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Haha for sure. 

Some of the guys in street class have openly said that their cars are too delicate/stiffly sprung/etc to drive them long distance on the road at all.

Trailered to and from events, wof and reg "street class" cars that only ever drive on track haha.

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Have you direction tested the fan? Also worth checking the calibration on the temp sensors. 

 

Ducting may help? its possible that at a certain speed you end up with a stagnant area in the front of the car with the engine bay behind? This is why HUUGE splitters are awesome. 

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1 hour ago, Rhyscar said:

Have you direction tested the fan? Also worth checking the calibration on the temp sensors. 

 

A bit unlikely but I was thinking along the same line, swap the sensors over?

Wouldn't radiation effects be low compared to the flow of oil over the sensor? 

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Haha. 

Yeah fan blows in correct direction, when car is idling you can see it pulling stacks of heat out of the cooler and there's a 10 deg drop across the sensors. 

Instead of cooling system reacing saturation point and fan coming on, car stays at 87deg and fan never comes on.

So it's definitely doing something, but I dont have any oil temp data from beforehand to compare to.

The sensors are both brand new and using same cal table in the ECU, when car is first warming up they both read the same until there starts being a temp difference across the core.

In order to fit my sensors (they are quite deep and bottom out in the AN fittings) I've had to use a 1/8th > 1/4 NPT fitting then a 1/4 > 1/8 NPT back again.

So the tip of sensor is sitting in oil but they're not completely immersed so it's possible they're prone to heat soak from external sources.

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Mount your IR camera in the engine bay and do some laps?

There are only 2 logical options right?
   - Fan is sucking air hotter than the oil temp and is turning it into an oil heater
   - Temp probes are not reading the true oil temp
   - Aliens/magnets

I think putting a temp probe in the incoming air stream is a good idea.

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If my coolant is 94-95 deg and my oil is 110ish then even if the airflow was as hot as coolant it's still not going to heat the oil.
I think it's each sensor having a different heatsoak/thermal latency in the housing they are in. 

(By which I mean... definitely aliens)

One thing I've noticed with the oil cooler fitted though is consistently lower coolant temps, so I'll look through some old logs and see if engine was running any hotter.

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19 hours ago, CorollaGT said:

Man I would be happy as to see 110 degrees oil temp in January at Taupo. I saw 120 degrees (doing 10minute sessions in October) and that's with a 16 row Mocal oil cooler sitting in direct cold airflow and ducting.

I get about the same in my 4AGE. Oil temp consistently (slowly) rises throughout an 8 lap race up to a maximum of about 120C. I run a Mocal cooler also. 

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  • 2 weeks later...

Hello my name is Donnie and I am from the United States. I have been wanting to do a Beams Swap on my Ta63 Carina and if you don't mind can you please give me some info on it? I've always been a Honda guy and this is my first Toyota so it's a whole new world for me. Love your build!

9C340C26-A64C-4D1B-A7FE-37D0AB76E5B1.jpg

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I would say you need the cooler in the direct air path/ducted.

You are pretty hard up it most of the time, and the fan can only pull air across the cooler at say 40kmh? 

At high rpm your oil pump is going to be moving a lot of oil volume x temperature is a lot of energy. How much delta t are you able to get with that fan using warm air?

Are you able to put the cooler in one of the front corners with a thermostat on it?

 

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  • 3 months later...

So many good feels in the last couple of posts :thumbright:

Looking forward to seeing what changes you make to your tune with your new knowledge. I've always found your posts very interesting (if a little over my head at times).

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