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About azzurro

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  • Birthday 04/05/77

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  1. heh, that DMS has got around. You need the factory carb linkage from the firewal to carb from a 132 to run it, or fashion one from allthread and off cuts (this has worked on my twin sideys for 5 years now, lol) . IIRC the main difference between solex and DMS is the throttle butterfly direction changes from 'push' to 'pull' needing one or other of the tabs on the linkage flipping to the other side
  2. Looks schmick. Youll need to set up a Hilux vs landy trials course. Old man used to have the Bandag Retreads test trailer behind his truck Case brand letter removal is the count of retreads. Truck casings dont really wear out (apparrently).
  3. cheers man, already bought a big wedge of other 2300 treasure he was selling and had the HG on the ol' watchlist. I presume he tripped over the pile of parts that was i assume originally in the boot of a 2300 sedan he sold last year New waterpumps are still available from europe for cheap (fitted to teh 4 cylinder 1500 version of this engine in polski125 cars and other fiat models of the era). Actually a lot of parts are pretty easy to find if you know what else they were used in - eg brakes are Girling and used in Jags, Maseratis, Astons, Ferrarris and detomaso Panteras. (Searching the jag parts numbers being the trick to finding the bargains!) Oil pumps and filters are used on most 60-70s Fiats from the 2 cyl 500 to the earliy 1400cc twin cams, etc. Just 2300 specific engine parts like pistons, head gaskets, bearings etc are tricky, and very expensive (the 2300 coupes with the same chassis and running gear are 'baby ferrari' money, 50k euros+!) . And body parts are just unobtainium.
  4. new proportioning valve with one new line to the diff flexi (other one is from teh master and thats a hoist job, so nope!) - i slotted the adjustment slot a bit more than factory so it may even have enough rotation to work with the lowered suspension now. You can also see the end of the 'new' (i mean better) hand brake cable from my parts stash featuring intact dust boots and slightly less used new pinion seal in. New Remsa pads and discs, the old discs are ok, but the old pads were very sticky from when i was having caliper leaks ages ago. Id suspect the brake issues were: - sticky pads - master was a bit grogey - maybe old proportioning valve - everything else is nice to do and i may as well since ive got the bits now The blue HEL brake lines i installed a while ago. The calipers dont leak, so Ive theft them well enough alone! Also wanged in some lower rear shackle bushes, these were the only ones that needed replacing, lucky cause i only these ones to use - i got a 10 pack cheap, they fit the 2300 too but it used 4, so 4 still left!. Ended up with quite a pile of old and crusty stuff replaced Nearly ready to go back in, Just need to bleed them now. I have a few other things on the list to do including pondering the following questions: - why does the battery keep going flat? (ignition switch needs rewiring i think) - why do the tyres keep going flat? (time to swap the rims for another set) - why does my Italian car that lives at the beach like to rust? (time to extend the garage)
  5. Now the 2300 is pretty much done, it can move outside. so the 125 can get some long overdue attention. Since the shameful display on drag day (the brakes incident on the motorway) Its been started and moved around a bit but not driven anywhere. I have been collecting bits for a brake refresh tho. Fronts seem fine so concentrating on the rear. Most of the hoses etc from, hard line set from and diff seal, pads, discs, regulator and master from Started with dropping this, oh yeah, the diff pinion seal is leaking too... hard brake lines are definitely grotty and a bit rusty, got a full set to suit a 124 spider cheap from the states - so far so good. bench bleeding the new master with old diff lines worked out very well! I had to replace the hoses with slightly longer ones as the new master has top entry tangs on it instead of side ones like the old one cleaned out the reservoirs and greased the pedal and booster pivots, new master on old booster, new vacuum hose to inlet manifold and one way valve thing. I should probably change out the front hard lines but they are actually fine, as were the rear ones to be fair. Maybe one day...
  6. Do you have carbs already? I have 2 manifolds (one in use, other has dizzy scoop removed, pending dizzyless ignition 'one day'...) They pop up on Tme now and again, around the $200 mark, 125T specific and NZ made NZDM yo! I also have a 124 'waffle' fannymould for IDF downdrafts i would sell but there may be strut clearance issues? (have never fitted it up so not sure)
  7. PO may have hooked it up wrong then? The sucking thing should be getting either filtered air , OR be hooked up to a vacuum diapham (and therefore blocked off unless you have a vac advance dizzy and therefore sucking is adding extra air in that it shouldnt be getting)
  8. Given its location i would guess that is the fuel return? Or maybe a vent for the fuel bowl
  9. ugh, solex. Get a weber owl. I think the sucking inlet is to the base of the air filter (there is a big (crank breather) and small (this) flange on the base of the filter housing) 3 adjustment screws or two? 1 should be idle mix screw, the other should be throttle stop. third one? IDK Step 1 adjust idle mix screw till you get it halfway between the fastest idle just before it drops revs when you screw it in a bit more (leanest fastest idle) and when idle speed drops when you wind it out a bit more (richest fastest idle) Step 2 adjust throttle stop screw for appropriate revs (my feeling is this is the one doing the sucking noise as the vacuum increases/bypasses some restriction or orifice) repeat steps 1 and 2 ad infinitum in ever finer adjustments untill you dial in the leanest point (mix) it will idle at your spec engine speed or untill you reach your bothered threshold. (also step zero, ignition timing - i find these engines like a bit more than factory advance but no more than 36deg all in, and they run way better warm (warm = fan cycled at least twice)
  10. The 130 alloys are 14"x6" and with 205/60 tyres the rears rub on the inside of the outer guard, and are quite low geared compared to the factory 175/80 or 85 series tyres. I do like the look of them tho! So had a set of 14"x4.5" factory steelies blasted by @Mr Vapour and they turned out pretty good. as collected from Burger Fule meet, good ol Mr V rattle can primed to stop flashing i ran a strip disc over the tyre sealing area and then primered them And then top coated. I used the light grey that i did the floor and engine bay with with a bit more roof white in it (not quite enough grey left!) I didnt sand them at all, but it turned out ok and they have had way more attention than they deserve already. I have some 185R14C tyres that ive been saving for this since getting them from @kiwi808 when he moved down sarf that have a thin whitewall on them to install when the paint is dry, as well as trim rings and dog dishes. Presidentiale! Should mean i can drop the front a bit to even out the nose high stance and still steer, as presently the front is wound up as high as it goes.
  11. Since getting back from nats Ive been poking away at the inevitable list of (small) jobs on this. When we got home, this was sitting on the step. I love a bargain, I got this lot for $20 + shipping (which was only another $22!) in typical fashion I could have used a few of these bits (starter pinion, alternator end cap with bushes, diff seals, radiator hoses, tie rod ends, exhaust hanger, brake hoses) a while ago, but ho hum, spares are good. WINDSCREEN LEAK Windscreen has a pretty bad leak. It is worse when its sitting. (meaning its not coming up off the wheels) Bit gutted i didnt check it and poo it up properly before i put the surrounds on as the trim clips are a serious pain to get off and i did not what to crack the screen again. 3/4 of a tube of windcreeen sealer in and around it havnt quite got it drip free, but good enough now on the inside. However, the outside now looks gak KEYS Car also only came with a (replacement) ignition key so the doors and boot (from another car, also no key) couldnt be fully locked (or unlocked!). Door handles were also a bit loose and it all needed a clean up. I did find that my trusty old Club lock fitted into the key way, so removed the locked and rearranged the lock pins till this happened: Yay! Can actually lock the bugger. And best of all FREE! Also tidied and lubed up all the mechanisms and reinstalled the handles including the boot with some sealant behind the gaskets, and adjusted all the doors and they are way better.
  12. Reminds me, head bolts are in the mail. True story!
  13. Nice. I have a spare solex carb you can have if you want it plus loads of random bits and pieces that are probably crapper than the bits you already have on that minter. But if you need any non consumable bits let me know.
  14. lol, yes, near new tyres half worn already. I didnt quite get onto it before we left for nats they were 6deg toe out? each side (were even tho so it drove straight, just was funky in the corners) and the wheel alignment pulled them back to 2deg toe in? (cant recall but the opposite way to what it was) each side so 8deg out each wheel or 16deg total. Im blaming this for lack of placing in Grasskhana. (i coulda been a contender!) Caster (2deg) and Camber (0 to slightly negative) were pretty good. With the rain on the way back it was pretty sketchy driving, so made the call to stop and get er done.
  15. Day 4 & 5 The long Drive Home Passing though the Mrs hometown. Stopped off at the FILs place in the 'Ding for the night on the way back. The Mrs put her name on the next project, its been in the FILs shed for 20 years, runs the engine with 4 on the floor and buckets from the Torana her brother rolled when he was 16 . Jim Currie Reserve just out of Tokoroa (reccomended!) Waikato River south of Huntly