Roman Posted January 18, 2016 Author Share Posted January 18, 2016 I've been thinking about trying to make a different exhaust manifold, basically to try and have a longer Straight section on the runners before the first bend. There's heaps of space for it.Currently 1 runner has the bend immediately after the flange and the other is maybe 100mm or more away from the flange.Also, my exhaust ports are larger than standard and I had to die grind the hell out of the manifold to be the right size.But it steps back down to smaller diameter which probably isnt great. So it would be interesting to see what happens going up a pipe size.For interests sake thought I'd draw up some bends in solidworks and see how close I could get to drawing up an equal length exhaust manifold.In my mind it's the same process that you'd do on the bench tacking things together but a lot quicker to readjust angles.Still took ages, would take a zillion times longer IRL! I thought I might end up drawing a model that needed a zillion cuts and welds and bends to work, but it looks as though with the magic of CAD I could probably bang something together from off the shelf mandrel bends, only 3-4 parts per runner to get equal length within a few mm.Based on the test model, wtih some accurate cutting and coming up with a way to index the angles between parts from the model. Only 3 parts per runner would be required:(excuse the wonky angle blue pipe, solidworks crashed before I saved it and CBF redoing it) I reckon it looks feasible enough to spend a bit more time modelling engine bay available space, exact port spacings etc and mock something up.Anyone tried making a manifold from cad drawings before? Might pull the manifold off and measure some stuff in engine bay next time there's a rainy few days. 4 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted February 27, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted February 27, 2016 Hi people, I would like to title this post: The success of rubber and the failure of man. Last trackday at Taupo - I only got a handful of laps and managed a 1:56 which is a new personal best! So I knew the car had some more time in it with a bit more practice.This thursday just gone, I gave it another attempt.With some better lines, I managed to scrub a whole extra second off my time, I was super chuffed with that! One of the differences to last time though, is more negative camber in the front (going from 0, to -2 degrees)So the car was feeling great, the initial turn in was superb.I was feeling suuper confident, doing some kamakaze runs into the sweeper which I overcooked a few times trying to brake too late...And then for the first time at a trackday this happened...Woops! I had a huge lockup, and flat spotted my front left tire down past the tread level. It felt like I was driving on a cube, not ideal.So off I go to the local tire shop."Hi, do you have any 205/50/15?""Sorry dont stock these""wtf? Shit.""Try the place around the corner"Off to the second place, same answer... nothing in stock.... shit shit shit.until..."Oh, I've got some second hand semi slicks though""Go on""Two R888s for $60 fitted""Done deal!!"Frigging amazing! So I get them fitted on the front wheels, then smug face back to the track.After running out of people to smugface to while telling my story, head back out...Very mindful that I'd have a lot more grip up front but still the same out back... So I wound out a bunch of the rear bias.Out on track... Holy shit!Sector times keep tumbling and tumbling, GPS is showing going faster and faster through sectors. Life is goodI had a few... err.... incidents while getting used to the different grip levelGetting more confident on the brakes... Sector times dropping like crazy...And theeeennnn.... Smoke coming from the front left, brake fluid smell and a knocking noise... shit I hope this isnt the wheel hitting the caliper or something. Back to the pits...I take the wheel off, and all is well. What made that noise and smoke then? Oh... Oh fffs.GNNARRRRR! My first experience with semis, over in about an hour because I noobed the braking again. All smugness instantly erased from my face haha.My fastest lap was only 0.2 seconds quicker than road tires, because it was hard to string a whole lap together without having the rear of the car come loose with the grip imbalance.Regardless, I was absolutely fizzing about how well the car ran. The 8000+ rpm rev limit now has just brought the car alive.I called it a day, and headed back down to the tire shop with my tail between my legs. Feeling like an absolute noob for wrecking the tires they fitted about an hour ago."So, ahhh... I wrecked one of the tires, my bad. Do you have anything like a 195 or 185 that I could get home on? Just a normal road tire""Yeah I think we've got some 185s here, same deal as before... $60 fitted""done deal!"While he was taking the semis off, he said "Oh yep, this one is flat spotted pretty bad! Leave this one with me, and take one of these others so you've still got a good pair"Holy crap, could an experience with a tire shop possibly get any better?So with my car amazingly intact, and a decent pair of second hand R888s in the boot.I head off for another 2 days of tootling around the central North Island, as pictured below.Smashed through a few tanks of gas, with the engine running like an absolute dream.Ran 90% of the time with cruise control on, and enjoyed the scenery.I made it back to Auckland in one peice with no major issues. Best trackday experience ever!Big thanks to Tom / Testament for helping me out over the weekend. 42 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted March 25, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted March 25, 2016 Just before leaving taupo I bashed the front of my car into the ground (again) Drove home okay, but figure it's time to sort this out properly. Pulled the sump off, looks pretty bad...AND THEN WHAT THE FUCK IS A SCREW DRIVER DOING IN MY SUMP?! Couldnt believe my eyes when I saw that, must have been there for a long time So perhaps I've fixed an engine rattle as well...I've got a spare oil pan to fit, big thanks to Pe-arce foe this.But I'm hesitant to do so without coming up with a better way of protecting it, I certainly dont want to do the same thing again. I'm thinking some slightly harder springs up front will help. Raise ride height a little and reduce travel a little.Then come up with some sort of bash gaurd. 26 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted March 31, 2016 Author Share Posted March 31, 2016 HOW TO: TRD spec your beams oil pan Back in the day, TRD made a bunch of parts for the beams engine but they're mostly discontinued. Which is no real loss as they all cost zillions so no one bought them. One product that they made though is a TRD oil pan, which was essentially mildly modified standard one. So here's what they did (Thanks to CelicaRA45 for the info)Step 1:Lower the oil pickup deeper in the pan with a spacer. (4mm thick from memory)You need a 2nd spacer of same thickness for the brace on the pickup obviously.(NOTE: Not reccomended mod if you think you're likely to smash your pan into the ground, removed mine ages ago for this reason) Step 2: The front left corner of the sump, for some reason, has a section where under hard braking the oil can flow back out the top of the oil pan:Soooo bash the bejesus out of this, to seal the gap like so:Step 3: The other place where oil can flow up out of the pan, is the dip stick hole. So you want to fit a pipe that extends down into the pan pretty much to the bottom (just need to leave enough gap so that oil can reach its level when the car is stationary) and then extend the pipe upwards as far as it can go without hitting the underside of the alloy part of the sump. Cant remember exact measurements for this but it's pretty self explanatory Step 4: Clean the heck out of everything so there's no oil at all. Then, with some Toyota Seal packing Black run a bead around the perimeter of the pan to fill any small gaps, then give it a smear down into the gap so that it fills up any potential leaks. I mention Toyota Seal Packing Black in particular, because it's Wizard Magic stuff.Expensive - But awesome. If you're gonna use some other gunk then dont bother with this step. It's money well spent for the comfort of knowing that my sump isnt going to leak... ever.That's it! Reassemble it all and enjoy some high G cornering without blowing your shit up. Still need to make a bash gaurd, but I'm at least back in action as soon as I bother buying some oil and topping it back up. 7 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted April 5, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 5, 2016 Booked in for an ANZAC day trackday at Hampton. Cant wait! Between now and then, just giving the car a once over and making sure the brake pads/discs etc are still looking alright.Pads are maybe 2/3rds worn now, but have not had a single iota of brake fade using them. Ferodo DS2200 gets my tick of approval.While I've had everything apart, thought I'd see if these other tire sizes look feasible... Keep in mind that these pictures are shown with the tire resting against the strut, so would have to sit 10+mm further out. starting with 235/50/15Definitely too wide!then next a 225/50/15This might be doable! It would be awesome to run a 225 all round.Might give me a few more laps before tires start overheating.Maybe a few less laps until brakes start getting super hot though...Might need some venting if driving with semislicks. As the discs look like they've seen some epic temperatures which cant be great for bearings etc.Might repack the bearings with grease while it's all apart.Trackdays wouldnt be fun, without procrastinating about putting your car back together until the night before.EDIT: Late request by Snoozin for more graphs per post: 20 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted April 15, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 15, 2016 Sooooooooo while I've had the car apart for other stuff. cobbled together an injector test bench so I can work out deadtimes and flow rates etc etc. Took about 4 hours of running tests at various pulse widths and voltages etc last night to characterize the Altezza injectors @ 60psi.At 60 they are awesome and linear right down to 1.6ms which is lower than what my car idles at. Will test a bit lower today and see where they start becoming a problemHopefully the second set of injectors will take a bit less time, now that I know what the process is.I came up with a spread sheet that helps figure out the dead time, basically you adjust the number up or down until you get a flat line instead of it sloping one way or the other.Deadtime too high: Deadtime too low: Then once I worked out the deadtime for this voltage (13.4v) I could run a simpler test at other voltages, as I already know one of the values.So this time I'm looking to get the flow rate matching at all voltages, once their deadtimes have been excluded. Based on already knowing the value for 13.4vThe Altezza injectors are awesomely linear though.(If injectors were non linear you'd see less of a straight line and more of a curve)It will be interesting to see how well my $120 Aliexpress 1000cc single pintle injectors compare, haha.I should probably start putting my car back together though, trackday is next weekend! 11 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted April 21, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 21, 2016 Car's back together and running better than ever! Surprisingly the $120 Aliexpress 1000cc injectors performed very impressively in testing. Idle is way more stable and the autotune function etc seems to be working great as well. Part throttle seems way punchier. I've been tossing up what to do for tires. T1Rs are just hilariously miserable on the track. But R888s are idiotic to drive on the street. They sound like gillies for your wheels haha. I was looking at other options, found the Federal 595 RSR. Supposed to be only a second or two off the pace of R888s, but more streetable and still prone to overheating. Tried to buy some but were sold out... The guy on the phone mentioned the Yokohama Advan AD08Rs as a good middle ground option for trackday and street that arent too expensive. So I did some digging around on the internet to see what people think. People say that you need to get a few laps to get them up to temp to get the grip. Perfect! It's the control tire for the World Time Attack series in the street class, so cant be too shabby! Some cars are going well under 1 minute at Tsukuba on these. So I had some fitted today, and went out for a test drive tonight to refine the engine tune a bit and see what the tires are like. So far so good, cant really form much of an opinion yet as I'll have barely scrubbed off the casting marks.But really looking forward to having some better consistency with tire temps at Hampton! Tread pattern looks fancy but I'm not gonna try push my luck driving these in the wet as apparently they're not great at clearing standing water away. 17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted April 25, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 25, 2016 This post has: No Graphs No long paragraphs on boring topics JUST DOORT NOISES New PB of 1.21.7 25 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted April 26, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted April 26, 2016 Okay enough of that, back to graphs.I had Threeontree come help me the other night, he drove the car while I tootled with ignition settings. Managed to advance the timing by up to 20 degrees in some areas, on the part of the map for cruising along. We used cruise control to hold the engine at a particular speed so it stayed in the centre of a column on the ignition map.So I had this big stack of data collated from driving at all different speeds, and I have accurate injector info from my test bench thing. So Excel'd together some maths to try see which speed is most economical to drive my car at: (The lower the trend line, the more economical) So it looks as though peak economy is ~73ish kph? And not too bad 10kph either way. Most cars are most economical at about 85kph, but I guess this has 80s box aero features and does ~3400rpm @ 100kph thanks to the diff ratio.It's probably the pumping losses from spinning the engine so high at 100kph that keeps the optimal speed that much lower than normal. Aint changing diff ratios though! Coupe Life! 13 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted May 8, 2016 Author Share Posted May 8, 2016 So I've had a bit of a nerd-on regarding fuel economy etc recently,Was reading about that guy that whale tailed his civic (which looks utterly rediculous)However he now gets2.8l per 100km What the fuck!!I didnt even think that it would be possible to improve by that much. I want to keep this car looking standard, but there's some low hanging fruit in the aero department because the front of a the car, from underneath, is a frigging mess.Gonna have some side sections sealing off radiator entry so it uses the fan less.Then try get a flat tray underneath the front of the radiator area and a short distance behind it too.Might be worth a few KPH at the far end of the straight at Hampton.Found this cool excel sheet, will give this a go before and after and see if there's any difference. Not expecting miracles but I do think there will be at least some quantifiable change for the better by attempting reducing drag a little. If not, as usual, will chuck it in the bin.www.iwilltry.org/b/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/Drag_Coefficient.xlsMade a start on some side panels for radiator, just corflute for starters. Will check with pressure sensor for before/after and see if it makes any difference."When you've got carbon fibre taste, but a real estate sign budget" 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted May 10, 2016 Author Share Posted May 10, 2016 So I finished my real estate sign radiator side panel thingys. Before trying anything else I wanted to get some tests first regarding drag etc. According some coast down tests and the Excel sheet my car has a Coefficient of Drag of 0.39 which is pretty ugly.Sooooo according to this:http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculate%20HP%20For%20Speed.php At 200kph my car needs 105hp just to push through the air. So there is less than half of my power left to accellerate with. If I could reduce my CD to 0.35, this drops to needing 95hp.If I could reduce it to 0.3 (unlikely/impossible) this drops to 83hp.Making my car more slippery would be the same as gaining ~20 horsepower. I find this surprising as I would have thought changing CD would make a greater difference than that. Maybe I should double check my maths haha. It seems easier to just keep it as is, and then just have the car make more power haha.Certainly not worth turning the car into a teardrop shaped abomination when you're only going 200kph. Maybe a different story on the salt flats though! 2 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted May 17, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 17, 2016 Coming back to this overly simplistic model I drew ages ago: As previously mentioned I've got a spare map sensor hooked up for datalogging (well it's not a map sensor anymore, just a pressure sensor) Tonight I thought I'd finally put it to use and see what sort of air pressure I'm getting at various points up the bonnet, up the windscreen, and start of the roof, and on the front bumper area.So, tape the hose to a certain part of the car, go for a run to 110kph on the motorway, log results, move the hose and test again. Results not as expected! Nothing I initially measured, varied by more than the margin of error of the sensor. As in, if it showed 101kpa when stationary it showed 101kpa when going 110kph as well.And yes I did double check that the sensor works haha.The only tests which showed any variation were taping the hose to the glass on the rear of the side mirror. (Showed a pressure drop, as expected)And having the hose in the rear of the wheel well area. (Showed a pressure drop, as not expected! Thought it would be high pressure area here) I saw more of a change in barometric pressure, than actual pressure variations across the front of the car.It may be that a more sensitive sensor is required like a 5kpa manometer or something, but then is it even really worth bothering about trying to change something if the pressure difference is actually so immeasurably low?I suspect that the rear of the car will be the interesting part for pressure drop etc, however probably what would be more relevant and interesting will be doing some wool tuft tests to see where the airflow detaches. Similar to this:I might need a volunteer or two to help out though at some point, to follow the car down the motorway and snap a few pics so I can see what's happening.Anyone out West Auckland interested in participating in some Dave Science? Disclaimer: actual scientific content may vary from advertisement 10 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted May 17, 2016 Author Share Posted May 17, 2016 Ahhh one other thing. I made a table in the ECU that temporarily converts my tacho to a fuel economy meter. It's not as simple as just measuring injector pulsewidth, because you could have the same pulsewidth at a higher speed means better economy. So it uses some calcs based on injector pulsewidth, rpm, and vehicle speed in order to wave the needle around, it's a bit unnerving at first haha. But if the needle shows between 2-3k rpm you're doing good, and if its pinned at 8krpm you need to revise your driving strategy haha.Will be interesting to keep an eye on it on longer trips. I dont think it's useful for quantifying changes to the tune etc in the same way as taking averages from the logs though.I also found that I'm a bit of a noob and had my fan switch-on temperature and hysteresis set to a temperature where my fan would just be on all of the time. ha.So fixed this and now the fan runs only very minimally. 6 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted May 18, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted May 18, 2016 Driving with the economy meter is interesting! Basically you'll be driving along fairly normally at say 70kph, the needle will be on say 7k on the tacho. as you slowly accellerate, the needle will drop and drop, and then when you get to a certain point it just stops and doesnt go down anymore. If you keep accellerating from there, the needle starts going back up. So once you get to that low point, you back off the gas to hold that speed, and the needle will drop down to say 2krpm or 3krpm. Whether you're on a hill, a downwards slope or whatever. Within the space of about 10 seconds you can find the most economical load and rpm combo which is pretty cool. It's amazing how deviating just a few kph either way of that point takes away economy really quickly. I found that my throttle was quite jumpy when trying to fine tune that needle angle, so I have revised my e-throttle curve to be even less sensitive below 70% throttle.I might setup a second throttle map so that if you ever go above 6000rpm, it will start a timer and switch to the "race" throttle map which is linear. Then if you havent gone over 6000rpm again in the space of a minute or something like that, it goes back to the mushy throttle. So congratulations to me, I've just figured out how to make e-throttle as unresponsive and mushy as OEM cars, the thing that everyone hates about it hahaha. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Roman Posted June 13, 2016 Author Share Posted June 13, 2016 Grrrrr more frustrations recently. I bought a new wideband controller (Aim LCU one) and a definitely genuine Bosch 4.9 sensor with it, hoping this would solve my problems with wideband sensors blowing up. Switched over to modelled fuel equation in the ECU, (which is awesome) and after a week or so the sensor shit itself. Blargh!So that's the 4th one, lasting less and less time each time! But I guess the good thing here is, there wasnt anything wrong with my Innovate controller so now I've got two / can sell one / datalog the daily / whatever. This wideband controller can show you the temperature that the sensor reaches, and its not getting too hot, so it was good to confirm that this wasnt the issue. So it looks like the one thing left that could possibly cause it, is having the wideband come on with the ignition key. The reason this is an issue, is that before you have started the engine, in a cold exhaust the sensor gets fully up to temperature (800deg) and then the first crank of the key sends a big woosh of cold air past it, which cracks the ceramic element in the sensor. Even worse if there's any moisture in your exhaust at the time.So the better strategy is to have the sensor only turn on when the fuel pump turns on (so only when engine running) or even more ideally, with a delay of a few seconds after engine starts.(Thanks to guys in the DIYEFI thread for pointing this out to me)I'm usually sitting uploading a new tune or whatever before starting the car, so I have been doing the worst possible thing to the sensor every single time. D'oh. So I bought another sensor (sigh) but wont install it until I've made some wiring changes. I will wire it into a relay that is then triggered by the ECU. So I can set a 5 second delay (or minimum coolant temp or whatever) on engine start before the wideband powers on. In other news I spent a bunch of time (pre 02 sensor blow up) trying to get my idle working a bit nicer. But the problem is that on my main fuel map, I've only got columns for 850rpm, 1000rpm and 1500rpm to adjust. So I decided to chop this low rpm section completely off my fuel map, and have a second fuel map that switches on below 1500rpm that has way more resolution for getting good fuel at idle.Then I've used mixture map feature to build up a table, then smoothed it out a bit and ended up looking like this. The car now idled nice and steady, deviates by say 20rpm up and down. Seems a bit more stable coming off revs too, rather than dropping rpm really low or stalling. While mucking around with this though, coincidentally or otherwise.I found that my car started making knocking sort of noises around 3000rpm. So I thought I'd turn knock detection back on and see whats up. Started building a map for knock levels, but at about 3000rpm, it would only stop knocking on cyl 3 and 4 if I reduced the timing down to 1 or 2 degrees.And it was definitely knocking, I could hear it myself, so it wasnt an issue with falsely reported knock. So I figure something physically wrong must be going on. I pulled the spark plugs out for the first time in forever, and found cyls 3 & 4 had a brown ring around the porcelain area, and all of the plugs looked a little worse for wear. (probably from multiple retunes on this engine, intentionally induced knock for setting up knock sensing, and various other abusive activities) So I ordered a replacement set of plugs, and then thought I'd have a geez at the coilpacks to see if anything's wrong. Usually they get a brown ring about half way up the plastic casing, which means they have been overheating and need to be replaced. But they all looked fine until I took the rubber boot off the spark plug end and peered down the end...Three of them look like this:And one of them looks like this, think I found the problem....I'm surprised that the car ran on 4 cylinders at all, wonder how long it's been like this. One of the coils must have been arcing to the spark plug every time.I'm not sure which cylinder this coilpack came off though, so now I need to check for bits of spring fallen down into the cylinder on all 4. Or maybe it's been like this for ages and I've never noticed!I'm getting a full set of brand new Toyota sourced coilpacks and a set of fresh plugs, hopefully this fixes the knock issue and life is good again (with a non explodey wideband!) 8 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted June 18, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted June 18, 2016 New coilpacks and plugs fitted, awesome.Old coilpacks on the left, new coilpacks on the right: The top of the coilpacks are filled with a cooling fluid (which frigging stinks if you ever cut one open) So the new design has more cooling fluid in the top by the looks, and flatter plug design which is a bit of a pain. However near the bottom of the coilpack the new one is also ribbed for my blocks pleasure, I think this is so if you have an oil leak down into a spark plug well, it holds the oil up instead of falling down around the spark plug. Good idea I guess. So new coilpacks fitted, idle seems nicer and car's running well but the bloody ticking/knocking noise is still there!With some help once more from the DIYEFI thread, found it seems to be happening on the verge of VVTI starting to engage. Then, thinking about it, the VVTI pulley is whats probably been making that rattle at idle thats been driving me nuts for god knows how long! Decided to bit the bullet and buy a brand new pulley, no point in mucking around with second hand stuff that's gonna do the same thing. I got the pulley installed, and then also found that my previous pulley was jamming at a minimum of 12 degrees advance, this new one now goes right down to zero.Which could possibly mean a little extra top end power, awesome. It's been a crazy expensive last few months though, the new tires were exciting but the rest has been on replacements or consumables or fixups, rather than fun stuff.I bought a brass bush for the gearbox shifter as well, I think the plastic one in mine is starting to wear a bit.Hopefully this might help a bit to prevent accidentally shifting out of the gate when trying to get 2nd gear (Going into the void where reverse exists!) Not too long till some Taupo trackdays, hopefully some of this effort pays off and I have some fun and reliable days at the track. 12 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Roman Posted July 3, 2016 Author Popular Post Share Posted July 3, 2016 This sentence requires some amending: Not too long till some Taupo trackdays, hopefully some of this effort pays off and I have some fun and reliable days at the track. my car doesnt blow up. Alright alright, so maybe this doesnt make much sense compared to turbo or supercharger or whatever.And maybe some pessimistic people will say "Carrying both fuel and oxidizer in an old car is an idiotic idea and you're going to blow up"Well guess what? Lots of other things have carried both fuel and oxidizer on board without major issues.The Messerschmidt 163 Komet carried Hydrogen Peroxide as an oxidizer. It featured an impressively low rate of dissolving its pilots (less than 1 in 10) which was better than any other rocket powered aircraft in service at time (none, therefore it was the best)The Challenger spacecraft flew NINE successful missions with both on board, before having a minor fuel/oxidizer interaction issue on the 10th:Also lets stop and consider that the titanic didnt carry an oxidizer on board, and yet it killed way more people than both the Komet Challenger combined...And didnt even do anything cool like shoot down bombers or fly around the planet. 0% success rate!As you can see from the above evidence, Nitrous is not only highly entertaining, but also has only a very limited probability of causing your vehicle to explode.It's far from a certainty! 36 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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