yoeddynz Posted December 6, 2011 Share Posted December 6, 2011 Yeah get the flares right. They only need to be slightly out and will leak. Rebuild your master cylinder too while your at it. I reckon the original colour looks sweet. And period. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivaspeed Posted December 10, 2011 Share Posted December 10, 2011 Great progress. It's looking good. The photo of the gearstick/handbrake closeness reminded me of mine - I cut the length of the handbrake down - from the 4 ribs on the rubber bit to 3. Just have to open it up and pull the actuating rod out and shorten by same length. Pretty quick fix if you've got a mig at home. Although how often does the handbrake need to be applied when you're in 2nd or 4th? Are you going to run a standard dizzy or a -GZE CAS and coil pack? Look pretty tight for a full dizzy near the turbo (or could just be angle of the pic). Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted December 11, 2011 Author Share Posted December 11, 2011 VIVA update..... yeh, the handbrake is not an issue, vvaspd as you say its not going to be used when in gear. But its close enough. I extended the plate at the top a bit more and remounted back about 30 mils it sits over towards the driver slightly, so a blind man running for his life wouldnt notice it... The turbo is pretty close to the dizzy, i did mount the turbo in an effort to have enuff space for the original one so im gun keep this one on there till i can get a standalone ecu (DREEAAAMING) will try to have a heat sheild in efforts to rid the melt factor. Could go as far as to wrap it if things dont work out. Water system is on the way, most piping done, just need to sort out a rubber thing for the thermostat to sit in the housing properly, and a z pipe for the heater hose. Partially finished brakes, new stuff in there so i effen hope it dont leak this time.... jeeze, had a go at making an accellorator cable, cut it down 3 times thinking how short can this thing get? to about half a metre just need to fine tune the amount it requires for max throttle. Various sensors are on the engine now so once thats all good start to run some wires i guess... eeek! Pics to come... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted January 9, 2012 Author Share Posted January 9, 2012 so the bad weather helped me out some with the viva... Water system, complete even heater connected. couldnt find the original heater tap so just got one of a soobie at pickys. if its hot il have to pop the bonnet and turn on or off which ever its spose to be, no biggie. Brakes... ah well i have put it back together and bled it. 2 leaks. master cylinder outlet to front right. prob the tube nut is too far gone. ah well im leaving that for now and the bloody back wheel cylinder one slightly. Its new, but i think it got too fingered when I used the old tube nut in there. Electrical is under way. Battery in boot, have mounted a kill switch 100amp jobby to cut the main power lead to the front. I went mental because the one i bought didnt work, and i thought na, its new itl be good, turns out it was a dud. Thats supercheap for ya. Good people were happy to exchange for a new one and that got power to the front. Bought some relays to switch things on, hooked up one which acts as the main efi/ign control. Have got a push button start so will have to jimmy some immobilisation somewhere. Battery lead up front is connected to a fuse box off a toyota corolla, with 80amp and 30 amp fuses, so I will run everything thru the 30amp fuse, accesories wise anyway. Got a whole loom from an ae82 and unspliced it so plenty of cables to run wires to various places. Soldering iron and shrink tube to use also, gone are my days of twist'n'tape. Sensors are installed and wires ready to connect. have got the 55mm hole cut thru the firewall for the rubber grommet and now is ready for the wires to go from passenger floor (ecu location) thru to engine bay. Wiring is always deemed as a hard basket job, so i have viva wiring manual, corolla wiring manual, will use bits of both. Internet has great simple loom/pinouts required too so guess work is gone. Not far to try to crank the beast, now. Yeah boi!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 Something quite fun and satisfying about doing wiring. Especially if you go right back to bulkhead and re-do it all. Are your wings bolted on? If so were they always like that? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted January 16, 2012 Author Share Posted January 16, 2012 Ah wings? you mean the front guards? they were spot welded on and hadnt been off for a while 30 years. had to drill them out, chizel etc to get them off. Then used self tapper bolts to put back in place, then thought nah tidy up to 6mm bolts/nuts solid as now. Around the doors area just had to use self tapper ones as no where to get bolts in there. Could have welded back on but thought better of it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted January 16, 2012 Share Posted January 16, 2012 Yeah wings/guards Good idea making them bolt on as easy to remove in future if needed. I think Vivas were the last vauxhalls to have welded on wings Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted January 22, 2012 Author Share Posted January 22, 2012 So thanks to one of the old school members "ms53_wagon" i aquired a new dizzy and have completed the wiring side of things. Spark it does now, so i wired up the fuel pumps and got fuel to the front, surge tank system works rather well. Lift pump sounds like a jackhammer tho, but its working. It coffed and splattered a bit and found out the dizzy was in the wrong position. TDC and then aligned to no.1 on the rotor. Nothing. Took plugs out to find that only no.1 is wet. So no gas gettin from fuel rail to inlet. List of things to look at... TPS resistances, or replace TPS. Injector wiring vs the low imp. injectors, how they are supposed to be wired in. (I believe its suppose to be all 4 connect to #10 and #20) on the early models ECU faulty not giving pulse for INJ's Ignitor not giving pulse to ECU 3 blocked injectors All of the above... But i am super stoked that i have spark!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted January 26, 2012 Share Posted January 26, 2012 Once its started and running fine whats next on the list? How close will it be to getting cert'd? Will this car be at the nats? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted January 26, 2012 Author Share Posted January 26, 2012 Exhaust from the gearbox back, INTERIOR, Seatbelts, make 2 brackets for seats, 2 rear tyres, speedo cable, fix brake problem, fit headlights, indicators, brake lights. Quite possibly paint it properly. Got told need a 6mm thick driveshaft loop according to new cert specs. My flimsy 2mill stainless one is out the door i guess. IN short if the NATS are in 5 years then maybe quite possibly, probly not, will try/fail to get there. But i saw a HB the other day, white one, bedford engine twin carb'd, was on trademe for 5 grand a while back, he came next door pickin someone up for the kumeu car show so i got in his face and asked him about it, he had a geeze a mine. The 2.3 sounds mint and throaty with the twins on it, but would be like an old slug over 4 grand and a bit heavy on the gas to get there. Was cool tho. Got me all motivated again. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted February 14, 2012 Author Share Posted February 14, 2012 Small update: Obtained a correct tps from crispy86 cheers for that. Ran my injectors, but only 1 was wet. Changed injectors over to a different lot off a v6 vr4 blue ones Got 2 out of 4 running so they obviously the problem. dirty/blocked. Took some other injectors out of a SOCH v3000 sigma, rated at 220cc to a place to jet ultra sonically cleaned and a set of new rubber seals, etc. Cost me 190 bux but i figure it'l only need to be done once. Yet to fit them, but will be doing that tonight. Will re-check other things as well, wiring. Etc. Heres hoping it'l go!!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted February 15, 2012 Share Posted February 15, 2012 You sure it was an HB? I remember a HC 2 door for sale on trade me for ages with 2.3 and twin side drafts etc. Yeah them engines well thirsty and not smooth revvers- but so torquey. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted February 15, 2012 Author Share Posted February 15, 2012 Yeah maybe was the 2 door hc, but yeh it was white with the black strip on the bonnet. def the same one. I got fuel now and nice spark but i have no go, im waiting for a timing light to be sure my things are in order. Its gotta be something simple now. Doesnt help when batt goes flat cos its been sat for ages. Will try to suss a better one. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted February 20, 2012 Author Share Posted February 20, 2012 Not going yet but have way too much fuel so those injectors are not going to work. I swapped back the Fuel pressure regulator to the stock one, the one i had just happened to fit but is not the right one. Found out my hasty wiring also had me putting the wires in wrong to the TPS plug and the earth plug had 5 v outta it major fail. The IDL plug had popped itself out of the main plug going into the ecu so that would have made it diff reading too for the idle values. Ive always been told a project is easy for the 1st 90 % the last 10% is the tricky shit. So next i'l get some standard injectors and then if that dont work, try another map sensor . Hay does anyone have a Starlet Turbo MAP off a 4efte? A lot of fuck ups but hopefully someone reads this and gets something out of it. The fun continues. Yay for me. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted February 22, 2012 Author Share Posted February 22, 2012 ok so i just found out the tps could be way out of range, and so quite possibly this will need to be re-fidgeted with. Will see how my new injectors behave if i just tinker with that for now. Feeler guage and multi meter and lots of patience required for this one. And a pic of the beast for historic value... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
yoeddynz Posted February 23, 2012 Share Posted February 23, 2012 just like mine only lighter... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
vivaspeed Posted February 24, 2012 Share Posted February 24, 2012 Yeah maybe was the 2 door hc, but yeh it was white with the black strip on the bonnet. def the same one. That was owned (may still be owned) by a guy Murray - top bloke. The 2.3 in it originated from me about 5 years ago when I wanted cash to buy a house - has got Chev 307 pistons, high comp, angry cam, rare CF electronic ignition and started life on injection but he converted back to carbs. Loads of torque from zero RPM. Had a W50 Toyota box behind it. The white 2 door wasn't my car originally, but was very tempted to buy it from him for the engine and general awesomeness. I have a rule though against buying back stuff I've previously sold Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted March 1, 2012 Author Share Posted March 1, 2012 yeh, its a cool car allright. so wow i found out what was up with my engine, but i havent started it yet. But was simple as like i said it would be. Timing marks all lined up when i put the car together, but, these cam sprockets have two possible ways to go in. and it wasnt until I pulled of the rocker covers to see what valves were doing when piston was up or down ment that i thought it was set right..... wrong as... so i noticed inlet valves opening when piston was going up and i was like wtf na thats wrong then i took the bible out and looked at it and looked at it and then it jumped out at me. Inlet in wrong spot, heres how... The knock pin on inlet side was 180 out so i was like duh....So i had to reset the timing belt. No compression on the stroke it needed. haha! Will give it a whirl tonight but im super confident this will be it. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
77magnum13hundy Posted March 2, 2012 Author Share Posted March 2, 2012 Well it spluttered a bit into life so its sort of going, not holding idle so will sort out where the timing is at and go from there, could be possibly the fuel delivery issue between map and tps to ecu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kpr Posted March 2, 2012 Share Posted March 2, 2012 yeh easyest way to get the cams correct. is cylinder 1 cam lobs point away from each other. slam cam wheels on and line marks up. what ecu are you running? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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