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jakesae101

Jakesae101s 1985 mazda 323 rally car

32 posts in this topic

There we go 

 

so in an effort to try keep some oil in the engine and not over my driveway / new shiny bits I chucked a new cam cover gasket in 

 

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I also fitted some side stone protection made from some industrial belt material i have had that was for my other car 

 

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its finally feeling like im getting towards the end now the list is getting smaller and smaller ive ordered my linkage so hopefully ill be able to report back after a test run this week 

 

image_zpsz43kfkde.jpeg

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Got my linkage and fitted it had a few issues and took quite a bit of fiddling to get it right including grinding the throttle wheel tab to get the idle down and shortening the return spring ect but in the end it all worked out just wayy more of a faf round than i thaught . Went to pick a part today and grabbed a newer coil that had a bracket as the old one was cable tied to be held in place in clearly the wrong bracket owell.

 

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for some reason none of my video links are working ill try to fix them later but it idles ect now 

https://youtu.be/vXEz4ZKxa8I

 

https://youtu.be/KAodGSoZxGE

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so not much has happened just tackling some of the small jobs and fixing some shitty wiring 

 

Ever since I got the car it seemed to take forever to warm up but the fans would come on since my sender was in the top hose and the fan switch wasn't I figured the thermostat may be stuck shut and it was when I tested it so , New thermostat , radiator cap and gasket went on. I also tidied up some wiring as the terratrip had a 15 A glass fuse in it and had those shitty push in holders I hate as they can cause bad connections so put in 2x new blade fuse holders and the correctly rated fuses. wired it up some dash switches to power the terratrip and intercom and the intercom seems to work but I need to buy some headsets to test it. Bled up the cooling system and sits rock solid at 180-190 deg F with the new thermostat and doesn't take long to warm up from cold.

 

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So progress haven't had much time to work on the beast with the house renos taking my time but ive taken a break and with some fine weather tackled some jobs.

 

so put new rollcage padding in and some new 6 point harness

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put in a 1.5 and a 1kg extinguisher in the car to meet requirements 

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and when i got the dcoe 45 off Blizzo he had washed the filter in petrol K&Ns don't like this and they shrink and go hard as you can see a bit of a difference 

 

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fitting it is a challenge as you can see its a wee bit tight for room 

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did a bunch of little bits and pieces like fix the washer jets so they spray in a useful place and clean the connector to the wiper motor so they would work properly , also sealed up a few firewall holes, greased the front caliper sliders , replaced the 2 mismatched ht leads, replaced a dodgy hose clamp and fitted a factory expansion bottle that i got from pick a part to replace the random one that was just sitting loose 

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so progress has been a bit slow with shitty weather ect 

 

but i have got some things done i brought a monit trip meter as it came up cheap got it all mounted up and on.

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now when i came to calibrate it it was showing no pulses for the terratrip probe in the gearbox i had had an issue once with the old tt2 but i put it down to wiring and re terminated the sensor on the back and it was sweet as. But this time i was getting nada and a new one is just over 90$ so in the words of AVE on youtube ya cant fuck it anymore so i took it apart and found the  orange cable had broken where it enters the potting for the sensor i removed the potting (and broke one leg off the sensor and resistor) so i ordered some 1k resistors and a honeywell ss41 hall effect sensor for a total of $2.70 with free shipping

 

this is what i found the cable was all cracked too and looked like it had been soldered by a 5 year old

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nice new bits 

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and all back together 

 

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tested it today after taking the axela round the block to mentally mark some distances 

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SUCCESS saved myself 80 odd dollars in the process

 

I also fitted a shaft stop on my linkage as my return spring being on the angle it was on kept sliding the arms on the pivots , fitted a new gearbox mount and a colder range set of plugs that were NOS obviously as i havent seen that packaging in years 

 

502174D6-D80E-411B-BD05-3135D6071B99_zps 

E95D163F-3FA2-40E5-AE3B-1A6FE2AC7BD8_zps

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sooo close to the end now been doing a whole bunch of tidyup stuff thats not noteworthy 

 

after a talk with webber specialties he gave me some jetting advice on, when the carb was on blizzos car the jetting was 

55 F8 idle 

F11 emulsion tubes 

125 mains 

170 air correctors 

 

his recommendations had the full setup but 

 

50 F9 idle jets 

F16 emulsion tubes 

150 mains

180 air correctors 

 

this was about 190$ worth of changes from nz and well that was just a bit too much for me this week so i got them in from the uk 105$ and was here in under a week

 

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I had had a hard starting issue with the new plugs from cold and a stumble when blipping the throttle and i couldn't tune it out, 

 

after talking to a friend that is much better at tuning carbs than me he asked my why i was still running my vac advance and that that could cause my issues with the stumble and just set it at 10deg at idle , so I changed my old plugs back today and found I hadn't tightened no4 so that is probably the hard starting issue haha . So today I removed the vac advance and tgb lent me his timing light and it was pretty much bang on 10 deg needed to wind in a bit more fuel as it was popping a bit so that was fine idling at 1100rpm quite fine (it isnt that smooth with the cam under that ) and the throttle response is much better than before . I have a lambda link afr gauge and a copy of a bosch lsm 11 semi wide band sensor to go in that ive had kicking round for years .

 

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so here is the result of todays efforts 

 

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so been cracking on with a few small jobs . A few weeks ago Blizzo commented on Rhyscar's facebook page showing some 3d printed trumpets so iI contacted the guy they were cheap enough to take a gamble on so I got a set.

this was about half way through sanding them smooth

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as you can see they fit nicely I also modified my air filter housing to have bolts right through to make it much easier to get the element in and out and the housing back together I also made some cable tie ignition lead holders to tidy up the engine bay and cable tied all the loose wiring that was in the engine bay

24B39DA4-CF70-4ADF-80F9-381633EB4CD4_zps

 

now last week while I was fiddling with some stuff I finally worked out what the snapped off switch by the drivers side door on the dash was it was for the fuel pump I had thought it was strange it had no switch  , So I moved that to a better place and put in a switch for the afr meter and a overide switch for the radiator fan just need to make up some labels at work . I also got my horn working that turned to to be the contact for the ring was a bit jammed up and it wasnt maing any contact so that is all working so I can get closer to getting a wof 

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ok so wee while between updates I blame the crap weather we have had and a busy schedule things have slowly been happening. Manu is currently modifying my aframe to work with the car so i can tow it round. 

 

I scored a bunch of bits off a guy I know that came off his old etude that he wrecked he was hording for that "one day"  he gets another that  that resulted in this happening much earlier than I expected they call it the vr4 conversion. Basically its 266mmx22mm vr4 mitisi rotors over mazda bfmp hubs that get machined to take the rotor over the top instead of bolted behind and then you use gtx calipers .

 

the rotors were almost brand new but needed skimming as they looked like they had sat in the sea but came up ok , the calipers are refurbished with new seals and the hubs had been modified and had longer studs put in the only bit I needed to get was some bfmp caliper bolts that weren't that easy to track down but I got there.

 

form this  

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To this 

 

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also scored a strut brace 

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While I was doing the brake upgrade I poked at a scabby patch that someone had put on and found a large rust hole so I was trying to find a patch panel from another car to make it much easier. I Hadn't seen one at pick a part in some time so I was trying a few other avenues and crustywhip said there was a KA laser at pick a part so I went down and liberated it of the section I needed it put up a good fight.

 

here's the patch ready to get cut up after i removed the spot welds here to remove the chassis rail its triple skinned here I dollied it back into shape after all the removal from the car and drilling it and cold chiseling it got a bit deformed

 

 

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Once that bit of rust is fixed its ready to race took it for a test drive after doing the brakes and they make a big difference will be better when they have some quality pads in them and it was my first drive since rejetting the carbs months ago man it runs way better more mid range. Have to get my o2 sensor bung fitted so I can see what the afrs are doing. 

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sooo stuff has been happening I moved out from UJs place into a place about 5 mins from home that I can have both cars in so cue moving cars and putting in storage ect.

 

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so basically that has sapped alot of $$ however I did sell off a bunch of bits that allowed me to buy some stuff 

 

025AABD9-195C-4C48-93AC-1518D61EE5FD_zps

4632CDFA-0D10-4BCC-B724-D7CC3BC0C882_zps

 

Randomly found this on yahoo Japan ummed and arrred about getting it then it became favorable $$ wise to bring it in its a 2.9kg chromoly flywheel (factory is 6.6kg im told) , And seeing as my clutch was almost at the end of its adjustment and the uptake was quite high I also purchased a new clutch kit and rear main seal.

B966407F-71AA-49D5-8B46-328ACD51AFA7_zps

 

Now last weekend when moving the car i noticed that the right rear drum was binding , now i never touched the rears because I didnt really want to mess with the drums but now had no choice i had suspected one wheel cyl was leaking anyway so I ordered new wheel cyls and had a set of new shoes in stock after buying them supercheap off trademe at the beginning of the year all up im about 45$ in as parts are super cheap.

 

Passengers side wheel cyl was stuck and not working at all and when I pulled the drivers side off the linings fell out they had come away from the shoes erm yea that will be that binding oh and the wheel cyl  was a bit stuck and leaking. Didnt get snap a photo stupidly of new gears in and just after I finished bleeding them the Coastguard pager went off so I haven't had a chance to road test it yet put pedal feel is much better.

 

58192C97-056B-4097-9D48-3B6753519C4A_zps

 

Ive signed up for the gravel sprint series next year so just need to do the following over christmas

Patch rust in passengers side inner guard 

Replace flywheel , clutch and rear main seal

Replace torn outer cv boot 

weld in o2 bung into exhaust and check afrs 

waterblast the massive amounts of dirt out of the wheel arches and rear suspension

 

probably wont be road legal for the first round but wont be far off 

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Right much like last year at christmas/ new years im getting stuck in after 4 days away over christmas i had to work 2 days before a 10 day holiday so.....

 

Thursday night i started to remove the box and swap over flywheel and jam a new clutch kit and rear main seal in whilst I had it all out to my surprise it has a puk clutch in it with a standard pressure plate the plates a worn ish so i chucked my new HD exedy clutch kit in.

 

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all relatively painless turned a bit of 20x20 box into a flywheel holding tool a mate gave me a hand and all up it probably was abut 5-6 hours work , Certainly much easier than my ae92 

revs up pretty fast the new flywheel is less than half the weight of the old one bum dyno suggests its a bit faster and now the brakes work its less sketchy 

 

 

anywho todays job was tackling the last bit of known rust i cut it all out and patched it with the patch panel i had including patching up the chassis rail as it had rusted through both skins , all relatively painless skim coat of filler and some rust kill and underseal looks mint , with a authority card ect it would pass a wof now I hope.

from this 

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to this 

 

17C83DA1-74C5-4C90-9FC2-EEA090590046_zps

 

truck bed liner stuff ive used looks shiny but will go matte when dry its a bit harder wearing than underseal  on gravel ive found and here's a short vid its quite revy now 

 

th_A1BF3BDF-4EB4-4399-9963-063449C6E825_

 

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Not much else has been happening really purchased another better A frame from Crustywhip have been trying to get it ready for the first round of the sprint series next week but have fallen short with the car being ready but me not so much with $$$ a bit short currently i need to get new overalls and resit my license as I let it lapse a couple of years ago 

B9C40BBB-FE10-4228-BAE8-309C973A7033_zps

semi sorted my roof with some plastidip untill I can afford to get it properly done still a bit rough but it will do for now 

 

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Got the missus to give it a good scrub up whilst I was repairing her new mazdas broken window motor gear came up looking semi respectable if you dont look too hard.

 

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basically ready to run now probably needs a jam on a dyno at some point to fine tune and I need to make up a bashplate / underbody protection it came with some thin as alloy plate so hopefully iI can use that for a template.

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