R3spct

Even in 2014 it was hard to find some parts, this car came with no rear interior, had top mount but no surround which is crucial to make top mount work. Factory airbox for a GTIR is like rocking horse poo as they all had pod filters fitted and are bespoke for GTIR. Got the spot light grill on tardme for $150, was another GTIR collector planning on bidding but forgot, he said he would have paid up to 1k for it at the time. Then I sold the car with the grill on it. Last rego and wof was 2014 so no idea what became of it. Didnt get another wof after i sold it.

This was the only full GTIR ive owned, bought for 650, sold for 6800. Had the umbrella too..... Dont think it lasted long after i sold it to some bogan down Whanganui way, according to carjam.

My Datsun has a haltech and running std tacho with inductive loop, i just ran the power wire for the coil, coil no1 in your case, through the inductive loop and it works mint.

When i fitted a p12 primera 6 speed to a earlier car, the best way was to cut the cups off the inner cv's can weld the cups on from the car it was going into (p10). Then you have a large diameter weld, rather than small, so much much stronger. Also looks stock. I got ADL in auckland to do them, cost $600 but was well worth it.

Is there any such thing as correctly jetted carb? Also where do you plug laptop in to a carb? Asking for a friend....

Elite 1500 with NSP.. One of my 1st support tickets was on initial setup trying to find Injector Size. Searched for , fuel, injector, size, nothing, oh, its called FLOW and its under a subtab called Stage1, of course how stupid of me. Was the beginning of the end of my hate of the product. It drives the car, it starts well hot or cold, fuel econ is ok on wideband with long term trim on. I really want to rewire and put head light controls and a GPS speedo input, but CBF pulling the dash out to wire those things in. I started the car with a Nismotronic board in a Nissan sr18de ecu, and it ran great, but wanted something better supported and current. Nismotronic never told you off. Nismotronic logged everything, so when you check a log and want to say check inj duty, or see what was happening when there was a lean spot or missfire, everything was there. Also could plug ecu into laptop with usb and change anything, download logs, upload tunes, all without key on. Haltech you need key on, and the wideband is red hot, so unless you turn key off for 20sec to let the sensor cool before starting it cracks the sensor. Been through 4 sensors in last 2 years and im super careful. Old Innovate in my primera on Nismotronic i had the same sensor for 3 years. Suggested to Haltech some way where key is on and engine not running for period of time that it cools the sensor down, but got the std response, "no one else has that problem", ok you get to sell more sensors your way, ok. ANYWAY, sorry for thread hijack.....

They allow for map sensor to be used as a baro sensor, if you use it as map sensor then you need an external baro sensor. BUT the new firmware insists on using the map sensor for something, and looses its shit if you try use it as a baro sensor, and needs map for something even tho my old tune everything is ref to tps. Tried to sort it but car wouldn't run right no matter what i did so rolled it back to old tune. I get check engine lights all the time for things that cant be referenced or searched, lots of abbreviations that dont link back to anything in the software of help files, so i just dont have a bulb in check engine light on dash anymore. Haltech hardware is fine, generally its a ok product, I've just had a really shit run with trying to do something different, (running ITB's with a poor vac signal for map), and the so called "support' is rubbish. Annoys me when Skid Factory, who get tens of thousands of product free, go on about how fantastic the support is. They have cell phone nos for the top techs in Aus., in NZ the agent here doesn't seem to know much, and I've literally waited weeks for a response. The AFR lean trip is impossible to track on logs, despite many attempts to log different things, the ecu only logs things you tell it to log. I know its a lean spot somewhere, but it doesn't trigger a check engine light, so cant log when the fault happens to see where on the map it happens. The other 2 voltage ref and voltage ration items ive got zero idea what they are, as the help file just lists all the codes with nothing about what they are.

Im running ITBs on a A15 with a shit-tec ecu. Took ages to get the tune to work. Im running tps only as a load source, and using the map sensor as a baro sensor. Haltech did a vid on YouTube a while ago about tps only tuning on a ITB K20 engine, but glossed over a lot of stuff. I submitted a support request if they could add the TPS tune as shown in the vid as a base file, as there are none included in the base maps library, and after a month of tumbleweeds was told they don't have a TPS base map as there isn't enough demand. Yeah ok. Recently they release a new firmware which has supposedly better accel self learn, great, did the update and got like 6 conflicts in my tune setup, requested a support request again and was told my tune is "wrong" and all sorts. FFS. I ended up rolling the tune back and have vowed to just never connect laptop again, because every time i attempt to improve the tune or update it just makes things worse. Right now it runs good so i just leave it alone.

2013 vs 2023. Only got 42,000 km on it so far, but its been around nth island a bit

I might have once kept a car on the road a couple more wofs with thin packaging tape and body match color paint. Wish id kept that car and repaired it properly now, but it has 300k on the body and was just plain worn out

Bloody Ministockers have decimated the b310 stock. Glad you kept one away from them.

More motorsport stuff.

Yeah im running 9psi on the wastegate, so cant drop boost. Ideally with diesel you can run no WG, and just control boost with fuel. I can turn the fuel down and keep the egts lower, but it makes it loose its punch in mid range and coming onto boost. I love the way the turbo deez pump works, its a work of art, even with my limited understanding, but the fuel pin and the way it kinda works like a cam and can be both rotated and, and the response spring can be adjusted is pretty cool. Im running an Innovate EGT gauge, which is set to flash at 630 deg, but to be fair from testing the engine doesnt make much power over 550 to 580 deg C preturbo. Im running a water to air ic under the drivers seat, tried a front mount but there was zero way to get pipes forward and back, i did have some temp sensors but never set them up properly to monitor the efficiency of the ic, with regards to intake air temp, and water temps in and out. Had someone try tell me i was running it too lean a while ago, and adding heat, which is the opposite with a turbo diesel. Turning down fuel with high egt is the best option, leave as much air going through as required to keep the combustion cooler. The engine is very inefficient, its a non cross flow R2 2.2, based off a petrol engine originally and only 10 bolt head, so cant take any serious boost. Ive killed a head gasket by freeboosting to 15psi, it didnt like it at all. The GFB one is fine, but the egt looks like its only a gauge function, and doesnt affect the solenoid control of the boost? Ulitmately, its a poor choice of engine, but its what i got, and its 4wd, which id like to keep, so changing engine would prob mean a new GB, and other issues. Kia makes a 2900crdi engine in a small truck based off the Bongo chassis, this would be a good option if could find one in good enough condition, but would mean loosing 4wd. Its independant front axle tho, so just a matter of removing front diff and alxes from CV's.

Bit ambitious but got down the motorway at 80ph to VTNZ for a wof on both. Also GV weight what>?? Ive given up on the Arduino idea, tried a few things but its either beyond me or not feasible. I did have a high temp programable switch with a EGT sensor pre turbo, with the relay triggering a normal boost solenoid y on the line to the pump, at 630deg it will turn on the solenoid, and bleed off boost, therefore reducing fuel delivery and lowering egt, but its a bit aggressive and also the triggering temp is a bit random. Im surprised no one makes a EGT gauge with this function built in, preferably with a way to say start at 10% duty at 550 deg, and 100% at 630deg or so (Programmable). Maybe there is a way to do with arduino.