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BlownCoronas 1971 Toyota Corona


BlownCorona

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Yeah speaking to ashkellybarr who I'll hopefully be grabbing the blower from, the best way forward is efi and a big single throttle before the blower.

I've seen quite a few builds including one on here that used a J pipe onto the factory carb manifold to attach the charge pipe. And while this won't be the best flowing system, it would mean less headaches from the dumb half bolt manifolds which has plagued me with issues.

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  • 2 months later...

Overheating is usually either really obvious what's wrong or a total nightmare ! I use an digital infrared thermometer to confirm whether it is actually overheating or a guage issue ? Then if it is overheating you can find if there is a localized hot or cool spot to give you a clue whats up . some interesting things to find include internally bypassing radiators , water pumps with wrong impeller trying to pump the wrong way and more of a new car issue air locks , good luck dude , hope it's easier to fix than it is to find ......

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im pretty 100% certain its overheating as it will end up getting spark break up/ possible detonation and it goes away once its cooled off. 

the engine is coming apart anyway so ill make sure theres no damage due to that but there shouldn't be as its only ever just touched on it before being shut off. 

 

that said, i do have access to an infrared thermo so ill give that a go. i also have access to a coolant system pressure tester to ill check theres no leaking. 

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just looking at your ignition setup, whats the ignition module mounted on? these get hot and over heat if not mounted on a heat sink with a bit of heat paste in between etc, and cause the issues youre describing. It could be when the ignition module cools back down it restarts fine, fire it up and see if it gets hot and youre problems start when it does.

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Mounted on two bits of 3mm flat bar. I'll check it out, but as far as I know it doesn't warm up much more than room temp.

Spark break up is predictable at around 250f on the gauge. Which may or may not be true temp, but it's certainly very hot at this point. Not that I intentionally run it up that high

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  • 4 weeks later...

I put a carbed 18RG in my RT84 a few years ago and just bolted the master cylinder straight to the firewall and ran hard lines to the LHS where I have an aliexpress vh44 booster. Works great. Think I had to fix a washer or something on the inside of the firewall to keep the pushrod located into the master cylinder. Easily done and beats unboosted brakes.

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  • 1 month later...

Re chain tensioner...  just checking that you know it is adjustable?  rattle upon startup can often be cured with a tighten.  5kg of force on the spring loaded piston in the end of it should move it 0.5mm.  (after rotating the crank clockwise to put the chain slack on the tensioner side).   also the tensioner are cast iron and break easy so no tapping or leaning on it.

Do you has 18rg workshop manual?

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  • 3 months later...

thanks chris!

ive got a really nice ramair filter here that im hoping to use, but im really not sure if its going to fit. the hood may not even fit without some spacers under the rear! 

need to shave off and re plumb all that stuff off the top of the blower to find out. 

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  • 1 month later...

Looking great man!

You have any plans for intercooling? 

I like how you have your TB at the right end. People always do it the wrong way around which creates problems. 

Sc12 yeah?

What size is the engine? (I don't understand Toyota engine codes)

What ratio are you spinning the barometric compensator at?

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No plans for an intercooler if I can get away with it, it'll be an absolute nightmare trying to get pipes out the front. Only going to be running around 5-6 psi so shouldn't have any issue. 

And yes many conversations with ashkellybarr about the right way to set the tb up etc. 

I have an sr20de water pump pulley on the crank with is a bought 1-1 ratio, this will probably result in too much boost, but I had it on hand, and didn't want to go to the trouble of sourcing a smaller pulley and finding out that in the real world it only made 3psi and the sr20 pulley was the one all along! 

Engine Is 2000cc efi cross flow, 8v big port head. Compression ratio I can't confirm but I believe between 8.75 and 9.25ish 

 

Also note that the passenger is going to get a face full of blower noise due to tb and air filter placement! 

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