sheepers Posted July 7, 2012 Author Share Posted July 7, 2012 colour. no clear yet because it got to cold. will clear it tomorrow. sheepers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted July 8, 2012 Author Share Posted July 8, 2012 many thanks to spencer because without his advice i probably would have fucked this up. i am the worst car painter in the galaxy. I'm not exaggerating, i am that bad. but today i did alright. i blocked back the colour with 800 and put some more colour on, it turned out that i wasn't getting it wet enough yesterday so today i laid it on more heavily and its made a huge difference. there is a run in the clear but i couldn't care less, it will come out with some cutting when the paint is hard. but the rest of it looks super excellent and I'm happy as a pig in poo. now its time to do some re-assembly and then start doing the airbags. excite!!! sheepers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted July 11, 2012 Author Share Posted July 11, 2012 some things have been attached. gives a better idea of the colour with the contrast of colours. heater box. panels acid dipped and stripped, radiator recored, new seals. sheepers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted July 11, 2012 Author Share Posted July 11, 2012 also this, i got the manifold back from HPC yesterday and hopefully ill get the carbs back today or tomorrow and i can assemble it all. should be sweet. sheepers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted July 13, 2012 Author Share Posted July 13, 2012 today i got crabs, the following is a whole bunch of photos of my crabs. so, for more that the cost of an entire 1UZ i now have a fully reconditioned twin carb manifold for the 2M. the air cleaner is powder coated and the manifold is HPC'd. carbs were rebuild by carburetor specialists in new market. i estimate the horsepower to be up in the teens now. sheepers 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted August 7, 2012 Author Share Posted August 7, 2012 I’ve been having some fun with front suspension lately. I bought an MS85 parts car to get the uprights that will take the bigger, and available, ball joints. the car came with a few bonus parts that will come in handy, like a good power steering box and a genuine 140,000K 4M. I started piecing together the steering components I’m going to use and nothing made sense. I had the complete set of linkages from my first MS51 and the parts I took out of the MS85. I couldn’t figure out why everyone told me that the inner tie rods were different, because everything I had interchanged between both models. it took me a while to figure out that someone had already swapped the steering in my first MS51 for MS65 parts. when I got the steering setup from my current MS51 out of the junk pile (every joint was fucked beyond recognition so I just binned the lot) it all made sense. so, MS65 is 30mm total wider than MS51. if I use the MS65 parts (which I have all good inner and outer tie rods for) ill have some bump steer issues. I don’t know how much, I’ll have to work it out, but it’s less than ideal. in other news, for brakes I’ll be using DBA272 rotors (redrilled to bolt to the back of the crown hub) and LN106 Hilux callipers. this combination fits behind 0 offset 15" wheels and some 14's. it’s the same as what’s on my RA23 and they work very well so that will be prefect. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted August 10, 2012 Author Share Posted August 10, 2012 ive been trying to figure out how to fix/upgrade the heater tap in the 51 (mine was fucked, it leaked and it didn't shut off the water flow when it was supposed to and i reckon yours is the same). all the readily available vacuum operated taps work backwards to the toyota one (open with no vacuum whereas toyota is closed with no vacuum). i finally bit the bullet and bought a falcon (EA,EB lots the same) tap with a view to cutting the bracket and moving the vacuum solenoid to the other side of the tap lever. i was just about to attack it with the hacksaw when i decided to take one last look at the switch gear that mounts in the dash. then it hit me, something Rod said about re-labeling the lever, crossing out where it says hot and writing cold, made me look again at the vacuum switch. the answer was so obvious i cant believe its taken me so long to figure it out. take the vacuum switch off the slider and mount it upside down. then it will work the new tap perfectly. what the hell am i talking about? some pictures will help here, this is a stock MS5* heater tap, this is a falcon tap, but all the readily available taps are the same (vacuum = closed) so, what to do. first cut the cable peg down a bit like this , then do a bit of trial and stuffing about to find where the tap works when its around the other way and it will look a bit like this, you will more than likely have to elongate the slider slot a bit like this photo tries to show, then you can use an easily available tap like this and bobs your fathers brother. time to do? drill two holes and grind out the slot, about 11 minutes. super happy with this. imma post this in my build thread too so you might have some hope of finding this information if you need it in the future. (a very happy) sheepers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted August 25, 2012 Author Share Posted August 25, 2012 my airbag shit arrived. the tank is away getting powder coated but this is the rest of the bits. also i have new suspension parts for the front end. all the parts, they are new. many other things are happening but ill just take some pictures of the stuff when its all finished. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 that is all. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted August 29, 2012 Author Share Posted August 29, 2012 i took the cap off number 6 on the 2M. found something better than i was hoping for. the crank looks good and the shell looks newish, its an ACL one and (please chime in here if you know different) ive never seen a stock toyota motor with ACL bearings in it. so its had a rebuild at some point. my uncle (who was a motor mechanic all his life and built championship winning race cars on the side) once told me that "if you can feel it with your nail, then is bigger than 0.20mm" he was talking about scores in the crank or big ends. the crank has a mark that i can just feel but fuck it. im pretty happy to find a good aftermarket bearing in the motor. i just going to give the motor a good clean internally and run it. oh, and the bolt that holds the oil pump to the bottom of the block (yes, the ONE bolt) is hanging out by 3 threads, so im pretty glad i can fix that while im in there. the other thing that happened tonight is ive figures out the mounting for the front bags. i cut the chassis and made room for the bag and its all good. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted September 12, 2012 Author Share Posted September 12, 2012 front shocks relocated. still have to mod the sway bar bracket a bit at the bottom but its all good to go. now to mount the bags and the front suspension is finished. sheepers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted September 23, 2012 Author Share Posted September 23, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted September 23, 2012 Author Share Posted September 23, 2012 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted September 27, 2012 Author Share Posted September 27, 2012 front is finished. sway bar mounted and the height sensors are done as well. the eagle eyed among you may also spot the the motor is back in. now its time to start getting the inner guards to fit and get the rest of the engine bay painted so i can re-assemble the front and finish the wiring. oh and also start thinking about the rear setup. sheepers. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted October 2, 2012 Author Share Posted October 2, 2012 my wheels arrived today. 15x7s', 15x8's and 15x10's. ill probably run the 7's and 8's daily and save the 10's for special occasions. the 10's are going to require a very slight massaging of the guard to fit but i kind of knew that. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted October 3, 2012 Author Share Posted October 3, 2012 some mock ups. 15x8's front and back. 15x10 sitting on the jack. guard not lipped yet and some things on the inside have to move. . 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted October 16, 2012 Author Share Posted October 16, 2012 front suspension has all been inspected, crack tested and OK'ed. its painted and re-assembled for the last time on the car. ive done the left flare and im doing the right flare now but this is how it will sit. 15x7 on the front but the 15x8's will fit no worries and 15 x 10's on the back. im going to notch the chassis about 30mm at the back to get it this low but thats no biggie. im very happy with how its looking. . sheepers. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted October 28, 2012 Author Share Posted October 28, 2012 so. the back end. ive cut the diff down to fit the 15x10's in the arch. i took 30mm out of each side. i still need to shorten the axels but ill do that next week. and on to the chassis. C notch to allow the diff to go as high as the wheel will go. i made a new side plate for the rail to give it some more strength and welded it all up. tis sweet. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted November 8, 2012 Author Share Posted November 8, 2012 so i took the body off the chassis. why did i do that? so i can pinch the rails at the back so the wheels fit better and the car will drop as low as it can. also so i can have some body roll. because when the wheel is 1mm away from the rail you don't have much. Richie pointed out that this is a pretty extreme length to go to to make the car fit the wheels. Ive never thought about it like that before but he's right.......... anywho, body off, chassis out. 1 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sheepers Posted November 18, 2012 Author Share Posted November 18, 2012 i cut my chassis in half. twice. but first i thought it would be a good idea if i bolted it to the floor. once id done that i was able to mark out the frame on the floor to give me a reference line to measure from. i pie cut the longitudinal rails so they could flex inwards and i could move the rear part of the rails in but keep them parallel. you can see the cuts in the photo bellow this one. then i cut the chassis cross braces. i wanted to take 15mm out of each side so i did one side at a time so the upper control arm mount would stay in the same place relative to the centerline of the car. oh, i cut the back off because i wanted to keep the body pickup points and the bumper mounts in the same place, ill weld this back on and plate the joint when the chassis is finished. so you should be able to see that the chassis is now narrower, the original position is the line on the floor. 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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