flyingbrick Posted February 6, 2015 Author Share Posted February 6, 2015 Got itchy arms trimming this heaps. Thanks Neal for sorting this out for me! Completely unsure which direction to head now. It fits far better than expected but still needs a ton of work (as well as a donor front steel bit to cut up) It does have some starved horse syndrome happening but pretty minimal considering how many thousands must have been pulled from this mold (rapidly, to keep up with demand) It won't ever look good in glass paint because its glass... But I'm not sure how much I want glossy paint on the whole car? 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 9, 2015 Author Share Posted February 9, 2015 Brand new reproduction mustang tank. Nothing could have fit better or been better value! 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 12, 2015 Author Share Posted February 12, 2015 I feel like I have been making good progress on this recently. Lunchtimes have been spent drilling, machining and welding various things. So this arrived.. Very impressed with the quality considering the price! I committed to the trans am front and picked up some spotweld drill bits to remove excess metal (in a way that can be replaced if desired) I did some crummy aluminum welding And then covered it with this (top mount/cover...I still need stainless fasteners the right length) Then I put all my years of watching YouTube metal spinning videos to use and beaded some aluminum tube (seriously happy with how it came out) I need to grab fasteners, hose clamps and can then move onto the heater lines(I may block these off for now) Oh and this is the plastic that will be blanking various holes on my gauge surround. Its 3mm ABS and should bond permanently to the surround with just acetone between mating surfaces. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 13, 2015 Author Share Posted February 13, 2015 Fuel tank frame Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 15, 2015 Author Share Posted February 15, 2015 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 Had to show this because I think its just so cool! Only had a few minutes free during lunch today so fitted a nice switch into my DIY shift knob in preparation for linelock action. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 17, 2015 Author Share Posted February 17, 2015 Spot drilled the rest of those wing things off, ground down the Dag's, sprayed in zinc black....good enough for this rough cunt. Drilled and tapped some holes and rivnutted some other holes to mount the trans cooler. The engine bay suddenly looks bare without that bundled up. Had another test fit. The transam nose will fit swell with some work. Big air filter no longer fits, hits the HEI plug..oops. Will have to spin the dizzy and swap leads round. Can't see any reason why not but I AM a novice at this (and fluked initial setup by following an instructable hahaha) Also, tested the thermostat, found my front BMW lighting loom (for the round lights, can't believe I found it, bonus) and 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 19, 2015 Author Share Posted February 19, 2015 Ready for tank alterations. Pulled off my good tail lenses and gave it a good polish.. Like new. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 20, 2015 Author Share Posted February 20, 2015 So I drilled and tapped 13 m6 holes in that frame to hold the tank down. Extreme but that's how many the tank had so why not. Also started modifying the gauge surround. I was told acetone would melt the shit together but you must need absolutely perfect mating surfaces for that to work as I had zero bonding action. Resorted to using digital soldering iron with large flat tip and careful temperature selection and am getting good results. I find its best to drag the tip along 5mm backward then push it forward to roll up a bead of mixed melted plastic, then repeat to push next roll up next to the last etc etc.. That's the only way iv found of getting any decent penetration kinda. Should come up very good with a file and a little filler..because the plastics securely bonded together there should be no cracking or issues. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 22, 2015 Author Share Posted February 22, 2015 This is coming along nicer and easier than expected. I plastic welded all outside corners entirely but only put big tacks onto all inside corners..too hard and slow without a hot air plastic welder and proper filler rod to get it done entirely. I then mixed up a pot of resin and used it to fill any low spots and crevases I'd missed with hot plastic. I'm relying on my spot welds and large seamed lower edges to hold the platic completely rigid as I'm not entirely sure if the resin will bond entirely with the ABS plastic. Its a rough cut edge so should be OK but I guess I'll find out. Worst case I'll cut resin out and give it to a professional plastic welder to finish (hot air plastic welders are expensive as hell) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 Fuel tank sump ready for outlet bungholes and trimming. Made it out of stainless because bling. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 A few minutes trimming.. There's many kits to do this to these tanks but if you are capable of welding sump to tank then you are capable of making the sump itself so pretty pointless. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 23, 2015 Author Share Posted February 23, 2015 Big hole is fuel in. Small holes are to let air out( remember tanks currently upside down) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 25, 2015 Author Share Posted February 25, 2015 NDT crack testing 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted February 27, 2015 Author Share Posted February 27, 2015 Passed the crack testing. It definitely isn't great looking up close; there's no stackofdimes here...but its solid. This week has been pretty testing. People have been pushing me to my absolute limit and so not much time to do homers.. But got the sockets made and welded into place today... And these bits arrived. 1/2" UNC x 4 and 1/2" high tensile bolts for rear spring eyes and some door clips that were too cheap to pass up. SO NOW I CAN GET HER ROLLING AGAIN YAAAAAY Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 No free time to weld at work so tried finishing the wiring. Fail because on sat ago after work I just couldn't find pliers for non insulated crimps..so frustrating. Got horns, too bad after wiring them in and testing they sound like shit. Cut up my spare front piece and fitted to car. I will cut the glass nose piece down and bond it to this steel lip. I really need to buy some clico clips. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted March 8, 2015 Author Share Posted March 8, 2015 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted March 9, 2015 Author Share Posted March 9, 2015 Need bigger holesaw. -trex 3 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted March 15, 2015 Author Share Posted March 15, 2015 I am fair buzzing about this weekends efforts. I must have spent ten hours in the shed ticking wiring jobs off the list. There were a few confused moments when fuse holders were corroded and.making no contact etc but all sorted. Thanks for any help you guys gave!! So, my relays up front are now connected to cabin loom and click away happily. Shorting the horn contact thing to the column makes the horn go My wipers now are wired in There is now a microswitch on the shifter that turns the reverse lamps on. The alternator is wired (and hopefully it will work OK with LED. I have noticed some current is being drawn by the alternator down the main charge line? New indicator switch is installed So so so so so much time spent with multimeter and test lamp Ignition wired up for good, power feeds done etc. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flyingbrick Posted March 27, 2015 Author Share Posted March 27, 2015 I was short one switch(edit) for ignition lockout One switch from b&m was 70 bucks in nz. Surfed trademe looking at second hand appliance switch bundles and found one with two switches that looked identical. AND THEY ARE RED. Ten bucks later, boom. Threeonthetree suggested tesa fabric loom tape. This stuff is very strong, very pliable, very nice to use and BEST OF ALL won't creep or ooze adhesive like electrical tape (that shits the devil). OEM euro stuff I hear. Don't mock my ugly mig weld, its fit for purpose! (Will be hidden lol) I bought an actual arcade button for my horn, multiple mini tamiya connectors off aliexpress (for a quarter trademe price) and, a maxima gauge cluster for its plastic warning lamp lenses (1 dollar off TM!) So excite about that stuff. It does appear that my alternator is faulty. RAGE as is drawing .2amp down the sense line at all times. Its all wired correctly (pretty simple) and every expert spoken to has said it need attention..doh. Next I need to machine an insulating ring for my boss kits horn contact ring, need mo time not working away from the shop. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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