Ashkellybarr Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 Love your work. Have your tried vacuum bagging your carbon ? Nah not yet! I'd like to but don't have a pump and it seems like a lot more work. I've just been sanding with 600 then giving it another light coat of laminate epoxi to get that wet look After pulling the over fender skins off the rear and seeing how smooth and strong it came out I don't think I'll bother vac bagging for the bonnet or boot. Paint brushes and stippling the air out seems to work, and net a good result when taking time with a summer resin to work it all through. After doing the rear guard molds and having a good result has made me a lot more eager to do the bonnet and boot. Maybe a replica of my factory fibre glass engine lid so I can mod that instead of cutting the factory one witch I don't want to do since their so sort after Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 Awesome. Do you have paddle and grooves rollers? They work pretty damn good. Are those rear skins your final guard Or the mould? You Can always roll down pieces if mylar and peel off when cured. The mylar holds everything down flat and smooth and makes sanding etc really easy Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 Awesome. Do you have paddle and grooves rollers? They work pretty damn good. Are those rear skins your final guard Or the mould? You Can always roll down pieces if mylar and peel off when cured. The mylar holds everything down flat and smooth and makes sanding etc really easy Nah I gave up on rollers, had to use to much thinners to clean them properly and then they still get stuck and haft to throw them out.I bulk buy paint brushes at less then 50cents each so I just throw them away after every use. Takes bit longer then the rollers but you don't get that pull in the weave when some straind gets cought in the roller then pulls all the weave haha I don't miss that. The Mylar's a good idea! Have used glad wrap before haha Made an intake for a friend by getting lots of 1.5L nz pure water bottles and cut the ends off, joins them together and bent where I needed around an engine bay and wrapped tightly in glad wrap. Was pretty crude haha but after some heavy sanding and another two ply of glass it came up nice, super light and the perfect shape And yeah they will be I final. Only did two ply so I can space it out and reshape whole guard then add strength. I want to make the guards a bit bigger then factory so using the positive and building on the outside will help, it's a bit of a backwards way to do it I know but time and material wise it work out pretty good. Will just mean lots of sanding before its ready to prep for paint Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 24, 2015 Share Posted November 24, 2015 Nice man! years ago (about 13 years I think) I started building an aw11 widebody kit. I used thin MDF screwed to the body with MDF packers to force the curve in- then the top surface was fabric stretched and glued into place then soaked in resin. I bought it up to the stage where I needed to start bogging and sanding but shit broke down with the Mrs and I had to lose my shed space.. There were a few kick ass cars around that I flogged the general shapes idea from.. I think the lancia delta integrale was one Anyway.. I'm rambling even more than usual now. If ya leave ur skin too thin then add too much glass it will sag..be careful! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted November 27, 2015 Share Posted November 27, 2015 Anyway.. I'm rambling even more than usual now. If ya leave ur skin too thin then add too much glass it will sag..be careful! Haha nah all good. So you started an AW wide body?! Any photo's? You weren't on the old clubAW were you?? I really wanted to copy Audi rs4 2014 rear guards, their kind of a cross between a box guard and a flare. Un-believably I couldn't find anyone willing to let me smother their new Audi in epoxi. thoroughly disappointed! Maybe next time... 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted November 28, 2015 Share Posted November 28, 2015 Can't remember about clubaw. Looks great in ya update though man. Very subtle! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 ClubAW was awesome. I take it from that last post that you're keeping the standard viscous LSD rather than going for a plate type or torsen type unit? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ashkellybarr Posted December 21, 2015 Share Posted December 21, 2015 ClubAW was awesome. I take it from that last post that you're keeping the standard viscous LSD rather than going for a plate type or torsen type unit? I know! I'm gutted i missed out on that forum and club. That and all the juicy pages are missing! Yeah I've got 3 e58's sitting here. One of witch I picked up for $80 So I'll pull them apart, add a new 2nd and 3rd synchro and bearings and leave it at that. Barry Manon said I'll shread them running huge power so if that happens I'll rebuild the 51 with a kazz 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Truenotch Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Those flares will look great when you get them right! I'm tempted to get you to make me a bonnet too... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 16, 2016 Share Posted February 16, 2016 Dunno how much mould making you have done but adding the bracing now MIGHT cause you problems. Make sure you mix up a coldish batch of resin and hopefully your existing layup is thick enough to stop any distortion caused by the new glass. Rather than building cardboard sides could ya just cut all the hairy stuff off and do without? Plastercine is great for filling any porus areas that aren't important (resin doesn't stick to it obviously) Also, as an alternative to wood bracing, cardboard tubes slit lengthways work well. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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