M M

M M's 1985 BMW E28 525e

47 posts in this topic

Might pay to note that the E34 trailing arms didn't work because of your early E28 subframe...

 

Will dig out a pic for you of how I bypassed the SI Board on my E30, same dysfunctional leaking battery issue, and kept the gauges all running.

(presuming the same era will use the same / similar SI board)

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Might pay to note that the E34 trailing arms didn't work because of your early E28 subframe...

 

Will dig out a pic for you of how I bypassed the SI Board on my E30, same dysfunctional leaking battery issue, and kept the gauges all running.

(presuming the same era will use the same / similar SI board)

Yeah I found out about the subframe from some guys on Bimmersport. Sort of wish I knew that eariler but you live and learn and all that.

Yeah please show me about the cluster. I just pulled the batteries out and hoped it would work (I read somewhere that it should).

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Yeah, that was me.

 

 

Found the pics, but I didn't have one with the jumpers installed *doh*

Will have a look for the cluster at home as it is out of the car at the moment.

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get a hammer an punch and give the broken drill a dammed good wack

 

its hard steel so should smash it. if it doesnt, get a new colbolt drill bit (infact get a couple of them and start out with a very small one) and drill it out. extra points if you use a left hand one because it might loosen the broken one and the stud while you drill it.

 

i removed a snapped off stud with a snapped off stud extractor inside it with the use of a good drill and a new colbolt bit

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Yeah, that was me.

 

 

Found the pics, but I didn't have one with the jumpers installed *doh*

Will have a look for the cluster at home as it is out of the car at the moment.

Oh, haha. Thanks man.

 

 

get a hammer an punch and give the broken drill a dammed good wack

 

its hard steel so should smash it. if it doesnt, get a new colbolt drill bit (infact get a couple of them and start out with a very small one) and drill it out. extra points if you use a left hand one because it might loosen the broken one and the stud while you drill it.

 

i removed a snapped off stud with a snapped off stud extractor inside it with the use of a good drill and a new colbolt bit

That's exactly what I did and now it's out. But the left hand thing is a good idea, that I didn't think of.

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the price of a left handed bit is quite a bit more than a standard one, but... if you have a lot of potential stuck bolts its handy

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the price of a left handed bit is quite a bit more than a standard one, but... if you have a lot of potential stuck bolts its handy

Cool, will definitely keep it in mind should this happen again (which I very much hope it doesn't, but no doubt will).

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Hi mate

Might pay to check all sensors...again.

The reason I say this is a wee bit of a story that gives like this.

Karl had a 525i .....fucked the motor had another running 525i swapped the block in so he keep all the manifolds and everything from the fucked motor in place and just slotted in a running long block.

Would turn over and never start....this went in for a year or so...everyone had a go at it...

Had it in my garage for a week and had a mate put all the diagnostic tools on it and couldn't find anything..

Changed all relays and fuses in the car ....testest the fuel pump and setup over and over again..I then killed my self .

Karl then sold the 525i to Bart......

Bart fucked around with it for agers and he got it started..(patients of a saint that man.)

Ended up being ...dun dun daaaaaaaaaa. The crank angle sensor was a wee bit to far away from the pick up..think he had to move it back in about 3mm .

It then blow a head gasket.....but that's another yarn.

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I am currently going through the process of doing just that. Got a crank angle sensor yesterday to test, however it's from a m50 motor so will have to make sure it's the same. The funny thing is, my crank angle sensor is showing odd resistance values, yet it worked on another car. I tried adjusting it's distance too but that didn't help. I am 99% certain however that it has something to do with it, there is nothing else that would stop spark, except a dead ECU. But I know for a fact that the ECUs are ok.

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I've had problems in the past with conversation not starting for

Bad earths straps ,no earths.

Power supply not thick enough.

Dead relays.

Fucked sensor.

I fully understand wanting to keep things factory but the last 2 conversations I've bought older style link ecus of trade me and wired them in.

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I tried all those things man, trust me. What puzzles me is what changed between when I unplugged it all and put it all back exactly as it was. I did check the grounds, power supply etc but those are all exactly the same from when it went and now. Yesterday I tried another crank sensor, off a different motor but with same resistance reading, got nothing. Also tried to jump 5v to the pin that loses it when the sensor is plugged in, it was showing 5v on the multimeter with it jumped like it should but still no start.

 

I don't care about keeping it factory, I just want the car going. I think I'm at the point of just doing Megasquirt, I was thinking about doing it later on anyway. But I hate being defeated by something so stupid as this so I won't give up just yet.

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Have you tryed asking the guys on bimmersport for some input....

Its the most fucked up thing in the world that you can put it all together......have it running ....do something so minor ....and now it won't start.

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Have you tryed asking the guys on bimmersport for some input....

Its the most fucked up thing in the world that you can put it all together......have it running ....do something so minor ....and now it won't start.

Tell me about it. Yeah I have but no one seems to have any idea. I've got one guy who I deal with for parts who's been helpful but can only do so much. The funny thing is usually people come to me for wiring issues so I'm sort of on my own on this one it seems.

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So your 100% sure the ecu and crank sensor are fine.

Then it has to be something simple that your over looking.

I know probably not helping ay..

Maybe try unplugging everything and then going threw it all and plugging it all back in ....you might stumble across something..

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So your 100% sure the ecu and crank sensor are fine.

Then it has to be something simple that your over looking.

I know probably not helping ay..

Maybe try unplugging everything and then going threw it all and plugging it all back in ....you might stumble across something..

I'm 100% that it's not the ECUs because both worked on another car so one is bound to be fine. They are also both outputting the correct voltages etc at all the pins.

 

The crank sensor I am not 100% sure on but am almost certain it has something to do with it, but might not be the sensor itself. It's the only thing that can cause it not to spark. I think I'm going to swap looms again just in case, but there are only 6 or so plugs + injectors so it's very hard to miss anything.

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I seriously hope so but somehow I doubt it'll be that easy.

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Have you checked all wiring back to the ecu with a multimeter? Could be a broken wire somewhere

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Have you checked all wiring back to the ecu with a multimeter? Could be a broken wire somewhere

Yep. But there is that issue of when the crank sensor is plugged in, the voltage to the 5v pin drops to 0.4v or so. I haven't been able to find the cause of this issue yet, it does it with both sensors I tried.

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Sounds like there could be a short in the sensor or wiring. Have you tried the sensor in another car?

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