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Roman's beams 3SGE Toyota Carina


Roman

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I've been thinking about trying to make a different exhaust manifold, basically to try and have a longer Straight section on the runners before the first bend. There's heaps of space for it.
Currently 1 runner has the bend immediately after the flange and the other is maybe 100mm or more away from the flange.
Also, my exhaust ports are larger than standard and I had to die grind the hell out of the manifold to be the right size.
But it steps back down to smaller diameter which probably isnt great. So it would be interesting to see what happens going up a pipe size.

For interests sake thought I'd draw up some bends in solidworks and see how close I could get to drawing up an equal length exhaust manifold.

In my mind it's the same process that you'd do on the bench tacking things together but a lot quicker to readjust angles.
Still took ages, would take a zillion times longer IRL!
 

I thought I might end up drawing a model that needed a zillion cuts and welds and bends to work, but it looks as though with the magic of CAD I could probably bang something together from off the shelf mandrel bends, only 3-4 parts per runner to get equal length within a few mm.

ma0ghm3y.tns.jpg


Based on the test model, wtih some accurate cutting and coming up with a way to index the angles between parts from the model. Only 3 parts per runner would be required:
4tv50tgb.5xl.jpg

(excuse the wonky angle blue pipe, solidworks crashed before I saved it and CBF redoing it)

 I reckon it looks feasible enough to spend a bit more time modelling engine bay available space, exact port spacings etc and mock something up.

Anyone tried making a manifold from cad drawings before? Might pull the manifold off and measure some stuff in engine bay next time there's a rainy few days.
 

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  • 4 weeks later...

HOW TO: TRD spec your beams oil pan

 

 

Back in the day, TRD made a bunch of parts for the beams engine but they're mostly discontinued. Which is no real loss as they all cost zillions so no one bought them.

 

One product that they made though is a TRD oil pan, which was essentially mildly modified standard one.

 

So here's what they did (Thanks to CelicaRA45 for the info)

Step 1:
Lower the oil pickup deeper in the pan with a spacer. (4mm thick from memory)
You need a 2nd spacer of same thickness for the brace on the pickup obviously.
(NOTE: Not reccomended mod if you think you're likely to smash your pan into the ground, removed mine ages ago for this reason)

sc255or3.y32.jpg
 

Step 2:

The front left corner of the sump, for some reason, has a section where under hard braking the oil can flow back out the top of the oil pan:

diludqjh.4tm.jpg

Soooo bash the bejesus out of this, to seal the gap like so:

ybyep24m.5tm.jpg


Step 3:

 

The other place where oil can flow up out of the pan, is the dip stick hole. So you want to fit a pipe that extends down into the pan pretty much to the bottom (just need to leave enough gap so that oil can reach its level when the car is stationary) and then extend the pipe upwards as far as it can go without hitting the underside of the alloy part of the sump. Cant remember exact measurements for this but it's pretty self explanatory

f0ivwxl0.jle.jpg

 

Step 4:

Clean the heck out of everything so there's no oil at all. Then, with some Toyota Seal packing Black run a bead around the perimeter of the pan to fill any small gaps, then give it a smear down into the gap so that it fills up any potential leaks.

dbqblhfd.2n1.jpg

 

I mention Toyota Seal Packing Black in particular, because it's Wizard Magic stuff.
Expensive - But awesome. If you're gonna use some other gunk then dont bother with this step.

It's money well spent for the comfort of knowing that my sump isnt going to leak... ever.

That's it! Reassemble it all and enjoy some high G cornering without blowing your shit up.

 

Still need to make a bash gaurd, but I'm at least back in action as soon as I bother buying some oil and topping it back up.

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So I've had a bit of a nerd-on regarding fuel economy etc recently,

Was reading about that guy that whale tailed his civic (which looks utterly rediculous)

However he now gets

2.8l per 100km What the fuck!!

I didnt even think that it would be possible to improve by that much.

 

I want to keep this car looking standard, but there's some low hanging fruit in the aero department because the front of a the car, from underneath, is a frigging mess.

Gonna have some side sections sealing off radiator entry so it uses the fan less.
Then try get a flat tray underneath the front of the radiator area and a short distance behind it too.
Might be worth a few KPH at the far end of the straight at Hampton.

Found this cool excel sheet, will give this a go before and after and see if there's any difference. Not expecting miracles but I do think there will be at least some quantifiable change for the better by attempting reducing drag a little. If not, as usual, will chuck it in the bin.

www.iwilltry.org/b/wp-content/uploads/2010/05/Drag_Coefficient.xls

Made a start on some side panels for radiator, just corflute for starters. Will check with pressure sensor for before/after and see if it makes any difference.

"When you've got carbon fibre taste, but a real estate sign budget"

ad3v2og4.wjt.jpg

02auy4eh.g2e.jpg
 

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So I finished my real estate sign radiator side panel thingys.

Before trying anything else I wanted to get some tests first regarding drag etc.

 

According some coast down tests and the Excel sheet my car has a Coefficient of Drag of 0.39 which is pretty ugly.

Sooooo according to this:

http://www.wallaceracing.com/Calculate%20HP%20For%20Speed.php

 

At 200kph my car needs 105hp just to push through the air. So there is less than half of my power left to accellerate with.

 

If I could reduce my CD to 0.35, this drops to needing 95hp.

If I could reduce it to 0.3 (unlikely/impossible) this drops to 83hp.

Making my car more slippery would be the same as gaining ~20 horsepower.

I find this surprising as I would have thought changing CD would make a greater difference than that. Maybe I should double check my maths haha.

 

It seems easier to just keep it as is, and then just have the car make more power haha.

Certainly not worth turning the car into a teardrop shaped abomination when you're only going 200kph. Maybe a different story on the salt flats though!

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Ahhh one other thing.

 

I made a table in the ECU that temporarily converts my tacho to a fuel economy meter.

 

It's not as simple as just measuring injector pulsewidth, because you could have the same pulsewidth at a higher speed means better economy.

 

So it uses some calcs based on injector pulsewidth, rpm, and vehicle speed in order to wave the needle around, it's a bit unnerving at first haha.

 

But if the needle shows between 2-3k rpm you're doing good, and if its pinned at 8krpm you need to revise your driving strategy haha.

Will be interesting to keep an eye on it on longer trips. I dont think it's useful for quantifying changes to the tune etc in the same way as taking averages from the logs though.

I also found that I'm a bit of a noob and had my fan switch-on temperature and hysteresis set to a temperature where my fan would just be on all of the time. ha.

So fixed this and now the fan runs only very minimally.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Grrrrr more frustrations recently.

 

I bought a new wideband controller (Aim LCU one) and a definitely genuine Bosch 4.9 sensor with it, hoping this would solve my problems with wideband sensors blowing up.

Switched over to modelled fuel equation in the ECU, (which is awesome) and after a week or so the sensor shit itself. Blargh!
So that's the 4th one, lasting less and less time each time! But I guess the good thing here is, there wasnt anything wrong with my Innovate controller so now I've got two / can sell one / datalog the daily / whatever.

 

This wideband controller can show you the temperature that the sensor reaches, and its not getting too hot, so it was good to confirm that this wasnt the issue.

So it looks like the one thing left that could possibly cause it, is having the wideband come on with the ignition key.

The reason this is an issue, is that before you have started the engine, in a cold exhaust the sensor gets fully up to temperature (800deg) and then the first crank of the key sends a big woosh of cold air past it, which cracks  the ceramic element in the sensor. Even worse if there's any moisture in your exhaust at the time.
So the better strategy is to have the sensor only turn on when the fuel pump turns on (so only when engine running) or even more ideally, with a delay of a few seconds after engine starts.
(Thanks to guys in the DIYEFI thread for pointing this out to me)
I'm usually sitting uploading a new tune or whatever before starting the car, so I have been doing the worst possible thing to the sensor every single time. D'oh.

 

So I bought another sensor (sigh) but wont install it until I've made some wiring changes. I will wire it into a relay that is then triggered by the ECU.

So I can set a 5 second delay (or minimum coolant temp or whatever) on engine start before the wideband powers on.

 

In other news I spent a bunch of time (pre 02 sensor blow up) trying to get my idle working a bit nicer. But the problem is that on my main fuel map, I've only got columns for 850rpm, 1000rpm and 1500rpm to adjust.

So I decided to chop this low rpm section completely off my fuel map, and have a second fuel map that switches on below 1500rpm that has way more resolution for getting good fuel at idle.

Then I've used mixture map feature to build up a table, then smoothed it out a bit and ended up looking like this.

 

pldgrqid.bnb.jpg

The car now idled nice and steady, deviates by say 20rpm up and down. Seems a bit more stable coming off revs too, rather than dropping rpm really low or stalling.

 

While mucking around with this though, coincidentally or otherwise.
I found that my car started making knocking sort of noises around 3000rpm. So I thought I'd turn knock detection back on and see whats up.

Started building a map for knock levels, but at about 3000rpm, it would only stop knocking on cyl 3 and 4 if I reduced the timing down to 1 or 2 degrees.
And it was definitely knocking, I could hear it myself, so it wasnt an issue with falsely reported knock.
 

So I figure something physically wrong must be going on. I pulled the spark plugs out for the first time in forever, and found cyls 3 & 4 had a brown ring around the porcelain area, and all of the plugs looked a little worse for wear. (probably from multiple retunes on this engine, intentionally induced knock for setting up knock sensing, and various other abusive activities)

 

So I ordered a replacement set of plugs, and then thought I'd have a geez at the coilpacks to see if anything's wrong. Usually they get a brown ring about half way up the plastic casing, which means they have been overheating and need to be replaced. But they all looked fine until I took the rubber boot off the spark plug end and peered down the end...

Three of them look like this:

0udgqmqt.03a.jpg

And one of them looks like this, think I found the problem....

ajiqo4bm.ysa.jpg


I'm surprised that the car ran on 4 cylinders at all, wonder how long it's been like this. One of the coils must have been arcing to the spark plug every time.
I'm not sure which cylinder this coilpack came off though, so now I need to check for bits of spring fallen down into the cylinder on all 4. Or maybe it's been like this for ages and I've never noticed!
I'm getting a full set of brand new Toyota sourced coilpacks and a set of fresh plugs, hopefully this fixes the knock issue and life is good again (with a non explodey wideband!)
 

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