EFI_LC Posted December 13, 2014 Share Posted December 13, 2014 I Decided to go circuit racing and what ever else including club day, grass, cross etc. so bought a we starlet which has had some racing for the past 15 years or so. I figured having a homolagated cage and kitted out with some gear plus 2 sets of wheels was a good start. The Plates are live and on hold so maybe one day..... Here is it so far. 12/12/2014 5 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted December 13, 2014 Author Share Posted December 13, 2014 Bit of a cutting and trying a few times to make sure i have the right amount done. I still need to raise the tunnel a bit more as the 6-speed sits quite high. Other than that I will remove the old 12a mounts to make some more room around the oil filter. Bit of mig welding over the next few weeks and it should be done. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted December 20, 2014 Author Share Posted December 20, 2014 I did a bit more today when I finally got time. I was unable to do any welding as I am borrowing a little mig and got it tonight. I can see plenty of work coming up. I cut a bit more out and was able to move the engine back so that #2 is just behind the front wheels. The Plenum now sits where the firewall was, I made 1 downward cut and bent the firewall back to make room for it, Once I tidy the firewall I will be making a totally new tunnel around the gear lever and adding strength back into the floor as the body cross member was cut before I got the car. The plan for the handbrake is to move it sideways so it is beside the gear lever, I wont need it very often. I thing on the urgent list after its running is I need to raise the suspension back up a bit as all the geometry and performance is shit but will make a multi-link rear at the same time so I will spend a bit of time the way it is until I get another diff. Plenty of other things as well but the big one will be wiring this thing. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted December 20, 2014 Author Share Posted December 20, 2014 It's been a lot of years since I last welded panel steel and it showed but hopefully Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted December 21, 2014 Author Share Posted December 21, 2014 I made a cardboard template then found a use for the spare commodore boot that I was given 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted December 22, 2014 Author Share Posted December 22, 2014 Did a bit more panel bending and a little welding tonight after work, pot riveted a piece in to weld later. It's slowly taking shape, I should be able to start on the engine mounts soon and still have the hardest for last, the gearbox mount and the fabrication of the gear lever part and this will combine as structural for the centre cross member. While I am under the car doing the gearbox I will weld some seams to hold another 20 years of racing I need to fold the top of the back section forward to follow the tunnel angle then weld in the other pics box then cut the left and bend forward to meet the the other pics box. This should create almost a complete closed in firewall. Other tidy ups will be easy then weld it all up 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted December 23, 2014 Author Share Posted December 23, 2014 Spent another hour and a half after work and this part is almost finished and I am happy now my jigsaw has almost been done and just a minor hole to fill and some tidy ups. This car is already stronger than it was, Fill the gap Trim the overhang 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted December 26, 2014 Author Share Posted December 26, 2014 Well Christmas slowed me down a bit and I needed to do some house maintenance as well but I have the engine mounts made and positioned and tacked in while I Double check clearances around the bottom of the engine. I took some pics before I finished with the current position and noticed the sump was very close to the bottom lip of the crossmember so need to double check that as well as the 5mm clearance of the crossmember in the centre where it has a raised piece. I have positioned the engine more to the left to give clearance to the brake booster and since I sit on the right figure it shouldn't affect it too much. Now that has been done I can now Fabricate the gear lever area. I would have built an entire new tunnel but as the roll cage has 2 bars meet on top of the tunnel I can't raise it any further. Fabrication to do tomorrow: Gearbox mount, I have 100mm gap and also need to weld a plate to the top floor to beef it up. Gear lever enclosure Crossmember over tunnel Move and raise slightly the handbrake (to give more room for the driveshaft so the back of the gearbox can sit as high as possible) 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted December 27, 2014 Author Share Posted December 27, 2014 Well it's been just over 2 weeks and a couple of hours each night after work and trying to do the usual and work on this on the weekends I feel I am making good progress, I have the engine in and out about 6-8 times measuring eyeing things up and testing etc.. I have some more pics showing the mounts tacked in. I welded the back up and may weld a small brace on the front but by leaving this open I can unbolt them easily. Sitting nicely although slightly one side but plenty of room This is the right side gearbox mount, just need to weld a couple of nuts in the correct place, the flat side welds to the tunnel and the other side I have contoured to fit the floor, I need to spend some time grinding the 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted December 28, 2014 Author Share Posted December 28, 2014 So today I completed the gearbox mounts although I need to tidy them to look nicer. When the 6-speed mount is used it hangs as low as the rear foot wells, I will however need to use the 2 piece tail shaft. I have heard and witnessed that any engine revving over 7000rpm in the Toyota range is recommended to use them, something to do with Harmonics and coming from a Holden 202 I know all about bad harmonics. The 202 would drop flywheels if revved over 6000rpm. I also pulled the back flare off as the last owner used the stock tank and pumped fuel up to a surge tank which is what I will do as well, I need to make a hole in the flare to get to the fuel filler or turn it to face the inside and fill it through the hatch.I thought I would size up my 15" DOT race tires as this is the size I want to eventually use. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted December 30, 2014 Author Share Posted December 30, 2014 I may cut and lengthen the rear flare/arches to allow 15" wheels, the fronts may be ok. Once I have it ready to 15" wheels then I can get a decent diff and larger brakes later. After work today I angled the handbrake and tacked the rear section of the gearbox tunnel. I intend on pot riveting the top piece on so it can be removed to get the gear lever off if needed. I will take care to make sure its has no sharp edges and will remove the engine and box before finishing it to make sure I have clearances. I am then going to weld all the holes no matter how small in the firewall as if I have fire I don't want anything getting at me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted December 31, 2014 Author Share Posted December 31, 2014 Shit load of welding and re-welding as I was trying to find the best setting on the MIG for the thin Starlet metal as it only has 4 settings and I needed one between the lowest and the next setting which any more than a second would blow a hole no matter how much I adjusted the wire. Anyway I am getting close now! I have strengthened the cross member again and seam welded as much as possible Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted January 3, 2015 Author Share Posted January 3, 2015 Well I have had a busy couple of days but had some problems which i came across that needed to figured out so a bit slower than I had hoped. I pulled the engine and box out to tidy up the engine bay and weld the chassis to the body at the weak points, welded the engine mounts in covered some holes and painted. I also removed all the crap from the floor and started on the seat and found the first problem an possibly he reason why the steering wheel was on by a finger tight nut. The better of the 2 seats was almost impossible to get my legs past the steering wheel. I then modified the steering wheel mount to give more clearance but not really enough so I had to overhaul the seat adjuster on the other seat then fitted itwhich made it easier but not what I wanted. I then set the other seat up to fit which took a bit of welding and at the moment I have it half done, I am pleased I did this as the seat wasn't well mounted. Painted and the corner welded then i repainted it later Checking how to make the exhaust work for me May need to use a metal u bend The seat is almost and has lower sides to make it easier to get in and out and I raised the steering wheel about 40cm Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted January 14, 2015 Author Share Posted January 14, 2015 Well I have the engine and gearbox mounted in the car, I used a copper u for the rear hoses. I have a quick release steering wheel now as well. I bought a small surge tank and I have a pickup pump and an inline high pressure pump already, just need some high pressure hose. and bolt it all together with a filter. This will take a bit of time and I will drop the tank out to make sure it's clean. The driveshaft will be dropped into Circle Track tomorrow I hope. The radiator is a later model Corolla and fits snug, I plan on reversing a couple of fans and front mount them. I also checked the rear springs and they have been cut so low that when i jacked the car up I could pull them out, I think I make have to talk to my mate as to what I need before I go racing. I made an exhaust flange from the rotary flange cut it in half, shaped it and welded it up banged a couple of holes in it and then made a shorter 2-into-1 single 2.5", I still need to put the o2 sensor mount in it. Plenty of other items to do as well but I ran out of Co2 for the MIG and the bottle needed to be tested so this has slowed me down a bit Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted January 19, 2015 Author Share Posted January 19, 2015 Couple of setbacks but getting closer now. Hot days slowing me down as the garage is damn hot on some of those 30+ days. I cut the old 12a manifold in 2 which had the exact size exhaust I needed shaped and welded it and made sure its flush then 2 into 1, it may not be the prettiest but it works. Just need to add the o2 sensor. Straight pipe from the bend up to the manifold and to make room it made sense to cut through the rear foot well which will never be used again. This has a tunnel over the exhaust now. Picked up a complete manual loom with ODB II so I can check for errors etc. Radiator is in, reverse mounted a fan, just need hoses Checking and started labeling the obvious parts of the loom Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted January 27, 2015 Author Share Posted January 27, 2015 Been a bit slow lately as injured my elbow and can hardly use my left arm finished putting the radiator in and made some hoses up and connected it all but found a small problem with the throttle body which has water running into it. I thought the hose underneath was a vacuum as the neck was broken when i bought the engine but it was actually for water and is part a valve or something?? I was hoping I don't need it but guessing It may cause some indifferent tune affect? Anyway I have decided on a total overkill and I am shopping for a Hilux diff to go with the Hilux LSD I have, I have asked a mate who has mates with bits and pieces and hopefully they will come up with something. Once I have that then I can work out the measurements I need make a fully adjustable rear. This will possibly extend the build and push the budget but I will try and build everything I can. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted March 3, 2015 Author Share Posted March 3, 2015 Well power is up to the computer, fuel pumps, injectors and coils but when turning it over wouldn't fire. A bit unsure and likely nee some help from someone who has been here before me. Any local wanting to help I will pass them a carton of their choice or any advice on what could be stopping it would be great. Remaining unknowns, O2 sensor not hooked up as unsure which goes where, does the gearbox need anything as it was already connected vacuum ? g Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted March 6, 2015 Author Share Posted March 6, 2015 Oh Yea....... IT'S ALIVE!! Started and running but when I connect the MAF it runs a bit shit and laggy, maybe its a 6 cylinder one? Might have to try and find a 4 cylinder one to try. I still have a bit of work like connect dials and dash, OBD2 to check errors. Bleed brakes and clutch, hook up accelerator, put the seat in, Fuel regulator and pump sort of works ok. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 It runs as it should tonight thanks to Pe-arce as he came up trumps for the missing pieces. I will do some tests as not sure what piece was wrong but the new pipe and MAF works a treat and it revs out now. Next: Alternator wired in Wire in OBD2 - Stripped out of the internal loom Rewire everything into the car as currently running wires out the door to the ECU Diff replacement + Driveshaft Tidy up everything. Then build a trailer. 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EFI_LC Posted March 14, 2015 Author Share Posted March 14, 2015 Getting close now although my test today in the driveway shows the diff is a problem. It is twisting severely when I put power down and it pushes the front up so high it hits the underside of the tunnel. I will be pulling the arms off and replacing them. My Mate Alan, I can't say enough about this guy, he has never wired up anything like this and he has come through. We hope to have it fully wired and running on the alternator by next weekend. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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