Bean's mk1 cortina

[bean.101]

Discussion page //oldschool.co.nz/index.php?/topic/23185-beans-mk2-cortina-efi-mk1-cortina-efi-turbs/page__hl__%2Bbeans+%2Bcortina

I bought this back in 02 as a bare shell {rolling}. It was originally going to be a pre 65 race car. So it came with the six point cage in it. I fitted my frount struts and double sway bar into it and my engine i had just built. Seats are out of a WRX

1600 xflow,

Ported cylinder head, 41mm inlet valve, 32mm exhaust made from mazda Fe valves

Block was bored to +60 and fitted with 1300 pistons to get comp up to 10.5-1, new cam bearings

Crank ground and balanced, new mains ,big ends and small end bearings

Cam shaft was ground to F12 spec about 440 thou lift can't remember duration

Lightened flywheel,balanced

Twin 40mm delortos

Regraphed distributor

Set of flows and two and a quarter exhaust

Mk3 xflow gearbox with a anglia bellhousing to keep hydraulic clutch, had to modifiy gearbox tunnel slightly

was happy with the power for about 6 months but carbs where going out of tune all the time

work mate and i would play with them every night. We had his wide band O,2 sensor in it,fuel ratio's where all over the show

After driving the mk2 with 122hp i guess this may of made 85hp on a good day if i was lucky.

I built this trailier and sold it for $1800 still feel shafted aboat it, the joys of paying bills. It was very handy as you will see in next photo, as the cortina became a little unrelaiable. My girlfriend [wife now] didn't like going anywhere in the cortina as it use to have a isuse everytime we drove it. but shit was it entertaining.

As you can see dellortos fucked me off. At work there where a few sr18 inlet manifolds lying around so i made a addapter manifold to go from the head to the sr plemem, toyota 4a fuel rail and injectors, sr20 throttle body and i put a toyota 4y electronic distributor internals into a xflow dizzy

Link lem5 ECU, commodore fuel pump. I made the exhaust manifold out of steam pipe, the one that is in this picture is the second one i made, bigger primarys where needed as it had no problem reving to eight grand, as soon as this was fitted engine temps dropped 10degrees. I had also fitted a number of turbos to it. I started with a rb20 turbo was real good for low down but tipped over up top so we thought we would give a Vg30 turbo a go but it was shagged, then we came across a single scroll CT26 turbo off a toyota Land Crusier, perfect it started making boost aboat three and a half grand and didn't run out as it was quite big.

My work mate [allan] use to tune it for me on the road using a wide band O2 sensor. Then we relised it is basically impossiable to tune, having no detonation gear and trying to do the fuel, not being able to load it long enough to fine tune. In saying this we estimate it made close to 200hp this is only a estimate i never managed to get it on a dyno.

These pictures above where just taken before i sold the engine to a guy with a mk2 escort. Can't even remember how much i got for it now, i think around $2500. So i went and bought a CA18det loom and computer.

The engine has been sitting around while i have been working on the mk2 cortina over the last year and ahalf, but lately ive managed to get a small amount of progress done. Engine mounts are half made still need to be trimed up and gusseted.

Now there will be a few people thinking why didn't you put a SR20det in it as you can just aboat get any after market performance part you would ever need and they make good power. But im not real keen on the cylinder heads on them. I think the CAdet has good potential in the cylinder head with some porting. Im also doing a solid lifter conversion as ive got sum GTR cam buckets and retainers i will need to buy some manley stanless steel valves as they will need to be a fair bit longer to make up for the missing lifter. The pysical size size of the CA was the main reason i chose it though, they are a quite compact light engine which is always a plus. My workmate [allan] as mentioned above has built a CA20det that made 400hp on 15psi, so that was enough convincing for me.

[bean.101]

Havn't been up to much lately, but iv been playing around with some variable cam parts from a RB25, Made a new

snout for my orginal cam to accept the variable cam gear. Cut the breather tank off the CA18 tappet cover and

welded a 10mm piece of alloy in. The variable cam oil swicth bolts to this. It will need a external oil feed run it,

That's if it work's.

Also upgraded my link G3 to a link G4 storm thanks to Walter and Phil at NZEFI, They done me a sweet deal, stoked as

will be able run launch control and a few other bits and pieces.

Here's a picture of my block in the surface grinder at work.

Made this for 80bucks but took me a few hours as i made all the flanges

Here's a pic of the block surfaced and honed

Cut the rear half of the floor out as im putting a four bar rear end in it. Big thanks to my old boy for giving me a hand, it's all his idea actually

[bean.101]

This is where the hilux diff will mount

Weve started putting sum new rails in, the pic's are a little hard to make out

[bean.101]

This where the four bars locate

[bean.101]

This is the diff mounted

This is how the tyre will sit in wheel

[bean.101]

Here's some picture's of my cylinder head it's finally finished, ive shimless tappet converted it so no more heavy hydraulic lifters and had the cam's reground at Kelford camtech, the cam's arnt very agressive as im wanting midrange tourqe, this is why iv done the variable cam conversion. Im running PEP stainless valve's the exhaust are a fair bit bigger than the factory by a coulple of mm. The inlets are also bigger. Iv welded between the exhaust valves if you look closerly you will notice a small ridge running between them. This helps low lift flow.

The porting was all done by my work mate Allan, He's a porting artist as you can see, he's been fine tuning his technique for about eight years now. He's managed to get 285cfm at 500thou lift on the inlet and 190cfm at 500thou lift from the exhaust. This is a significant gain on standard and give's SR20 heads a run for there money that Allan's ported.

Here's a picture of a trumpet former i made, il use this to make trumpets for my inlet manifold. It made to trumpet 2inch alloy pipe

[bean.101]

Ive run out of cash to buy part's for my rear end so iv been working on my inlet manifold.

Here's a picture of the plenum i have made. I have pressed out two halfs and welded them together,

Here's a some pic's of the buck, aka former. And the outer mould's these's took quite a few hour's to make. But now it only takes two hours to make a plenum, so that pritty sweet.

If anyone want's to buy one let me know, im probally gona sell them for $200. Just to get back some of my materials money. This is the first one off the press so hopefully they will get better.

[bean.101]

Here's a few pic's of my inlet manifold, and some trumpets ive made up.

I made a another buck up to form this backing plate. Milled the flange out took me a few hours, The hole manifold only owes me $50 bucks in materials, but when i add up all the hours it isn't that cheep.

The plenum is just sitting on there at the moe, i havn't finished welding the runners to the flange yet and i need to weld the inside of the plenum and grind the exterior weld off. Il get some pic's of the backing plate buck up at some stage.

[bean.101]

Here's a pic of my engine with manifold's welded

[bean.101]

These finally arrived today, shit it's like xmas. 15 by 10 for the rear and 15 by 5 for the front

[bean.101]

Got some tyres for the rear of the cortina, 295,50,15. So i had to sit them under the guards to see how they look,

[bean.101]

Here's a few pic's of narrowing my diff. Cheers to Crazy Rich for lending me his diff narrowing kit.

This is my axle redrilled to transit van, to take floating hubs

This is the diff with asssembled, im running falcon disk's and adapters to run 4x108 stud pattern

Wheels on

Had to cut my sump up to get engine lower in the engine bay, so while i was there i fitted a sump extension on the front for more oil capasity and surge protection.

Here's a RB manifold i made for a mate, i cut one of the plenum shells i make in half and added a section to make it longer for a RB

Here's a inside veiw you can see the the addded section

[bean.101]

It's been awhile since i last done anything on the mk1, but with earthquakes constantly happening i thought it would be a good idea to get it rolling again so it can be moved. With anything over a mag 5 i get flooding into my garage.

I also made some brackets for the diagonail link, it's sort of like a panard rod, It runs from one of the bottom front link points to the oppsite rear link, this stop the diff from moving side to side. I have only tacked the mounts onto the diff at this stage. So i will be pulling it out to weld up and fit the tubbs.

Sat the motor back in so i can make intercooler pipes and mount the intercooler, mount radiator and finish inlet manifold.

This is how it's sitting at the moement, i will be fitting coilovers in the front at some stage to lower it 50mm or so.

[bean.101]

Got my tubs the other day, looking forward to getting some time to fit them.

Also made a inlet manifold for a vvl sr20 that we are building for a marathon boat at work, should be interesting as i don't think anyone else in NZ is using one in a marathon boat.

I have used a 20mm thick plate and machined a radius into it rather than running trumpets. I just used a old drill bit for my radius tool. Ground the shape i wanted into it. I also used it to radius the outside perimeter of the plate.

[bean.101]

Just a couple of pictures showing that ive welded up my brackets finally. Just got to sort my caliper brackets and the diff will be finished.

Got my tubbs trimed, ready to be welded in.

[bean.101]

Ground all the paint off the inside of the rear guards, ready for the tubbs to be welded in

Tubbs tacked in.

[bean.101]

I have managed to get my boot floor in after making a cardboard template and a steel template to get the profile rite.

Then welded it in

[bean.101]

I have be constantly derusting this so have been trying to get it into etch primer asap. I have used the wurth metal conditioner, it's crazy stuff. It makes the metal go a dark blue colour. I forgot to take some photo's. Got some of it in primer though.

Also started on the centre panel between the tubs.

[bean.101]

I test fitted my diff and put it through a range of movement to see if anything binds, And its all sweet.

You can see where i welded tubb in, the paint burnt off the gaurd so i gave it a spray of primer till it goes to my mates panel shop. Will need to muck round with the ride height once get my fuel tank in.

[bean.101]

I have started on my fuel tank, I have decided to use a skyline fuel pump cradle. Will save alot of pissing around and will be alot quieter than a external pump