kicker Posted January 5, 2012 Author Share Posted January 5, 2012 i have to ask, do you get an x if you die? I wouldn't be surprised if that was actually the case. Had a play with some replacement bars as the current ones are mahoosively wide. Still need to finish them off and weld it up but should do the trick Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 my suggestion on those bars, is to have the hand grips near vertical (and parallel with the frame) This will not only be more aerodynamic, but will aid with the vibrations making your hands fall off (why those guys got big X's) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CaMpylobacter Posted January 5, 2012 Share Posted January 5, 2012 sort out drive asep plz. i want to see this shit rollin Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 Lots of work being done by rival factions so better get going on this. I revised my brake design, silly man why you have back brake when you need front brake for burnouts Rear hub as front hub, just going to run a chain/cable combo to a brake lever Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted February 17, 2012 Author Share Posted February 17, 2012 Dug out my spare flywheel today, it's a sweet brass one I put it on but it wouldn't start, comparing it with the original showed it had a different timing mark so I copied the old one onto it, still wouldn't start, no spark so gapped the points and bam it runs again. If anyone needs to know Timing: With piston at TDC install the flywheel lining up the arrow on it with the arrow on the stator plate Points: Through the flywheel cutouts, slide the points cap retaining arm to the side and remove the brass cover. Adjust as per normal, gap is 12-15 thou Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted February 29, 2012 Share Posted February 29, 2012 looks sweet tell me more of this chain brake setup Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BlownCorona Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 i uploaded it as a pretty big image so you can see the detail and work it out. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 easier to explain, rear bmx coaster brake as front brake activated by cable over chain as opposed to crank(back pedalling) over chain. looks cool i like it needs to have heaps of gears or cvt for max top end Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tortron Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 that is a sweet idea Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 Yip, as above I took a video of a mock up but forgot to post it. It needs a bit more leverage so I have a different lever on it now and also have an adjustment mechanism (which is just an old sturmey hub cable adjuster) to go on JYlBC5KRju0 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ned Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 So are they just rear coaster brakes or is it a special one made for front wheel braking etc? So they have a sprag clutch in them so you can actually still rotate the wheel? and are they loud as fuck/make a clicking noise while rotating normally? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
KKtrips Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 Its just a standard coaster hub.. Yeah they will coast fine and you're not going to hear the ratchet and pawl of the front hub over the engine.. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted March 4, 2012 Author Share Posted March 4, 2012 wot e sed^ Just a normal rear coaster brake, had to spread the forks a bit to get the wider hub in. Wheel can still rotate, no clicky clicky though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jase Posted March 4, 2012 Share Posted March 4, 2012 a hefty return spring may be a good idea as coasters are mean for lock up skids, and skids up front would be scary to say the least. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted March 5, 2012 Author Share Posted March 5, 2012 Yeah, I got a decent one on there, was a spring off a motorcycle rear brake lever. Hopefully will have drive train progress next week Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Steelies Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 thats cool kicker, love the chain-to-lever styles. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris.QCR Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 Sweet as kiwi engineering there dude! Please tell me your going to nats and this is coming with you! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rot808 Posted March 5, 2012 Share Posted March 5, 2012 i swooned quite badly over that brake setup just then fyi Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted March 6, 2012 Author Share Posted March 6, 2012 I won't be able to make it to Nats unfortunately, missus booked a holiday on the same dates, gutted. I might redesign the front brake as I don't know how effective it will be with the setup in the video, was thinking of turning it into a handbrake setup with a lever that locks it on (for skids) and just using a foot operated rear brake (made from the old villiers kick start pedal with a chain running to the rear coaster brake hub) for slowing duties Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kicker Posted March 13, 2012 Author Share Posted March 13, 2012 Progress (slow that is) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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