jakesae101

when is this ?

How much?

people used to fill toyota ae 92,101,111 mounts full of sikaflex due to them breaking to make them more robust

turbo starlets use the same lsd as the 5 speeds from memory

so been cracking on with a few small jobs . A few weeks ago Blizzo commented on Rhyscar's facebook page showing some 3d printed trumpets so iI contacted the guy they were cheap enough to take a gamble on so I got a set. this was about half way through sanding them smooth as you can see they fit nicely I also modified my air filter housing to have bolts right through to make it much easier to get the element in and out and the housing back together I also made some cable tie ignition lead holders to tidy up the engine bay and cable tied all the loose wiring that was in the engine bay now last week while I was fiddling with some stuff I finally worked out what the snapped off switch by the drivers side door on the dash was it was for the fuel pump I had thought it was strange it had no switch , So I moved that to a better place and put in a switch for the afr meter and a overide switch for the radiator fan just need to make up some labels at work . I also got my horn working that turned to to be the contact for the ring was a bit jammed up and it wasnt maing any contact so that is all working so I can get closer to getting a wof

sooo close to the end now been doing a whole bunch of tidyup stuff thats not noteworthy after a talk with webber specialties he gave me some jetting advice on, when the carb was on blizzos car the jetting was 55 F8 idle F11 emulsion tubes 125 mains 170 air correctors his recommendations had the full setup but 50 F9 idle jets F16 emulsion tubes 150 mains 180 air correctors this was about 190$ worth of changes from nz and well that was just a bit too much for me this week so i got them in from the uk 105$ and was here in under a week I had had a hard starting issue with the new plugs from cold and a stumble when blipping the throttle and i couldn't tune it out, after talking to a friend that is much better at tuning carbs than me he asked my why i was still running my vac advance and that that could cause my issues with the stumble and just set it at 10deg at idle , so I changed my old plugs back today and found I hadn't tightened no4 so that is probably the hard starting issue haha . So today I removed the vac advance and tgb lent me his timing light and it was pretty much bang on 10 deg needed to wind in a bit more fuel as it was popping a bit so that was fine idling at 1100rpm quite fine (it isnt that smooth with the cam under that ) and the throttle response is much better than before . I have a lambda link afr gauge and a copy of a bosch lsm 11 semi wide band sensor to go in that ive had kicking round for years . so here is the result of todays efforts

Shit that would be cool to have

Thanks Nick i picked up Bens one from him tonight

sweet you have PM

Please OS populace in wellington can someone lend me a timing light for a couple of hours tomorrow I can come pick up anywhere in the final throws of setting up the base tuning of the rally car and I need to check and set my timing. post , PM or txt me on

that's not too bad then and yes some of those old cages are super sketchy design wise or some real old one made from scaffold pipe or ally , Jonathan has made some for my car and a friends so i'll let you know how we get on with them mine are exactly the same as yours but for 45s and my mates are 50mm long they were cheap enough to take a punt on as i have the same space constraints in the mazda.

I was going to ask how the new trumpets went but obviously not much chance to test them, How much damage was done to the cage ? glad you guys came out of it ok ive had my share of offs in the co drivers seat and know that feeling of just hanging on because you are just a passenger at that point waiting for it to stop. Keen to see this rise from the ashes so to speak and get going again.

Think a large large bottle (the only size they do ) on my account when i looked was like 600$ but that would be lots of fills, there was a episode on finnagins garage on youtube on filling with a straight hose to a 10lb bottle using a bottle heater on the big bottle and icing the small bottles to get them full

Shit yea thats awesome , whats a bottle cost to fill ?

ala

bugger might just get a dual cyl cyl and tap each line then

internets says yes they are in the early mazda 323s and that would make sense why they are all fed through the prop valve

nope drums all the way on the rear the other complication is id also have to install a residual pressure valve in there somewhere for the dums as it has to be in the prop valve if they are split diagonally

id have to change around every line in the car for that as the factory valve splits the system diagonally i think , So i could remove it and feed the primary in the master to the front brakes then M/cyl secondary >proportioning valve > Hydro > T to rear lines seems a bit more work than i really wanted to do but i spose there may not be much choice in it anyone know where the best place to get the fittings is ?

so in my rally car it has a factory dual line proportioning valve so both lines from the master enter the valve and it splits into the 4 wheel lines there , Now i have wanted to add a hydro handbrake as the factory handbrake setup isnt overly robust but with dual lines after the proportioning valve how do I achieve this i know there are a few options , Not so keen to goto a dual cyl hydraulic handbrake as they are quite bulky and they don't make one that has a long enough handle for where i want to mount it , it will be certed on a MSNZ authority card. The options so far from internets research and thinking 1.T the rear lines togeather and pass them through a standard single master in the hydro and then split them again (i don't know is that legal?) 2. use a tandem master with a reservoir like in a standard car and T into each of the rear lines but id need to find something that has equal primary and secondary chambers in it and modify a standard hydro to fit it 3 use a dual piston 4 port master cylinder from willwood or somewhere and make or modify a hydro setup (they are hella expensive ) so os populace any advice / recommendations ect would be greatly appreciated

Its a homelite c52

I have this beast 1970s vintage 72cc and is rolling a 28 inch bar

stainless steel isnt that conductive, less so than regular steel , not some weird rev limiter in the aftermarket cdi?

so progress has been a bit slow with shitty weather ect but i have got some things done i brought a monit trip meter as it came up cheap got it all mounted up and on. now when i came to calibrate it it was showing no pulses for the terratrip probe in the gearbox i had had an issue once with the old tt2 but i put it down to wiring and re terminated the sensor on the back and it was sweet as. But this time i was getting nada and a new one is just over 90$ so in the words of AVE on youtube ya cant fuck it anymore so i took it apart and found the orange cable had broken where it enters the potting for the sensor i removed the potting (and broke one leg off the sensor and resistor) so i ordered some 1k resistors and a honeywell ss41 hall effect sensor for a total of $2.70 with free shipping this is what i found the cable was all cracked too and looked like it had been soldered by a 5 year old nice new bits and all back together tested it today after taking the axela round the block to mentally mark some distances SUCCESS saved myself 80 odd dollars in the process I also fitted a shaft stop on my linkage as my return spring being on the angle it was on kept sliding the arms on the pivots , fitted a new gearbox mount and a colder range set of plugs that were NOS obviously as i havent seen that packaging in years

id say its a bolt that threads into the shaft bit harder