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Mitsubishi Engine & brake Conversions.


lowlancer

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yeah only wideblock but could make up adapter plates or adapt the bell housing, its only the "bolt" holes effectively that are different.Give the sigma box a go, im just not sure what they can handle, they never really been used in high power builds til now.The ozzy guys love them so yeah.

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not really much more than a vr4, byut the vr4 is better to start with i guess, and more modern.Either or really

if ya wanting get big hp outa the sohc you HAVE to multipointor theres no piont in trying, magna 2.6 intake etc is what ya use for that.

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VR4 is by far the better option if you can get a good box sorted.thats the only real issue

Sure a sigma box will work but how much thrashing it can take is the question, specially considering it will be running 3 times the hp its made for !! lol

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Either go

Starion motor with box for average hp and strength

Or Vr4 motor for Good hp and average strength gbox.

No doubt, the twin cam will look and go a lot better, but more fucking about.

I think you'd be happy with a well modded single cam. EVO 3 td05 16G or T3, MPI, decent front mount, high rise stainless manifold, clean up the ports. Be good for 250hp plus easy. Be quicker time-wise and about the same pricewise I would think

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yea thats what im waying up

i guess at the reduced cost of the starion motor and gbox compared to just the vr4 motor lets say 1g for starion gbox and motor and 2g for just vr4 motor i can throw an extra grand at a larger turbo and mpi for the motor, id really neded to be modding head and cams for 250hp though wouldnt i?and the pistons :?

guna end up spending more on it than a vr4 engine would cost arent i?

whats the best way to go about changing the lancer to hydraulic clutch?

id much rather be blowing up sigma gboxes than blowng up starion engines :shock: , plus the sigma gbox requires so little modding to fit

and allthough its pretty :rolleyes: every one wants a nice looking engine in there engine bay too :lol:

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VR4 is by far the better option if you can get a good box sorted.thats the only real issue

Sure a sigma box will work but how much thrashing it can take is the question, specially considering it will be running 3 times the hp its made for !! lol

havent ahd a peep out of mine and i have been doing some fairly heavy shifts. Roger off mmc reckons your diff will go before a sigma box does. Plus if you stick a geed clutch in that will take most of the strain offf the actual gbox. Eliot, there has been far more fucking around with your motor than on mine and mine will always be faster with equal mods....
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thats the sorta thing i wanted to hear :D

alot of the guys on austarion saying if you treat it well it will last etc

but whats the point in have all that power and nanaering your car around may aswell have left the original motor in there

by meaning diff will go you mean sigma diff aswell?

yeah
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dont know bout using the sigma crossmember.I never knew it set it back and cant confirm that it does.I guess the safest bet is to use the 4g32 one or just modify engine mounts so the engine is forward more.

I recon using a 4g32 crossmember, modify mounts to sit engine forward more by like 20mm, this should mean that standard sigma 5sp n/a box (km132) shifter should line up with the shifter hole in tunnel, will have to modify drive shaft and as long as there is room at the front for the radiator and fan it would be better, give more room between the engine and the firewall for all that crap the vr4 has.

Just my thoughts, always wondered why guys dont do it like that, theres prob a reason why not, im just a noob.

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dont know bout using the sigma crossmember.I never knew it set it back and cant confirm that it does.I guess the safest bet is to use the 4g32 one or just modify engine mounts so the engine is forward more.

I recon using a 4g32 crossmember, modify mounts to sit engine forward more by like 20mm, this should mean that standard sigma 5sp n/a box (km132) shifter should line up with the shifter hole in tunnel, will have to modify drive shaft and as long as there is room at the front for the radiator and fan it would be better, give more room between the engine and the firewall for all that crap the vr4 has.

Just my thoughts, always wondered why guys dont do it like that, theres prob a reason why not, im just a noob.

im using standard crossmember, still had to cut gbox hole a bit. its not a major job... i got enough room at the firewall to fit everything and my radiator and fan just fit
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evo1-3 motors dont have the holes on the block for the rwd mounts do they?

im having trouble finding a vr4 motor :x

also does the front end of a starion fit in to an ex like a sigma front end?

struts, crossmmember etc?can u use the starion pedal box and hydraulic cltuch setup for an ex if you were putting a starion box in it?

looking at buying a complete starion and thrwoing everything in, but only if enough stuff fits and its worth it

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they dont have the holes, but i think they still have the sorta plate bit there for the hole to be made in, im not sure.i know of a few evo engines used for rwd conversions, so cant be to hard.

Best engine to go for is the vr4 evo-0 engine, then normal vr4 or rvr.i think the rvr has a smaller turbo tho, same as gsr or somthing.

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cher

and anyone know bout the starion stuff?

i assume the 4g63 crossmember is the same?

the stuff im really worried about is the struts, have heard from isnowi that running lancer 1600cc crossmember with starion bottom arms and struts gives bad positive camber, if i was to use the starion crossmember would this eliminate this problem?

does the starion turbo manifold clear everything in the lancer?

im quite keen on getting a starion thats up for grabs but if i cant chuck heaps outve it into my lancer then its not worth getting as itl cost more than just getting a motor

but if i can use the struts for the bigger brakes aswell as they fact they are coilovers, hydraulic clutch setup it might be worth the hassle of getting it to me and stripping it

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its a cyclone and a fwd engine

guy selling it says its a 12v i think lowlancers is the 8v?

but would it be the same power etc as a starion?

do the same sort of stuff to get more power, mpi etc?

id still need a decent aftermarket ecu to run it wouldmnt i?

so the only place id sve money would be the inital purchase price of the motor?

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its a cyclone and a fwd engine

guy selling it says its a 12v i think lowlancers is the 8v?

but would it be the same power etc as a starion?

do the same sort of stuff to get more power, mpi etc?

id still need a decent aftermarket ecu to run it wouldmnt i?

so the only place id sve money would be the inital purchase price of the motor?

Nah mine's 12Valve

Power is slightly less than VR4 standard.

Mpi will be a cunt due to 12 inlets, but guys in OZ have done it.

Link or Microtech will run it fine

Pretty cool motor, quite novelty.

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