BlownCorona

what makes a 1999 safer than a 1998 Nothing, thats what. what makes a 1998 safer than a 1997 Nothing, thats what. what makes a 1997 safer than a 1996 Nothing, thats what. what makes a 1996 safer than a 1995 Nothing, thats what. what makes a 1995 safer than a 1994 ~~~~~~~~~~ What makes a 1886 safter than an 1885 no one had invented a car in 1885, thats what. Its not a stupid rule when you consider the basic logic that a line must be draw at some point, and at the time of inception 2000 was a round number that was ~15 years old, so fairly modern (brand new my most of our standards) a rolling point for the 1 year wofs would be dumb because the initial assumption was that the newer 2000+ cars were safer overall and while newer new cars may be even more safe, the original 2000+ cars are just as safe as they originally were. 3 year wofs for new cars on the other hand is a fucking disaster and i have no idea what the upside was. There could be a case for bumping cars to a 6 month inspection due to expected wear/tear/dodgy repairs but perhaps 40 years to align with classic rego and unlikely to affect the everyman, kinda echos Harrys comment above.

are you sure that a pull up resistor is correct for your sensor? it may be wanting a pull down. 5v when hall is OFF 5v when hall is ON

just a cheap parallel port card and the stepper drivers that it came with. the para port card is nothing but patching the specific output wires from the DB24 port to the stepper drivers and the limit switches, z probe and e stop but through opto isolators for safety and with the addition of a couple of controllable relays. it relays on the computer itself to generate steps which so far seems to work fine. a large table such as yours may not be so gravy

im about 90% done with setting up a full linuxcnc controller on a dedicated box. but just a cheap breakout board instead of fancy mesa cards like yours, my cutting speed and small table is forgiving enough to run happy within its limitations it seems. i just need to physically install limit switches so homing works and setup auto z probe and then actually learn how to operate the thing properly.

yeah thats a pretty solid idea, with a known offset to the real tool it would be simple enough and remain accurate for any markouts or things in conjunction with actual cutting

I want to do that but with an Er11 chuck. Maybe the inside of a gel pen??

that could end up being an utter nightmare. the wording 'exactly the same as original' depending on tolerances could mean you design several after completing the analysis, presumably youd also need to FEA the original part too to gain the benchmark. unless you happen to be an engineer that would be a non starter, i don't disagree with it at all though, i see daily how how much work those crash/crumple zones do and thats work that's not being done by your body.

zetec +t bedford

check with your insurance company if they can get a post incident valuation. ive had that in the past when i had an accidentally under insured car. i didnt even have to pay for it, though i also wasn't at fault.

i had the same problem on my car with the front disk brakes locking on. id put a master cylinder in that had residual valves on both circuits. i removed them and it made it better but the other problem was the pushrod that circlips into the master was too long inside and even full released was actually holding a bit of pressure. more of a side effect of using a Datsun master on a toyota but you may have a similar issue to check for.

dreamy, but i looked them up and found one for sale for over 5k usd?? i think i best stick to the $30 barn finds. Top of my list at at the moment is an enicar because i love the logo and i think the story behind their name is cool. their surname being Racine but another member of the family already used that for their watch brand so they just reversed it.

love the gentle evidence of age on that dial. a watch of this style is something ive always got an eye peeled for. id better fix up the old seiko sportsmatic first

the fuel pump might want a rewire of some sort or just a prime button fitted. its wired to only run when the engine is running which is good but if left to sit the fuel can evaporate in the carby and cause the hard starting. a priming push button would let you blast some fuel into the float bowl before starting. im sure there's a clever automatic solution available too if so inclined.

i think there was trepidation over the battery situation, too big and no real clamp means if it slid forward it would arc on the hood.

Great way to spend an afternoon.