Raizer Posted March 1, 2016 Author Share Posted March 1, 2016 Yeah 4 corner, was running too lean mid throttle during run in. Need to measure clearances to be absolutely sure it's not piston slap, skirts look fine though so I'm pretty sure the big end bearing cooked. Very distant future will see one of these in my cases 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
felixx Posted March 1, 2016 Share Posted March 1, 2016 I love your work mate 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 This should give a good reliable engine Sorry. Had to do it. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted March 2, 2016 Author Share Posted March 2, 2016 Lol it should have, just needed a good reliable tuner Annnd the fucked big end turned out to be a flogged out flywheel keyway... :oops: :oops: Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 Lul, so the crank is fine? you reckon the flywheel imbalance caused the toast? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted March 2, 2016 Author Share Posted March 2, 2016 Toasting was my lean jetting. Crank measures up well within spec Mines coming up at 1.2mm side movement, the old engine is 1.3mm. I'm fairly convinced that the flywheel rocking around a touch on it's taper was the metallic clunk, removed the flywheel and it went away, I think when I majorly overheated it, it somehow allowed the flywheel to come free a touch? Don't think "rattle gun tight" was torqued enough either. Either way I cleaned up the tapers, changed the key and torqued it up to 60NM and it's not ringing now: Still a bit of noise, but not that loud ringing clunk from yesterday. Other engine that I'd been using *Tried 2 different bores and 3 different small end bearings to rule out anything related to them. vs yesterday Have cleaned the alloy from the bore as best as I can without taking too much off the cylinder Little bit of oily 400g sorted the piston Now I'm going to throw it back together, solder and drill a slow jet to about 37 (I've only got 35 and 2 40s) and cross my fingers! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kyteler Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 Crossing fingers here for you too. Good old 2-smokes. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted March 2, 2016 Author Share Posted March 2, 2016 Super rich!!But it's sounding a shit load better, bit of rattling from the variator but I'm running it dry so it's to be expected. Just need to work out what needle to run, A21 lifted was a bit lean, A33 is way too rich lol. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
johnnyfive Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 Good news! Like like like 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted March 2, 2016 Author Share Posted March 2, 2016 I'm thinking A20 needle should be the winner, will try it tomorrow. Have already found A13 & A21 to both be close, but a bit lean mid throttle (seized with the A13), A33 is clearly super rich, so A20 makes sense to me. Then hopefully after another short run in period it will be wheelies on again!! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
TimShadboltfan27 Posted March 2, 2016 Share Posted March 2, 2016 potential /ling here but why does wheel not rotate when it idles? being auto i assumed it always spins if it can, or is it something to do with the new rollers? 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted March 2, 2016 Author Share Posted March 2, 2016 It's got a centrifugal clutch on the gearbox's input shaft, on a stock set up it will engage at around 2000rpm. Mines set up to engage around 5500rpm. Can see the clutch shoes here, the bell goes over them and is splined to the input shaft. The rollers also work on a centrifugal force, when the engine is reving they push the faces of the variator together moving the belt further out on the front pully which pulls it down into the rear pully changing the ratio. Heavier rollers shift the ratio at a lower RPM, lighter ones shift at a higher RPM, by playing with different weights you can set the variator to work right on the peak of your power band for maximum acceleration. The right weight combined with a high clutch engagement means there's no slow acceleration while waiting for the engine to come on pipe. Edit: combine that with a loud pipe and you get a lot of attention when you're trying to just get moving from a standstill in busy carparks haha Going to be even less discreet/more fun now that it's trying to do wheelies every time the clutch bites! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted March 3, 2016 Author Share Posted March 3, 2016 Getting closer, still not there yet though! Can't believe how much fuel this engine seems to demand!! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MKD Posted March 4, 2016 Share Posted March 4, 2016 bigger carb time? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted March 4, 2016 Author Share Posted March 4, 2016 bigger carb time? This IS the bigger carb! Stock was 12mm, this is 17.5mm, to go any bigger would require a custom manifold, the 17.5 should be big enough for my engine though. I've got it pretty much dialled in today too, need to get a few bigger main jets to play with to get the most from WOT, but the low-mid range is pretty much spot on now, soo much torque compared to the 49cc cylinder!!! Made a solid as fuck bracket for the airbox Managed to get the elbow to seal both on the carb and into the box Then added probably the most important extra mod so far haha No more having my phone going flat cranking music + GPS etc when on a long ride! Also started wiring my AC to DC wiring for my LED lightbar 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted March 5, 2016 Author Share Posted March 5, 2016 Cleaned up the rest of the plastics and got it looking like a complete scooter again! Am thinking of tearing it down in the somewhat distant future and giving it a quick paint job, need to find a new tail light and maybe some better condition plastics first -not to mention money and enthusiasm to spend hours sanding! Finished wiring up the LED lightbar, hooked it up on a swtich so it can only be turned on when the high beam is on. While it looks a little odd on the front, I think the trade off is going to be worth it Shits bright as fuck! My centre stand needs to have the mount plates remade, the guy who welded up my Stage 6 pipe is going to watercut some new plates and weld them on for me, we're going to lift the stand maybe 10mm at the same time so the bigger tyre doesn't touch the ground when it's up on the stand. Next mission is to tidy up this mess Have got a couple ideas for it, need to work in mounts for the CHT display and the volt meter. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted March 11, 2016 Author Share Posted March 11, 2016 Have got a pile or larger jets coming from Aliexpress, again Jack at "Speed Up" has looked after me and is chucking in some extras for me http://www.aliexpress.com/store/1540211 Really got to replace the battery, this thing just doesn't have the guts to start the engine cold Replacement CHT display turned up today, seems to work well just measuring the ambient temp with the little probe thermocouple it came with Epoxied the screen into the dead ones black housing to seal it Used the dark filter from the dead one too Now to try to mount it and wire it up! Also wheelies are fun!! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 Been a while. Made a mess of my plastics to make a mount for that CHT display And found that the thermocouple I'd been sent was fucked, so got sent a replacement, wired it up only to have the smoke come out of the CHT display FFS. Ordered a better CHT display which should be here next week, but it's bigger and won't fit where I made the mount. Going to just bung a volt meter in the hole Will have to find somewhere else to mount the new CHT display though. Sprayed some of my plastics with bed liner Looks better now it's dry, thinking of going all VG on that ride on in the pic... The stand was pretty flogged out, the 8mm holes were more like 14mm slots and the plates were all up to shit so the scoot would wobble all over the place when on the stand. Had a couple new plates water jet cut and welded on but the guy who welded up my Stage6 exhaust Not bad for beers. Bit of shaping with my biggest hammer then a quick coat of paint = sorted MopedNZ has hooked me up with the tanks, seat and seat bucket from the facelift version Let's/AZ50 he's stripping (Cheers again!) These move the fuel filler to under the seat, which will let me use a helmet box on the factory wire carrier (there's no way my helmet will fit under the seat) 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 Last post was getting a bit pic heavy and has brought it up to today. Went to fit the facelift seat bucket today, as expected there is a couple little brackets that will need to be cut off, no biggie. But I wasn't expecting the seat bucket to foul against the latch that locks the seat down! New seat bucket And the old one, note it's got a deeper channel bit to clear the latch Fingers crossed a bit of time with Mr. A Grinder can solve it! When reassembling the engine I'd cut down the little mudguard that is meant to protect the carb as it was well fucked (note how close the tyre is to it) Well as I really don't like the idea of my Dellorto getting soaked and mud splattered this winter I figured I should try to come up with something to protect it. Used the end of an old read mudguard and did a bit of cutting, heat shaping and plastic welding to make this When I went to pull it off the engine to mod, I noticed that my rear wheel was rather loose and had a good 2mm+ of play on the axle spline! Checked the nut and it was tight as fuck! Pulled the wheel off and found that it had been floating in far enough to rub on the engine case, so I tried the 2 other wheels I have spare. The first one was slightly worse than the one I've been running, the other one fits perfect, measured them all and they all have slightly different spline lengths, funny cause there all from the same model scooter! As I've already given the wheel that fits correctly to MopedNZ I have ended up finding a spacer that fits the axle to space it out a bit, think VG had made it for the steering, seems to work perfectly. Forgot to get a pic, but there is marks inside the brake drum where the edge of the shoes have been wearing into the wheel too. Other bonus is the wheel now sits closer to the centre of the scoot and doesn't rub the little guard piece any more. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Raizer Posted April 8, 2016 Author Share Posted April 8, 2016 Tuning time again! Jack from Speed Up on Aliexpress came through for me again with fast shipping and bonus freebie jets The last set up in it was a 108MJ, 40SJ, A21 needle lifted to max rich and about 3.5 turns out on the air screw. Which was rich as hell at idle, fairly close mid throttle, slightly lean WOT. So I started out today by fitting a 37SJ, 112MJ, tore the fucking airbox neck taking it off :evil: :evil: Added some tape to restrict the foam filter I've had sitting around. These filters can be pricks to tune with, needing HUGE upjets over the stock box, a member on another forum I frequent has found wrapping them like this makes them MUCH easier to tune and only needing slightly bigger jetting than you would with a airbox. Fired it up and set the air screw (about 2 turns out, much better) then tried to give it a rev... Hmmm talk about rich! Needle was still lifted to the full rich spot, so I dropped it down 2 slots to the centre and tried again Think I need to lift the needle 1 slot again as it's hanging in the revs a bit? And yeah that's where I'm at ATM. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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