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Russell's Ford Escort_Discussion


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Ok lets do this. 

 

So far I have just been shopping, nothing interesting to share picture wise but progress defiantly happening. Just got totally ripped off on a lame GT28r that has ended up costing $1200 . . . a bad start! Atleast it will be rebuilt. Will save the GTX2867r dreams for later. 

 

Ordering all my AN fittings and line assemblies (ANyone got any recommendations for who to purchase lines from?) 

 

 

What's peoples thought on this schematic? Swirl pot only has 3 AN8's so looking at a 'T' at the top off pot but worried about back pressure (Highlighted yellow). Am I better to just run the return too the fuel cell? 

 

Fuel_line_settup.png
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  • 2 weeks later...

Purchased so far list, so i can try remember what I have already got;

 

GT28R (Rebuilt)

Adjustable cam gear

SC40 SS Manifold

8 Gal Jaz fuel cell

044 Fuel pump

SR20 Winged sump

Turbo oil drain return flange -10AN 38mm

Dump pipe with 3” V Clamp  

Exedy 5puk Clutch

3” zorst Flexi

2No. 3” V Clamps

Silicone Radiator pipes

RB20det AFM (probably don't need this anymore is someone needs one)

SR20ve Throttle body

Ignition Coils x4 (NEW)

Timing belt (Gates race), seal and tensioners

Water pump

Lightened flywheel

Fuel rail with -AN fittings

Alloy crank pully

Alloy alternator and radiator pully

-10AN SS Sump fitting

-AN6 Male to 9.5mm hardline adaptor (No.4)

-AN8 Male to ⅜” NPT (lift pump)

-AN8 Male to M18.5 Straight (044 inlet pump)

-AN6 Bosch 044 fuel pump one way check valve

-AN10 Blank for rocker cover

4No. -AN6 90° teflon bends

2No. -AN6 90° teflon bends

5 Meters 8mm teflon SS braided hose

-AN8 Female to Female union for fuel filter

4No. -AN6 straight swivel

3No. -AN8 90° teflon bends

-AN8 Straight teflon

2 meters braided teflon line

044 mount

Spigot bush (Flywheel)

CA18 Loom

Custom CAS mount

T28 Dump pipe SS gasket

2No. -AN10 stainless weld on bungs

Clutch release bearing

3 inch muffler

3 inch 1.6mm pipe 2 meters

3 inch combo bends tube

Aeroflow Micron AN8 fuel filter

-AN6 Male Gauge Sensor Filling Adaptor ⅛” NPT (ECU Fuel pressure sensor)

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Just spent the night cutting bits from the rear off car, will update once its finished. Can't do engine end off car until this rebuilt turbo turns up so I can work out clearances.

 

ECU's and stuff like that. After some recommendations re G4 / G4+ range and sensors, Sooo what ones should I go with? 

 

MAP sensor

IAT / Air Intake Temperature Sensor 

Oil pressure switch?

Fuel pressure switch?

Boost control solenoid + switch?

 

Factory sensors to use

TPS (Rb20)

CAS

Water temp 

Knock sensor (Can this standard single wire unit be used, or better to just purchase new after market one?) 

 

Zorst Oxygen sensor? 

 

I'm guessing the number of the above selected will dictate what ECU model i require. 

 

Is it better to go crazy on the number of sensors or keep it simple? http://www.nzefi.com/products/engine-management/engine-management-sensors/

 

 

Advice greatly appreciated  

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It is better to go crazy if you have the means, data is knowledge and knowledge is power. Especially as this is a race car I would look into a telemetry setup too, as there is a really good one on the market for about $500.

But yea, all of those sensors plus oil temp, baro pressure, flex fuel sensor so you can run it on e85. You dont need to fork out tons for sensors either Russel, eBay is great for pressure transducers, and temp senders, and second hand flex fuel sensor out of a new Commodore would work great. I would also use ls coils and ditch the cop, as the heat will likely kill them.

I dont know much about ca's but dont the factory cas die on them? I would look into running a toothed wheel on the crank as well, so that you can just use the cas as a trigger for sequential spark, that way you can change it to wasted spark at the track if it dies, no idea if that is correct but sounds reasonable in my head hahaha.

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I would look into a telemetry setup

Whats a telemetry settup Rookie? Is that the digital display settups? 

 

 

You don't need to fork out tons for sensors either Russel, eBay is great for pressure transducers, and temp senders, and second hand flex fuel sensor out of a new Commodore would work great.

Noticed allot of them on EBay for significantly less new, The oil and fuel pressure ones alone are $200 each from NZefi. I'm just nervous about getting ones not compatible or knock offs. do you have a trusted seller you use? 

 

 

I dont know much about ca's but dont the factory cas die on them? 

Not familiar with this issue, I have two off them so at-least i can easily swap over, I guess something like that is going to be quite an old unit by now. But that's a good thing to consider cheers.

 

This looks like a simple loom! Probably too simple?  http://www.trademe.co.nz/a.aspx?id=999996747

 

Thanks for the advice Rookie :)

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A telemetry setup monitors what's going on with the car(g loads, speed, gps, wheel slip, shock loads etc), and driver inputs(accelerator, brakes, steering inputs, as well as gear), basically it gives you a picture of what the car is doing rather than seat of the pants feel. This is the one I was talking about.

https://www.autosportlabs.com/product/racecapturepro/

The ones on eBay are legit, and you do t have to worry about compatibility as long as you get a data sheet that tells you x pressure = y resistance as you can input it into the ECU.

Sweet as if you have a spare but it sucks having a $50 part put an end to a race day etc so worth thinking about, but like I said if you have the means, then go all out as it will make your days better and easier to find problems with you or the car hahaha

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I'm pretty sure you connect the ECU and the logger together with CAN, so no need to do extra wires for that. I wouldn't use any gauges, and just have a digital dash/tablet that you can cycle through to see specific things if you want/ when the warning light comes on. Well that is how I would do it, I dunno about you but I dont spend a lot of time looking at my gauges when I'm driving in anger hahaha.

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Ok Rad! How difficult are they to wire yup?

Quite easy best thing about them is they will control your whole car programable relay and fuse box run one heavy batt cable to it and then run power feeds out. cooling fans fuel pumps water pumps ect no extra relays or fuses required. fitted the last one to Curran brothers racing 26b quad turbo rx2 and it runs everything nitros line lock trans brake 3 cooling pumps 4 o2 sensors 2 step ect and can be all controlled so this will only work when this does that sort of thing so the ecu only needs to control spark and fuel everything is can bus back to the ecu temperatures and so on

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The CA's and RB's apparently have issues with poor oil return from the head.

So I intend to prod some rods down some holes like this;


1555311_10205355039902919_60783137076020

Except aim too achieve something more like this, returning too the sump.

12391114_565026226988736_446097884836892

AN will mean I can get the 90 deg bends rotated to the angle I require and still be tight.

The existing plugs holes are 25mm, so my chart research says that should take a 3/4"-14 NPT thread.

Find it a little confusing that a one inch hole accepts a 3/4 inch NPT. So if i have gotten something wrong here send abuse this way before I order the tools and parts :)

What charts and books do people normally use for this sorta magic? Need to get bettera at threads.

http://www.carbidedepot.com/formulas-tap-standard.htm

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