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The Pog's 1965 HumpHer


ThePog

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To the best of my knowledge (and bourbon ravaged memory!) both the MkIIA & MkIIB Powerstop boosters came with either 5/8” or 3/4” bore sizes. They both share the same size control valve so the crack pressure is the same but with the increase in boost at 41.9 % the difference is significant. They are not difficult to rebuild although the rocker/poppet control valve makes them somewhat quirky & different to your average Hydrovac booste, (I used to teach staff how to overhaul them and other boosters in the early 80’s at APPCO Brake & Clutch).

I’m not overly familiar with the 65 Snipe but I’m making the assumption it has boosted front disk brakes and no assistance on the rear drums? With the 3/4” Powerstop being suitable for a full boosted drum/drum setup fitted to the Snipe you’ll end up with far less assistance and far too much rear bias – very handy for chucking the rear out under brakes to get it sideways (it’s a blokes thing!) but a little scary on the motorway in the wet.
Your options are limited to rebuilding the existing booster (kits available on eBay) or fitting an Aussie BPR VH40, (avoid the temptation of the more commonly available VH44 as it has a 5/8 slave and a smaller vacuum diaphragm).

Hope this helps, great project and feel free to ask for more advice. If you were closer to Auck. I’d say bring both boosters and a 6 pack to the Milford man cave and see what we can do.

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yea that is gold....

 

So I just went to check and both the front and back are going through the booster. Disc/drum setup and the booster bore is 5/8th.

 

From what you are saying the 0.7" bore of the MG booster will be ok/provide more boost..?

 

The MG booster cylinder got a hone and a missing circlip replaced today, the reaction piston is stuck in there but I suspect things will need to be hooked up before this will come out.

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 At .7" (I suspect it's probably 3/4" i.e. .75") the MG booster will have less boost but more fluid displacement than the original smaller 5/8" booster. The good news is that with the booster being connected to both front and rear axels you will not alter the front/rear bias.

Hook it up and give it a go, you'll need to give it a "little more jandal" when you hit the brakes but you just may get away with it.

 

Let us know how it goes.

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So thinking about this was keeping me awake last night, but mostly cos I could not remember which side of the diaphragm the vacuum line was, and hence which was the inlet and outlet ports.

 

So then I thought 'how does the fluid get past the piston and thus to the brakes when bleeding it all?' Then i realised the piston seal was a cup seal, so fluid can get past it on the way to the brakes...

 

Am I right?

 

And should i prime the cylinder as much as possible first to minimise the amount of air?

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ummm , may have missed something in my quick read , but ; if you are getting fluid into the booster it is the hydaulic side leaking NOT the vacuum side , with a remote booster you in essence have two m/cyls one on the pedal one on the remote booster so its the 2nd one that has the issue and you should be able to hone/sleeve and match up seals .... appologies again if you had that figured and I missed it !

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So, Ive been hovering at the peripheries Filbee you c*nt. I thought I'd chime in with a brief history of the old girl as a bit of background for those following. As you may have guessed, I am the former owner of said Super Snipe, she is a 1965 Series 5a, the 5b being the last snipe and the end of the humber make in 1967 when sold to Chrysler. The 5b's are basically the same with every last option from the parts bin (and series 1-4 have a different roof and single carb among other features). This is approximately the 60th car I have onwned in my life, and by far and away the best (many escorts, KP starlets and a mk3 zephyr to name but a few). She is neither entirely pretty, nor fast, nor does she pull the ladies (under 30...mostly as Dyl mentioned it is a magnet for retired old men), but purchased on whim some 7 odd years ago after being curious about them and having passed up a silver series 5 with red interior, i thought bugger it. It came up repeatedly on TM and kept closing without selling, the asking price of $1200 and location gore. I ended up getting her for $1k (2009 i believe). She had not seen the light of day for 16 years and was deregistered, I brought from the 2nd owner, who had owned for those 16 years and had covered approximately 300 miles in that time (Filbs has all this documentation, the service history from new etc etc, he probably hasnt even looked at it!). The first owner purchased it new in 65 in Invercargill, and she was built on the Todd motors assembly line in Wellington, like many old things on this forum I'm sure. At the time you had to have overseas funds to purchase cars, so this generally meant you had to have proper money, and these things were proper money. Your choices were a Bentley, Rolls, Jag or one of these. Having driven Jags (cant speak for the others) these are in my eyes a better car.

 

So this particular example sports the borg-warner DG250 series transmission option being a BW type35) without overdrive (unfortunately - however there are a few of these still around), its essentially a hybrid manual/auto and you will notice this when you drive it Dyl, she has engine braking! It also leaks like nothing else, despite having had all new external seals and about 3 trans-pan gaskets.. She also has Power steering, many cigarette lighters and map/reading lights, the picnic trays, a fuel light, much body deadening and soundproofing (1600kg!!), twin 175 strombergs, electric washers and 2-speed wipers, and the proud honour of being the first british car with twin headlights. Much of which adds up to a well-sorted luxo-barge of its day. Almost everything still works, aside from the smiths clock, which will surprise no-one. The instruments are Jager, I think same as Jag, as are many other bits and bobs throughout. She will cruise comfortably at 120 as Dylan mentioned, and the ton is no problem whatsoever, it is like a barely controllable cloud at such speed (only done once just to see).. She will not break traction though, she is not that kind of girl.

 

So I got the old girl with 113miles on the clock from memory, and it was my daily hack for about 3 years until the trans dumped its shit all over the road one day. It was a supremely reliable daily driver, in fact after getting the thing legal when first purchased, I drove took it to 100km/h for its first time in 16 years on the way to the Coromandel from Chch, without missing a beat covering nearly 3000k in the first outing! I covered 15000 miles in my tenure, and the lsit of repairs/maintenance over that time is fairly extensive.

 

To get her back on the road she required a fair amount of rust work; inner wheel arches, floor, inner sills, outriggers, lower quarters inner and outer, boot floor, and also part of the front valence to be remade. I did all except the front valence which I had a skilled old dude sort (I was once a panelbeater, but this bit required someone with grey hair and an english wheel). Other bits done were a rebuilt p/s ram, rebuilt booster (as per above troubles), new brake hoses, rebuilt front callipers and a few bulbs from memory. Over the ensuing years she received new rear gas shocks (landrover ones were the only thing they could find to fit), rebuilt carbs (still leaking!), front wheel bearings, and many indicator flashers.. In about 2011, the rear trans seal blew so I parked her for about 2 years. Late 2012, I pulled the motor and box, sent the box off for a reseal and pulled the pants off the motor, which still looked like the day it was built so just cleaned out the sump and oil pickup and gave the motor a coat of paint, threw new gaskets everywhere and put it all back together. Never used oil or water so I saw no need to do anything else. Before the motor and box went back in the bay was blasted and painted also. She was put back on the road in time for a mates wedding http://markharris.co.nz/wedding-paula-jay/ and then back to service she went. Had some wiring redone in the rear about that time too. 

 

In the last two years shes been in mostly regular service. The kingpins and a-arm bushes were done last year ($2k!) and early this year I picked up a parts car which had a brand new radiator, the radio, indicator stalk, full set of new seatbelts and many other small bits. Sold that for what I paid.. I also did driveshaft uni's and diff seals/gaskets this year too.

 

Much to my partners disgust Dylan got his way, after a small amount of hounding and I relinquished ownership this year. I expect this will now be my south island car (now an Aucklander) and having covered another 700-odd miles over xmas with my 2 under-3 sons in tow, I can attest to the practicality of this car. In fact, once again this was our only car for about 2 months early this year due to someone writing off our wagon, needless to say she performed the task without fuss.

 

Thats my waffle, Im sure I have many other facts stored away, but I know its in good hands and when circumstances allow I will probably get another rootes-group car, they are well under-rated. Look forward to the slam Filbee.

 

Jones.

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It will be a v8 and steelies if it is to be anything. My philosophy was always to keep it running, I've had far too many unusable/unfinished projects to justify tinkering on this one. I trust Dylan will do what is right, whatever that may be

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Ok so this may be helpful...

I replaced a clutch master cylinder (basically the same idea) and suddenly the clutch would get a small line pressure. the more times the pedal was pressed, the more pressure would be held.

Turns out after much head scratching, the aftermarket master had a circlip and washer fitted in the top, and this was preventing (by only a mm or so) the piston fully returning. therefore preventing the small valve in the piston from releasing pressure.

We eventually figured this out by removing the circlip/washer and blowing through the ports and releasing the piston to the point of air flowing from outlet to inlet. The point this one did was right flush/above the circlip position.

Woohoo, refitted and all was well.

What a rant

maybe helpful info?

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Maybe. There is a circlip groove in there for retaining the piston, but there was no circlip in there. Thinking on it tho the piston could not move any further back than it does already. I first assembled it with a circlip, but the seal washer stack behind it seemed too compressed so second time I left it out. Also the first thing after the circlip is a spring and there was no happy seating for it with the circlip in place.

 

I have been thinking to put a heavier spring into the air valve setup to help the control piston return and equalise the vac pressure at idle.

 

I have also just read that removing one of the two o rings on the control piston might free it up enough..

 

Checked all the piston stuff on the old servo and it looks ok, just need to go through the poppet valve bits.

 

I shall push forward on both fronts.

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