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Adoom

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Everything posted by Adoom

  1. A clutch line. Bent by hand so not robot straight. I made it a little longer than required just in case I need to redo the flares. Hopefully having it go higher than the reservoir do not cause issues bleeding. The reservoir is just on a hose and bracket, so I could make it higher if I needed to. And the hose bracket I made. With the hose like this it keeps out of the way of the wheel and it doesn't get tight from lock to lock. The hardline originally went under the chassis rail, but it will be way too close to the exhaust, I'll run it through the inner wing.
  2. Thanks! Yours look way more refined than my blocks. But they look like they will be too big for me to use. I can make more blocky ones if needed on my manual mill. I might even think about rounding the corners or using the DRO for the spacing instead of "looks about right"...
  3. Could not find anything for three lines that was available... Left front caliper, clutch, line to rear. So... yeh? Or nah? They are a loose fit. 5mm drill for 3/16th pipe(4.6mm?)
  4. Been working on the clutch plumbing. And welded in the lower steering column mount. And made the reliefs in the chassis rail for exhaust and steering shaft. I need to find/make some bracket type thing to hold three 3/16th brake pipes that need to run across the top of the firewall. As close together as possible...
  5. I too can hook you up with a round thing with a hole in it.
  6. Scooped the engine back out the hole. Then put the gearbox back in so I can do the clutch and brake lines. I'll also be redoing the engine mounts as cert man wanted them thicker. And I can weld in the relocated steering column lower mount. I'll also be clearancing the chassis rails a bit more for the passenger side exhaust cause I put it in the wrong place the first time. And some clearance for the steering intermediate shaft. Epotec goes a bit toasted marshmallow if you use a MAP gas torch to soften underseal for scraping it off...
  7. Can you draw a diagram showing how the K11 surge tank pump box thing works? I need to make a custom tank for my Triumph, to fit between the strut towers it has now. I'll need to figure out some kind of arrangement to prevent surge. I was thinking of putting in curved partitions so the fuel gets trapped in the 'dam' rather than going all the way to the end of the tank. I don't really have the space to make a well in the bottom.
  8. There is a bolt together structure forward of the chassis rails to support the 'nose' of the body and provide mounting points for the bumper. It had some damage from a front end impact. I dunno if that predates @dmulally 's ownership. Some of the structure was bent and rusty. The loom was also earthed on part of it, but that part didn't seem to be bolted to anything and just floating. I decided to take it out. WELL... I guess some rats were using this as a dining room for a while... Some of the fibreglass was also damaged and sorry if it was you Damo, but OMG it was not patched together very well and is failing. Who ever laid the glass mat probably also scrunches toilet paper rather than folding. There's delamination and big flappy bits of mat sticking up all over the show. I assume it was done by feel, upside down, because of poor access. I think I'll cut/grind/sand it out and have a go myself.
  9. I had planned to have to weld in the front portion of the yellow guard because I deemed the panel damage beyond my skill to repair. The step thing on the corner had been totally flattened by someone else's previous attempt. I had a go at it myself maybe a year or so ago. But then the other day, I thought I'd have one more go, if I fucked it up I could still weld in the other panel. So I just hit it much harder... I think it's acceptable now, I reshaped the step and didn't fuck up the two... ridge line things. Should only need minimal filler. I also trimmed the doner front panels so I could trial fit them. This car had run into something and pushed in the front panels, folding over the lower front seam. I was unable to get the panels the budge with a slide hammer, so I decided I'd use the front panels from the yellow one, which were surprisingly rust free, unlike the rest of the yellow car. Front panels look like there will be no issues fitting them. I'm not ready to weld the panel back in, I still need to prep behind it for epoxy.
  10. I've got a 3-piece wheel that's got a tiny leak where the halves join. If I use the soapy water on it, it slowly makes foam. The bolts are real tight, I suspect they have never been removed. So I guess the bead of sealant around the join has a hole somewhere. The plan is to clean it real good and see if I can find the hole using compressed air from the outside... But I guess I'm just going to scrape most of the sealant out and run a new bead. But what sealant do I use? Is it the same stuff as roof/gutter sealant, or the stuff for the shower????
  11. Did you use any stain remover, or just normal washing machine stuff? I've used SARD and it does a pretty good job getting a bunch of the oil out of my overalls. Just got to pick all the nuts, bolts and swarf out of the machine afterwards.
  12. Albert the NDT man in Wingate has tested the welded struts for cracks. Took 10 minutes. He has an electromagnet and a solvent containing iron particles dyed with a flourescent dye so they glow in a UV light. He puts the magnet across the weld and sprays it with the fluid. The magnetic field aligns the iron particles which you can see under a UV lamp because of the dye. Any cracks will cause misalignment because the field goes around them. So I've got a certificate that says it's passed. YAY!
  13. The Scimitar has swapped places with the Starlet into the garage because I wanted to roll around underneath and gravel floor makes that suck. The chassis looks good, couldn't find anything but minor surface rust. YAY! The car is an auto but a manual pedal box came with it. It was gross, so I stripped off the hideous green paint and rust in the sand blaster. Also tried one of the smaller nozzles on the gun. 300% more effective! Wish I'd thought of it ages ago. Paint it black. Made a template from the pedal box for the clutch master cylinder hole. The auto/manual pedal box is basically identical, but on the auto, one of the side plates is not there. The auto one does have the clutch hole too, there's just no studs. Then drilled the extra hole. The fibreglass is about 10mm thick here! I'll epoxy paint the whole area here to amalgamate any worn... fraying fibreglass. I had to remove the remote brake servo to get the drill in. I'm going to assume the remote servo wasn't doing much because the diaphragm part was half full of brake fluid. I sand blasted all the oxidation off the aluminium anyway. AFAIK, the early scimitar used the same size master cylinders for the brake and clutch. So I can probably use the old brake master for the clutch master, assuming it's rebuildable and find an appropriately sized dual circuit brake master(YES, it was SINGLE CIRCUIT BRAKES!) to go in it's place. Possibly using the remote servo on the front circuit(if it can be rebuilt that is).
  14. Actually, I take that back, the engine front cover doesn't look right.
  15. I sent in my design approval forms for the LVVTA Technical Advisory Committee in late Dec. Their next meeting wasn't until Jan. Late Jan. At the end of Jan it was posted back to me and the design was approved. So THE NEXT DAY I went to may certifier's favourite welderm Graeme Kidd in Upper Hutt. A couple of weeks later, he'd done it. AS SOON AS I got in the gate at home. I put them in the lathe and sanded off the burnt sticker and powdercoat. They still need to get NDT tested in Wingate. Graeme says it's a crack test. But I could not wait to try fit them. I had already modified the top plates and the strut towers the previous week. Using a straight edge and the angle thingy in my phone, it's got 0 deg camber at ride height with plenty of adjustment in both directions. They ended up 10mm shorter when installed than I'd calculated. So that's a bonus, the adjustment won't be totally bottomed out at ride height. On it's own wheels and suspension! I can push it around! It's 10mm lower at the front here than the back. I may raise it up that 10mm so there's a bit more travel. The springs are 6kg I think. I was expecting them to be WAY too hard, but If I bounce on the guard it doesn't feel massively stiff. The engine needs to come back out now so I can redo the engine mounts on the chassis in thicker steel like the cert man said. And to weld in the lower steering column mount. I should paint the exhaust manifold while it's out, it's getting surface rust on it. And one of the front split rims has a leak, so the tyre needs to come off to redo the sealant.
  16. I believe that may the the same engine series as mine? Any chance of photos of the alternator mounting?
  17. So there's a big oval hole and a small hole covered up? Over that is a red pair of underpants with a large round hole for a circular metal vent that looks like a radiation symbol? Covering over all that, sealing the area below the top vents, is a larger purple pair of underpants with a big hole that the access plate(which was in the boot) goes over?
  18. I was meaning to ask if you'd actually got the ecotec running as EFI and what you'd done for the fuel. I plan on pulling out the fuel tank eventually to have a clean and inspection under there. Yeh, there's not much left of the heater box thingy. I want to do something there to make it look less like there's a big bit missing. I think I might actually have the room to reinstate it, if I can figure out what it's meant to be like. I suspect there's supposed to be two kinda chambers or something? And a kind of rotating circular vent that's gone now? I've not had much luck finding any pictures or photos of the area that aren't obscured by an engine.
  19. It's a separate chassis with a fibreglass body. The chassis is pretty substantial. The diff is a Salisbury which I understand is.... big? Like a Jaaaaaaaag? I dunno, maybe okay. The brakes are a question mark. They are 10.5", but solid. The calipers are weird, two small pistons inboard and one large outboard. Maybe I can get away with better larger calipers and good pads. The front suspension is mostly Triumph TR6 so I guess brake upgrades that go on a TR6 will work.
  20. This is the early poverty spec LE0 that only has VVT on the intake.. The fancy 195kw one also has VVT on the exhaust cam. But hopefully with a better flowing headers, exhaust and intake I'll get more than factory 175kw. I'll have to make headers they need to route over the chassis rails not between them.
  21. @dmulally twisted my arm... not very hard. But this is mine now. I had to build a lean-to for it to live in because my garage is full. Needs and engine and gearbox. I figured a 175kw Holden 3.6 Alloytec with a 6spd manual should be the business. Damo had a V6 Ecotec in it previously so I assumed there was a fairly good chance it will fit. These engines have issues with the breathers blocking up if you don't change the oil when you are supposed to. The breather is hilariously tiny and so are passages in the baffles in the cam cover, so it's REAL EASY for it to block up. Then the heads start filling with gunge that causes issues with oiling and timing chain wear. The engine I got has this issue so it may be stuffed... but it was cheap. soooo. I got a gearbox from an importer in Auckland as well as a used aftermarket Exedy one piece flywheel and clutch(OEM is a dual mass flywheel). I'll have to run an aftermarket ECU. I looked into using the factory ECU but as far as I can tell, you cannot easily get it to work without also having the matching body ECU. A brake light lens is broken but they are available from UK. The "SCIMITAR" badge letters and the emblems are missing. Damo thought he had the letters, so maybe they will turn up. If not, they are also available from UK. The door is apart because I was trying to get the electric windows to work. ELECTRIC WINDOWS!!! Turns out it was a bad earth under the bonnet. Being a fibreglass body, everything had it's own earth wire and they all run back to the same spot under the bonnet. I also fixed the horns, just chucked them in the ultrasonic cleaner and they started working again. NEWS FLASH, the engine didn't fit. But I did some sump surgery and now it does. Only a oil level sensor is in the front portion, so no need to move the pick up pipe. I'll make up the missing capacity in the rear section. There is a big bracket for the alternator and some coolant pipes on the right side that I'll need to relocate to center the engine. The alternator may need mount backwards out the front of the engine. Otherwise, it seems to fit without issue. Oh and FUCK ME, the front pulley is on TIGHT! You have to pull from the center hub because the outer is rubber mounted. My big puller would not fit so I got a smaller 100mm one. It was not happy. I don't expect it to be able to remove that pulley more than 3 or 4 times before the threads are destroyed. I left it off because I'll need to inspect the timing chain at some point.
  22. LOL! I just got a tf035 from a 1500 Mivec Colt at pickapart yesterday for my 1300 nissan engine mini thing.
  23. Oh and alternator will be high mounted behind the oil filler cap, that seems to be a std solution in other K11 minis.
  24. The engine is pretty much in the only place it fits. With more trimming around the back of the subframe I might get another 10mm before the gearbox meets the steering rack. I'm going to step the top/front corner of the inner wing into the guard to get a little more clearance off the corner of the head. I threw some "stunt parts" in the hole to see if there is any chance this is going to work. Mounting the turbo at the front will have almost all of it in front of the grill.... But if I put it over the gearbox... There might be enough room to run the manifold under the engine, then up the back to the turbo then back down for the dump pipe. Loads of room if I top mount the IC.... interwarmer styles. Gonna need a powerful fan and vents... Only done the lower control arm mounts so far. Still got to make a bridge under the top arm mount. I trimmed the inner guards and hammered some new flanges to put some stiffness back in them. Turned out quite good! There will be a CV and driveshaft here to try get an up and down pipe around.
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