brian at howatt to shorten my propshaft. I went to go install them this morning and the seal is not a friction fit, it goes in easily and can move around. Damn. It must be only 0.1mm smaller than the original. So, do I just silicon it in, or do I go to Nissan to get the oem seal and hope it's a tighter fit?

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